July 27, 2016

Wen's Woes Won't Go Away - Over 17,000 Complaints to the FDA

A few years back I wrote an honest and heartfelt letter about my opinion on the so called Cleansing Conditioners by WEN. I honestly care about every one of you getting the proper answers and advice to help you....and though I would just put out my warning. It was super mean or super strict by any such means......but, after purchasing & trying it myself.....the results were horrible in my opinion . So I wrote a whole Post about how I thought his whole idea was bullshit.  

 I said the only reason that the people on one side of a "BEFORE & AFTER" - had beautiful hair after they used the WEN product was that one had an excellent  BLOW DRY & the other one didn't. 

Well, he sent me a letter of warning ( from his attorney) to "Cease & Desist" with my Post regarding his product and him....So, instead of sticking up for myself - I caved and gave in and deleted it. I am so mad at myself, for that....if I was healthy I would have fought him tooth and nail......but I am just not that strong any longer.  Can you believe that? My little ole 10 year Blog............it was ridiculous.

Taking care of every one of you ... that has entrusted me with the care & color of your YOUR HAIR is VERY important to me. There are so many other more important stories and troubles in the world right now we should not be talking about hair so, something like this will not get the front-page press it normally would. I don't think gossip and unimportant Hollywood BS should be the most important stories we listen to on our new programs. Its why you will never see an article or photo of that famous "K" family that the youth of today find such a fascination with. They live in the town I was born and raised in and they have ruined it, so any little bit I can do to not promote them, I will.

This is what has been atop all the Cosmetic Chemistry trade publications, and I am thrilled -- because this man, who thought he was so 'above-the-rules' that he didn't have to follow the rules or standards put forth by a society - has been bitten in the ass.

Maybe you've been sucked into the infomercials featuring (out-of-work actors - paid lots of $$ are hosting). Maybe you have a friend who swears by it, or you've even given it a try yourself. Either way, chances are you've heard of WEN... the cleansing conditioner developed by celebrity hairstylist Chaz Dean - they call him that but between all my family members & hundreds of friends who all are Stunt people in the industry for over 50 years, not one celeb we know would dare let him touch his hair.

 It was the most recognizable brand name of the "no-poo" movement, where you cleanse your hair with what he refers to as as a "CLEANSING CONDITIONER". But, that MAKES ABSOLUTELY NO SENSE, if its a shampoo then it should be called a shampoo, because the definition of a Shampoo is: 

         a special liquid that is used for cleaning your hair

Well, everyone's favorite infomercial hair care brand is now facing a new class-action lawsuit brought forward by customers who say the products cause hair loss and scalp damage, among other issues. Let's check out whats known so far and what happened this week:
1. More than 200 women from 40 states are involved in the class-action lawsuit, which has been filed in California Federal Court against Wen by Chaz Dean and Gunthy Renker its marketer. According to in-depth coverage in THE DAILY BEAST - yesterday, the women claim "Wen products can cause severe and possibly permanent damage to hair, including significant hair loss to the point of visible bald spots, hair breakage, scalp irritation, and rash."2. These claims aren't new. Similar-but-smaller suits were filed in 2014 and last year, per quick Googling of the matter. (It's unclear exactly how they were resolved - $10 bucks says he paid them off!).) And Wen-related hair loss complaints on consumer websites date back over 5 years. More recently, complaints have been taken to Facebook & Twitter and they also pop up in product reviews on sites like Sephora & Amazon. Reviews can never be  accounted for as scientific facts as they are controlled by the webmaster.
3. AS the Daily BEAST states this might be a tough case to crack since there are so many potential reasons for hair loss. But, every day a few more hundred people report in their hair loss issues.
We'll wait and see what happens with the lawsuit before we make any kind of judgment either way. In the meantime, we're curious: How many of you have tried Wen? What was your experience like overall? Let me know in the comments below!
UPDATE March 10, 2016: There's been a surprising twist in the case—the government is now involved.
UPDATE July 22, 2016: And we have even more news: The FDA is now officially involved in the case.

Looks like there might finally be some concrete answers about the safety of Wen hair care products. Wen by Chaz Dean has now received "the largest number of  reports ever associated with any cosmetic hair cleansing product." That's according to the FDA, which just launched an official investigation into the safety of Wen Cleansing Conditioners, following months of consumer complaints against the brand, a class-action lawsuit filed in December, and calls to action by government officials.

 Customers claim that Wen's popular scented cleansing conditioners, meant to be used in lieu of shampoo, can lead to serious skin and hair problems, including bald spots, hair breakage, irritation, and scalp rashes. As of July 7, 127 consumer-safety complaints against Wen had been registered directly with the FDA and more than 21,000 sent to the brand, according to the FDA, which discovered this during recent inspections of Wen's manufacturing and distribution facilities.

Now the FDA will begin investigating the claims against Wen, which has continued to maintain the safety of its products. "The FDA has not yet determined a possible cause for the adverse events that have been reported, and today has called on the company to provide any data that might help us to better understand the reports of hair loss associated with the use of Wen by Chaz Dean Cleansing Conditioner products," the agency states in a press release. "The FDA also has reached out to physicians and other health care providers asking them to notify their patients of hair loss and other complaints associated with the use of these products and to report adverse events to the agency."

What should Wen lovers do in the meantime? Here's what officials recommend: "While the FDA continues its investigation, consumers should be aware of reactions reported in association with the use of WEN by Chaz Dean Cleansing Conditioner products. Consumers who experience a reaction after using Wen by Chaz Dean Cleansing Conditioner products should stop using the product and consult with their dermatologist or other health care provider. The agency also urges consumers to:
REPORT your Results to the FDA PLEASE.

This isn't the first time the U.S. government should do more when it comes to ensuring that the ingredients used in beauty products are safe. A new national SURVEY released March 1 revealed that 87 percent of voting Americans want stricter regulation of personal care products, and since last spring, two senators have been actively working toward making that happen. Dianne Feinstein and Susan Collins (a California Democrat and Maine Republican) are pushing forward a bipartisan bill called the Personal Care Products Safety Act that would update the Food, Drug, and Cosmetics Act—an 80-year-old law that's supposed to guarantee the safety of cosmetics but falls short of what's needed to wrangle what's now a $189 billion a year industry.  

 PLEASE-PLEASE-PLEASE vote for this, this is the bare minimum needed for your products to be safe for your hair.....Their law would require companies to ensure that products are safe before putting them on the market and give the FDA tools for enforcing this.

My Best As always,

July 24, 2016

Counting Well Over 50 "Purple" Shampoos on the market - "Blue" Makes Its Appearance !

Blue based colors, blue based conditioners and blue based shampoos are the only category of products that will cancel out any Gold, Blorange, or orangish tones you will have in your hair .Lets examine the Purple/Violet shampoo craze as an example ...
See where Violet/purple is on the Color wheel.....theway it works in hair color is..............If you want to cancel or tone DOWN an annoying color (these are the top 5 annoying tones in hair) whether it be :
  • Brass/yellow..................use violet to tone it down
  • Gold.............................use blue-violet to tone it down
  • Blorange....................use Blue tone color to tone it down
  • Red............use green/or Ash tone color to tone it down
  • Green........red tone to tone down any greenish tones....
the way it works is.......................you must look ACROSS the Wheel to the opposing side and you are to use THAT color to TONE down the annoying one.

Directly across from Brass (brass=yellow) which bothers most blondes of the world is Violet. Thus... the 50 brands of Violet/purple shampoos and conditioners of the world, flooded on every shelf. Even my 83 year old mom uses our violet shampoo - sulfate-free mind you !!!  ;)...she has silver hair which has a tendency to get a yellowish cast to it, it works wonderfully for her as well.

Now if you have the next most complained about tones to you blondes (usually in a more medium blond)  are what we refer to as Blorange, Gold, or orange.... Now if you look across the color wheel from orange you will see Blue, also across from the yellow-orange is....Blue-violet . Which are the 2 colors we are wanting to talk about with this post as I think they will help a lot of you, without you really thinking about it.

 We have 2 new products in the line "BURST" our new color enhancing Conditioners (including  Breaking Bad BLUE, Titanium & U.S. Navy ) all super helpful in 

We started with the product being a shampoo, then began running Strand Tests on all colors - in both Shampoo & Conditioner. I'm telling you the shampoos just did not pass the tests!

The Shampoos faded alot in the end result, because of the water content in shampoo. Shampoos are always 80%--90% WATER !! 

 There are over 50 Purple Shampoos to diminish Brass. Finally I have formulated a Blue Conditioner and Blue-Violet Conditioner, which will provide the exact same luxury for those of you with Blorange, orange or Gold casts in your hair that drive you nuts.That is 2nd in line for problems in hair DURP that is just WRONG AND MUST BE FIXED !

That sounds correct for which levels have BLORANGE or Gold DURP....for years Blondes have soaked up the advantage of the purple shampoo, now those with Blorange have a Blue Conditioner

 Depending on the Blorange brightness it usually will take 2-3 times, because people are nervous about the blue Conditioner..........the funny part to me is..........everyone thinks bright ass purple shampoo is just plain normal, but BLUE....oh no!!! That is so strange......................   no it isn't !
It follows science, and when you follow science then you are no longer using Guesswork, which I find so many hair Colorists doing. They, "guess", to come up with a color formula. When there is a solid scientific method for pretty much every question!

Use Breaking Bad Blue and after 1-4 times science rears its beautiful head & will begin knocking down that orange or Blorange cast !
Just know the longer you leave it on, the better it will work, if you have it right where you want it, then alternate it with Soma spray detangler and or PURE the color-free conditioner........ I've heard many say 
to get up to the color they like best, it takes longer then they thought at first.... then they use it once a week to keep the color perfect - everyone is different..
The real answer the Blorange issues is to leave the lightener on one more time..........as you seee to the right here..............................................------------->>>
Its the same head of hair ....the middle chucnk of hair is 1 application of lightener. Rinse - Dry and apply one more time. Then you get the result on the left ! ! 
 - Please run a strand test and you will see what I am referring to. One additional application of the Violet-blue based lightening kit will lighten this look PAST the orange stage and into the light yellow stage which - when dried appears platinum.

Be sure to check out that post to calculate your TRUE Level that can be very important if you are trying to master the road to becoming a Crib Colorist!
thanx for your question


July 23, 2016

50 Shades of Silver . . . . . Hair That Is

Many people turn gray a lot earlier than you think - high school is when many begin the romp into lovely Silver Strands. Just yesterday I was talking with a woman at the grocery store who was scratching her head. I asked her if she had just got her hair colored and..........she did . . . she was floored that I knew that. But, its a common site from people who are not colored correctly.  I asked her if she had much gray and she replied, "a ton"........."I started getting gray when I was 18, so I have been coloring my hair over 28 years (as she thought about how old her son was)."  She said she had never had an itchy scalp before. I decided to see if she was open to some education...I told her if you have that much gray you should,
"Try to not shampoo your hair after coloring for at least 48 hours"
She was surprised to hear that fact. So I started wondering if I truly gone over the subject of 
"gray hair coverage" to everyone and how to truly get good gray coverage and keep it covered.

When gray first appears, most top Colorists will begin with the Demi-permanent approach....here at Killerstrands I just love the Wella Color Touch line. To me that is the single most versatile, gentle, beautiful and awesome line of hair color. We use it for everything in professional hair color. As far as for gray coverage it is opaque and if you have fine/medium hair, you can begin with 6 Volume developer for your first treatment on brand new gray hair -- the next Step would be using 13 volume Developer in the same line, for as long as that choice lasts and then the next Step up would be 20Volume ( permanent)

There is only one type of hair that will put up a wall against Demi color working and that is
coarse hair. The coarser the hair the more likely a permanent color option may be the only answer. But, the best plan for covering gray over your lifetime is to start at the lowest........... least radical ..........hair color ( lowest Volume of developer) and work your way up the strength of hair color options as the years goes by. Any good Colorist works this way on all regular normal "gray coverage" hair color Clientele. I say "regular" because you can cover gray hair by going platinum if you want, to me I love that answer the best, but it IS costly and it is "HIGH MAINTENANCE"...........I always say if something is costly and high maintenance it probably ROCKS . . . and platinum Hair does Rock !

There are people who look wonderful in gray, and a lot of you lately I here are getting fed up with the constant coloring especially when the percentage of gray hair is 50% and above and are reaching towards letting your gray grow out and just going for the la naturel look!. For those with that I do understand the frustration and I have changed my tune about whether I think people should try it or not. When I was in the Salon I had a couple each week decide to try that....and I would say 8 out of 10 hated it and turned back. But the times are changing and trying it is worth it, you can always go back to hair color.

One of the best ways to grow that silver hair is to use our BOOST and BURST in CHROME Chocolate. 

Which is our single richest color. It is Silver/Brown and it comes out beautiful and breaks up the line of demarcation., really nicely!

 . I have taken people from their 50/50 gray, which means 50% of their hair is gray and 50% is their natural....to gray and they end up going back it DOES age you remember....and my suggestion for a good "rule of thumb" is. . .don't go until you are 100% ready. Before that, most likely means, YOU ARE NOT READY!

I want to talk to those that have super-duper Stubborn gray. You all know who you are, it means your gray coverage doesn't even last 1 month. Which means 1 of 2 things.............you have the wrong formula (90% of you)  OR.........you have very coarse, SUPER resistant hair (10% the rest of you!)  and it needs Pre-treating.  This is one of those treatments hair stylists don't talk about and truthfully I think I have only needed it a couple dozen times in all my years of coloring hair. But this could be what some of you need. Remember this is ONLY FOR THOSE with super COARSE hair. 
There is a process call "pre-treating" or "pre-softening"............pre-softening works with very resistant gray hair.It opens up the cuticle BE-FORE you color. 
Just take 10 Volume Developer STRAIGHT....
Apply 10 volume just on the gray re-growth for 10 minutes .........then wipe off............then apply the PROPER color formulation immediately after ward in the normal fashion.

More than 75% of USA women color their hair and gray coverage is the number one reason....you have to admit it is the cheapest, safest and quickest way to look younger........and NO Knife!

I receive calls every week from men & women having hard times with their gray coverage.....9 times out of 10 they have the incorrect formula or incorrect product. Covering Gray is an art and if you are not a master of it you will not have a thriving clientele. There IS a way to cover every type of gray hair on planet earth. Some harder than others.

The number 1 mistake most of you make is not using a hair color line like its supposed to be used. You are suppose to choose this certain category for Gray coverage....(Neutrals or the /0 ZERO category)
....this other category to fight unwanted tones - Ash - Matt & Violet ......
and another category for your target shade......all the target shades out there.....
 Which is why I always say using less than 3 colors in a formula really makes little sense to me. That is how I was taught and over the years it proved to be a fantastic education in building a very fast - large thriving clientele because they were very very happy with my work.   
Since gray hair is missing the 3 primary colors (red, yellow & blue) You need many various colors/tones to replace what is missing. 


June 27, 2016

How / Why Hair Is So Screwed Up After 1 Application of Box Hair Color. WHY ? Makes ZERO Sense to Readers (read KC explanation)

Never used boxed hair color nor any Kits of kind on your hair, if you care AT ALL . . . about the condition or the look of it afterward. 

There is simply NO WAY the Level system of hair color will work on every single persons hair that walks into a store. NO ONE READS the back, they glance at it, but mainly they look at the color of the persons hair on the big Beautiful - wonderfully LIT photo on the front of the Box. Boy, I advise any consumer of any or all products that are sold on the Internet, to do a little research regarding all the bells & whistles used to take that photo, light the hair and face, then to have it artificially altered by PHOTO SHOP.

Think about all that is gone into that photo of that one girl chosen for that one photo, especially when hair color is a multi-billion dollar company. They put out what is known as "cattle calls' to all the top Beauty agencies in Hollywood, Dallas & New York City. Then thousands of girls are 'looked at'..............' photographed'.............Analyzed upside down and right-side UP........Then the extensions experts come-in and add extensions and the hair is freshly color..... If you notice in Tina Fey's hair color commercial for hair shampoo......she wears a wig. WHY? Because there simply is no way in Hell, that a man/woman/or child model or actor is going to put $10.00/ hair color FROM....A....Box ( from Walmart) ..... IN-THEIR-HAIR !!!  If you had all the money and access to the best.....the finest.........the top Colorists and Hair Cutters in the world, do you think you would get in your car and drive down to CVS and purchase Box Hair Color and do it yourself..............or even have someone apply it for you.

WHY. . . .WOULD. . . . .SOME. . .ONE,  IN THEIR  RIGHT  MIND  . . . DO. . . THAT? 

 They just simply would not. So, in order for the Tina Fey:  Hair Color and Hair Shampoo commercial not to be completely FALSE ADVERTISING ( and now with every single person, even 5 year olds having cell phones with video camera's attached to their bodies ) Large mega-Billionaire companies have to be more careful about covering their ASS, and doing " whats RIGHT ! ". Everyone loves Tina Fey, Kids - Women - Men - EVERYONE, she tests well ACROSS-THE-BOARD. So for the commercials to be credible, effective AND realistic. They have purchased a $50.000 - 75,000. Wig. The wig has 100% human hair in Tina's really color but Tina suffers from premature Gray and has been covering her gray for many years. So when they signed her for the hair contract with Garnier the only way she would agree to it (as would any hotshot celebrity) would be if she could wear a wig that was died in their actual hair color. 

A very long time ago when I did these commercials, the cell phone industry was for the rich and wealthy - remember those days???
So it made it much easier to get away with all of our canoodling and  B - S - ING !!!

 I mean . . . think about it there is one box of boxed hair color on the shelf.
The photo on the front is Tina Fey with her Level 6 B Hair color.

What happens when
 ........................when a:
  • black haired, 
  • brown hair 
  • blond hair 
  • albino and a
  • red hair person 
all walk in the same store or goes to that lame madison reed website or the other one ( can't think of the name) which are online.....and all 5 of those people purchase the same box of hair color.....because on that same day they all woke up and said, 
" I want to be a Level 6 Brunette today " ? ? ? ?

Now, please don't think this is such an odd occurrence....
I have 6000 people per day read this Blog and we acquire hundreds new readers - each & every week. 
 At least half of them have made the box hair color mistake......I tell you......if I wasn't ill. I would take up the cause in the judicial system and begin to get the whole theory banned from the public's use. Or I would come up with a better system that involved some education prior to purchasing hair color.
There is no way in the world that BOXED HAIR color with 1 bottle of developer in the box will work. Every single person ....while ''half'' may use the same color in the tube, they MUST have a different VOLUME of developer or the result will be completely destroyed as the results have been before.  The most popular hair color in the entire world is BLACK, coloring Black hair is pretty easy and keeping it black it pretty easy as well. So I believe that is what they thought of when they made Boxed hair dye. Yes, it will work for Level 1 & Level 2                                                  .

BOXED hair color should be banned, I  personally listen to thousands of you weekly who go through this and I will never stop answering this question because I want you all to get MAD ENOUGH to stop purchasing them and to call your congressman and tell them they should be banned from the shelves.
They are like purchasing a bottle of dynamite. It works 1 out of 10 times, and it still damages the hair by having the incorrect formula inside for at least 90 % of you ! That IS a lot of mistakes !. I feel like people think, " well crap" its only hair! ! ! ! But I don't know one of you who doesn't care about your hair.! !  A.....LOT !

With the Level System of Hair coloring it gives you options and formulas for you to figure out your color using TUBES of hair and then calculating which Volume of Developer that works with the 2-5 tubes of color you would use in order to create your perfect formula. If you look at my Killer 18 questions ('Google' them on my Blog ) those questions and then their answers are what will educate you on the knowledge of the basics of the LEVEL SYSTEM. Its something you  can use your entire life so begin educating yourself


June 21, 2016

What Exactly Is A Hair Color Booster & Why Do You Need Them ?

Color Boosters are designed to create custom, signature color shades. Every single line of hair color comes with Boosters . . . they all call them a different name it seems. Some call them MIXERS....some BOOSTERS.....some call the m Special MIXERS, the names are as vast as the amount of hair color lines their are..etc.....
They can be used in any Color formulation for increased color vibrancy or as a stand alone
shade for special effect coloring on pre-lightened hair. Some companies have 2-3 BOOSTERS, some have 20. Within the Wella Lines of color in both the Permanent Line of color which is Koleston Perfect and the Demi-Permanent Line of color which is Color Touch ..... they both have their own BOOSTERS as you can see.

Here is a chart showing the boosters at the bottom of the chart, so you may see for reference
 See, them at the bottom
They always seem like odd colors, but they are usually tones that are difficult to achieve in normal hair colors.
here is the list....
 But, the funny part is, with SILVER being such a hot color now.......look at 0/11 and the above swatch chart of it! 
It really does turn out to be a fantastic Silver . . . . just by using the Booster Alone + a Low Volume Developer....like "Pastel Developer" or 13Volume Developer ( which prior to all the crazy colors being popular was used to add "ash" a silvery ash to a formula.

Which btw, the new BOOST & BURST color that I came up with Chrome Chocolate has become super-duper Popular, which is a very silvery Dark Brunette, could be achieved by adding 0/11 PLUS 5/7 Plus 20 Volume .
All of these colors may be used alone, but the initial reason they were developed was to add a richer tone to colors that cannot be achieved by one hair color tube.


One of the most popular that has been used over the last 20 years was : 0/45, which gives  RED/Violet  formula a deeper richer Red-Violet.....one of the most difficult colors to achieve RG for those with Copper hair. Both of those Colors Fade easily .....and the reason is the RED pigment has not been as mastered as well as the rest of the pigments have.
Wella has been known for many years and remains the number 1 hair color line with the best / richest REDS. Which is known world-wide to be the most difficult color pigment to achieve and for it to remain bright for a long time, it truly does help extend the richness of the color if you add 1/4 of the formula as a booster.

These MIXERS are each formulated with specifically balanced color dyes to make it easy
to create signature hair-color or special effects. For increased color vibrancy, color boosters can be added into any of your Permanent formulations 'normally' up to ¼ of your color portion is what is suggested

For special effects, or a stand alone shade, our standard mixing ratio and processing time is one part Permanent Color Booster plus one part Developer (1:1) for 65 minutes in a warm room.
Booster Shades
Red.............these are the normal ones that most every line has......then you see Wella adding:
and Violet.

I have personally used boosters my entire career. NO they are absolutely necessary. .. . BUT they do help in adding richness to formula's, plus coming up with unique and rare hair colors that cannot be achieved with out them.

BOOST + BURST - Semi-Permanent Hair Color

BOOST + BURST  - Semi-Permanent Hair Color
Our Color Enhancing Shampoo/Conditioners in 26 Colors


Wella Professional Line of Products - Nothing is Better

Wella Professional Line of Products - Nothing is Better
Xcellent Gray Coverage, beautiful Shine + Hair Looks Like a Million Bucks w/ Wella !


We RECEIVE : Many Kind Acknowledgements :

Great in-between color! 06/15/16
Full StarFull StarFull StarFull StarFull Star
I am in the process of growing my blond colored hair out to go back to my natural salt-and-pepper color. My hairdresser recommended BOOST+BURST in Sterling. I am very satisfied! It helps the growing-out process to not be so obvious, and I like the way it makes my hair feel. Excellent product!