April 26, 2013

Tint On Wet Hair OR Dry Hair & Pulling Thru

A great couple questions asked by a group member, that just had to be make it to the Blog

1. Always Tint Permanent Hair color on DRY hair
2. Always Tint Demi-Permanent Hair Color on Wet hair

4. Always use Bleach on Dry hair
5. Always begin and use Oil Bleach on DRY Hair
6. Always apply bleach highlights on Dry Hair.
7. Always Apply Toner to Wet Hair

When we say wet hair we mean wet hair that is gently and carefully towel dried or air dried for a while so the hair is what I call Wet/Dry. NEVER dripping wet.

 When Pulling Hair Color thru at the end of processing, what do I use?

Pulling thru: always mix up more than you need at the beginning so there is left over....just when you are getting ready to pull thru, squeeze a shot of 20 Volume ( or the developer you just used if that is all you have) into the old color........mix really well and begin putting it on quickly all over the hair NEATLY in quarters, being sure to get it even and using a giant wide tooth comb (we sell plenty great ones) comb that thru quickly

April 18, 2013

"No Ammonia" in Hair Color Means, What?

 Well, one more line in Hair Color, has sent me a notice stating they have produced a "non-ammonia" line of hair color. I know a lot of you may think, OMG - that is what I must look for. I want you to try to remember that any type of beauty product that is sold to you in 'words' and 'sayings' ... are fully tested before you ever see that product on TV or in print. So if 'ammonia' doesn't "TEST" well, they take it out of a product. 

Big companies like Matrix, Redken, L'Oreal are now advertising hair color claiming they are 'ammonia-free'... do you know what I think as a Colorist? 
Oh geez, not going near that one. Why? ? I have standards.  

Ammonia is what one needs for hair color to work at its optimum..... years ago when this 'ammonia-free' idea was brand new, I tested multiple new lines out........the result? Just average.Not a lot of shine, not great gray coverage and those are the 2 main points colorists look for in their Hair Color Lines. First of all, you need to understand what ammonia does in hair color ? I think everyone has a false idea of what it is and what it does. It's not that tart 'scent' that is in a Hair Salon, that smell is almost always from:
  • Perms
  • Straighteners
  • Relaxers
  • Acrylic/Gel & all other NAIL product ingredients
  • and then any combinations of all them !

The only smell that may bother you while getting hair colored is when you combined powder bleach "with" developer....and that comes from mainly the powder bleach. Developer has no scent, so I truly feel 'ammonia' gets a bad rap. Ammonia, technically "opens the cuticle". Opening the cuticle is how the hair color gets IN the hair strands. There are other chemicals that open the cuticle, although none of them worked as well as ammonia, so that is why ammonia has always been used, to be frank. That is why they were never used prior to today. So it is almost comical to me, that they are reverting back to the prior element used to opening the cuticle MEA. That and putting in ingredients to these new hair color lines so the scent will not be quite so offensive to people ( which is what will cure the main problem) SCENT. 

No one has produced a 'quality' line of hair color without ammonia and from my experience, people do not want to sacrifice one for the other. But, if you would like to try one of these new lines, I will be happy to carry them in a trial-phase type form. So in the testing faze you can order 1-2-3 tubes of any one of these new lines by writing the store with the line and the colors, and we will order them for you and if we find that many of you are interested in one of these lines, we will be happy to carry it for you

Hows that for 'customer service' 


is our email, so please - drop us a line with your request, it will take 1 week to get your color!

Killer Chemist
Killerstrands Hair Clinic

April 6, 2013

Can Boxed Hair Color Truly Produce Highlights and Lowlights ?

One of the more absurd boxed Hair Color commercials shows a beautiful woman "Kate" with her
supposed husband in a Voice-over roll speaking about her beauty "remaining the same" over the years (with supposedly this boxed hair color being the reason for her still youthful beauty - I GUESS!!). He is explaining how his life has changed so much......" 4 moves, 3 kids & 2 jobs"......but she has always remained the same. As if, his wife's hair, never got gray because she uses this ridiculous Box of Hair Color. First of all, I want everyone to know, that this is NOT HIS WIFE. TV commercials are cast, just like movies or TV shows are (see below). They look long and hard for the 2-3-4, etc.. people (the child is an actor too) that are cast in a national commercial like that .... and why? ..... because a helluva lot of money is as stake. P & G has to pay these actors every single time this commercial plays, it is a "national ranked commercial", which means that from 1 or 2 days work these actors put in to shoot the commercial, they could bring in a high 6 figure income! A TV commercial in hair color is never an honest endeavor, I hope everyone realizes that.....but this one stuck out more than most to me so I felt I must at least explain ...'why', for those that are new to Killerstrands.

So this boxed Hair Color's main point was that this $8.00 Box-O-Crap could give your hair both
highlights and lowlights similar to this 'woman's hair' when she was younger (is the premise).  Which is scientifically and chemically impossible to do. So, the fact that they boldly advertise this box to be able to pull off a Coloring trick that takes a highly skilled Colorist to accomplish, when false advertising is illegal in this country, infuriates me.  The next time you are confused by what politicians in Washington are getting paid off for ... remember this to relate it to your life. 

I'm sure many of you at one time or another may have had foils in your hair, or if not, may have seen them in someones hair, right? There is a very specific reason we use foils, which is to apply different colors inside those foils, so the result is....a multitude of colors giving a more authentic and youthful appearance when finished. Before foils there was a weird apparatus called a cap and hook...where they would yank small bits of hair thru to also impart color differences, which hurt peoples head too much so, foils were developed. No one has developed any further technique's because foils are as close to painting on individual colors as we have found.  But, here is where the art gets tricky........you know how there are rules for coloring the hair? Well, all of those rules pertain to individual foil work as well. Which means you cannot just apply any color on top of another hair color or it won't work. All of the hair color rules that pertain to the Killer 14 questions still need to be applied to the foils in order for the colors to end up the same. You still need to have a lighter hair color underneath if you plan on applying a lighter color on top, and so on. The Art of Hair Color and looking natural is no small feat.

So, it is insulting to my career and to the art of hair color, that this commercial gives false hopes to women who don't have access to possibly foils and foilwork. If you are going to advertise quit giving false hope when you know for a fact that it is not chemically possible to give both highlight and lowlights when you apply one color. I mean listen to how ridiculous the sentence evens sounds. 

Come on P & G, GET WITH IT.


(Full disclosure: I want to say that I support P & G in one facet of hair coloring, as I support Wella : Color Touch and Koleston Perfect Professional Hair Color, which they bought from a Private owner about 2 years back, I tried a couple other brands and none were as good as Wella, so I returned.)

About This Commercial

DescriptionThis commercial shows a man talking about his wife Kate. He says that although he has aged, his wife still looks more beautiful than ever. In one step, with color blend technology,    ________ is proven to give more blends of tones versus untreated hair.
Advertiser   (Airing Rank: 248)
AgencyGrey Global Group Inc.
Tagline“The Color Experts”


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People, Places & Things

ActorsAlex Kendall (Model) – Plays Husband
MusicKnow the song?