February 24, 2013

Solve Frizzy Hair + Hair That Won't Hold Hair Color

All hair can hold Hair color and I've never met a head of hair I couldn't get rid of the Frizz on! These problems go together, and if you solve one you will solve the other. There is a reason many years ago I came up with the products I carry and it was certainly not because the "salesman" in me was just dying to get out, I promise you. 

I developed these products because I was lucky enough to study Cosmetic Chemistry under a wonderful Cosmetic Chemist that we shockingly lost one morning when we all turned our computers on about 4 years ago. He taught many of us the proper way the art of how and why all of these products we buy for our hair and our face, work and most importantly - HOW-TO-MAKE-THEM

One of the most important products I carry and make is, GLEAM. Gleam is the combination of over 14 Oils , extracts, vitamins and amino acids - there is not 1 oil that even comes close to it, in the repairing factors it does on the hair strands.. Gleam is ABSOLUTELY necessary to give the strands the lipids needed for that shine you all desire so damn much....Gleam - - makes the cuticle lay down which is what reduces and ultimately gets rid of all FRIZZ. Even the words "hair" and "oil" conjure a greasy, un-showered, un-stylable mess in our heads, that most of us work very hard to avoid.
What then, is the deal with Gleam, a hair oil, a product that is intended to be deliberately applied to your hair? Who on earth would encourage such a slippery, slimy practice?

Me, that's who, someone who has study the structure of hair and the making of hair products for nearly 15 years now. I say that it's high time we ditched our ill-conceived notions about hair oils, because there's a new generation of lighter, multi-faceted ones that do anything but render your hair into an oil slick. "The Oils of today are lighter carefully formulated products that, if applied correctly, will avoid any idea of an oil-slick.
 Gleam can do the job of your leave-in conditioner, styling cream, frizz serum, and shine spray in one. It's a styling product more than a treatment product.

When you're using a hair oil to style your hair, apply it from ends to mid-length to avoid the oily scalp pitfall. I also want to stress the importance of starting with a small amount until you know exactly how much your hair needs -- you can always apply more. Once you get the hang of it -- and toss the seven other hair care products that are taking up valuable bathroom room -- you'll wonder how you ever lived without hair oil in the first place.

Now for those of you determined to solve your frizzy oil and your hair color retention ( how long hair color actually stays in your hair)....then you will need the 2nd part of the dynamic DUO called the 200WATT KIT !

THRIVEN, when use at least once a week completely changes the make-up of your hair. This is a conditioner that is left on the hair over night, and a conditioner that is so rich in goodies and proteins that your hair has truly never received such a JOLT ! It never has woken up and stood at attention so well AND for SO DAMN LONG ! ! ! 
The biggest secret?
Sleeping with it in.
You know the magic your face receives when sleeping in those fancy multi hundred dollars creams?? Well, SAME PRINCIPAL!
Same Luxury!

February 18, 2013

The Color of Honey

The Science of the "Law of Color" and How To Color The Hair
Stylists have trouble learning the ''Law of Color'' Concepts. So, I never want you to be hard on yourself. They spend a full year deeply concentrating on these concepts and many times end up with a complete blank stare on their face when finished, so please don't think you should get it right away either ! I am going to be going in order for easier learning the next short while and will let you know when I have stopped.

In my descriptions of how hair color works, some hair color will be tagged (+ color) and it will only add color .... say a Level 3 or level 4 color.....those colors are (+ color) only colors. There are colors that are "lifting color" or will actually bring existing color out of the hair, so those colors will be called (-color)...then there are colors that are (+ & - COLOR).   When you apply color to the hair, you are adding (+ color) color...............so color + color = MORE color, so the hair has more pigment.

 If the color used is addition only, the hair will often but not always be darker. Deposit (+ only) tints are often used as "TONERS" which is described as:changing the tonal value of the hair without changing the lightness or darkness of the actual color of the hair. This is the least complicated method of tinting the hair. Any time the hair is lightened, no matter how little, you are subtracting pigment or (- COLOR). When subtracting color from the hair, one sees a imbalance of natural pigments, as you are altering nature. 

Single-process hair color uses both (-)subtraction to remove pigment &(+)addition to + add artificial pigment 

Now remember when we just studied the primaries. Primary hair colors are Red - Yellow  & Blue.

Remember when the 3 primaries are mixed in exact equal amounts....what color do we get? 
We get black/gray. 
Uneven amounts of the primaries = brown (shades of). That is why knowing the color wheel is important, because every person's hair is derived from the color brown. Black is just a dark-dark brown......and blonde is simply a super super light brown. All colors of hair are derived from the main color brown.

If there is more yellow than red or blue, the brown will be light, even beige. If there is more red than the other two primaries, the brown will be warm brown. And if there is more blue than yellow or red, the brown will be dark and cooler looking.

All virgin hair is a shade of brown: it contains all 3 primaries...which is why understanding the LAW of COLOR is so important to the end result in hair coloring 
                        Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment

So as you begin to lighten color at any level (you are not actually dealing with brown, you are dealing with the DURP - which is usually red,orange, gold, or yellow. 

Every single one of you complains about the "warmth"  when you begin to lighten the hair. BLUE is the first color to leave the hair in the lightening process, which leaves Red & Yellow to the eye....100% complete warmth and unappealing to the eye. Although I suspect if things were different and the warmth left the hair first, then to the human eye "warmth" would be the appealing tonal category. That just rings true to the "we always want, what we cannot have ... verbiage . Don't you think?

** Balanced hair coloring comes when all 3 primaries are present. When hair undergoes lightening (pigment is subtracted), even slightly, there will be an imbalance of the primaries.

** Color companies always have separate tonal series, with a GOLD, RED, BLUE/VIOLET, GREEN, Natural.

February 15, 2013

Hair Color Formulating: How To Decide Total Hair Color Needed - Per Application?

Sound Simple? I Don't Feel It Is, Lets See What You Think, After You Read This . . .

There is a simple part of the hair color formula that I did not realize was difficult to understand. Sometimes its the simplest things that I miss, so just keep asking questions, guys and girls. I love to be asked questions.   Many times it's regarding something I assume people know.  I feel all teachers think like that...(or they should).  For those of you leaving 'Comments' on here (and there are a LOT of you), please know that if its a good question that would benefit others also,  I will turn it into a 'Post'  (eventually), so ask what you want to know, and I will cover it.

What you need to know to figure out the amount of color to mix , all depends on the amount of hair you have. So that one thing I can never tell you. Say someone - man or woman has kind of the typical- short cut hair. We call it a "Crop" in the Biz, you know like this example of Pink:
 or this example of this actor:
Both have a crop.
Each one of them needs a completely different " amount" of color to use in the end ...once its all mixed up. In the Salon, the color is the most expensive part of the entire Salon world - so we treat it with care. We measure carefully, we always use Color Tube keys  .to get every last bit of color out of the tube. That is a completely normal occurrence in a well run Salon. To outfit a (small) Salon with just 1 line of hair color in all the colors cost thousands, so it is smart to re-cap the tubes the minute you are done, & save all old tubes of color .

What each of you need to do is to figure out how much color you will need to complete your hair color. Then you work backwards from there in knowing how much to mix. Once you have colored your hair this way you will know how much you need from then on.  Pink will need 1 full ounce less hair color than Robert does (in the above photos) even though they have the same length hair. 

There are so many variables when you are coloring the hair the very first time and especially when I teach this professional manner of coloring the hair (AT HOME!) \. You must also get used to the brand of color you are using.  "X.Factor" hair color uses a ratio of 1 part color to 1.5 ounces of developer. So with that brand you will have more color when it is mixed up than with "Wella Koleston Perfect", which is 1 part color to 1 part developer.

Experience has shown colorists that the less developer one uses, the richer the end color you have, so I always look for hair color with the ratio of 1:1.  That is the big advantage of "Wella Koleston Perfect".............. and that is why "Illumina" works so well. So.......that all needs to be taken into account that first time, men. Don't get all freaked out.  I don't want to scare you away from becoming Crib Colorists.

 So if Pink needs a total of 1 & 1/2 ounces of color how much does Robert need?
About double that- -  he has a LOT of hair even though its the same length (and I can tell its very porous), so I would say he would need a total of 3 ounces - even though its the same length.


Make sense?
I finally posted a photo of my hair  :  

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cG5SntugkdY/URzD6km5yxI/AAAAAAAAI8I/oy79x5s01X0/s1600/00+-+KC+-+99.jpg I know I need a total of 10oz. of color to do my base every 6- 8 weeks. After you color your hair the first 1-2 times you will come up with the amount of ounces you need if you don't know now.
As a professional colorist, one must calculate the color needed for every single head of hair needed all day long. It is quite the chore. My number is unusually high because my hair is bra-strap length, super porous & dense because of my use of the Secret Supplement, Thriven, and the rest of the 10,000 Heads.

Feel free to leave your comments.  I try to get to this every day, but don't always make it!!
However..... I love getting good questions.
February 10, 2013

Knock Knock...Who's There? MEN, & We Want Our Hair Colored Correctly Too !

SO MANY men could benefit from the Illusion of top quality hair color, its tough to explain exactly what I mean through a Blog, but I know you guys are out there - - looking for me ! 
I simply want about 50 % of you to use our top quality hair color, to color your hair the "same color" your hair already is. Why? To give the illusion we use on film all the time. Every actor you see has died their hair in the manner in which I am talking about. What it does is fill-in the hair strands and skin on a man's head to give the appearance of thick hair..

EVEN IF YOU HAVE NO GRAY HAIR. Why? Because hair color in the quality we carry at KS works to add the illusion of color density to your hair, it will just color your hair the color it is and make it look as though you have a full head of hair  - -  when in fact, you may not - you may even have a decent head of hair, but coloring as I am talking about could offer you the ability to get a job or even!

The look, which you may be able to easily accomplish with just the slightest of trouble, will make it look like you have a full head of hair without any of the problems! 

I would recommend all men purchase 2 tubes of color at the level of their hair color they are..
 I'm terrified of making this too complicated for you.

 Men, you have been having to use Boxed Hair Color crap for way too long now and I'm here to announce : I'm here for you ! Back in 2007 I tried to begin a Blog just for you, as you can see loud and clearly at my other blog : www.razerburn.blogspot.com,
 but it was just too much, so I want to ask the girls to scoot over and let the men come on in... so we can do it all in the same place - @ the same time....It really does go together. Men, I hope you will come out of hiding as well...although its OK if you do not
 So with the addition of quite a few new men customers this past week, I have heard from you loud and clearly that you want 2 things for your color which you are not getting in the boxed kits:
#1: EASY
I invite you to become a CRIB  COLORIST right along side the women.
In the next week I will be rolling out a couple different product pages designed specifically for you. 
  1. Mens Hair Color kit + sample oil
  2. 'Annihilate' (mens buckthorn oil)
  3. B & B Kit (brow / beard tinting Kit) 
I've made an oil that is designed for men, you use it for 2 reasons: to soften your beard prior to shaving, and apply it to the hair prior to coloring. Using oil on the hair prior to coloring in my world has always been mandatory. There is absolutely no reason you cannot have shiny, healthy hair as well. NO REASON! 

Annihilate is formulated with a base of these some of these oils and in varying percentage's .  Killerstrands oils are  made with a higher quality than any other oil:
Here is a portion of the oils in this formula:
  • Sea Buckthorn Berry Oil
  • Aloe Vera Extract Oil
  • Coconut Oil
  • Mixed Tocopherols T50, Natural Vitamin E 
  • Argan Oil
  • Nettle Extract Oil
  • Abyssinian Oil
  • Calendula Extract Oil
  • Horsetail Extract
  • ..............PLUS + another additional 11 extracts included in this formula..........THIS IS WHY THIS WORKS!
there are benefits in each individual oil that I add to this Complex. . .give this a chance so you can see the wonderful healing properties.
 It's the unique combination of oils that makes Annihilate work so well . . . same with Gleam and all my combinations.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          

With each purchase of of the hair color kit we are giving you a small sample of Annihilate enough for 1 hair color. Or you can purchase a 2 or 4 oz bottle, this oil is good for any scalp/Itchy or dandruff problems you may have Oils are truly miraculous,these oils problems you may have along with dandruff                                                                                                                                               
 Currently I already have a few. Including the Free consultation with order offer.  The difference being - if you have the traditional mens hair and it is not as long as say Kid Rock's is, then you only need to answer the following questions:
  1. Is hair thick or thin ?
  2. What % gray do you have overall ? 
  3. Do you have previous color on your hair ? 
  4. For how long have you been applying that color? 
  5. What is brand?
  6. What LEVEL is your Virgin hair (your own with nothing on it
  7. What LEVEL is your Color Now?
  8. What LEVEL do you want it to be?
 Men, were 50% of my color clientele so I have had a lot of experience in the field. I can tell from what many of you order how simple you want the formula. You cannot get the same result from Sally's color as you can with any of the color lines we carry. From the amount of people coming to Killerstrands I can only deduct that Sally's color creates as many bad results as boxed color. I cannot exactly pinpoint the difference, I can only say that the color doesn't react to removal like any of the higher end lines of color. There is a certain way that hair color goes into the strands of hair...molecularly and that does not seem to happen with the other lines of color is my best guess. .The reasin almost every guy is coloring his hair? To cover gray. He simply wants to cover the gray and keep it the same color. 

The thing is, so MANY OF YOU COULD benefit from the Illusion god quality
I would recommend all men purchase 2 tubes of color at the level of their hair.
 I'm terrified of making this too complicated for you.
I know you want easy.

The Level is how light or dark.
Level 1/2 is black and then Level 12 is Platinum
Level 1 and 2 are too dark for the human eye to even tell the difference, but is Asian or Indian hair color.
 and then submit your answers to the above questions with your order, here: Color with Consultation
Submit those answers with the purchase, there is a little box that holds a lot of info. right as you check out.
When I was forced to end my Salon career nearly 50% of my clientele were men, and in Malibu they were coloring their hair at that time so I thought every man would want to . But as Malibu usually does, it surprises me, and is its own little microcosm in the world!  For some reason, Google is not letting me have access to Razerburn ... so I will begin to write here to you. The reason being is there is already so much information on hair health and hair color right here on Killerstrands .... so the women are going to have to scoot over and make room for you. 

I will begin writing one Post a week to you here, just to you. The hair color you want to use and the Consulting + hair color we offer is perfect for you. I am going to make up a much shorter list of questions for you to answer. The women have to answer 15 questions............. for you men, when you purchase the Free Consultation with Color, youonly have to answer 7 and I will help you!!!

please come join our Yahoo Group, that way you can ask questions of me, do not worry about not knowing what to do, I have no idea what I am doing in the group either I am constantly dropping messages...its really quite funny you would think I know how to work it. . .  but I do not!