August 28, 2013

SEVEN . The 7 Stages of Lightening Hair ( or Why Hair Pulls Gold When Going Blonde!)

To go along with our email Blast about out new Schwarzkopf Blondes that are so beautiful, I wanted to go over the color changes that happen when hair is exposed to a product that is capable of lightening it....such as 
  • Cream Lightener (Bleach)
  • Powder Lightener (Bleach)
  • Highlift Blonde Color and lastly
  • Oil-Bleach  (the KS Kits we carry !)
This is a teaching tool of what happens when hair is lightened.
One of the most important lessons in haircoloring is that the final result depends as much on the "natural contribution" of the hair color as it does on the artificial dyes .................and the 7 Stages of Lightening is a way of expressing that. That means, you know how I continue to harp on the term "DURP" ( Dominant/Underlying/Remaining/Pigment  ??? )........... that is more important when lightening the hair ....than the color you choose is !

It is one of the theories of lightening that Colorists,Stylists & YOU , do not grasp properly.....therefore making it difficult for you to get lightening correct. ....and being as 1 in 4 of you  are interested in being Blonde, we really should try to clarify this subject to you.

The 7 Stages of Blonding/Lightening are the colors that the hair goes through as it is lightening to the desirable Blonde we all it is lightened with either Bleach or High-Lift Blond permanent Color.  Theoretically if lightening could be shown to you. . . . in slow motion . . . . . these are the colors you would see..............
  1. Black
  2. Brown
  3. Red
  4. Red-Gold
  5. Gold
  6. Yellow
  7. Pale Yellow
When the hair is exposed to a Lightening product such as bleach or highlift..............its Black and Brown Pigments are the first to begin to break down or oxidize.

Then the Red and Gold pigments gradually oxidize ( this is the most stubborn stage and why hair gets stuck at GOLD or BLOrange so damn often).

The Yellow and Pale Yellow stages are simply lighter and lighter versions of Gold.

When Natural pigment oxidizes in the Sun 'naturally' lightens similarly. ....getting stuck at the same stages the longest.....

Notice 5 of the 7 stages have to do with Red 


                 and Gold

This is due to the tenacity of these colors in the hair. It takes longer to eliminate RED and even longer to eliminate GOLD.....


we say that lightening creates warmth
the natural warmth of the hair is exposed when the hair is lightened
that's why Violet & ash formula's are used so often to order to counter balance that natural warmth that lightening creates. 

I'm so pleased with the new Schwarzkopf line for Blondes to help in this area....the dash  -1 colors.....such as 12-1, 10-1, even 8-1 etc....will all help so much in counter-balancing the Blorange/Gold you will experience they are purple & blue based.

the 1 stands for Cendre means it is both: Blue & Violet based
(which means it will fight both orange, gold, brass & yellow)

The Color Chart and how the system works is now in the store - please check it out if you are a blond or want to be one!                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  

August 27, 2013

Whoops I Have Forgotten 1 Very Important Color Rule - LATELY

I don't know where my head 
has been lately
remember this very important 
fore-front Rule about Hair Coloring:

. . . . . . . . .
48 - 72 HRS.

There are numerous advantages to this
completely unique to my method of Coloring Hair ............
that I would send home with clients
such as:

  • longer lasting color
  • shinier color
  • longer gray coverage
  • fewer touch-ups per year
  • bolder, more vibrant color
  • less fading
  • the grand texture one receives from color, lasts longer.....

and finally be sure to finish off your hair color with 10 minutes to 120 minutes or even overnight application of our little trick-in-a-jar called INTENSIVE:

 Coming Soon the New Schwartzkopf Swatch Color Chart on the Store's web site ! Yahooey
August 13, 2013

Developing the Developer You Should Use?

     Developer strength is decided by how much "lightening" is required in your formula
Higher Volumes are used for higher lift. If you are not lifting but staying at the same Level the always standard 20 volume is what used to be the norm, but now with so many zillions of Volumes, my suggestion for staying the same is use anywhere from 3 Volume to 20 Volume....(except depending on the porosity and texture of the hair, some get 2 Levels of lift from 20 Volume. I do! My porosity is such that color takes quick so I get a solid 2 levels of lift out of 20 Volume, but I finally started to have a couple little peek-a-boo grays....and......what is the rules about which developer to use with gray hair?

To determine how many Levels you ARE Lifting your current natural base Level to your "DESIRED" Level. The difference between the 2 is the levels you are lifting.....make sense?
 Don't let this trip you up....Desired Level minus natural level is the numbers of levels you are lifting or:

  All these lovely rules are always made on a person with Virgin Hair - HAIR THAT HAS NEVER BEEN COLORED AND WE ALL KNOW THAT DOESN'T EXIST ANYMORE ! ! ! ! and if you ask me, they are so ancient - we shouldn't even talk about them anymore...........

But, then I realize, there has to be a starting point and for this scenario. . . . VIRGIN HAIR, is it !!           
1 level of lift w/ 10 Volume
2 Levels of  Lift w/ 20 Volume  
3-4 Levels of Lift w/ 30 Volume 
4-5 Levels of lift w/ 40 Volume  

With most products and most hair 20 Volume would get you from a Level 5 to a Level 7         But Texture, condition & porosity should be considered !

There are certain products ( Like the Killerstrands OIL BLEACH KIT as an example)  that only need 20 Volume....................BECAUSE it rely's on higher levels of ammonia or MEA in the tint or Bleaching Cream to create additional lift.Double the DESIRED Level and subtract the Natural Level to determine the Level of Tint to use when lifting.

/the Key to choosing the tight developer for gray coverage is to select thehlowest Volume capable of softening the cuticle usually 15 or 20 Volume. Typically Gray hair has a wiry texture ....which has a tough....compact cuticle.

The more resistant the gray and the coarser the gray, the harder it is to penetrate -- too weak a developer won't soften it, and when maximum deposit is needed, high Volume's have to be avoided as well. Higher than 20 Volume in almost every single system will reduce the deposit...and that pesky gray color will come creeping back into your life.

ALWAYS ALWAYS, begin applying the mixed color + developer to area that has the grayest of gray hairs..............FIRST.  PLUS: do NOT be stingy with the color, pile it on there.....but
the saying is..........."Really Soak But Don't Choke"
Killer Chemist

August 8, 2013

HOT RIGHT NOW ! Top Trends, the lust-haves and the latest hair biz news...

The Cut we are loving.....

a Bob
a blunt fringe
a deeply darkly (True Blood-y)  
Cashmere Chocolate MATT Brown
Schwartzkopf's IGORA/ROYAL  
Permanent Hair Color 
4-0 + 4-63

Pastel Hair Color
Inspired by the fact that its nearly impossible to get and keep!

extreme ... far ... side-parting: all over the catwalks there are partings on the far sides of all women and also men, i just love it when hairstyles become so androgynous . WE hav a lot of combs, I notice in the public.......... people don't purchase or use combs much. Its how we live in PRO hair care... for everything moving hair around, parting, coloring, blonding - everything. I encourage all of you to purchase and begin using a comb in all aspects of your hair care. 

Splurge on an Organic/Luxury shampoo.........double luxury and a work of ART as far as the look of the packaging

        Hydrate & Conquer Shampoo
        Maintain the Mane Shampoo
Killerstrands Top Organic Shampoo, smells like Heaven w/ a tad of honey                  

August 7, 2013

The Color Wheel is a World Of Hair Color Solutions!

A lot of you have continued to have problems . . . . .understanding and conquering your problems with DURP. Which is why I am going to bring you another Bloggers's interpretation of the subject, maybe hearing it from a different POV it will help. Please ask questions at the end if you still don't understand - 

NO QUESTION IS A BAD QUESTION . . . please ask them in the group that is what it is there for!

World of Color

The Color Wheel  

The color wheel, sometimes called the color star or circle,is an important tool used to manipulate color. (we have a hair related Color Wheel that you can purchase for a reasonable price )... As the subtractive color model is being used here, the primary colors are cyan, magenta and yellow.....or Blue-Red & Yellow. However, as pure cyan and magenta are difficult to achieve, the nearest colors, blue and red, are used. Most artists adopt this color palette, with red, yellow and blue as the primary colors.By combining these primary colors, the secondary colors become green (blue + yellow), orange (red + yellow) and violet (red + blue). 

These can be arranged in a six-segment circle to form the color wheel .......see the image  -----When  exactly the same intensity of color is combined from the opposite side in the color wheel, they cancel each other out. Different strengths of color intensity will have a more subtle effect. So as you see in this graphic the purple and yellow are moving to the middle - where it is WHITE or they have cancelled each other OUT !   For example, adding violet to a predominantly yellow tone creates a mix of color that

absorbs the yellow wave-length of the light spectrum. 

This is particularly useful to the hairdresser and is often referred to as a complementary color.
 indicated on the left (green, blue, violet) are referred to as secondary colors ors on the right   (yellow, orange, red) are called 
The Color Wheel in Modern Hairdressing
The color wheel has evolved with modern hairdressing practice in order to fit in with the color systems and terminology in use today. To this end, different names are used for some of the colors.
fashion colors. The latter are brighter, glossier and more popular in today's fashions. So far, neutral colours have not been discussed. These include all the tones that are considered natural hair colours. Natural hair colour is a mix of chromatic colour (pure colours found within the colour wheel) and achromatic colour (black, white and the resulting grey tones). Within the colour wheel model neutral colours theoretically exist at the centre of the wheel.

The Color Wheel in Modern Hair Coloring

The color wheel has evolved with modern hair styling practice in order to fit in with the color systems and terminology in use today. To this end, different names are used for some of the colors.

 These are more in keeping with the actual result of adding, for example, a blue tone to the hair.
The result in this case would be a toned-down matt finish, not bright blue hair! 

Yellow = Gold
Orange = Copper
Red/Purple = Violet
Blue/Olive/Green = Matt

So what Sarah and I are trying to do get you all the base colors of the hair color lines we carry because if you can find a color or Toner with the OPPOSITE color of the one that is giving you the hard a Blue (or Cyan) Base for a Blorange tone, you would have your solution to the recently vey famous BLORANGE problems many of you are having. I am very excited with all the new Schwartzkopf Hair Colors we have and are acquiring in the near future.

Won't that be nice ?

Check out these New hair colors AND these Highlift Blondes PLUS  the E-O is a Blond Booster which you can add to the highlift for 1 additional Level of Lift of the hair  !

Be sure to join our Group so you may begin learning how to care for your own hair's health and hair's color.........

We have a whole new section added to the store regarding the new BLONDES from them. 
 This is the first of some new unique Hair Colors and I have used them personally and am thoroughly impressed 

Schwartzkopf's colors are completely and utterly 
TO  DIE  FOR  .  .  .  .

August 4, 2013

Why ECOLOR is Preying On The Women Of America AND their Hair Color ! !


I have started to write this Post many times but then delete it when I feel like I am lowering myself to these, 2 dingbat owners Level of acting, by writing about them. But I have to listen to person after person complain about their service....or should I say disservice. I finally remembered why I started this business to begin with and that was to help the public when I thought someone was doing them wrong ...that has to do with their hair color or the health of their hair. . . and this falls into that category.

 So its time to talk about them. 2 Internet men that sold a Social networking site were looking for their next business to make a fortune on and that's who started the website: ECOLOR and someone needs to tell the public the truth.  I have had 1 too many people write me this week about their hair color being ruined by going to the site, their site is about 1/4 step worse than box color and 2 steps worse than Sally's and we all know how bad that is.  

How do I know this?

They asked me to work for them many years ago at the beginning to just "be the face'' - which I didn't get the meaning of right away so we talked back and forth and then finally set up a meeting.....(which never happened).
 These 2 Internet Hackers decided this is what they wanted their next business to be and they called me up 5-6 years ago when they were starting it up, Its base is about 40 miles from me here in L.A. next to UCLA - college dropouts....seems to be who used to start these businesses up.

At first it sounded -  good for them and good for me.  It was early in the professional hair business being talked about by me openly on the Internet. To be honest I feel they got a lot of their information from my site. But I have seen lots of my info all around the web - - for years forever...I have given up caring.
They wanted me to be the "face" for ESALON and then they would just do what they want......they wouldn't take any advice ....nor pay for my services. They just wanted my photo & name on their website......and it wasn't until the day I was getting ready to meet with them. . . . did they say "Oh we don't want to pay you, we thought you would be happy to just be the 'face' of our business.
 That was the ultimate insult - to me, are you kidding me ?? ! ! I asked them what they were going to do for hair color, because its one thing to claim you had made an internet program to pick out hair color (which was a hilarious idea to me) . As we all see by answering the Killer14 Questions and then still needing my help ! But then a whole other idea to claim you were making your own hair color. Making your own hair color is no small affair, they were purchasing some off-label color ALREADY MADE ! ! !  I asked them about the hair color they were going to use and he said "oh that doesn't matter" and that is when everything changed for me. I didn't even want to explain that huge -- misunderstood concept...because if he thought the problem was in just not having a computer SOFTWARE program, he was sadly mistaken.
 Boxed Hair Color is a "Computer Program Hair Color" (dingbat!)
If he was just going to use the same crappy made hair color like Sallys and the Boxed Hair Color companies . . . . to this day I am completely shocked he is still even on the web.

But no one but me really writes about the technical part of hair color with you, the public, in mind.
Watching out for you and your hair's health. You can make up your own mind but at least you have the true story of what even looks like a "SHADY BUSINESS" on the outside!

Look at it now, now they have a "cook" recommending their service.....Rachel Ray loves their hair color ( after a huge representation payment)  

Why would a Cook be a great person to back a Coloring Service?

That would be like me recommending restaurants to you........  which I would Never in a million years do that. That is not my expertise....what is wrong with these guys..??? 

 They have no Colorists Represented on their site and I am horrified for those of you who go there....its like going to Sally's Blind-Folded...Please be careful.