April 30, 2008

It Takes a Smart Brunette : To Play a Dumb Blond

Gorgeous . . . absolutely smashing

Nothing more awesome, than a beautiful brunette
April 25, 2008

Democrat & Republican of Hair Color: Permanent Hair Color > Holds Down 2 Opposing Jobs

Lift & Deposit ; 2 Jobs of Permanent Hair Color

Must Work Together For Good of Hair,

Come From Completely Different Camps

Permanent hair color, or single-process hair color is designed to permanently alter the natural pigment of hair. Oxidative color, henna, metallic, compound dyes and bleach are all considered permanent tints.

Today we are talking about permanent hair color. The only category of all the hair colors that performs 2 actions - while its on the hair - at the same time! With Semi & Demi Permanent hair color they have one job only and that is to "deposit" color onto the hair strand, which is why they do not lighten the hair.
There are 2 'jobs' that PERMANENT hair color is capable of performing
  • lifting &
  • depositing
It is also called subtraction of the hairs natural pigment and addition of synthetic pigment.

Permanent color is exactly as it sounds - it penetrates into the cortex of the hair and becomes "locked" in through a process called oxidation. Permanent color forever alters the texture of the hair, causing it to swell ( giving it body!)- which is why if you have thin hair, coloring it with permanent color makes you feel like you have a whole new head of hair. This is the #1 reason I color my own, and many like me do - I color mine the same color it is, I have no gray, I color it for the body... I have always felt my hair is in better condition since it has been colored with the top of the line professional hair colors, which is why I have made them available to you. If you are a fanatic about your hair, this is your web site.

Join the Group http://groupspaces.com/KillerstrandsHairClinic/ to view the color charts up close, drop me an email with PRODUCT ORDER in the subject line at: Killerstrands@gmail.com - for more info.
Permanent color means the color lasts until it grows out or is cut off. Once hair is permanently tinted is cannot be made "untinted". (unless of course you go through the Decolorization method http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/search/label/decolorization%20of%20hair )
Keep in mind if you are lightening, you are subtracting (-) or lifting color.
Lifting: Removing, subtracting, or lightening color from the hair. The lightening ability of hair color .... or the amount a certain volume of developer will oxidize

Depositing: adding color to the hair. the portion of single process oxidation when the color enters the cortex of the hair.
However in permanent hair coloring (not using bleach), there is also a stage that deposits color pigment into the hair. If you are depositing , you are adding(+), therefore, when you both lighten and deposit color, you are doing both subtraction and addition! This tint service is the highest in demand, BUT . . . it is the most difficult one to do correctly. Still, it is so much easier using the LEVEL SYSTEM which is why I have been trying to cram that into your head...the Level system will conquer so many issues for so many of you, just trust me and keep going over it , it took me over a year to thoroughly understand it. Just keep reading and using it - even if it seems foreign to you, I promise one day it will 'click' but you MUST keep reviewing it.

I realize we don't want to get too technical, nor into too much chemistry-head mumbo jumbo - but . . . in order to understand this we have to graze across those subjects for a bit, bear with me.

Permanent haircoloring products are designed to permanently alter the natural pigmentation of the hair. That line of demarcation appears when using this category of hair color,  demi's also produce this line, semis don't. The most distinctive point to permanent hair color is that it has the ability to "lighten" your natural hair because it is lifting the natural pigment out of the hair strand when applied. Ammonia (in the tube) combines with hydrogen peroxide in the developer to lighten the natural pigment, therefore making the change Permanent. With this technology you are able to go from a Level 7 to a Level 10 with a tube of color, NOT BLEACH. Many people like this idea, although this is where one will run into the "yellows" many times, if not performed correctly.

Permanent hair color has 2 tricks...2 jobs....2 missions : Lightening and permanent depositing, all permanent hair coloring products work about the same. The lift comes from the combination of the ammonia (or other catalyst) in the tube of color and the hydrogen peroxide in the developer that creates the lift.

Ammonia is a critical ingredient in permanent hair color and it must contain ammonia or an ingredient that does the exact same thing, or what we are trying to do with it, will not happen, and that is cosmetic chemistry ladies and gents. The problem comes from ammonia when too much ammonia is used, it can be damaging, at the same time...without ammonia -- deposit and lifting would not occur. Ammonia, or another product that is just like it - is essential.

"Ammonia" is picked on as the bad-guy in hair damage, which I can only deduct comes from its offensive 'odor' and again from its "name".

That is just not the case, almost every cosmetic chemist would agree with me I'm certain. Yes, unfortunately when breaks in some of the disulfide cross-links cause oxidative hair damage (damage from any permanent hair color), Stylists get the 'cause' mixed-up and think it comes from the ammonia, because that is what they smell as does the client....contrary to that misconception, the damage comes from the peroxide.

The problem being, in order to get that gorgeous beautiful "un-yellow" blond, you need all three components. As I have said before the best answer to this problem? . . . having a highly trained Stylist that knows the precise amount of the 3 ingredients ... not too much of one or too little of the other.. which takes years of experience.

When some say they don't want "ammonia" in their hair color, I scratch my head.... Its the exact same problem I find with the public and preservatives. People say they don't want preservatives in their products, but if they really understood the chemistry of it all, I am sure they would not say that. Preservatives keep your cosmetics, safe. Same with Ammonia in this respect, permanent hair color must have it - and it must be added in a precise amount. Manufacturers strive to put just enough and not too much ammonia in their hair color - I feel that is the key to which hair color works the best opposed to the slackers.

Alkaline substance: an ingredient hair color that has a pH greater than 7, causing the cuticle to open and permanent color to enter the cortex

Ammonia is an alkali; is SWELLS the hair shaft which helps with deposit/penetration. It is also a catalyst who's primary purpose is to facilitate the lightening by releasing oxygen -- supplied by the developer, to oxidize the (virgin) natural pigment. Ammonia, lastly creates the necessary alkalinity for the development of permanent color.

Permanent haircoloring is always alkaline in pH.

Alkaline substance is usually, but not always, ammonia. It causes the cuticle to swell, allowing for deposit of the color pigment molecules & promoting lightening action. You need ammonia to swell the hair shaft.

The refined color products available today use lower amounts of ammonia, making for little or no damage and less fading. They also enable the cuticle to close completely after the color process. The ammonia is not a free ammonia; its a derivative. You absolutely need it to open the cuticle. Most of the color products today have a very refined ammonia content that will readily wash from the hair with water, so the next time you hear 'ammonia' - I would suggest not making a "name" judgement {based purely on the name}. Its a much more complicated procedure than just the name.

The ammonia of a haircoloring product is not in the developer; it is in the tube with the dyes.

Lighter levels contain more ammonia than lower levels in order to provide more lightening capability. All Colorists know that distinctive WHIFF after opening a Level 12 Ash in the color room.

The higher the Level of color, the more LIFT and the less DEPOSIT. the Lower the Level, the less the lift and the Greater the deposit.

I'd like you all to be thinking about the following:

Most of you have seen Peroxide, or Developer, as I like to call it.

10 Volume, 20 Volume, 30 Volume & 40 Volume - are the 4 main 'boys'

6 Volume 17 Volume 25 Volume and on and on have been tacked on lately. The Volume of peroxide does not determine how strong it is, what the volume signifies is: "How Long It Will Lift" . Another point where I get frustrated is when people say to me they don't want to use 40 Volume, only 20. Well, its (virtually) the same liquid only one "lifts longer" than the other.
The higher the Volume the longer and more the Lift! So using 40 volume many times will help prevent the dreaded "yellows" or "brassiness" you see so much, again it is an art. Buy a doll's head with your hair color to practice on or I can sell you hair swatches of your own hair color to test with. Again make it a hobby, as soon as you get down, you will be doing your hair like the pros! Being sure to put in the proper amount of "practice time".

From just our Google Group and the comments posted in there, it seems to be the single most common problem for Crib Colorists the 'too yellow' problem . Lightening is the most common form of hair color we have so far, and why would there be too many yellows or problems with yellow?
4 answers:

#1.) Not leaving the color on long enough (or needing a 2nd application)

#2.) Using too low volume peroxide

#3.) Using the wrong tool for the job....Using high lift blond tint when bleach (lightener) was needed.

#4.) Not using a light enough tint/color/dye

Hate to say this but I have always felt the manufacturers are off about 1 level....they're never quite as light as you want, very very rarely will it be 'too light', that is a very hard problem to have and a super easy problem to fix.

Keep this list of 4 solutions to "yellow" hair.

To try when this problem lands on your head.

More on permanent color coming.
April 15, 2008
Guess What Today Is . . .

Please send your wishes to the Blog for Posterity!!
April 12, 2008

Rock the New LA Hobby : Hair Color

Nearly 80% of women are coloring their hair at home, how many know how to do it correctly ?


Hair COLOR ~newest home hobby that can:

  • conquer the creative urge

  • clobber thirst for knowledge

  • solve 'unqualified' Hair Stylist factor

  • hit the kicks and giggles button at a 10

  • finally, solves the McCheap-y factor in us all,

Something hit me this week as a result of the comments and questions on the site. What is so wrong with making Hair Color a legitimate hobby for the women of America? You know, how the age old task of "cooking" has popped up and changed on the scene.

10 years ago there were no cooking TV shows (even my kids watch habitually now ) - there was no Top Chef > no Rachel Ray > no Emeril, there was no "FOOD" network channel. Cooking, a necessity of life, has become an extremely popular hobby, a grand production, an art

that people of all ages and types are taking to staggering levels. What I grew up with, being a mandatory part of the daily regimen, has turned into a beautiful little art that people of all ages are learning and mastering. Hobbies are wonderful and economical escapes from the drudgery of everyday life. Yes, everyone has to eat, but as the most recent numbers hit hair trade magazines, estimates are now close to 80% of all women, color their hair. So, although hair color is not mandatory like food and eating..with the numbers at the levels they are, you would think they almost are.
Over 12 Billion dollars is spent on home Hair Color, therefore, hair coloring is closing in on the levels of cooking -no, not every single person has to do it (like eating) BUT... a whole lot of people are taking part in it - they are performing the process anyway, why not refine the habit into a fully detailed and organized hobby?

why not take Haircolor
and reclassify the action
as a hobby ?
By following a designed course of learning...
say, beginning with the basics of :
  • color theory

  • the chemistry process

  • hair & scalp properties

  • the Level system

so that when those 80% of women are doing what they already DO, they would now be doing it correctly, so they do not damage their hair . . . nor do not end up with it , under or over processed.

What a concept
The Boxed hair color business is now worth over $12 billion worldwide for home -use hair color - in addition to $1.8 billion to $2.5 billion in salon color sales, according to James Robinson Ltd., one of the world's leading manufacturers of dye components, based in West Yorkshire, England. The total amount is a couple of billion greater than America's missile defense budget for 2006! Lets throw that up there at the presidential candidates and see what they have to say about it, wouldn't you LLLLLLove to hear each one of their answers, even if it was just a skit on John Stewarts DAILY SHOW ! I sure would.

P & G Proctor & Gamble, whom I talk about a lot, owns quite few hair companies: Clairol, Aussie, Head & Shoulders, Graham Webb, Pantene, Wella, Natural Instincts, Pantene, Herbal Essence, Nice 'n Easy, Sebastian are just a few....P & G is the top Advertiser in the entire USA, what do advertisers run? EVERYTHING. They steer and control TV, Magazines, Google, I'm sure you have noticed how the Internet went from this wonderful place you could look up everything free and join groups and research stuff all free, well that seems to be gone forever. Every damn thing on the Internet ( including me) now involves some form of advertising - it is so very sad, as much as I believe and support capitalism and democracy...Its sad when it steps in the way of something like I am attempting to do here. {wait till you see what I have to throw at you next}
By L'Oréal's reckoning, 60 percent of women in the United States color their hair. So do a growing number of younger teenagers, pre-teens, men of all ages and older women - who used to give up on hair color around the 60-year mark. Consider one of today's hair-color role models, Martha Stewart, who is 63. 20 years ago no one would have ever said or thought there would be a 63 year old hair model. 60 year olds used to just let their hair go gray and forget it.

This is a brilliant idea and a positive turn in direction for me on this Blog. So that will be one of our new directions Hair Color:the Hobby - so> Crib Colorists commence! You may find it hard to believe, but my college degree is in fashion marketing, I have this knack...it was something I was born with it, for picking out trends, styles, products - even music...way before it is ever popular. Used to drive my kids nuts, no kids like seeing their parents have that type of skill. For their entire childhood I could hear a song once, and tell them it was going to be a hit. I would pick it out way before even my kids wanted to listen to it...then a month or 2 later the song I chose would be on the top 20....then the top 10....then the top 5.....and damn if it didn't end up being number 1 almost every single time for weeks and weeks....it was the weirdest thing. My kids would get so mad, they hated the fact that I was right on "current" music... Same thing with trends in clothes, shoes, styles...it was a weird talent, didn't know what to do with it, but I had it.

It still works, not nearly as well, but its there. I can see I was taking the wrong road with trying to put Hair Color Kits down, nothing works correctly when you choose the negative road - lets head down the positive road and focus on Haircolor the HOBBY, for the movement to work.


Having Killerstranders coloring their hair this way already is what set this train in motion. Have you ever noticed how those hobby stores like Michael's never are at a lack for customers? People love hobbies, activities to entertain the mind, the heart ,the brain and the creative juices. Scrapbooking has gone out of this world with 10 million different ways to paste pictures into an album . . . come on how much more constructive would it be to learn something useful like coloring hair?

If the women of America can spend hours learning how to rivet a metal flower into a piece of cardboard so it looks 'purdy', damn it... they can learn what Level their hair color is.
Its just so much more constructive and useful...don't you think? Those stores are so busy that the recession has most likely been a good thing for them, we all need some form of entertainment...it just changes levels - we need escape - need more hobbies, a more economical method of it is most likely the reason, that's OK.
Recently I overheard many women coming together once they get their products from KS and performing the techniques with kicks, giggles and fun. Its a tremendous feeling, accomplishing gorgeous hair color, even if its only covering gray roots. I've caught Killerstranders doing everything from Paint Drips to Bleach n' Tones, to merely covering gray roots -- kudos to everyone - - I'm so proud of all of you. A lot of you are listening, reading, studying and preparing correctly. There is even a substantial amount of you purchasing a doll head or two, to practice on it before going at it on your own hair - brilliant - you will not regret it.

You know, its not only fun ...its an investment... and now > a hobby. What I have discovered is there are a great many of you that do not live near a big city and what that problem holds for so many is not having availability to a qualified hair stylist. That is not quite fair, in my book - just because of where you live - you do not have the same ability to have great hair, undamaged hair, gorgeous color? Nope, that's not cool, nor is it remotely fair. Funny the things you learn from a project like this. I was a Stylist for many years that would not even say the words "home hair color" - ridiculous, was my response for years. What an uneducated creep I was, what a stupid ridiculous comment - at this age I am still making "blunders-of-a-lifetime". Thank the Lord I have the time and the platform to try to make up for it.

So, lets make it a hobby, what fun. . . when your kids get of age - you'll be able to 'color' their hair. Let them see how great your own hair looks -- why wouldn't they let you do theirs? With the popularity of "Highlights are History" and the decline in multiple heavy foil work - there is more of an opportunity for Crib colorists to advance. Foils are difficult - even for the most talented Hair Stylists. Learn the new hair color processes with your best friend or neighbor,even lots of husbands are participating (love it), so you can perform the magic on each other, which is truly the perfect situation, to have a hair color partner >> Swap procedures on each other.

While doing your own hair, the number 1 method consumers choose, reaching around and tackling the back of the head is so much easier when you are doing it on another person as opposed to yourself. Its possible, its just a helluva lot harder.

I had never thought of Hair this way before and wanted to throw it out there to all of you. My mission here is not to take anyone away from qualified Cosmetologists, as a matter of fact - quite the opposite. Once I learned about and totally absorbed the staggering numbers of people coloring at home - I realized this was an entirely different category of consumer . This is aimed at the women that spend 10 billion dollars every year to color their hair at home - anyway and they aren't ever going to a Salon -- period. I salute you and hope we can all merge in the mission to promote:
Hair Color the Hobby: Learn the hobby and perform the magic just as the Pros do.

Spread the word

April 8, 2008

Step-by-Step Demo of Hair Color Technique : Ribbons #5

The Ribbon Technique as demonstrated by Killer Chemist for you to replicate

pink foils =bleach - blond

blue =4BRV- dark brown-red-violet

orange = 6RRV -red-red-violet

basically there are 6 thin slices of color that's it!

After the development time has been met . . .peek & check inside to be sure things look O.K . {may take you a while to know what you're looking for. . . . but start lookin'!}

Take foils out... one at a time and rinse over sink

Rinse . . . Rinse . . Rinse

This is what the 2 first bleached pieces look like . . . and I refer to when I say "frozen butter" ;-/

rinse all the foils clean of product and till water runs clear

Apply INTENSIVE to your hair and let soak in for 20 minutes(min). re adjust's hairs pH - sets color - yada yada

Rinse INTENSIVE out. . . .
the results are right around the corner
Yee Haw
April 6, 2008

Step-by-Step Demo of Hair Color Technique : Ribbons #4

Foil Work and Color Choices in applying Ribbons to Your Hair.
An easy technique applied to your own hair by yourself, I know...I used to do it all the time.

When doing foil work in front of a class we use different color foils for different colors within
the foils.....which I have done here, to make it easier for you to picture. In the

Blue foils = Lightener /bleach & 25 Volume

Pink Foils = Level 4 BRV + 17 Vol.

Orange Foils = Red 6RRV + 20Vol

I always try to use at least 2 - 3 or 4 Levels between each color when you want the color to stand out......the other way if you want it subtle..
This brown circle is the top of the head, I get many comments asking to explain myself in many different methods and ways. So here is another way...
i don't know that you can really see the method to my madness, without this !! Parting is a "key" to Ribbons and Slices

Step-by-Step Demo of Hair Color Technique : Ribbons #2

Page 2 - RIBBONS


Fig.2 With Ronnie being a pretty ordinary Level 7 , we decided to go for some spark, sparkle.....and contrast - so it would be able to be seen in photos for purposes of this Demo! ;-)
From Fig 1 we chose a Level 6 Red Violet
from Fig 2. we chose neutral blond which was accomplished by using bleach ( your friend - remember ??!!)
From the last chart we chose a Level 4 Brown-Red (very dark)

The red : 66/46 + 30 Volume
Most developer ratios are 2:1
One of the big differences in many color lines which also needs to be calculated into the 'quality' of the product. If you are using twice the developer than brand "B" it does not have the same coverage (its more watered down)

Step-by-Step Demo of Hair Color Technique : Ribbons #1

Meet Ronnie . . .Watch Ronnie Rock Ribbons

I've completed another DEMO for you. This time I have torn apart the procedure of "ribbons" on yourself or your friend. I speak frequently about how outdated highlights { 'highlights are history' } are, and if I expect you to change then I need to teach you other techniques > this is the beginning.

The problem I have is with"BLOGGER" [this platform] it is virtually impossible to work with photos ..so please excuse that...nothing I can do about it. I need to move {come on Google; get it together}

Anyway, off we go.

Ronnie Ribbons decided to give herself some ribbons in the front of her hair, wanted to change things up , she has Level 6-7 NB (neutral blonde) hair. Applying color techniques to your own hair presents its own set of problems which every single hair stylist knows - oh too well ... which I plan on addressing as well.

You will want to gather all of your supplies... I highly recommend everyone purchase the Colorists Kit, we have added a couple basics

Use the color charts and photos to determine the look you would like to accomplish, this post is not about "formulating" . . . our mission? to teach "how" to put Ribbons in your hair and what they look like once applied.

Now, make the partings as you see here...which is basically a "VEIL". 2 pie shaped partings on each side of a center part. CLIP each side off, we are only going to do one side, plenty for now.


Next . . . Prep your Foils. I would not use kitchen foils, you must get hair foils, they are a completely different weight and not only prevent slipping, they prevent "leaking" which prevents spots and drips - - unacceptable in my eyes and should be in yours as well.
Prepping Foils:
Fold one edge under (fig.#1) . . . .then fold it again . . smoothing
so it is a DOUBLE fold. Every stylist on the planet has their own little trick for folding and applying foils... mine is from Annie Humphries and the classic Vidal Sassoon Colorist Technique, I doubt too many people would argue with that.

Because of Bloggers strange configuration, which I don't feel like battling today, I am going to put this up in a number of smaller posts today all day long, so stay tuned. . ." !!!

Its long and hopefully educational - so if you have any questions at all and want them answered "LIVE" Today . . .I am right here . .
and will answer them