September 28, 2012

Pink Hair By Use of Pink Toners

 All you ever wanted to know about Toners . . .

Pink hair is only achieved by using a Pink Toner. Pink Toners are made in 2 different manners...the first being as you see here....bleach the hair soft yellow.... That is why you never choose the color you want by the color in the tube. If you were to use Soft Pink you will never EVER achieve this color. Always start darker!

There is a unique class of hair color called 'Toners' and... since beginning Killerstrands, I have always had a difficult time explaining them to both the public & hairstylists. Not much about Hair color formulation is just easy to understand, but if you promise me you will just keep reading concepts you don't understand...I promise it will come to you. Why is it not just a snap, to understand?
Because. . . It involves many different fields:
  • Art knowledge (Color Wheel)
  • Chemistry Knowledge ( How developers & hair color work)
  • Cosmetology Knowledge ( understanding the art of changing hair color)  
  • Experience, So much of what I know comes from 10,000 heads of hair in my chair

The Level System means how Light or dark your hair is. The number that is first on the box of color is the level the color is that is inside that tube.

Lets start with the tube of color on the right ( X.Factor !) --->

The tube on the bottom is 5.18

That means the color is a Level '5'  which is what level this young lady with the headband has:

 All the numbers AFTER the dot . or after the slash / in any hair color line is the demonstration of the "tones" in that particular tube of color.
The next number on our lower box of color is a "1"  ...  which means "Ash" . Because the "1" is first, it means the Ash tone in this particular color is the strongest tone.
The second number is "8" which in this line stands for
chestnut brown.

So all together this color is a Level 5
                             Chestnut Brown

Now you do the color on top ......Level_______
                                  Tone 6 : Red
                                  Tone 2 : Violet

Just to make things confusing not every single line has the EXACT same tones, but every year I watch more and more lines start to go with what everyone considers "Universal".

There are no real books that teach these concepts in 'layman's terms'... and you cannot teach complicated concepts to NEW students without using simple explanations.  I keep hearing that Cosmetology Schools across this country give the Killerstrands Blog as required reading before they start working on people's hair.  Scary, huh?
See, those of you that read and begin understanding the concepts I teach you are miles ahead of NEW
Hairstylists. Take control of your hair by coloring it yourself. It truly is not that hard.
 I always insist you learn the Level System, there is no way around that, so if you give up, you will not understand how haircolor works. I feel since I started this I just have not come up with the perfect explanation as to how it works... I keep trying though ! I have tried many different examples.. including exactly what they teach in HAIR ACADEMY...
 But, I'm not quitting now, so I will keep trying.

What is a Toner?
A toner is defined as an "Opaque" haircolor, that is used with a very low volume of developer - that merely adds a translucent color -- laid on top of the current color.  It began with the 2-Step Process called a Bleach & Tone - way back in the Marilyn Monroe days. She would get her hair bleached white - then need a "toner" to get rid of the yellow ( ... I can guarantee you everyone has a certain amount of yellow when doing this process) . Yep, even Gwen Stefani needs a toner after her bleach touch up.

I would say ... one of the top 10 questions asked a Colorist year in and year out, is, 'what is a Toner'?? I have always explained them as similar to a nylon on the know when a person has a white leg....and then instantly it is 'tan'...I'm a redhead I've HAD to wear nylons since the age of about 12 my legs are so damn scary!But regardless of that, that change is what a Toner does... it "coats'' the hair and adds a tad of gloss. I love them and they are used in the TV and Movie industry all the time. Did you watch the Emmy's ?? Most of them would have a toner that morning....but again they spend an entire day getting ready for a couple hours.

Yes, I would say 8 out of 10 people wanting Toners are Blondes. The look above is huge right now.... she has platinum hair underneath then uses a custom color ( which I am happy to give the formula's for with order- - purchase 2 colors, write in "notes" box : ''I need the formula to create "rose-gold" or whichever color you desire''.

 But that is not to say they are exclusive to them. For anyone darker than a Level 8, you would use a toner to mainly help you get a couple weeks more life out of your gray coverage. I see all these goofy mascara's & sprays & the goofiest of all is that one you put little fibers all over your head. I will never for the life of me understand why you wouldn't just apply a toner to the roots only. So if you want to get longer life out of your color - - lets say it is our beauty from above.... she is a level 5 . . . lets pretend she has 40% gray and wants to make it last another week. All you have to do is use your regular color : The formula for this color is: LANZA 5N + 6A +20V, which is your every 6-8 week formula. But you want to get another 7-10 days out of the color ...just mix the color plus 10 Volume or DEMI - developer and and apply the color to the roots around the face and parting and a little bit deeper in all areas. It will take you the same amount of time as all those other tricks that are for sale, but this will last more than 1 night till your next shower. ! Yes, it is a toner.... then you can see how a toner helps your hair along with covering up your gray....shampoo out and treat with INTENSIVE if you have time, but is not at all necessary.

 I wish hair color manufacturers would concentrate on this category. Instead they come up with these mickey mouse "foam" hair colors. . . .in which the entire concept is nothin but a gimmick - NEVER USE THOSE + they are  horrible for the health of your hair.

Remember, when you re-color your hair every 4-8 weeks, only color the new growth, hair color is not made to apply on top of itself over and over ....which is what foam is designed for  and all the other silly gimmicks you see on stores shelves. Use your head, check in here, join our group and if you are making a purchase... just click that FEEDBACK button on the stores pages for a response for help.
September 26, 2012

If You Want Your Children to Be Intelligent : Read Them Fairy Tales...(Albert Einstein)

If you want them to be MORE Intelligent : read them MORE Fairy Tales.

I read both of my daughters Fairy Tales from the minute they were born until as long as they would listen - - I think it worked. 

One of the biggest trends that continues to grow is the trend toward waves in every length of hair. Usually trends like this come and go ... but this one has jumped out of the "trend category'' and looks to be a permanent fixture in the world of hair styles. My 1 daughter has a wonderful little Blog that points to her upcoming choices in various corners of Fashion/Hair/Make-Up & Beauty. Today, she pointed out a wonderful little 'waving' tool that I think everyone should take a look at,so instead of go into too much about it I would love for everyone to visit her site Sessions of my Obsessions Blog . Its worth signing up for in my humble opinion - especially if you are a mother, homemaker, professional, fashionista, and lastly are Hair hungry & Beauty obsessed! (This is Tawny Ellis)

My other daughter slid into the world of photography......she really has blossomed into her own woman. Check out her site that is pretty much self well as newly designed and fun to explore. Many of your favorite celebrities are here so be sure to bop around... and this is Cheyenne Ellis.  

Love to both my girls . . .  they have done so well . . .  they are so sweet & cool 

  ....... Love, KC  Killer Chemist /  & Mom - the most important work I ever took on

September 16, 2012

Why Wen is Wacky (haircare that is)

Wow, there is not a hair brand more insane and full of shit than the haircare line referred to as Wen. 
His claim is that you shampoo your hair with conditioner ... conditioner that has a little Suds included.  Well, here at Killerstrands we promote not even using conditioner....conditioner is almost the EXACT same formula as hand/body LOTION !!    Can you imagine pouring that on your freshly cleaned hair? Me neither. About 30% of all women with length in their hair, need some sort of de-tangling action and help with brushing through the hair. That is not very many women. A lot of women have short hair, so . . . If you have short hair and are using conditioner of any kind, STOP NOW!

I REFUSE TO PUT A PHOTO OF THIS PRODUCT on my Blog. . .  no promotion here. Sad but True. Many times I worry that my opinions will completely shock the Hell out of my readers, but I'm done worrying about it. Here comes the God's honest truth. Being born/bred in California ... born in Santa Monica, same hospital Tom & Katie had "Suri" in . . .

 I must be bat-shit ... but really I'm not, I'm honest & truthful to a fault, 

and that's it.

I want you to know that I will try any hair product - if I receive enough emails or I have read about it in trade magazines before it hits the streets., or any hype . . . I truthfully ONLY care about the ingredients used and the result they have formed. I have nothing against any brand,

   As long as they make a good product
that will keep your hair on your head + not damage or 
destroy any part of the growth or health of the hair

I only heard of this wing-nut WEN through this blog, so I was a good girl and I ordered it retail and tried it personally about 2 years ago. What a complete crock, my hair never felt yuckier and the amount I had to use was ridiculous. It was a laugh and a half, but I was trying to watch my tongue and not scare the shit out of everyone.

With many requests on my opinion lately, its time to reply with just my 'opinion'.

The answer to this ding-dong and his supposed grand results is ........... 3 words :

                       PROFESSIONAL  BLOW DRY

Every one one of you has had a professional blow-dry at some point in your life.. . . right?
Remember how wonderful that felt? 

 Remember how thick and smooth & glorious your hair felt?

 That is the one and only thing that sells his products. To me that is illegal marketing. I forget the name of the law but we have one in this country. If you market a product and claim it does something remarkable - - it sure as shit -- better do it. I think with the Internet enforcing that is probably impossible anymore.


               Before                                                            After

100 bucks says she has extensions in the AFTER shot, but again can you say: PROFESSIONAL BLOW DRY  ! ! ! ! !

           Before                                                                                                After

Notice the teeth in both photos "AFTER" photos, putting the hair in front sure helps, right?

                                 AGAIN.................PROFESSIONAL  BLOW   DRY  ! ! 

I hope you caught Saturday's Newsletter . . . put that and this message together... I am trying to educate you, so you make better choices for your hair products. It matters, its not just YOU with thinning hair at the age of 18 - 20 - 30 - 40 & 50 . . . truly the NATURAL age hair loss should begin is: 60 not 20 or 30. The products you are using are destroying the hair bulb which is where the hair begins to grow again after it has NATURALLY shed. It is a 4-6 year cycle, if you use grocery store products or this crap, you will destroy that bulb. If you destroy that bulb once that hair strand sheds, it will NOT be able to begin to grow once again AND THAT MY KILLERSTRANDS READERS - - is what causes hair thinning, hair balding and destruction of the hair's health slowly but surelly for those of you with a full head....

Beware, the use of drug store / grocery store / discount department store is going to be the one thing YOU DO NOT WANT IN LIFE :  THINNING & DAMAGED HAIR.

The choice is yours.   

Make it wisely. 

Begin to read this Blog from page 1, no matter how boring you might think it is going to be. I
 bet you will be very surprised !  

I am the one & only person who knows how important your hair is to you...