Hair Color Terms

Hair Color Terminology -  Killerstrands Style 
Below are just 'some' of the many terms used in Hair Coloring" and terms that I hope you will take the time to learn and understand. Why? If you remain going to a Hair Stylist it will help solve numerous problems if you understand the LINGO . . . if you are about to begin your new adventure in becoming a Crib Colorist then these words will help you understand my Posts. Every Industry has their own LINGO that (before this Blog) was not shared with the public.

ALLERGY - skin sensitivity to chemicals (tints, cosmetics) etc. Be sure to take a patch test 24 hours before any first chemical application (perm or color) to determine if you are allergic to products.
BASE - new growth of hair that needs to be re-colored to match rest of the hair. (hair closest to scalp)

VIRGIN HAIR - hair that has never been chemically processed (with haircolor).
SENSITIVITY - skin that reacts to specific chemicals will become irritated and red. After the removal of a chemical solution the redness will disappear.
KILLER 14 QUESTIONS - the 14 questions needed to submit to Killerstrands Group for help with calculating new hair color formula 

PATCH TEST - a skin test taken in order to find out if he/she may use the product (hair color) safely.
STRAND TEST- a color test done on a small hair strand to find out how predetermined color mixture will develop on hair and how fast hair will process this should be performed on every new hair color applied. There are so many instances of people contacting me with a full head of hair the complete wrong color. My first response will always be: "what happened to the STRAND Test ?"'
LEVEL SYSTEM - A universal system of measuring the lightness and darkness of hair strands, which enables there to be a common ground and universal platform of teaching & talking about hair color. All hair color manufacturers use the Level System as a gauge for the design of their hair color charts and colors. A 'must' for understanding in order to understand hair color formulation.

COLOR FILLER - is hair color, that is added into blond to fill-in the 'warmth' missing from being too light. Once Hair is "filled" with the proper 2-3 hair colors you are able to color the final result on top of the filler.
POROSITY - the ability of hair to absorb moisture or liquid solution.
RESISTANT HAIR - hair with a poor porosity which makes it resistant to holding hair color for a long time, there are methods of conquering 'resistant' hair - Killerstrands is the only online source that will teach you how to color resistant hair..
OXIDATION - a chemical reaction between developer and  hair.color solutions.
DEVELOPER - hydrogen peroxide - the cream solution you mix with hair color to create oxidative hair color.
PROCESSING (Development) TIME - the time that is needed to process color fully, evenly and without over-processing (thus damaging) the hair. Killerstrands believes haircolor manufacturers announce shorter times when in actuality longer times produce better and more accurate colors. Hair color "is" the color you "choose",... it will not develop lighter/darker because you leave it on longer that is not how the chemical process works.It stops at the color you chose. 
RETOUCH - tint application to new hair growth or BASE
BLENDING - making the hair color uniform throughout the hair during the color processing.
TEMPORARY COLOR - temporary coloring, that lasts from shampoo to shampoo.
SOAP-CAP - a color solution diluted with conditioner, shampoo or water and applied to the hair like a shampoo to even out (or blend) hair color.

TEMPORARY COLOR - color that lasts from shampoo to shampoo.
SEMI-PERMANENT COLOR - color that lasts 4-6 shampoos
DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR - color that lasts 3-7 weeks 

PERMANENT COLOR - color that lasts 4-10 weeks, remember all color fades. ( which is a good thing I promise you).
TONER - a tint applied to lightened hair producing soft various pastel colors used in double processing application (hair is first lightened and then toned to a desired shade). Toners work to battle various unwanted shade tones, such as brass/gold/orange/reds or whatever tones you personally dislike.
POWDER LIGHTENER (also BLEACH) - a very strong and fast working chemical product used in "off scalp" hair lightening. The strongest lightener in existence for hair - Killerstrands requires ALWAYS using "GLEAM" prior to applying this product, which protects strands from any damage. This method has been practiced for over 11 years with outstanding results.
OIL LIGHTENER (also BLEACH) - a very fast and strong lightening product used in "on scalp" lightening (double process). Killerstrands is the one and only company that makes this product
LOW-LIGHTING - the darkening effect on hair accomplished by using tint darker than your VIRGIN hair color (and foils).
HIGH-LIGHTING - the lightening effect on hair accomplished by using a tint or a lightener - lighter than your virgin hair (plus foils).

TINT BACK - coloring hair "back" to its natural shade.
LIFT - degree of hair lightening by a number of Levels 
OVERLAPPING - a condition that is caused in a color touch-up on any part of previously lightened hair. Overlapping can cause "breakage" when the color being used is either a lightener or bleach. . . done by overlapping lightener on top of another section previously lightened - causes 'overlapping' on one section of hair - one of the main causes of breakage. Once you learn this fact, it will empower you to watch for a hair stylists improper application also   . . .  it will teach YOU not to perform this as a Crib Colorist. Its just a minor point that is never taught in 95% of Hair Schools, which ...if it WAS. . . there would just be so much less breakage caused by Hair Colorists.
VANISH Hair Color REMOVAL SYSTEM: VANISH the worlds only non-bleach, non-peroxide, non-damaging method of hair color removal. Hair color comes out of the hair strand in the exact same method it goes in - molecularly. . . . it shrinks the molecules of hair color so they come out of the hair strand in the same manner in which they went in....which makes the system - - NON-DAMAGING. { if hair is already damaged it will not repair it, it also will not add to the damage - - FYI }
FOIL - aluminum foil used to high-light or low-light hair.
9 comments on "Hair Color Terms "
  1. Silly Question: If I use 10 volume with a 9ash color over high lighted hair, it will not lift my natural (4.5-5) shade right?

    My high lights are faded to an ugly brassy tone, and I have trouble toning it

    1. This is a question that gets asked a lot, because all of the TV commercials and magazine spreads that you receive inaccurate information from,
      all developers will alter the natural hair somewhat - 10 is supposedly DEPOSIT only - but because it deposits - it still alters it a teeny tiny bit . 5 and under you barely

  2. No question is silly, at least not in hair color formulating. If you are having your hair done professionally then you should have your stylist answer that question. He has a better shot at getting it right .... beCAUSE, he has your hair in his hands....I've always said...that is my biggest disadvantage giving formula's - not having your hair in my hands.

  3. When having darker brown hair "highlighted" the hair turned an orangey copper tubing color. Is there any way to "fix" that? The intent and idea I had in mind was to blend some of my new gray hair growth into dark colored hair come in as its own natural highlight. Instead I ended up with this orangey color that I know is going to get more copper tubing color or even more brassy over the summer by the sun and by the highly chlorinated water over the summer. Any suggestions on correction and what I can ask for from stylist or do myself?

  4. u cannot play around with GRAY hair, it just doesn't work like that...
    you must cover the gray first then head to a stylist,
    I am not a fan of highlights, they are just out of date
    in my mind there are many other things you could try.

  5. Im in need of some help. I got my hair colored at the salon and I'm not happy with the highlights. My roots are still very evident. I barely see any bleached strands when i told her i wanted to see them. So what should i buy when i go to sallys? Im already very blonde. I just want to add a few more streaks of blonde to my hair. Mainly where she missed the section where i part my hair everyday. Could you offer any advice or suggestions? Thanks!

  6. Im in need of some help. I got my hair colored at the salon and I'm not happy with the highlights. My roots are still very evident. I barely see any bleached strands when i told her i wanted to see them. So what should i buy when i go to sallys? Im already very blonde. I just want to add a few more streaks of blonde to my hair. Mainly where she missed the section where i part my hair everyday. Could you offer any advice or suggestions? Thanks!

  7. I would suggest never EVER using anything from Sally's , every single problem we hear about stems from the lousy products that store turns out. Please please don't buy anything from there.

  8. HELP!!!! I had a goal to get a pastel lavender hair, I bleached my hair until it was almost white. I applied toner then applied a lavender hair dye. It came out perfect except I left it in for too long and the lavender came out darker than I wanted. I was too impatient and applied hydrogen peroxide on to make the color lighten (worst mistake ever) it turned my hair BLUE! I washed my hair repeatedly for 2 months and it was still blue. I bought a color removal and it turned my hair a lighter blue/green. I did it twice but by the second one, nothing happened. Will I be able to ever take this color out of my hair?


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