The Results of Various Toners & How They Work ?

This is the single most common email question/subject I receive and I hope writing a Post about the results of various Toners might help many of you understand the answer.

This answer has 2 separate answers.............. 1 answer would not cover the whole topic. Remember whenever using ANY developer and yes...I mean "ANY"....If you have virgin hair anywhere on your head, that hair will show a "line-of-demarcation" using any Toners or Demi-Permanent Hair Color



 (1)PREVIOUSLY COLORED HAIR
 ( Virgin hair or hair that has never been colored is below) 
 

So it doesn't matter what Volume it is...........USING DEVELOPER CREATES A LINE OF DEMARCATION

(the only exception: if you have Level 10 or lighter) 

 

DURP means : Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment - which is the annoying color that pops up in almost every single person's hair when lightening. Some of you don't have any DURP at all - but you are few and far between. 
Most of you have tried lightening your hair at some point, that is just a fact I know from talking to so many of you. When you lighten the hair -- the DURP pops out. It is extremely difficult to get rid of by covering it up.
Does DURP only show if you lighten the hair? NO some people have it naturally.

The name of the Tool we have to cover up annoying DURP - is called: "TONER"

Personally my #1 favorite tool on blondes is to apply the lightener 1 more time and lighten it past the brass/gold stage.That way Toners are not necessary, which I feel is why my clientele was so large and grew so quickly.When you can turn out brass-free blondes, the word begins to spread.
I feel many of you Colorists out there are afraid to leave the lightener on long enough or you don't apply enough applications.                                               
 
First of All ..........understand this:

Definition of a Toner -- is any hair color used to deal with the DURP (brass/gold/blorange) leftover from lightening hair. Now this Toner can be a hair color that is used with Developer....and that Developer can be anywhere from 3Volume to 18Volume to create that color into being a Toner as:

 

-- -- -- Developers BELOW 20 Volume theoretically don't    lighten the hair

They don't lighten but they DO leave a line of demarcation.
So it IS really lightening. Because if you have ever seen it, it isn't a darkening line, it IS a line of demarcation though.

To be perfectly honest it can also be any Level and ANY COLOR Toner, for example : ....Asians usually have problems with Red in their dark hair when lightening a little 

 
so.............therefore one can use a Green Based Toner (Darkest Brown ASH in some lines) to conquer that problem which could be as dark as a  Level 3. So Toners are not just for blondes. Toners are for ANY hair color needing to deal with whatever color DURP is in your hair color.

I have Level 8 copper hair, so how does a redhead deal with this? My DURP is GOLD, yes gold is part of copper but many times the hair color is wayyyy too gold. So I look for a Level 8 Red Neutral instead of Level 8 Red-Gold like so many people do. I have tried every single type of Toner in my life and career. 

• LOW - 3Volume Developer 
• 18 Volume Toner.....                                                                     
• Color Touch in 9/16 - it has violet so it works a tiny bit on the gold, but there is no Toner that lasts for 4-6 weeks so it is a never ending game of re-touching.
• I have found that using a Toner even a super low Volume, just is a pain-in-the-ass and never lasts, and I don't know about you, but my GOLD DURP is on my lengths, so to apply hair color on my lengths (my hair is past my bra strap), is difficult to do to oneself That is a lot of hair.
• I have decided on using BOOST & BURST, I have been using Boost & BURST for 15 years, they just were bottles in my shower with no name.
• The Toner I have on my own hair is why many years ago I decided to Shampoo "IN" and Conditioner "IN" my Toner. I find it is the easiest & gives me the most effective result. I LOVE how my hair feels right after.....I truly do. My color is rich there is ZERO Gold. I find this way to be the easiest OVERALL method, especially with long hair.
•  I do it once a week, sometimes I do it in the sink while cleaning or doing laundry, or I will do it in the shower. Sometimes I will apply the shampoo without water at first then add in a little water and shampoo.  Shampoo the hair  then leave in for 5 minutes -- RINSE lightly -- towel dry the hair... -- Apply Conditioner for 10 minutes - while shaving & doing everything else. Rinse lightly and poof it looks superb, it really does - I use Killer Copper 2. It takes less time than breaking out hair color and it lasts a lot longer. Another advantage? If I decide to lighten my hair a Level or 2 (in the Spring) all I have to do is stop using it....use regular shampoo and POOF in a week or two -- its gone and there is NO LINE OF DEMARCATION
• That is how BOOST & BURST were created and sold over the last 1 1/2 year ago...Its why we have H.Ash Brown, for those with Red DURP................Violet Pilot for those with Brass................Breaking Bad Blue for those with BLOrange ...............Wink.Perry.Wink for those with Gold/Brass..............we should have a color for every single color DURP there is.
• I've never really written a Post about BOOST AND BURST and explained things so that is my mistake and I am sorry.

 Prince, Violet Pilot & PERP all work wonders on brass & Gold

(2) VIRGIN HAIR ...hair that has never been colored.

•  Virgin hair will ALWAYS get a line of demarcation, when a Toner using ANY Volume Developer. Yep, even 2 Volume will leave a line of demarcation. In other words, you will see a line on the never colored hair.
• The only Toner you may use on Virgin hair with highlights and not have it color the virgin hair is BOOST & BURST, which is semi-permanent hair color I'm afraid. I know all of these answers are probably not what you wanted to hear, but they are in fact THE TRUTH 
• A toner without the use of a Developer --- ANY developer is the only way you will not color the rest of the hair. Think about it..............why would it only color the lightened pieces? What special thing is mixed in so it will not color the rest of the hair?
• NOTHING
• I'm sorry, BOOST & BURST are your best selection .  Still.
  
  
  

Breaking Bad Blue works wonders on Gold/Blorange

3 TerrificTricks From Tube To Application - Drop Your Tint Brushes !

Recently it hit me that I have not efficiently - if ever -  gone over a couple of these very small subjects that truly DO make a difference in the hair coloring process. They are EXTREMELY important and I think many of you don't even realize it is something that helps the entire process AND your hair color results.
This Blog is so old and there are so many Posts sometimes I cannot find any history of a subject....so if you read this and/or already knew it.....just know that refresher points are ALWAYS excellent in the education of Hair Color. Hearing tough to understand points explained in different ways - helps you understand better as well. So, onward and upward......all of these points will very probably ruin your hair color results and they are little tricks

1st.......CAP YOUR DEVELOPER
When you either get your small bottle of developer or litre, just remember this very important fact : the liquid that is in that bottle, which is what makes the magic work in the art of hair coloring, can lose its 'punch' (I like to call it). Or in other words there is nothing more important than keeping the top on that bottle - (securely) otherwise it will lose its ability to work to its potential. A handful of you will sometimes contact me with pics of your 'failed' hair color, when according to all facts you have given me, it should have worked just fine. This is one option (sometimes right off the bat I don't think of) So I am trying to implant it into my brain as well as yours ! I constantly forget to go over these 3 aspects which are all very powerful ESPECIALLY if you have not done all 3 of them, let alone just neglected ONE!   
BUT, truly this one little tiny mistake can ruin your entire color application. When the 'air' hits Developer its strength (which is needed) dissipates.
SO: Keep Your Top TIGHT at all times, I panic if I notice it off for 20 seconds, yep its that important. These items are top quality so keep them in top shape for top results! Your developer should only be in the air without mixing for less than a minute any more than that and you are risking the quality of your results and its potency!
 
2nd..... RATIO OF HAIR COLOR TO DEVELOPER
Now here is another topic that would completely ruin your hair color results ..... getting the "ratio" wrong. Every single hair color on planet earth has a certain ratio of color TO developer. Can I tell you all of them right here, right now? No, I only have memorized the best hair color on planet earth : Wella Professional Line. Every single line of hair color has their RATIO either on the insert OR the directions ( which on professional hair color was : ON THE INSIDE OF THE BOX. Which is a little secret to keep the public from finding the recommendations by the company on Ratio/ processing times, etc...! Since many of peoples complaints about ''incompetent Hair Stylists'' have become so widespread & public with the rise of the INTERNET and social media I feel the company's are now putting enclosures in almost all professional hair color. But, still......if you don't read the enclosures OR the inside of the box you will not know what the ratio of Developer TO color is. Now, what am I talking about you ask??? I hope you all know, but if not.....here is another reason your hair color might be turning out weird colors when it should be turning out beautiful.  Ratios will look like this:

• 1:1.....1 part Color to 1 part Developer (for ex:1 oz.hair color mixed w/ 1oz. developer.
• 1:2..... 1 part color to 2 parts Developer (for ex.1oz.hair color mixed w/ 2oz. developer - EVERY Level 12 or High-lift Blonde is this ratio using 40 Volume)
• 1:1.5... 1 part Color to 1.5 parts Developer (ex: 1oz. Color mixed w/ 1 1/2 oz. developer - some rare colors use this ratio....a lot of powder bleaches use this ratio. So ALWAYS - ALWAYS - ALWAYS find out what the ratio is on the color you are using.

If you use too much developer ( for lack of a better term) it waters down your hair color, so you won't get as brilliant of color, it will NOT cover gray as well, it will fade quicker, the shine will not be as brilliant................need I say more? 
If you don't use enough , if you are going for blonde and you only use 1:1 and don't use 40Volume

The better hair colors I have found through my own personal use is that when the ratio is 1:1 You have richer - more brilliant and better coverage hair color. So, stop now and check your box on whatever you are using ....... all of Wella's lines are 1:1 EXCEPT Color Touch which is their DEMI Color, which I have found helps with shine and sheerness which is what Demi's should do in my opinion.

The 1:2 ratio on permanent line is usually the lower quality lines unless there is some secret line I don't know about.....which there could be. My absolute favorite line which died when the owner died........ RENBOW.......which was 1:1 which is where I learned what high quality hair care was.

3rd TRICK: MIX Color PRIOR to adding Developer : Now the very last little trick which is also what will make a difference in your hair color result is when you are using multiple colors WITHIN a single color line - THE WAY IT IS MIXED - TRULY DOES MATTER. 

Lets use one of the most common hair color formula's in Wella's Koleston Perfect line for a Level 6 - light brown hair with 20% Gray :
(remember Wella runs 1 full level darker than all other lines or than the color chart appears)...so the formula would be:
7/0N
+
7/2M
+
7/7B.....................+ 20 Volume


This is how pro-hair color is made to be used. The "neutral" or the " /0 " is used to cover gray. The MATT color which is the 7/2 is made to fight gold/ Blorange type tones and the 7/7Beige - Gives the mixture a wonderful Brown Tone. This is how these lines are designed to be used. It doesn't matter that you are using 3 tubes.....just use a 1/2 ounce of each color - which . . . once it is mixed with developer should be more than enough to do your base.  Then you will have this for 2-3 sometimes even 4 more base applications !
But what this point is............is how you mix these 3 colors. {I will always always encourage you to purchase a scale...... I find the best scales are MY Weigh's they last forever.}
So MEASURE your color into your tint bowl, then BE SURE TO MIX IT TOGETHER FIRST, so the raw color is mixed together FIRST. Then & only then, add the developer. 

A F T E R    T H E    C O L O R    I S   M I X E D   T O G E T H E R   F I R S T , then add the developer


Preferably measure developer as well if you are going to use our measure cups, then use them for both the color & the developer.

Now those are my 3 most important oddball rules that everyone should apply every single time they mix up their hair color to apply at home !  

love to all of you, you have been so heartwarming this month, its all so very much appreciated


                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  

Hair Color HEADS To the Stratosphere : Alkali, Hydrogen Peroxide & Ammonia

As much as no one wants to talk about the technical part regarding Hair color, I want you to make yourself read it and re-read it, a light-bulb will come on I promise you. My first career couldn't have been farther away from being a Hair Colorist ( professional athlete) ...........therefore if I can learn this crap..so can you ! ! ! ;)

THE  EFFECTS  OF  Ammonia  &  HYDROGEN  PEROXIDE

Hydrogen peroxide alone will not lighten hair easily; it alone is not a decolorizer because of its acidic pH level. It must be combined with an alkaline source to produce a chemical reaction with the color dye and the pigment in the hair strands.

The most common alkaline agent used in hair.coloring products is ammonia.

In addition to maintaining stability of the color tint , ammonia swells the hair strand, which helps the dye molecule penetrate the cuticle and cortex layers. Ammonia also acts as a catalyst to activate hydrogen peroxide, which helps the dye molecules to couple and form.

Hydrogen peroxide in combination with ammonia will break some of the internal disulphide bonds found in the cortex of the hair.Now this is what a lot of people will ask me about...."Does bleach break the disulphide bonds in hair?" .......and to be honest I have to tell them YES. But if one uses Gleam prior to coloring that little process and application alone will help prevent those breaks....TRULY and that is because the lipids soak into the hair strands.

This IS IMPORTANT:....

Di-sulfide bonds are responsible for hair's stability and strength

• In a typical hair-color process, approximately 10% of existing disulphide bonds are destroyed. 
• In a high-lift color or bleaching, 15 — 20% may be permanently broken. The destruction of disulphide bonds leads to the production of a new molecule called cystic acid. Although this is an inevitable side effect, an
•  An appropriate protein/moisture balance can be achieved through the Deep OVERNIGHT  THRIVEN + GLEAM Conditioning Treatments I preach about all the time.

I am a true believer that overnight DEEP Conditioning can solve/repair the disulphide bond breaking that occurs when lightening hair. I've colored 15,000 Heads of hair, so the proof of my theories are all from actual experience
I hope this helps you see now, why I say "lightening the hair" weakens the hair strands....while "same Level or darker" hair color "strengthens" the strands. Read the paragraphs over and over a couple times... it will sink in promise.THIS DOES  NOT MEAN YOU CANNOT LIGHTEN YOUR HAIR AND NOT HAVE HEALTHY HAIR !! It means, take precautions before lightening hair by using Lipid replacing oils with ZERO silicone's in them.

• If you understand how the hair gets damaged then it helps prevent you from damaging it, continuously.
• It's important to understand the individual components of hair coloring products and their primary functions.

Essentially, hair-color requires dye and developer to produce a result.

 
DYES
There are two general categories of dyes: oxidative and direct dyes. Oxidative dyes are extremely small colorless molecules that penetrate through the cuticle and into the cortex with the aid of an alkaline substance such as ammonia. 
Direct dyes are pre-colored molecules that coat the surface of the hair and do not require a reaction with hydrogen peroxide and these are called semi-permanent hair color..

 




DEVELOPER (HYDROGEN PEROXIDE

In order for oxidative dyes to form colored dye molecules, oxidation must take place.

 Oxidation is the chemical process of a hair-color dye reacting with a developer to form visible color. Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is one of the most predominant oxidants used to develop color.

Hydrogen peroxide can be considered 'super-oxygenated' water, and is categorized by volume — most often 10, 20, 30, and 40. "Volume" refers to the 'volume' of oxygen gas contained in one 'volume' of hydrogen peroxide. It is a measure of concentration.

Each volume corresponds with a percentage level as follows:

Developer (Hydrogen Peroxide)

Volume Percentage of H202 Lifting Ability

10 Volume or 3% Deposits only
20 Volume or 6% Lifts Up to 1 level

30 Volume or 9% Lifts Up to 2-3 levels

40 Volume or 12% Lifts Up to 3-4 levels ......................Memorize these - its easy
 
 

Lower volumes of developer are used for minimal lift and staining techniques. Higher volumes are used when increased lifting of the natural pigment is desired.

Hydrogen peroxide has a dual purpose in the hair-coloring process. First, it reacts with the melanin, breaking down the natural pigment and lightening the hair. This is what is referred to as 'lift'. Second, hydrogen peroxide develops oxidative dye molecules creating 'deposit' into the protein structure of the hair.

Really sit and think about the fact that we can change our hair color any color in the rainbow and beyond. . .  it truly is a magical time for hair color and I love it ! 

Hope This Helps

Hydrogen Peroxide Speaks Volumes !....Hair Color Can't Live Without It

Hydrogen Peroxide / Developers

Let me bring the concepts down … to the planet, a lot of this may seem unnecessary and strange sounding but everything needs to be taught and understood for those of you wanting to professional hair color at home front. All of the info talked about, needs to be said ...so I can refer to it as I head deeper into teaching hair coloring at home, be patient. If you want to learn information that would cost a tremendous amount of $$ plus years of experience, just read and re-read every post. I am teaching all our secrets - I don’t know a soul that would do that.}

Getting down to the nitty-gritty > to make a batch of haircolor to put on hair, this is the picture: You have a bowl…a tint brush …on one side of the bowl is some color ….squeezed out of a tube…on the other side of the bowl…..Is the “white stuff”…..which has no smell until the 2 substances are combined…then POW- mix the 2 things together and it explodes in aroma and changes hair color .

That white stuff is the Developer …or Hydrogen Peroxide. I snicker when I hear that some new hair color is great & wonderful because it doesn’t use peroxide. To me….as a chemist….as a Colorist…the last thing on the planet I would want would be a hair color that does NOT have hydrogen peroxide in it ! 

The only hair color that does not work with Developer is SEMI-Permanent Hair Color

A developer is an oxidizing agent that, when mixed with an oxidative hair color, supplies the necessary oxygen gas to develop color molecules and :

create a change in hair color

Developers, also called oxidizing agents or catalysts, having a pH between 2.5 and 4.5 . Although there are a number of developers on the market, hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is the one most commonly used in hair color.

VOLUME is the measure of the potential oxidation of varying strengths of hydrogen peroxide. The lower the volume, the less lift is achieved; the higher the volume, the greater the lifting action. The majority of permanent hair color products use 10 ,20,30,40 Volume hydrogen peroxide for proper color development.

One of the best little tricks in the world of developer are TINTED versions, in other words we have Blue and Violet Tinted Developers in 20 And 40 Volume which helps when needing any sort of warmth reduction ( too much brass/blorange/Gold) if those are your problems give either Blue or Violet Developer a try.

Which Developers Are Lighter & More Liquidy, I Have Thick Yet Baby Fine Hair ?

A recent question from one of our many readers which I do appreciate. They always make me realize that this Blog will never be over ! There are hundreds, even thousands of additions to be answered  and discussed still. 

Always lovely to know !

Developer or H2O2, hydrogen peroxide is the white creamy liquid which is necessary in order for the hair coloring process to take place. Without it there would be absolutely NO lightening happening. It is THAT important, yet when I speak to people even many of you stylists you are afraid of the topic. There really is no need to be afraid of Developer. It is merely 1 molecule away from water! We all know how harmless and how good for us WATER is ??!! 

Right?

Hydrogen peroxide IS Developer. 2 words for the same thing!

Our bodies even produce hydrogen peroxide!

Hydrogen peroxide, the same mild acid that many people use to disinfectant their kitchens or treat cuts and abrasions, is also produced by the body to keep cells healthy. Now, researchers have solved how part of this complex process works.

 Hydrogen peroxide doesn't just come in bottles from the drugstore -- the human body makes it as well. Now researchers from North Carolina State University have found a way to use naturally occurring hydrogen peroxide inside cells to switch on gene expression. Their method also serves as a highly sensitive hydrogen peroxide detector, which may help scientists determine the molecule's role in cellular health and disease says Science Daily.

In a normally functioning cell, hydrogen peroxide serves as a messenger, carrying signals through a cell in order to allow the cell to respond to external stimuli or events. Once the message is transmitted, the hydrogen peroxide diffuses and disappears.
"It's an ideal messenger compound, because it's small, fast, and doesn't linger," says chemist Alex Deiters. "It works by oxidizing, or modifying, certain amino acids in proteins, which affects the protein's function."

 For example, when the immune system is activated in response to bacteria, large amounts of hydrogen peroxide are produced by certain cells to fight the infection. Lowther and colleagues studied how a molecule known as peroxiredoxin (Prx) helps control levels of the agent. The role of Prx is important because if the levels of hydrogen peroxide become too high, the cell's DNA and other proteins can be damaged. Scientists suspect that this and similar processes are what leads to cancer, diabetes and other disease.

Prx actually has a dual role in the process. Its usual job is removing excess hydrogen peroxide from the cells by converting it to water. But if levels get dangerously high -- and Prx needs help -- it becomes inactive in its "converting" job and instead becomes a "signaler," telling the cell to produce or activate other proteins to help remove the excess.

"It basically acts as a sensor and warns the cell that levels are too high and that the cell needs to respond," said Thomas J. Jönsson, Ph.D., lead author, and a post-doctoral fellow at Wake Forest. "Once that threat is gone, Prx needs to go back to its normal state."

I want everyone to understand Developer so you are not afraid of it, once that happens you will welcome the use of it and all the wonderful things it does. If our bodies did not make hydrogen peroxide we would not be alive.....so welcome it and welcome what it 
does.........Please

I also want you to know before I learned all of this I felt the exact same way, I don't know if its the name, or what....? But just the name peroxide used to conjure up horrific things in my mind. I have NO idea where it came from either..... so I am just trying to speed up the process for all of you to accept and love the wonderful little miracle called Developer!

Now, to answer your question on thick or thin..... that does not have anything to do with how it works. 
What it does affect is personal preference. 
Some people like the mixture to be runny, some like it to be thick. But what you will find being as I have worked with over 40 lines of color in my days is this...........
If the color in the tube (no matter "what brand") is on the thicker side, then their developer will be runny. 
Such as Wella's, Schwarzkopf's, Kenra, the most runny is our Violet colored developer. I actually feel it is SO runny I mix it with LANZA which is the thickest to include in our OIL BLEACH KITS, which I am just so proud of. These kits really do wonders for the hair if you are blond!

So your question as to runny or thick? That really is a personal preference. Colorists who do a lot of foil work do not like runny, because runny means the liquid will expand as it develops and then pop out of the foil leaving what we used to call "bunny trails" on the hair (or spots!) I'm sure everyone has either had them or seen them, they come from runny developer. 

The advantage to thick developer, like LANZA, which is clumpy almost....is, it has the "good alcohols" in it. Those good alcohols have one chance to get inside that hair strand and that is when the strand is open and hair color goes in, so that is the advantage of that particular developer over a thinner one. 
Personal preference?
 For me, I love Schwarzkopf's blond developer it is medium thickness and has an oily quality to it so it is very smooth to work with. But again ...........it depends on what you are mixing it with and if you are doing a root touch-up or foil work! To me the thickness of the hair shouldn't matter. 


KC

Getting Comfortable with 'Developer' While Coloring your Hair

Wow, I just did a small Search on hair and hair chemistry and cannot believe the amount of other sites there are out there now. I'm surprised how many of you ask me to continue to write....and encourage me to "keep going" admittedly they are not like KIller Strands but there are other sources, for the longest time, I was it. You don't abandon me and I won't abandon YOU !!! Be very very careful who you listen to, I saw 2 companies who write "supposed Blogs" that are tied to poor quality products, its kind of funny....really.  You will figure it out.....bad products word-of-mouth spreads quickly.


You have to learn to love Developer (peroxide) and not be afraid of it, and please please don't be so headstrong about which developer you ''ONLY'' want to use.  There just needs to be more education before you decide that you want this certain Volume, yet can't explain why. If you can explain 'why' and it follows the rules of hair coloring.....then fine use it. But please, many of you are very set on the Volume of Developer you want without any education.....or the knowledge of why that is your choice -  it needs to be really thought about for a better result. Remember.....I am on YOUR SIDE here !  So many of you are just Hell bent on not using anything higher than 20 Volume ( I have at least 8 of you with this same issue right now, so please don't think its "YOU".....what it is....is so funny that I have so many of you at the same time with the same misguided direction about Developer. All of you want to be a beautiful Blond, BUT won't use anything higher than 20 Volume.....a couple of you splurged and tried 30 Volume which......... still......... DID  NOT   WORK!

                                   Hydrogen peroxide (developer) H2O2 is 
                    responsible for oxidation (NH3 or ammonia + H2O2 = oxidation)

It makes the color permanent and MUST be present for the color to lift and develop, and it makes the color oxidize. First, it reduces (or lifts) the natural pigments (melanin) to reach the desired Target Level.  H2O2 is actually (water) with an extra molecule of O - oxygen .... something I would tell my clients all the time, to calm them when talking about developers. If its only 1 molecule away from water, really............could it be that bad? Oxygen is what creates the lift and development of color in the hair. Oxygen ! Nothing bad like so many of you think ;) .

             The higher the percentage of oxygen in peroxide 
                      the more lift you can achieve... "o-x-y-g-e-n" !

Most Level System colors operate with a range of developers from 5-40 Volume- although lately you can pretty much purchase any # Volume of developer. 

• 5 to 13 Volume is for DEPOSIT ONLY
• 20 Volume for the same level or one Level of Lift
• 30 Volume for 2-3 Level s of Lift &
• 40 Volume for 3-4 Levels of Lift  !

Although Volumes vary among the different product lines, you will notice some of the smarter lines adding moisturizers/conditioners/vitamins....etc. to their formulations of Developer to help condition the hair the one and only time the hair strand is open and able to be helped from the inside ....OUT!

As oxidation occurs, lift begins, which is the removal of the natural pigment (melanin) in the hair. Deposit also begins (at the same time ---> impressive don't you think)....Deposit is a process in which the intermediary color molecules begin joining or locking together to form a NEW color pigment combinations in the hair. With the aid of the H2O2 these molecules attract one another and make such large combinations that they become too large to exit the hair strand/shaft and are actually  are trapped inside. The lift and the deposit occur simultaneously!

Even Stylists think it is the H2O2 that causes the cuticle to open. The H2O2 acts as a buffer for the ammonia in color.  Its pH is actually 2.5 to 4.5. Only when its released through oxidation....does it begin to eliminate pigment.

The Volume of the Developer, along with the amount of ammonia in the color is what determines the lifting action. When a Color product is mixed with Developer, the H2O2 achieves a Working Volume (WV). WV is the actual volume of the diluted formula. Most Color Lines use equal parts to formulate.

                                              For example:
                                                2- oz. Color
                                             + 2- oz H2O2

So if using 20 Volume H2O2, this formula would have a working volume of 10Volume. As the Volume of the developer increases, so does the WV. 

I have tried over and over to make this one sentence crystal Clear, but I have failed. Please remember this, because nothing is more true about Developer than this statement:

The Volume of a Developer does not determine how strong it is, but merely how long it will lift. Stabilized H2O2 is CONTROLLED lifting power: the higher the Volume , the more the 'lift'. (what does "lift' mean? removing, subtracting or lightening color from the hair.

Peroxide + ammonia = Lift & Development of Color

During coloring the H2O2 is converted to water and oxygen

• water drives the pigment into the hair
• oxygen develops pigments 

become friends with the developer needed to achieve the color you desire, especially you Blondes !

Developer, Developer.......: Which Hair Color Developer Shall We Use???

Developer has always taken a 2nd seat to its big brother HAIR COLOR in this whole process, when actually it is just AS important as! 

I wanted to add a little something to this previous post....a lot of you think that 40 Volume is stronger than 20 Volume .If you look at the ingredient label on a 10 Volume and on a 40 Volume they both will say the exact same thing : H2O2 or hydrogen Peroxide. What is different in these various developers is "time" not strength. To explain that further check this next section out :
 
10Volume - 1/2 Level  LIFT
20Volume - 1 Level.....LIFT
30 Volume - 2-3 Levels LIFT
40 Volume - 3-4 Levels LIFT

the Volume doesn't stand for strength it stands for time.........
Do you cook? or bake?
you know how you make a dinner and try to have everything done at the same time so you can all sit down to a meal at 1 time and eat ? Its sort of that same theory....

That's kind of what various developers are for.......
When I start a head of highlights (for example) I will begin using lightener with 20 Volume half way through I will make up another batch of lightener and developer only this one will have 30 or most times 40 Volume and do the remaining hair with that) - that will make it so when we go to the shampoo bowl and rinse the color out ALL THE COLOR WILL BE EVEN, many times Colorists won't do that and YOU end up with 2 different colors .Its not that 40-Volume is stronger - its "TIME" based 40 volume works twice as fast in minutes not in strength. Don't be afraid to use the proper developer, when you do your hair color will come out more correctly. 

I cannot say it enough when you are trying to perfect your formula : STRAND TEST ! Never test a formula on your entire head of hair when it is so easy to do strand tests. We even make Kits, if you purchase over $50.00 you may request 1-2 complimentary Kits !

Educating you how to color hair Professionally, learning to deal with developers is very important as it is the key to perfect & even color, color that lasts a long time and most importantly gives you the exact color you desire with no DURP ! It can be done and it can be done when you learn how to deal with H2O2

There are many things that effect which developer one should use and I will write on it until I feel I have covered it enough for you. Please ask questions here or join our group if you plan on becoming a customer of our store.( We carry a super wide variety of Developers BECAUSE I feel they are so very important.) 

5 years ago there were 4 developer strengths: 

1. 10 Volume 
2. 20 Volume
3. 30 Volume
4. 40 Volume

This is what we have now:

1. 3 Volume
2. 5 Volume
3. 6 Volume
4. 7 Volume
5. 9 Volume
6. 10 Volume
7. 13 Volume
8. 15 Volume
9. 17 Volume
10. 20 Volume
11. 25 Volume
12. 30 Volume
13. 40 Volume
14. 50 Volume...............and now we carry the "Violet Tinted Developers (to prevent Brass, Blorange & Gold in Blonde's!) in 3 levels
15. 20 Volume/violet
16. 30 Volume/violet
17. 40 Volume/violet

I will say that I do enjoy having that selection now as it now handles everything and anything a Colorist could want to do. I have no problem using different brand developers with different hair color's, I suppose it is a personal selection as to which way you go but...I prefer the most moisturized, many have oils in them now...seems like someone has been listening to my ideas. Or maybe its just a dream. ! ! !
                           
  TEXTURE
Hair texture is determined by the diameter of the individual hair strand. Large,medium, and small diameter hair strands translate into coarse, medium and fine hair textures, respectively. Melanin is distributed differently within the different textures. The melanin granules in fine hair are grouped more tightly, so the hair takes color faster and can look darker. Medium textured hair has an average response to hair color product and finally coarse-textured hair has a larger diameter and can take longer to process. 

                        Therefore............
FINE HAIR: takes color faster
MEDIUM HAIR: takes color at an average amount of time
COARSE HAIR: takes longer to penetrate so therefore color's slower 

DENSITY............Another aspect that plays a role in hair coloring/developer, you must remember is density, which is the numbers of hair per square inch......... which can range from thick to thin. Density matters as it affects 'coverage'. If your hair is dense that means it is difficult for that liquid (hair color & developer combined) to weave its way through the individual hairs. 

Remember all our recent conversations about using a Tint Brush versus a Bottle?  { WELL THIS IS EXACTLY THE REASON FOR THAT ! }. Dense hair needs a brush,ALWAYS. other wise there will be uneven waves of color throughout the hair - make sense??!. 

You would always want to use the lowest Volume of Developer possible [ that works for your particular procedure of course...] and there are "lighter or more liquidy developers which I would suggest to use - - if you do have dense hair. For those with average to thin hair I still would advise to use the developer with the most conditioners, the most moisturizers ,etc.. as possible - use our new SPRUSH. they really are worth it.


POROSITY
Porosity is the ability to absorb liquid, porous hair accepts hair color faster and permits darker color than less porous hair. There are different degrees of porosity.....
low porosity: the cuticle is tight>the hair is resistant. which means it is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate & requires a longer processing time. an example of resistant hair ? Gray hair.
average porosity: cuticle is slightly raised, hair is normal and processes in average time.
high porosity: cuticle is lifted;hair is over porous and the hair takes color very quickly <> color also fades quickly

So this is the beginning of an in depth study on developers ( although you can only go so far)...............but see what is funny this graphic below was made 7 years ago and that was the total extent of developer Volumes we carried   ! ! ! !

More coming on this