January 29, 2008

Your Hair is Dyeing For You To Become A Crib Colorist

Crib colorist? Home Hair Color can be one of the most satisfying and fulfilling projects you ever take on. There are many of you teetering on that fence. Ever baked a cake from scratch? You know... put every single ingredient in the bowl - - one by one - - mixing after each addition -- baked it and WOW it came out perfectly. The difference in the texture, the smell...dear Lordie the "taste"-- you had no idea the difference would be this remarkeable - and you created it.
Imagine that sensation : magnified 100 times - that's how you will feel after that first time you color your hair . . the CC Crib Colorist method - the proper way.
Its funny I am not finding most of you looking to do this because of the cost . . . I would say 7 out of 10 of you are taking this on because you cannot find a competent Hair Stylist.
Therefore this is being written for all of you for one reason or another want to color your hair at home. In your Crib. I’m going to try my damnedest to skip the bullshit & cut to the chase in this endeavor. Killerstrands #1 goal is and always will be the 'health of your hair' try to remember that is always the basis of my advice and teachings. That is the foundation of Sassoon Theory and Killerstrands Theory, a good one I think - how about you?
The reason for the CRIB COLORIST Program?
So many of you are having your hair destroyed, damaged, and turned ungodly shades of orange, yellow and green all because of boxed Hair Color Kits. You know the ones, from the grocery store, Target, Walmart. Where everything you could possibly need for drop dead gorgeous hair that Heather Locklear has, is magically in this one little tiny box and is sold at a discount store for $8.00. Yes, that is right where dear Heather runs to when she wants her hair colored. She sends her assistant to Walmart for a 'hair color boxed kit' Yeah, right.

In the level of hair coloring I was associated with (Malibu, TV/film, celeb, Hollywood) I was appalled that anyone would even think of using those boxed kits – I mean -- why can’t everyone spend $100. – $200.-$300.00 on their hair monthly? Well, as hard as that is to admit now, is exactly how I thought, and now am asking the world to except my apologies and regrets that I was like that. I can only learn from my mistakes, apologize, improve and try to get back to being a compassionate person. Hopefully with this effort I hope to make-up for that period in my life where I was not seeing clearly. In my previous environments I was not aware of the amount of people that must color their hair at home, for one reason or another. I now, fully understand and want to turn my thoughts, efforts and education to that segment of the Hair Universe. I am pretty much over-trained for it, but that makes it even better. I want to give all of the people that will listen the benefit of all my glorious knowledge. I have become ill, and this is about all I can handle to do - it will be good for me and excellent for you.

My beginnings and education:
There may be many different theories on hair color, I don’t know…I was taught by the best so I have never needed to look anywhere else. I attended Vidal Sassoon Academy for 1 full year, then stayed on to assist Lucie Doughty (my mentor) for the following year to hone my skills as a colorist, which was worth every single minute! She was kind enough to share many tricks and secrets many wouldn't do. England is the so-called “home” of hair color & hair for that matter…with Vidal Sassoon’s head colorist Annie Humphrey's being given the name the “Mother of All Hair Color” of the last 25 years that I know of. She has always set the “collections”…developed the “trends”…made up new and innovative coloring techniques that we as “pupils” (wink) would pick up -copy and spread throughout this country – she was a firecracker and damn what a talent. Everything I know and practice was passed down from her and I have worked directly under her on occasion.

So many of the techniques being done today, Annie was doing 10-15-20 years ago, now retired, she truly is and was the Grand Dame of all hair color I'm sure everyone would back me on that statement. By the way, she is the one that not only introduced me to using the LEVITATION BLEACH on the bleach & Tone process. She had a model to do one day and threw a fit until someone went and found her some Levitation. We were at the Sassoon Academy at the time and had shelves of other products, she just would not do the models hair until we had this particular Levitation Oil Bleach - at that point I hadn't heard of it - we used another brand in the academy. ( I had to drive all over Hell 6 stores it ended up being, finally tracked it down, so I was the hero for a day) I have never forgotten that + plus what I saw on that model was a lifelong learning experience...I too have never used anything else. If she believed in that product that much, I was going to as well. That was 16 years ago and she was 100% correct.

After her, I looked to Lucie Doughty the single most brilliant Colorist in this country (from the UK also) that has since moved over to Paul Mitchell and ( in my opinion) is the Queen today. I look to Lucie to run with the crown for the next decade or two and with the USA trying to catch up in the hair color race, the need to reach across the pond has diminished. What I teach on Killerstrands, is a combo of what I learned from Lucie and my own spin. So, although the education did not come from me: it is my interpretation and my slant on things after years on my own and with my personal artistic twist and input. Being extremely lucky in having some of the best teachers in the world -- I thank my lucky stars all the time.

This is my interpretation of a universal standard that hair color works; it is chemistry like cooking is. Certain ingredients perform certain actions… emulsifiers, ammonia's, peroxides…they need to be used to perform what they were made for. Certain products have no grey, its black and white…its science although in order to come up with various colors and new inventions we are taking new liberties all the time. The method I relay to you, is going to be as absolutely SIMPLE as possible. Any questions at all I hope you will bring up immediately in the "comments" section - Any comments section, it doesn't matter, I get an email right away when any comment is made anywhere on the site.. Asking the questions here will get you the fastest answer, plus it helps me by posing questions I guarantee you other readers are thinking.

To make it absolutely clear my goal for you as a certified CRIB COLORIST is : to STOP purchasing the boxed Kits of COLOR. They are not set up to work properly on your hair, and in my experience, have seen them damage and destroy hair time after time.

I make the professional color available to you if you'd like to purchase it from me through PAYPAL, making sure you understand the "Level System" and some
color theory. The main goal for you is to buy the items separately - where ever you get them from !

Its not that hard, and the only reason they don't push the separate TUBE ... and DEVELOPER method is , they don't think the public will take the time to learn this small system I am asking you to learn. The LEVEL system. Once you understand THAT . . .then you can figure out what tube of hair color and what Volume of developer you should use.
You are still purchasing the same "basic" ingredients, this way you will purchase the proper "volume" developer and "proper level of color & tone for only your hair" the difference that will happen in just making these few little changes will blow you away. You will learn what Level of hair color you can buy that will work and will not.

Not all hair colors work on all hair, there are many limitations I promise you - they don't tell you that one statement on those box kits. There are already many readers that have taken the time to learn the Level System and have written in with their stories, I will begin a section with them very soon. I promise its very simple - - - like learning to cook - the basics. Please go to our GROUP - there is a BEGINNING to COLOR Your Hair at Home section http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands

This is what you would purchase from Killerstrands to get started :

pH balancer ( it helps the condition & shine- promise)



gloves come free with every order of hair color

Yes this is a broad statement...because every one's hair is very different but this one color process is the single most common hair color performed in the country so I chose that as an example. This is for that person that maybe is a dishwater blond and wants to be a yummy chocolate brown, so every month she has to touch up her roots with the brown tint and refresh the ends.

In order for you to understand which color you should buy when you go to the store you must learn some very simple basics. So please try to have an open mind, hair color manufacturers ‘think’ the consumer won’t take the time to learn the “Level System".
I disagree.
I feel with a little education, demonstrations and a great website it can be solved and all of you can have the knowledge to pick out your own tube of hair color the RIGHT ONE and the proper volume of developer not the one they think you need - hair color does not work that way. So when you color your hair, you don't have to go back and buy another color and cover it up.
From this site alone I have heard of hundreds of women that have had to do that.
That way they are selling you 2 kits
That's not very nice now, is it?

I didn't realize it before I got out into the Salon world and the public. I worked in the Hollywood Glitz world styling with all the tricks of the Trade . . . they are 2 completely different worlds, and I can see why now, as a hair stylist a fairly good size of our business is fixing the disasters created by boxed color kits.We used to call them "job security". . . so why would we want to explain this to anyone?
I have only recently put the whole thing together because I am not working in the hustle & bustle of a Salon.

The Hair Color Manufacturers that make those boxed kits Set You Up To Fail - you either have to purchase 2 kits or send that customer to the Salon to get their hair fixed by a professional - that professional may use that same companies "professional" line of color even.

Either way they are getting you for 2 hair colors - when it only needs to be one.
I have read the back of those kits, I even bought a couple to see what in hell is wrong - after receiving so many complaints & finally having the time to research it..
I don't want to go into it all here - if anyone wants the specifics I have answered many questions on the subject over at YAHOO ANSWERS - under the hair category -" hair color kits ").

What I want you to start thinking about is ...the fix for this, is finally here.

Its already posted, I have been teaching it right along, so you need to begin the series and read pretty much the whole blog up to here. I know it seems like a lot. Sit back and enjoy - I teach a lot of things most every top hair stylist keeps secret...so I would ABSORB - ABSORB it all up if I were you.
Everyone I tell to do that - thanks me.
I try to make it interesting, you can ask questions whenever you want - I answer everything.

Lastly: my illness is terminal, I don't know how long I have left and what will become of this
when I am gone, I am trying to get everything down as quick as possible - I'd like everyone to be able to get the advantages. So I would start learning and reading if I were you. No other Stylist will give up what I have, I've said it before: Stylists are only as good as their trick and secrets.
Mine are here for the world to read and enjoy.
January 28, 2008

Glam Gothic - Choose A Dark Chocolate Shade for Midnight, Moody, Mysterious Hair Appeal

Embrace the latest in cutting -

the cut is extremely important...as much as I stress there are techniques of color you can do at home, I feel a great cut, the best you can afford is well worth it.

Bring out your inner defiant diva
January 27, 2008

Paint Drips & Ribbons - Tricks-of-the-Trade - Part 3

 Drips and Ribbons is more the Killer Strands method

As you'll see in the head sheet break down, you'll see how the 4 strips were chosen. I chose these to make them easily viewable by you ( not the goal in hair really)
2 Drips and 2 Ribbons
I want you to see how easily they are done,
then refer back to the first post
to see how these very simple techniques look on finished hair ...you will be able to relate the photos in that link to how it was accomplished.


let me know if you have any questions I tried to cover it as simply as this medium would allow

These first 5 photos are focused on the red paint Drip on the LEFT side , bleach was applied from mid-strand to end, depending on what you are putting this on top of would make a difference in how exactly you apply it. If it is virgin hair you would apply the same way as if bleaching the hair. If color is on the hair you can apply to the strand as well, it will just have to be left on longer. The hair does not have to be super light...the photos of that stage got deleted.- i apologize. The hair only needs to be lightened to a Level 8-9 for most looks

There are hundreds of choices .. of what to do with these pieces of lightened hair- i did the most bold so it would show up in photos the best. I used blue and wished I had used yellow, but couldn't bring myself to (even tho it didn't matter - how weird am I? ) See how I started the bleach at about the tip of her nose for this one? 
See the very faint blue ribbon? 

Then there is the blue paint drips on the left side which were started close to the bottom of the hair with about 2 inches of hair covered with bleach. Rinsed then covered with Blue FUDGE Semi Permanent hair color ( no peroxide) - so these will fade. Look how cool that blue looks peeking out of the bottom of the hair. LOVE IT . You can put color over the bleach, or tone the bleach pieces, make them SILVER...make them black, or make them a gorgeous vanilla blond...there are hundreds of choices to m ake you different. You know why this is a great technique for Crib Colorists? Its easy to apply to yourself. This technique does not necessarily need to be applied to the back of the head and it still looks damn cool, you can change it all the time as well!

Here we have the Red Ribbons and Blue Ribbons (hidden pretty much), see the difference?? ribbons are ON-THE-SCALP , paint drips are OFF-THE-SCALP from a random place chosen on the hair strip - as if the hair was dipped in a paint can

please any questions,


I wrote this Post ON January 27 2008! Isn't that funny, it's just now 2015 so many of you are getting used to these techniques and ideas of doing hair but the ideas and looks have been around for over 20 years !!!!
January 26, 2008

The Length of Your Hair is Determined by ?

Is the hair on your head.....dead ?

2 Deadly Questions by Killer Chemist
There is a reason, its a bit complicated but it has to do with the fact that the hair on your head is TERMINAL.
Yep, your hair "dies"  - many people use the quote "your hair is dead" which is incorrect  -  in reality: your hair dies, then it sheds 
Every hair on your head goes thru 3 stages
ANAGEN Phase:  A long period of GROWTH stage that lasts 2-6 years, this is the stage that actually determines the "length" of an individuals hair and is determined by heredity and genes. Some peoples 'growth' stage is 2 years, they will have the shorter length hair overall  as their maximum length has less time to grow, while some individuals  have up to 6 years of growth before the hair sheds.They will be the people with the waist length hair you see. On the Hair Blog I have a photo of a woman with hair that is 15 feet long ( she is only 5 feet !)...Needless to say her growth period ( anagen Phase) is obviously a very rare 10 - 15 YEARS!!
That phase is followed by the
CATAGEN Phase: which lasts 2-4 weeks is a period of involution or curling up phase. The follicle stops growing and begins curling up in preparation for
TELOGEN PHASE:  that last 2-4 months and is the period of Rest and Shedding. The Hair is shed and prepares for the re-growth and back to the >
ANAGEN PHASE once again !

Every single hair on your head goes thru these stages and continues to....until...when each hair has gone thru some sort of change and does not start up again and fades off.
In a simplified explanation, that is the beginning and cause of hair loss. As each hair that does not "start up" again after that rest period ...is the key to figuring out why hair loss begins and how to keep that from happening will be the $100 Million dollar question that chemists are working on all over this little planet. Do you know how much that solution will be worth to someone? More than the cure for cancer I suspect.

In contrast to most mammals including mice and newborns the adult human hairs are not synchronous and are at various stages of growth.
At any given time, it has been estimated that approximately 86 percent of your hairs are in the anagen phase... 13% in Telogen and 1% in Catagen. When I realized some of these numbers and thought about some of the treatments & tools we use, flat irons,curling irons - blow dryers and on and on. Well, its not near the surprize to me anymore why the huge increase in "hair loss" and "hair thinning" for women in the USA. 
HEAT is the Number 1 worst habit that will destroy your hair.
What do you think of that now, really? Its such a simple application to get rid of. Very simple. Heat is "man-made" and can be eliminated so easily.
Just start with that one little piece of information and we will begin to work on the 12 steps of 10,000 HEADS : Healthy Hair Regimen.

January 25, 2008

Rainbow Cocktail : A flash of Cobalt, Jade, or Violet Gives a Punky Feel To The Tamest of 'Dos

This technique which lately has been termed "under-coloring" has been around for a very long time, you are used to seeing black or dark brown underneath a blond VEIL ( hair on top). With this model the use of Deep Ocean Blue, Purple and Scarlet gives a whole new dimension to an "old technique"... re-name it and you may have an award winning style on your hands. I realize my readers are trying to learn the basics, but this can be a "basic", it really can.

The technique is very possible for you Home Hair Colorists HHC to accomplish. No not to this extreme, a more mellow 'version' but still for some excitement and for the 2 color separation (one on top and the other on the bottom ) it is very easy and we will go into this if I hear some requests... after I finish with Dolly ( part 3 tomorrow)

black and silver highlights......how YUMMY........................................
see the Emerald ribbons underneath the blond Veil

This Level 3 model has the technique "Paint Drips" . . . in the future...I plan on showing more new photos of hair styles and pointing out techniques we are discussing or learning so you can start to pick them out yourself. If we are here to learn hair color, which from all of my mail and Comments, is the number 1 reason most of you are here, - part of that category is teaching you the names of the techniques and you must begin to spot techniques when you are out in public as well..
Especially techniques you are learning to accomplish at home.
.......................................But anyway...back to the model, she is a perfect example of the success and the brilliance of this technique. I LOVE this TECHNIQUE, its trying to break into the USA, its huge and been huge in the European hair market...we are slow to change here.
Don't most of you think this is gorgeous? With a Level 3 hair I would shy away from adding blonde to it, it is just to far away from her virgin hair, but many people and I bet there is at least one reading this ( if not many!!) that have this exact hair color and want something more exciting and "fun" - - its a very common problem in the Salon, so why wouldn't it be here. With a modest 10-12 foils and most likely a 10AB or 12AB + 40 volume, this woman's hair has the most gorgeous and easy to accomplish Dynamite Hair Color.

Add Splashes of Color to High-light Layers For Effective Movement and Texture