March 14, 2008

Trouble Coming Up with Your Color Formula?

We have a wonderful Intimate Group on a platform called Group Spaces, that we would like to invite you to come visit and join if it is what you need. It's the beginning of a New year..... make a pact with yourself to revitalize your hair. 
YOU have the brains and with a little me help from me you will have the knowledge to learn how to achieve it along with taking up a new hobby : Hair Coloring and becoming a Crib Colorist.

They turned "cooking" into the world's biggest hobby...... I remember years ago "cooking" was something that was 'labored over' ! Hair Coloring (scientifically) is similar to cooking. So I want to turn everyone I can into a Crib Colorist - when people do go through the group they are so elated and 'on top of the moon' with what they have accomplished I want to share that experience with all of you in your attempts to have beautiful hair. .

We have a small fee for the first month ( a little more than a $1.00/day) then if you wish to remain, its only $10.00 month. Or you can quit after the first month. Our Crib Colorist  Group makes it very easy to get started so you don't have to worry there.

Our manager, April, will send you the Killer 14 questions you must answer amd get you set up, and we need a couple photos of your hair (sides,front,back ) No one wants a Blind Colorist.....the photos just really help me, help YOU !

 Please hop over to our Group Spaces Group
Join our Group which works in conjunction with this Blog. The idea is to read through all the posts here on Killerstrands, then with questions, comments, or simply conversation bring it over to the Group...where we have access to photo uploads and photos of your hair - so I can help you more accurately,

I love this particular Group ( its my 3rd one) - its easy to maneuver, easy to load up your photo's, etc... So m,y little pet project of turning American women in to Crib Colorists Begins as of January 1, 2015.

If you would like to join immediately just  to get you there.

13 comments on "Trouble Coming Up with Your Color Formula?"
  1. Hiya,

    I must say i love your blog and i read it religiously...however, i hope this does not sound too straight forward now that i have learnt how to use good hair products and proffesional hair main issue still remains in my head....HAIR COLOR's the number one issue i seem to have....i mean iknow it sounds straight forward in a sense that it's easy just to buy a color for instance 9A or somehting ang get the color you want but ...thats not the case. ... i was hoping if i can make a post "request" ...can you write a post solely about hair color formulations?...

    The main problem im having trouble with is getting that beautiful lighest ash blonde hair color..

    can you recommend a good formula in recieving that.

    The hair i want to lighten is light brown and now is pre-lightened to a pale yellow using bleach...

    i tried many time to formulate but the hair color ends up wrong...

    the hair color im looking for is along the lines of: (but not that light..its a bit too white but still along that line)

    What do you recommend in formuation...please let me know...formulation is my main interest in hair coloring thanx



  2. ... also again if the hair is prelightened again to pale yellow what would be the best formula to achienve this color:

  3. how can you sell professional products to the public?

  4. Anonymous,
    Why can't I? I am still wondering why you can't? Please explain and clarify, I would love to know ...
    I never had interest in it before, but now that I do I am baffled as to why I can't - I truly am....

    Thanks, KC

  5. Anonymous,
    I went to Sallys a worldwide Beauty supply (i'm sure you've heard of it)sells to the public...right? They carry a line of new hair color by CLAIROL called Clairol Professional Premium Color- - which replaced their old line - which everyday women have been using for 30-40 years. I have only educated myself on this in the past couple months - never knew this before, as it didn't affect me.
    So, when you pick up a tube of this new Clairol color...right on the box in big capital letters it says: FOR PROFESSIONAL USE ONLY.

    You know what it says on the Framesi tube the Wella tube, the Renbow tube and every other tube I have in my Lab?

    I picked up 2 random tubes to look at to quote correctly here, and on the box that held the Clairol color in the ingredient list AMMONIA was very near the top, now if you know how they are required to list their ingredients : they are required to list them in the order of strength within the formulation enclosed. Now in the Wella Color Perfect Box there wasn't any AMMONIA at all.
    "ammonia" is the ingredient that needs (if any) more care...and that is only because of the 'aroma' if you ask me.
    It does pack a punch - to take a whiff of.
    But what any good decent colorist knows? The more that scent... usually the better the lift: which means the happier the client.
    Never a bad thing.

    so if both boxes say the exact same thing. Why can one be sold to the public and the other cannot?
    I do not get it.
    We are not talking drugs here, we are talking hair color.
    We are talking hair color that is equally sold in the largest beauty supply in the world to every person on the planet...which is just fine...
    But I am interested in who the almighty God is that made these other rules. Who says that one box can be sold to the public and the other cannot??????

    If its the chemical content, which is all I can really see would be the reason...these 2 boxes I have sitting next to me are a very bad example.
    The one they sell to the public (which is a RED by the way - Red's don't usually need ammonia)
    sits here with Ammonia as its 6th ingredient -- that's pretty high.
    While the other has no ammonia in it at all.

    Therefore I just don't get it

    So yes, I am confused.
    help me understand PLEASE

  6. Veronica,
    If you are a reader of this blog why didn't you use the LEVEL system to explain your predicament....
    I have an ongoing slide show at the bottom of this post to try to make it easy for everyone.Its so very very hard without the advantages of sight and touch.
    Its very difficult for me to help people when I don't know what we are talking about...part of the problem and why I have now figured out no one has taken this on until because without the advantage of SIGHT and TOUCH one is very limited as to the advice they can give.
    I have referred to myself as the ONLINE BLIND COLOURIST, in jest, because that is what I am without you the public taking the time to describe your hair in Levels or pictures or something so we know what we are talking about.
    Yes, I see what color you want to be, but as I have said so many of the most important factors in ANY hair color formulation is what color hair you START WITH!
    What Level & what tone is your virgin hair? If its as light as I think it might be...I am wondering why you bleached it?
    If your goal is that Ash blond from right below here..
    Well - you know what - lets forget this until you get me the LEVELS I need to be able to talk about this intelligently.

    If that's where you have it now though it doesn't really matter why you used bleach, i guess. What you want to do now is "tone" it to reach that Ash Level I suppose.
    I would say you should get yourself a strong toner. I don't know where you get your products from? You can order one from me or you can go to your local Sally's and purchase Wella color Charm in either a LEVEL 9A or 8A , you will need to look at the color charts to decide between the two...there are 2 ways to go about it.
    #1) Use the Demi Permanent Line - but I am not sure if they make the proper color...check that out..
    #2) For a super toner you can purchase both the TUBE of color and the Bottle of color in the 9A I also believe they have a color called a "drabber" which refers to a bottle of that and read what it says - but I would add a 1/4 of the bottle. Be sure to use 10VOLUME -15Volume or absolutely no higher than 20 VOLUME with the toner....
    20 Volume lifts 1 level "most" of the time ( nope not all) there just are no Definites in hair color - there are way too many variables.

    let me know how that helps and what else you need.

  7. Hiya,

    Here's the levels:

    Level was : 5/6
    I bleached it to a pale yellow 10/11

    I would like to know forumlas for for


    which i think is 8/9

    and this:

    which is 11 i think....

    i usually use redken shades eq as a toner (however i do understand ur not familiar with it...):

    My thought for the
    formula for the 11A was:

    1 oz of 09N CAFE AU LAIT (Very Light Natural Ash Blonde)
    1/2 oz of 08GN IVY (Light Cool Blonde)
    1/2 oz of Crystal Clear (000) (to dilute the strenth of color)
    2 oz of Processing Solution not sure about this.....i was just wondering if u can help and maybe post a post about formulations (for all color or anything)...?



  8. Can a toner be a permanent hair colour like Wella's Color Perfect or does it have to be demi? What are the reasons for this?

    Also, how long does the Color Touch toners usually last?

  9. Veronica,'
    OK I have studied the Redken Shades charts... I guess I will buy some to try, just to compare, that is always a good thing...I just don't think a "bottle" of color compares to a "tube" ...but that is a whole post in and of itself!
    Both those photos of what you want your hair to look like, is that girls natural color with some very light/natural highlights. It is not a manufactured color. You will not be able to reach it the way you are going about it, but I will give you the best advice I can.
    Why didn't you ask questions BEFORE you started?
    Doesn't matter now.
    I think you are headed for something too mild, but again I dont know the strength of this particular color, so I am by no means an expert. I know my brands like my own children...these are a guesstimate.
    I promise to test them this week tho.
    My guess:
    09B Sterling
    9V Platinum Ice
    09 Cafe au Lait
    1/3 of each, I have never ever needed to use clear...unless these are super powerful colors that can out-do anything I have ever used, then I wouldn't go there.
    There is no solid book of hair color formulation where you can just look up:
    Toner color for lightened hair by bleach to level 10/11 to reach Color 8 Ash blond.
    It just doesn't exist I am sorry to say.
    What DOES exist which I have already gone into many different ways is the COLOR WHEEL THEORY,
    and the understanding of that.Which is why I taught it.

    There is no big giant chart. There is 'theory' which is what I have taught. Then you are supposed to take that "theory" and apply it to your situation.

    I will try another approach, but you have no idea how lucky you all are...I have thought many times about making this a membership site, so that you the people would appreciate what you are being taught. Giving information away free makes people not appreciate it near as much as if they have to pay for it.

    I use to teach this theory in hair school, when I would try to teach the kids to charge lots of money for their hair color work. People respect something they pay more for...that's just capitalism.

    But anyway . . . I do not mean to be harsh, I just am trying to cut to the chase... as you keep insinuating I have not taught this theory and I have. In a number of ways.

    Now when you do this, please do a test strip. take a strip of hair underneath - make up a small portion of the mix and apply to check how it looks so you are not applying to the whole head and it is wrong. There is no way to know unless you have a colorist that has done this on your texture of hair (that is a post I have not gone into which makes a huge difference in hair color)... what texture of hair do you have?
    The reason you have chosen that head of hair to want to emulate? Half of it is her texture.
    I have a number of clients with that texture hair and they always get bombarded by people asking who and where they get their hair done..
    Its the texture, and you can't buy it...
    nor can you color it...
    its a "born with it" thing.

    the reason I chose the colors I did for your toner?
    You want to cancel any yellow's so you need a BLUE base to do that:
    the 09B Sterling
    plus a violet Base also is the ticket to get rid of yellows
    which is why the 9V Platinum Ice
    and then the 3rd one
    only because YOU suggested it, I probably wouldn't do it...
    I always think you need all the opposing colors you can get they never work as strong as you wish they did...
    unless this redken is some fantastic wonder color....
    the thing is........
    Wella's COLOR TOUCH wins all the awards from professionals its always being written about and talked about by every top hair colorist in existence, so I just assumed we are all on the same page...
    when you are tops in the field you want to use the very best color you can, you don't give a crap what brand it just want it to work..
    so there you go...

    good luck

    killer chemist

  10. Hello. This post is likeable, and your blog is very interesting, congratulations :-). I will add in my blogroll =). If possible gives a last there on my blog, it is about the Smartphone, I hope you enjoy. The address is A hug.

  11. Can someone clue me into what this Smartphone post means? Help? thanks
    Killer chemist

  12. Ally,
    Yes a toner can be a permanent color, that is determined by the volume of the developer + the Level of the color.
    You can take almost any permanent color and make it a using a Low volume Developer. Both Color perfect and Koleston Perfect tout their own Toners...
    Color perfect has these 5 toners that are super powerful, I love them. they have a BEIGE BLONDE that would knock your socks off. I will mix it with a 1/4 inch of boyzenberry and end up with that scrumptuous Rose Beige, that is impossible to must be made.

  13. Heya,

    Thank you very much for replying i loved ur message. Yes, ill go back anre -reand the color wheel theory which as u said is probably something i missed or just didnt apply in practice ....

    Also, is the formula you gave me which picture is it for is it this one:

    or is it this one (box cover)

    cause the forumla that i guessed was for the boxed im assuming the one you gave is for the hellacious hair one (THE BLOG PICTURE)....

    The main reason im useig redken is cause of availibilty .....and cause i already bought them before knowing about color hopefully i loooking forward to using that in the future..

    Please do tell me how shades eq compares to color touch when u test out ...that wud be interesting.

    BTW: i think i smart phone is like a pda phone meaning it had lots of function ...such as blackberry....i think ..LOL

    Thanx Again


    P.S since this comment secion is a few posts behind ill post it both here and on the recent post just due to easier manegment..hope u dont mind.


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