Getting Comfortable with 'Developer' While Coloring your Hair

Wow, I just did a small Search on hair and hair chemistry and cannot believe the amount of other sites there are out there now. I'm surprised how many of you ask me to continue to write....and encourage me to "keep going" admittedly they are not like KIller Strands but there are other sources, for the longest time, I was it. You don't abandon me and I won't abandon YOU !!! Be very very careful who you listen to, I saw 2 companies who write "supposed Blogs" that are tied to poor quality products, its kind of funny....really.  You will figure it out.....bad products word-of-mouth spreads quickly.


You have to learn to love Developer (peroxide) and not be afraid of it, and please please don't be so headstrong about which developer you ''ONLY'' want to use.  There just needs to be more education before you decide that you want this certain Volume, yet can't explain why. If you can explain 'why' and it follows the rules of hair coloring.....then fine use it. But please, many of you are very set on the Volume of Developer you want without any education.....or the knowledge of why that is your choice -  it needs to be really thought about for a better result. Remember.....I am on YOUR SIDE here !  So many of you are just Hell bent on not using anything higher than 20 Volume ( I have at least 8 of you with this same issue right now, so please don't think its "YOU".....what it is....is so funny that I have so many of you at the same time with the same misguided direction about Developer. All of you want to be a beautiful Blond, BUT won't use anything higher than 20 Volume.....a couple of you splurged and tried 30 Volume which......... still......... DID  NOT   WORK!

                                   Hydrogen peroxide (developer) H2O2 is 
                    responsible for oxidation (NH3 or ammonia + H2O2 = oxidation)

It makes the color permanent and MUST be present for the color to lift and develop, and it makes the color oxidize. First, it reduces (or lifts) the natural pigments (melanin) to reach the desired Target Level.  H2O2 is actually (water) with an extra molecule of O - oxygen .... something I would tell my clients all the time, to calm them when talking about developers. If its only 1 molecule away from water, really............could it be that bad? Oxygen is what creates the lift and development of color in the hair. Oxygen ! Nothing bad like so many of you think ;) .

             The higher the percentage of oxygen in peroxide 
                      the more lift you can achieve... "o-x-y-g-e-n" !

Most Level System colors operate with a range of developers from 5-40 Volume- although lately you can pretty much purchase any # Volume of developer. 

• 5 to 13 Volume is for DEPOSIT ONLY
• 20 Volume for the same level or one Level of Lift
• 30 Volume for 2-3 Level s of Lift &
• 40 Volume for 3-4 Levels of Lift  !

Although Volumes vary among the different product lines, you will notice some of the smarter lines adding moisturizers/conditioners/vitamins....etc. to their formulations of Developer to help condition the hair the one and only time the hair strand is open and able to be helped from the inside ....OUT!

As oxidation occurs, lift begins, which is the removal of the natural pigment (melanin) in the hair. Deposit also begins (at the same time ---> impressive don't you think)....Deposit is a process in which the intermediary color molecules begin joining or locking together to form a NEW color pigment combinations in the hair. With the aid of the H2O2 these molecules attract one another and make such large combinations that they become too large to exit the hair strand/shaft and are actually  are trapped inside. The lift and the deposit occur simultaneously!

Even Stylists think it is the H2O2 that causes the cuticle to open. The H2O2 acts as a buffer for the ammonia in color.  Its pH is actually 2.5 to 4.5. Only when its released through oxidation....does it begin to eliminate pigment.

The Volume of the Developer, along with the amount of ammonia in the color is what determines the lifting action. When a Color product is mixed with Developer, the H2O2 achieves a Working Volume (WV). WV is the actual volume of the diluted formula. Most Color Lines use equal parts to formulate.

                                              For example:
                                                2- oz. Color
                                             + 2- oz H2O2

So if using 20 Volume H2O2, this formula would have a working volume of 10Volume. As the Volume of the developer increases, so does the WV. 

I have tried over and over to make this one sentence crystal Clear, but I have failed. Please remember this, because nothing is more true about Developer than this statement:

The Volume of a Developer does not determine how strong it is, but merely how long it will lift. Stabilized H2O2 is CONTROLLED lifting power: the higher the Volume , the more the 'lift'. (what does "lift' mean? removing, subtracting or lightening color from the hair.

Peroxide + ammonia = Lift & Development of Color

During coloring the H2O2 is converted to water and oxygen

• water drives the pigment into the hair
• oxygen develops pigments 

become friends with the developer needed to achieve the color you desire, especially you Blondes !

Developer, Developer.......: Which Hair Color Developer Shall We Use???

Developer has always taken a 2nd seat to its big brother HAIR COLOR in this whole process, when actually it is just AS important as! 

I wanted to add a little something to this previous post....a lot of you think that 40 Volume is stronger than 20 Volume .If you look at the ingredient label on a 10 Volume and on a 40 Volume they both will say the exact same thing : H2O2 or hydrogen Peroxide. What is different in these various developers is "time" not strength. To explain that further check this next section out :
 
10Volume - 1/2 Level  LIFT
20Volume - 1 Level.....LIFT
30 Volume - 2-3 Levels LIFT
40 Volume - 3-4 Levels LIFT

the Volume doesn't stand for strength it stands for time.........
Do you cook? or bake?
you know how you make a dinner and try to have everything done at the same time so you can all sit down to a meal at 1 time and eat ? Its sort of that same theory....

That's kind of what various developers are for.......
When I start a head of highlights (for example) I will begin using lightener with 20 Volume half way through I will make up another batch of lightener and developer only this one will have 30 or most times 40 Volume and do the remaining hair with that) - that will make it so when we go to the shampoo bowl and rinse the color out ALL THE COLOR WILL BE EVEN, many times Colorists won't do that and YOU end up with 2 different colors .Its not that 40-Volume is stronger - its "TIME" based 40 volume works twice as fast in minutes not in strength. Don't be afraid to use the proper developer, when you do your hair color will come out more correctly. 

I cannot say it enough when you are trying to perfect your formula : STRAND TEST ! Never test a formula on your entire head of hair when it is so easy to do strand tests. We even make Kits, if you purchase over $50.00 you may request 1-2 complimentary Kits !

Educating you how to color hair Professionally, learning to deal with developers is very important as it is the key to perfect & even color, color that lasts a long time and most importantly gives you the exact color you desire with no DURP ! It can be done and it can be done when you learn how to deal with H2O2

There are many things that effect which developer one should use and I will write on it until I feel I have covered it enough for you. Please ask questions here or join our group if you plan on becoming a customer of our store.( We carry a super wide variety of Developers BECAUSE I feel they are so very important.) 

5 years ago there were 4 developer strengths: 

1. 10 Volume 
2. 20 Volume
3. 30 Volume
4. 40 Volume

This is what we have now:

1. 3 Volume
2. 5 Volume
3. 6 Volume
4. 7 Volume
5. 9 Volume
6. 10 Volume
7. 13 Volume
8. 15 Volume
9. 17 Volume
10. 20 Volume
11. 25 Volume
12. 30 Volume
13. 40 Volume
14. 50 Volume...............and now we carry the "Violet Tinted Developers (to prevent Brass, Blorange & Gold in Blonde's!) in 3 levels
15. 20 Volume/violet
16. 30 Volume/violet
17. 40 Volume/violet

I will say that I do enjoy having that selection now as it now handles everything and anything a Colorist could want to do. I have no problem using different brand developers with different hair color's, I suppose it is a personal selection as to which way you go but...I prefer the most moisturized, many have oils in them now...seems like someone has been listening to my ideas. Or maybe its just a dream. ! ! !
                           
  TEXTURE
Hair texture is determined by the diameter of the individual hair strand. Large,medium, and small diameter hair strands translate into coarse, medium and fine hair textures, respectively. Melanin is distributed differently within the different textures. The melanin granules in fine hair are grouped more tightly, so the hair takes color faster and can look darker. Medium textured hair has an average response to hair color product and finally coarse-textured hair has a larger diameter and can take longer to process. 

                        Therefore............
FINE HAIR: takes color faster
MEDIUM HAIR: takes color at an average amount of time
COARSE HAIR: takes longer to penetrate so therefore color's slower 

DENSITY............Another aspect that plays a role in hair coloring/developer, you must remember is density, which is the numbers of hair per square inch......... which can range from thick to thin. Density matters as it affects 'coverage'. If your hair is dense that means it is difficult for that liquid (hair color & developer combined) to weave its way through the individual hairs. 

Remember all our recent conversations about using a Tint Brush versus a Bottle?  { WELL THIS IS EXACTLY THE REASON FOR THAT ! }. Dense hair needs a brush,ALWAYS. other wise there will be uneven waves of color throughout the hair - make sense??!. 

You would always want to use the lowest Volume of Developer possible [ that works for your particular procedure of course...] and there are "lighter or more liquidy developers which I would suggest to use - - if you do have dense hair. For those with average to thin hair I still would advise to use the developer with the most conditioners, the most moisturizers ,etc.. as possible - use our new SPRUSH. they really are worth it.


POROSITY
Porosity is the ability to absorb liquid, porous hair accepts hair color faster and permits darker color than less porous hair. There are different degrees of porosity.....
low porosity: the cuticle is tight>the hair is resistant. which means it is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate & requires a longer processing time. an example of resistant hair ? Gray hair.
average porosity: cuticle is slightly raised, hair is normal and processes in average time.
high porosity: cuticle is lifted;hair is over porous and the hair takes color very quickly <> color also fades quickly

So this is the beginning of an in depth study on developers ( although you can only go so far)...............but see what is funny this graphic below was made 7 years ago and that was the total extent of developer Volumes we carried   ! ! ! !

More coming on this

Developing the Developer You Should Use?

     Developer strength is decided by how much "lightening" is required in your formula

Higher Volumes are used for higher lift. If you are not lifting but staying at the same Level the always standard 20 volume is what used to be the norm, but now with so many zillions of Volumes, my suggestion for staying the same is use anywhere from 3 Volume to 20 Volume....(except depending on the porosity and texture of the hair, some get 2 Levels of lift from 20 Volume. I do! My porosity is such that color takes quick so I get a solid 2 levels of lift out of 20 Volume, but I finally started to have a couple little peek-a-boo grays....and......what is the rules about which developer to use with gray hair?

To determine how many Levels you ARE Lifting ...compare your current natural base Level to your "DESIRED" Level. The difference between the 2 is the levels you are lifting.....make sense?
 Don't let this trip you up....Desired Level minus natural level is the numbers of levels you are lifting or:

DESIRED LEVEL(MINUS) NATURAL LEVEL = Levels of LIFT
  All these lovely rules are always made on a person with Virgin Hair - HAIR THAT HAS NEVER BEEN COLORED AND WE ALL KNOW THAT DOESN'T EXIST ANYMORE ! ! ! ! and if you ask me, they are so ancient - we shouldn't even talk about them anymore...........

But, then I realize, there has to be a starting point and for this scenario. . . . VIRGIN HAIR, is it !!           

  

1 level of lift w/ 10 Volume

2 Levels of  Lift w/ 20 Volume  

3-4 Levels of Lift w/ 30 Volume 

................and

4-5 Levels of lift w/ 40 Volume  

With most products and most hair 20 Volume would get you from a Level 5 to a Level 7         But Texture, condition & porosity should be considered !

There are certain products ( Like the Killerstrands OIL BLEACH KIT as an example)  that only need 20 Volume....................BECAUSE it rely's on higher levels of ammonia or MEA in the tint or Bleaching Cream to create additional lift.Double the DESIRED Level and subtract the Natural Level to determine the Level of Tint to use when lifting.

/the Key to choosing the tight developer for gray coverage is to select thehlowest Volume capable of softening the cuticle usually 15 or 20 Volume. Typically Gray hair has a wiry texture ....which has a tough....compact cuticle.

The more resistant the gray and the coarser the gray, the harder it is to penetrate -- too weak a developer won't soften it, and when maximum deposit is needed, high Volume's have to be avoided as well. Higher than 20 Volume in almost every single system will reduce the deposit...and that pesky gray color will come creeping back into your life.

ALWAYS ALWAYS, begin applying the mixed color + developer to area that has the grayest of gray hairs..............FIRST.  PLUS: do NOT be stingy with the color, pile it on there.....but

the saying is..........."Really Soak But Don't Choke"

.liuo

Killer Chemist