October 30, 2012

Follow the Colorbrick Road: How Texture Relates To Hair Color - Step # 1

 The System will be called : 14. Point Fast & Furious Hair Color System  

Texture of the hair... its your hair texture - you must figure out - then off you go to calculate your hair color selection.  This woman to the right has some of the best hair texture on planet Earth ...... it took me a couple years being a hairstylist in LA, to learn what in the world 'good texture' looked like. The funnier part I discovered....people that have it, don't know they have it !  If someone ever comes up to you and asks you to be a "hair model" you can pretty much tell from that - YOU ARE ONE OF THE LUCKY ONES !

I'm thinking that almost everyone knows their own texture. Please submit a question at the bottom of this Post, if you don't know your own texture.  I'm a hair stylist so I forget the world "before" ! No question is a bad question. I need to know that... in case I need to explain that. So, until I hear that question I will assume everyone knows if their hair is:
  • Fine
  • Normal
  • Coarse

See what it says under the name of this System above ('14-Point : Fast & Furious Haircolor System')?

                   ...texture will affect the: 
  • developmental time of the product you apply
  • the amount of  product you use 
  • the correct usage...........................  see it?

Those are the 3 key reasons you need to figure out your texture. Answer those and you are done with this Step. I don't think you can tell by the illustration but, the 'scales' you see on each hair strand, they are arranged differently....

  -- on the

   > Fine hair : the scales are arranged looser - which helps the color seep in quicker - therefore doing its' job of coloring or lightening the hair 'faster'... nor does it need as much product on the tint brush to accomplish the same action, as the Coarse hair. ( lucky you, you can purchase less than the norm of color - which only counts -- when you get started and have multiple tubes. Its hard to purchase less than 1 tube, nope,......... impossible !) 
  > Coarse hair : on coarse hair the scales are tight - very tight .. therefore making the job much harder of letting the color 'in' to do its' job...once in, the color must stay on and process much longer ..and finally : twice as much product must be used than those with fine hair. ( so you will need to buy more)

I won't pinpoint medium texture, I think those of you with that hair can tell where you sit. There are a lot more with medium texture than you think, don't be so rough on your hair ... or yourself.  The only thing that is frustrating is learning the system to color hair, not your hair itself !
Every texture hair has its pluses and minuses - there is no 'perfect texture' - whatever yours is ..... give up fighting it, and learn to work with it and love it. 

Texture and porosity are very close entities so I have included them both in the chart underneath,  which I really will refer to when we hit the porosity page, later.
Copy of vis319989

Here is a photo of a hair strand multiplied a hundred zillion times and those scales that control so much 'within' hair color. 

Did you know that depending on the tightness or looseness of those scales . . . is what can turn your hair from the beauty & deliciousness  of Jennifer Anniston's hair to the "extension helped" Chelsea Handlers' sad hair. Hey, they are BFF's and if there was something that could help Chelsea's hair... her bff is one of the most wealthy women in this state if not, the most wealthy -- and she would help her with it. ( I wish I could get her Thriven and most specifically the 'Secret Supplement' that is the type of hair it makes the biggest difference for :D  )

Evaluate Your Hair Texture

  • Very fine hair is more fragile, easier to process and more susceptible to damage than is coarse or medium hair. As a general rule fine hair will take color darker. Therefore when formulating, and you are stuck in the middle of 2 colors - always go one half to one level lighter... it will always be a good idea

  • Medium hair is the most common hair texture. It is considered normal and does not pose any special problems or concerns.

  • Coarse hair has the largest diameter which usually requires more processing than medium or fine and will take color lighter because of the resistance factor...formulate one half to one level darker. It is usually more difficult for lighteners, and color to penetrate. Leave it on longer, always run that strand test first.
I think that is as much as needs to be said about this topic, I hope it is crystal .............crystal clear.

October 27, 2012

Hair Color Removal & the 'Shampoo Train' !

Gentle & Safe Tricks to Remove Old Hair Color 

+ Intro to KC's "Shampoo Train"

 This trick normally would be the one I recommend you head to a Professional for, it is about the toughest project you can take on in Hair Color - there almost always is one "Hair-Color-Correction Specialist in every town. Or at least here in California there is. Encourage Stylists in your area to specialize in it they will become very very busy.

First we want to talk about the Malibu 2000 Color Correction Packet.
 The Color Correction  particular packet is used for a multitude of applications, let me pin-point the important ones:
  • old hair-color removal
  • mistake's in hair color
  • Shampoo Train step 
  • Prepping hair for NEW color
  • Remove 'many' of various Krazy Kolor brands
  • removes chlorine, metals, build-up - prior to coloring ANY color
 As the title says it helps Correct hair color mistakes...sometimes not completely... but it loosens the molecules in your attempt to remove hair color undesired.  I have been using these packets for 15 years, they make such a difference in both coloring results AND in the health of your hair....they are very reasonably priced and we include a Cap with ours free of charge ... they work much better if used with cap - the cap helps generate heat on the head for optimum results. This tip and trick has been kept hush-hush for many years, from the head Colorists at V.Sassoon. The difference it makes in the coloring of your hair is wonderful. You may use this packet as well as any in the Malibu 2000 line to keep the metals & gunk in all water now, out of your hair. Many people love the light and clean feeling of their hair. Try one, you'll see. 

The Shampoo Train is my little cute (effective) trick for helping change hair colors semi-often. Depending on the procedure of course, and I remind you - everyone is different.

The SHAMPOO TRAIN  goes like this :
Purchase or use that one bottle of sulfate-shampoo you have hiding in your cupboard  that is super cheap  + has sulfates in it... you know every bad thing there is.or you purchase one at the drug/grocery store.. You are only using it for this one process so there is nothing to worry about. Then as frequently as you can : shampoo the hair ferociously (not scalp - just hair strands!) -- being sure to spend 4-5 minutes -- scrub - scrub - scrubbing ! ! scrub the hair in your hands with a back & forth scrubbing action - like a washboard almost. The last step is to either:
  •  leave the shampoo on the hair  for 30-45 minutes with a cap or 
  • if you are really trying to have it work fast... you will need the heat of a Hair Dryer... and dry it for 15-20 minutes.
  • Now you may do this procedure 4-5 times in one day or over the course of  1-2-3 weeks - its all completely up to you and how big your project is. ..... and all these applications are why the "train' reference.......... as it just keeps going and going !
  • This is the description of the most radical Shampoo Train  - - then you may condense it down to your situation ! OK? Get it? Questions? Use the FEEDBACK buttons in the store.
 Now, the most inexpensive/compact version of a blow dryer was this little Dryer system you see ( click it to purchase).....They come in silver & black -- so don't expect any particular color.....but they last a long time and work well for this and a multitude of things. * dry velcro curlers * deep condition with Thriven or you deep conditioner * Hot Oil Treatment with Gleam * Heat up your hamburger !! j/k......you watch all the reasons you find for this!

. . . everyone tells me they love it - - - we carry this great compact version in the store for this and for deep conditioning which you should do when completed with this entire procedure PLUS use INTENSIVE to save the pH.  This contraption turns a blow dryer into a hood dryer - they fly out of here because they work for a multitude of hair applications. After that you  shampoo.  What this does is loosen the color molecules that are lodged in your hair.  

OR... If you are having problems lightening a color a little that way ...then you next add this Color Correction packet, do the complete application as stated on the packet....then the shampoo train -- then the Color Correction packet -- and back to the Train and on and on.... one then the other... and for the perfect Color Removal process you would Shampoo Train for a few days in a week
Isn't it funny... so many of us color our hair and do everything possible to get it to stick and stay in the hair.. now here we are trying to get that same color out ! ! 
The advantages of the Shampoo Train procedure are :
  • lessens the amount of Vanish you have to use
  • Most Gentle method of shaking up molecules you plan to remove
  • Boxed hair Color can be next to impossible to remove, this helps the process not cost so much.
I admit it is very time consuming. But when I started writing this Blog there were many people who could not afford VANISH...pretty much anyone can afford the Color Correction packet & do the Shampoo Train...while you save up to purchase Vanish...you can be doing this. I promise - IT WORKS ! ! ! !

Of all the Treatment Packs this one is Great for alternating with VANISH -- when trying to get old syrupy mollasses-y Boxed Hair Color out of the Hair.

Now the Shampoo Train experience comes from trying to take actors who wanted different colors all the time ...and do it safely and gently so this is my own little treatment that stems from my training at Sassoon... it works well. There is the wonderful Color Remover called VANISH we recommend. But, doing any hair color process, even removing your color is just not healthy to do every day or every week. Don't get me wrong, there is a lot of room to play...and we will go into all the ways when someone poses a question they want answered.

The last trick for stubborn color
In order to begin, depending on the previously colored hair you will need to pick 1,2 or all 3 of these procedures first.

There is no magic to this problem , you must get the color out of your hair first, in order to change colors. I know it sucks. 

October 25, 2012

Calculating Hair Color Formula's - Answering Killer 18 Questions

Hair Color Analysis...with previous hair color on currently

Many books & many Colorists, think there are only 4 or 6 or even 7 Questions to answer in order to get their color Selection. Well, I say, NOT in today's world  !  Therefore, I am going to put together the NEW Killer 18 Questionnaire. Answer this honestly & completely =  your magical answer will appear ... I will list them today & and for the next couple weeks will write a post on each one, so they are in a row- are updated with as new information as there is in the world of color (I can find). I would like to do this so we may move on to other subjects.  The main goal for me are these 3 points:
  • Simple as possible 
  • Clarity for YOU !
  • Pictures to help
 The tricks of the trade in Hair coloring??? There are no tricks....it's all science/chemistry/art & experience. There is no guesswork if you learn THE LEVEL SYSTEM. It comes down to a combination of ART & Science.

  People want me to give them a one word answer for their hair color selection, I would LOVE to be able to do that. But, what I have found out in the years on this Blog? Most of you love hair coloring (I completely understand), and have many layers of color on your hair by the time you find me. That is unfortunate,  as it is the first red-flag in hair color analysis. It changes all the simple Rules, that were designed not too long ago by hair color manufacturers. 

The Killer 18 ...........Questions for hair Selection when you have previous hair color on

  1. Texture & length ?
  2. Length of hair ?
  3. Ethnicity ?
  4. Has hair Been Bleached ?
  5. Porosity ?
  6. Boxed Color? How many?
  7. Percentage of Gray?
  8. What Type of Color is on ...Box? Professional?
  9.  Straightener? Ever?
  10. D.U.R.P. - Dominant-Underlying-Remaining-Pigment ?
  11. Your opinion ...Resistant? or Not?
  12. Virgin Color - Level & Tone ?
  13. Current Color - Level & Tone?
  14. Desired Color - Level & Tone? 
  15. Damage? Extent of, all over or sections
  16. Your age ( ball park only ) '
  17. Your lifestyle
  18.  What is your favorite SHOE ?
I've said this numerous times, but I hope for it to make sense in the "big" picture.
When you have previously colored hair it makes it very difficult to create any new color you desire. The fact that I have told you that the LEVEL SYSTEM is a chart of rules and numbers that one may use to come up with your new perfect formula, only pertains to those with VIRGIN hair. Now THAT my Dear, now-a-days is as rare as a Unicorn. Those rules and system work excellent on someone with virgin hair, but that just isn't that helpful any longer, not when grandma - Grandpa and the DOG !! have their hair colored already!

Just 30-40 years ago, people would go to the Salon with Virgin hair (never colored) ask for a new color...or (mostly) ask to get their gray covered...and they were done. Today, so many of you are lured by the advertising on TV, magazines & right here on the web. Your favorite stars have been paid an obscene amount of money to put on a (virgin!) wig that has been colored by that companies brand of color and smile and lie to you with no regrets or guilt at all. Most of you write and tell me that you grabbed a box of color at the grocery store/drugstore/ or weekly trip to Targeeee(t). Really, since when does the place you purchase the food you feed your children, sell boxes of color that any 11-13-15 year old can purchase and begin the long, downhill, arduous road to damaged hair? This all leads to the problems that end up here at Killerstrands and for which I spend hours trying to figure out ways for you to repair your hair & predict your next hair color choice! Whewwww !!

 Many of you respond to me about VANISH...the hair color REMOVER we carry...."how come no one has heard of this product?" I am asked... "why don't more Stylists use it??". There is a saying that goes something like this: "however goes California...there follows the rest of the country"..its from a history book I was reading. 

There was a smile that hit my face when I read that....and I know it to be true.  My parents are from Michigan, they drove out here while my mother was pregnant with me. Therefore throughout my life I kept in contact with all my cousins in Michigan - we would go back every summer once my Dad made it big. For my entire lifetime we would be doing something out here whether it was a new sport, new games, new food.....anything and my cousins back there had never heard of them. 2 to 5 years later they caught up. I have been puzzled by that my whole life...I mean why? What makes us different out here, and especially in Los Angeles....there must be an answer for that. But that is my only reason on the Vanish question.

Many books & many Colorists, think there are only 4 or 6 or even 7 Questions to answer in order to get the color Selection. I say, NOT in today's world  !  Therefore, I am going to put together the NEW Killer 14 Questions ...I will list them today & and in the next couple weeks will write a post on each one, so they are updated with as new information as there is in the world of color. I will strive for the following:
  •  Simple as possible 
  • Clarity for the layman
  • Pictures to help
Wish me luck !


October 16, 2012

Hair Cuts n Color Trends - Fall 2012

         Hair Cut & Color Fall - 2012

 Hair Jewels of all types and kinds are over-flowing this up-coming season.

 Redheads of every tone and depth are here to stay

 Lavender close-crop

 that is quite the 'fringe'....(bangs) - I encourage everyone to begin using the term fringe,  the  rest of the world does                                                                                                                    
 The inspiration behind this Style was the Stylists favorite sport, can you guess what it is ?
Just like in fashion design or Art, once you become proficient in the art of Hair
 Cutting / Hair Color by Textbook Basics... you begin branching out into uncharted territory... Such as above                                                                                                                                                                                                           

               Checkout these Cross-head  Braids - pretty fantastic don't you think?


October 13, 2012

Universal System of Hair Color - From Level 6 to Level 9

 I have had a few women upset at their results using hair-color lately. I cannot help them because they did not follow the rules of the Universal Level System.... no one wishes it was a free-for-all more than me...I really honestly do, it would make my life so much easier. But it just isn't...they have not discovered how to switch from brown to blond (without removing all your old color first). 

Some of you are saying to yourself : well my Stylist went from brown to blond with highlights on top of highlights on top of  highlights...........well I have never done that & I never would. It destroys your hair ... ruining hair for a very long time. You may not notice right away... remember this term : DD - means Delayed Damage. It doesn't show its ugly head for 8-10-18 months....but I promise you it will using that highlight technique. Now remember everyone, there are always exceptions to the rule in hair coloring - the Level System is devised for the 90% of us that it works on..     
I'm just trying to get through to you that..... you need to take the Red, the brown, the black the purple OUT OF YOUR HAIR first. You must have no color in the hair at all. But this also is not a wonderful choice for this Step by you home hair colorists ... as you will see by the next paragraph...whatever you do........do NOT stop reading at this point.

Let me give out the formula for going from a Level 6/7-VIRGIN color to a nice Level 8.5 - 9/ no brass:  
                         9.02 X.Factor Color + 30Volume    X.Factor Haircolor

The Formula for going from Level 2-3 VIRGIN color to a nice Level 5 - 5.5N/Brown is:
                        7.0 + 7.10 X.Factor Color + 20Volume  

 Both of those formulas are a true knock-out, they really are, but they only work on virgin hair. Because those of you with color on your hair presently - cannot use a nice 9.02 to get a beautiful 8.5 / 9 -- what do you do? 
Remember my line, "Not All Hair can be all colors". 
That will not change the facts...... it simply will not change the chemistry of the Universal Level System.  I can just hear everyone screaming, ''..whattttttt..!? "  across the land. 

For about 20% of the people trying to accomplish this maneuvar  you may try 
After Vanish : 

12.20 (X.Factor) + 40 Volume  or

11.02 + 40Volume 
- depending on your hair porosity it may work - it works nicely I may say, on those 20% !
There is only one other way to achieve blond - post color /post Vanish . . . .that is to use one of our Oil BLEACH KITS & Tone it down to a Level 8. It needs to be strand tested for absolutely sure before you ever think of starting. 

It seems some of you think, that when you found me & my web sites that you could just choose any colors and I had some magical powers for any hair color experiment to work.
Trust me I don't.
What I do have the power to do..........is to, EDUCATE you in the Universal Level System of Hair Color Formatting . . . which by the way is used in over 100 counties, so that is a very very large system. I can't think of another system that covers that much territory ?? (can you?)
Which many of the group members have learned all by themselves........which is incredibly empowering to me..........so I keep going
I challenge YOU to be one of those people too !  Join the group and join the Newsletter, I have been spending a lot of time in both places. Its hard to cover 3 teaching territories in 1 week.

Don't let this discourage you...........if you have questions.........ask them in the group please...
thank you,

                  Killer Chemist
October 9, 2012

Its Not Easy Creating .........Volume !

Well, this is a sweet little product... Let me tell you a few things I like, then you can see what the company says about it. As you may have noticed we don't carry a zillion 'styling products' ... the reason for that is 2-fold:
  1. most of them do not do what they claim
  2. where I live everyone prefers 'natural' hair pretty much

But, when someone stands up for a product in today's world, I take that as a great and most times 'reliable' recommendation. That is why I put that FEEDBACK button in this store......................> .......................................> ....................see it over there?................>> I hope you all will tell me a great product you have used for a while, or a suggestion as to what you would like to 'see' or 'hear' from me. I would greatly appreciate it, now back to the miracle foam. 

This product works wonderfully for root lift, which so many of us need in today's world.  In order to get it 'just on the roots' it comes with a accurate spray nozzle for this thicker type foam that shoots out -  it will take a time or 2 to get used to - but its well worth the little bit of effort. Shake it well and take aim right at your roots (brilliant feature) , this provides that Lift we all seek as well as some hold. For those of you with curls, I think this is a great option - it doesn't have any of that weighing down feeling OR stickiness.
I used this foam with my Velcro roller trick . . . purchase some 2-3-4 inch diameter Velcro rollers, after your shampoo....use Soma Leave-in Detangler comb through..........then wait till it is about 80-90% dry.  People think you need to work on drying the hair when you do not need to invest the time. You can get almost everything you need done the last little bit. Do shake and spray and the roots of every 2 inch section all the way down each side of the hair and then the back. Comb the foam thru 2-3 times then use the roller and roll up your hair finishing the roller off with a silver pronged clip. 
Use the flexible dryer  http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/blow-dryer-deep-hair-conditioning-system  ... to heat up the head and hair.. taking break every few minutes...to let hair cool down.  Once cool & dry take out rollers and let the hair cool down before touching.  Shake it out...brush /comb it out.... and style.... Wait till you see the volume. If its too much which it might very well be... use a comb/brush and brush it 'out'.... Next time put a little less and just get it on the root area, you will figure it out I have faith in you ! That is how we reach heights in hair like this photo. 

Granted that is a very rare OCCASION .. but .. if you use about 1/2 the amount of foam the next time you or even less you can find a happy medium and begin finding a quick and convenient method of using this foam for daily use !

here is the company stats:

uplifting foam details

what it is

Weightless volume-building styling product
Pinpoint delivery system concentrates the spray pattern at the root area for maximum volume and lift away from the scalp

why you should use it

To create maximum lift and volume while blow-drying
Hair will remain soft and pliable yet full of body and bounce
Excellent for create long lasting style retention

when to use it
Spray onto freshly shampooed, towel dried hair

how much to use
Spray generously onto towel dried hair in a zig zag pattern
Spray extra product on the root area to increase the level of lift and volume away from the scalp

how to use it
After applying product, comb through with a fine-tooth comb from roots to ends for even product distribution
Section hair and begin blow styling at the root area, lifting the hair away from the scalp for maximum volume
Work from the roots toward the ends until the entire section is dry
Brush through after hair is completely dry to blend the sections and create fluidity

 Hop on over to the store and purchase a bottle and while you are there? 
PLEASE-- fill out the FEEDBACK button and tell me a subjects or subjects you would like to hear about. . .regarding hair and anything you can possibly think of that interests you. 
No one sees the submissions but, me............
October 3, 2012

If I Channel Marilyn ... Will I Become a Platinum Goddess? ?

Everyone Should Try Platinum ............. Once in Life !

That was a little sign over my station in the Salon. There is only one "supposed" rule of who shouldn't go platinum - although I have found exceptions to the rule. The rules say "Redheads" - born Redheads should never turn platinum. I can tell you from 1st hand experience that statement held true-to-life. I still remember my daughter saying as I ran into the gym to watch her play volleyball : "you look bald". Yep, she is as straightforward (& at times - as shocking) as me! In 24 hours I was back to being red ! But, I will say there are Virgin redheads that have darker skin ... that actually 'tans'.....and they have conned me into turning them a Platinum Goddess, they turned out gorgeous. Virgin Redheads are only 1% of the entire population, so there are a helluva lot of you out there that "do" get to don the magnificent. 

I am so jealous of you all !

 I have finally realized that there just is no way to reach the entire female population about the health of their hair........

I have decided to offer some of the present items we carry exclusively to Hair Stylists at discounted prices.......do not worry,  it is not a ridiculous amount of savings.... but decent enough to, I hope, INSPIRE hair stylists across the country to use this and only this type of super lightening on your customers from now on.   


Because when you do an excellent job on that head of hair IN YOUR chair.......she will send you a zillion other clients.......their hair will speak FOR you - you will never have to market yourself...I never did. My talent spoke for itself .
It will be a 'walking' business card and it will be Your work that will inspire people to walk up to your client and ask the age-old question ......... "Who did Your Hair?"

 I am going to make this a no-frills version...........NO Directions ( buy 1 higher priced for the public VERSION for that, if you have never used one !) Each container will have a name as to what is inside. But, that's it. No gloves - No measuring cup - no caps. Just the product, you should have the rest if you are a professional.

I encourage everyone using an "on-the-scalp" lightener to use InTENSIVE for a minimum of 30 minutes after lightening....rinse and use a toner.... If you purchase a toner, you may choose from ANY toners we carry  - -  if you move to the toner page I have added some of the great new toners I recommend .

 We have thousands of hairstylists as members of Killerstrands, and while I did not want this to be a teaching aide for them, there isn't too much I can do about it, with a Free Open Blog
I just have to give in and hope it benefits me & YOU in another way...

BEFORE YOU ORDER the First time (from this page).........                                                                                                                  
  please > Fax  A COPY of your COSMO License to Killerstrands Hair Clinic with a Cover page saying names of people who will be ordering. 805.987.0973
After you order the first time you will be given a code to use for all further orders.

It is a different page than the one for the public so here is the link: 
I am going to make this a no-frills version...........NO Directions ( buy the higher priced for the public VERSION for that !) Each container will have a name as to what is inside. But, that's it. No gloves - No measuring cup - no caps. Just the product, you should have the rest if you are truly a professional. I encourage everyone using an "on-the-scalp" lightener to use In.tensive for a minimum of 30 minutes after lightening....rinse and use a toner.... If you purchase a toner, you may choose from ANY toners we carry - - if you move to the toner page I have added some of the great new toners I recommend . 

Who Needs Their Hair Toned?