June 17, 2017

Bleaching for Rainbows : Dark Hair Yearns to Be Blonde, the Absolute Safest Way - Zero Damage

I Apologize Brunettes But BLONDE'S 
Rule the Air Waves & Social Media

This week a bombardment of you who have very dark hair ( Level 1-4)  just insist on wanting to be Blonde. I get it and I understand but if you will follow my preaching in this very long and laborious Blog - you can be platinum as well

If you were in my chair I would weigh you out . . .  spend 10 minutes trying to talk you into enjoying the glory of dark hair and giving you other tricks you could do, but those tricks are better left to the pro's, remember I like to teach here the color jobs that I believe all of you can handle and also will be thrilled with the results. The side effect is achieving healthy hair at the same time and is my #1 Concern & the THE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR.

I also have experienced those who are dead set on it and if I don't help them they will just keep going until they achieve that crown of platinum glory they have dreamed of since being a small child. So this is for those of you who fit into that category...



 ( the phrase derived from turning dark hair ---> platinum ) - so not only it is required to receive touch-ups - it can be taxing on your wallet. The only way many can handle the look is by turning into a Crib Colorist and going "FOR IT" ! ! 

I will give you 10 Don'ts in this process and if you decide to go ahead you must read all posts on this Blog regarding subject matter and I promise if every single question is not answered you can text me at the store's number and I will answer it. (if its complicated then you must send your Killer 18 questions with your question - ( just GOOGLE the Killer 18 questions)........
  1.  DO NOT USE POWDERED LIGHTENER/BLEACH - - - - which is where I feel all the damage comes from in lightening hair!  There is no need to, cream lighteners exist. I don't like any of them so had to make our own and then I learned to tint it a rich blue/velvet which helps with 1 less bleaching application AND removal of brass/gold. Ours is a Cream & oil based Bleach, not just Cream like everyone else and I use a very special triad of oils, that make the hair shine afterward.
  2. NEVER use any bleach/lightener to remove OLD 'previous'  hair color, that is not at all what it is made for, the single biggest mistake Stylists make, to me.  Use a Color Remover.
  3. DO NOT try this unless you are fully educated on the process, it is the single most tricky color to get right. I see celebrities all the time with yellow hair and it just makes my skin crawl. 
  4. Never think 1 Lightening session is going to be all you have to do. If you are a Level 9 VIRGIN hair with Zero color on it, you would be the only one pretty much that can get away with 1 bleaching session. It runs the gamut from 2-12. ! Yep 12 boxes of VANISH means you most likely have 15 boxes of old black hair color on your hair for years and the highest numbers of boxes I sold to a woman like that was 13!  But, you never heard a happier person when complete. This is a one time procedure and you will learn so much, it will never happen again!
  5.  If your hair is 2 feet long I would not suggest this procedure at all. Yes, it can be done but most people with that long of hair do not really want to cut it, the shorter hair the better. I mean this one seriously.
  6.  Do not think that you must buy 5-8 boxes of VANISH to remove your old hair color, I fully realize how expensive it is. One of your biggest mistakes would be NOT reading about the (1) Shampoo Train  (2) Malibu DDL Lifter Packet (3) Wella's RENEW Color Remover(4) Malibu CPR Remover.........are all valid measures to removing old hair color. The goal? do it as gently as possible. Even going in a pool with chlorine is a nice help - don't over due obviously! 
  7. Don't think for a minute if you have thin hair this isn't for you, this IS for you . . . it is what so many celebs with famously thin hair do, ( they just wear $100,000. wigs on the movie screens! ) Truly ! Look at Renee Zellwager, Julianne Hough, Michele Ledger Williams, Charlize Theron....all have naturally thin hair. Lightener kind of blows out the cuticle and makes it appear thicker and it sure will handle and style better! 
  8. NEVER -EVER - EVER apply the lightener just willy-nilly all over the head, that is not how it is done, you MUST invest in proper tools and we sell them cheap, on purpose. Divide head in quadrants. Take each section at a time. Purchase a wall mirror ( home depot) where you can see the back of your head while you apply it is weird at first, but you will become a pro sooner rather than later. Think of hair color sort of like cooking.......both are science really. If you follow the rules and do things in the proper order, its a "piece-of-cake"! 
  9. DO NOT take short-cuts, if that is what you want to do, this procedure isn't for you. There are NONE allowed. Remember this big first procedure is only done once! The idea is to get all of the hair platinum 1st and then its not that bad.... if you think about it....every 4-8 weeks all you need is 1 of the 2 applications that come in our Kit to retouch roots. I always suggest starting with the pro Kit, I know its expensive but hey, pay for it over 6 months through PAY PAL...........it will assure you have enough product, and most likely will end up with enough to do your roots for another 6 months minimum (depending on many various factors that is - length of hair, texture, porosity, denseness, etc..)
Last but not least my 2 favorite pet peeves: (1) Never EVER apply Bleach to the roots first, it will ALWAYS be the last place you apply it (heat from head makes it process faster than rest of hair - thus the term "hot roots" you may have heard of) Finally, the key to this whole thing working out properly is being sure you have applied the lightener enough times, you want the hair to be yellow free enough, where if you do not want to apply a Toner it will look beautiful as well. But with all the Toners out these days, I can tell you its a whole lotta fun to experiment. So do NOT forget to apply lightener, process 65-70 minutes, remove only by rinsing ( no shampoo) dry and check color. Bleach must be applied on dry hair, so you will see the color after each lightening.
I hope this finds you well and I very much appreciate all the love and prayers everyone has sent me - they are working
But as you can see I am up and roaring again ( just a bit slower and more carefully) - 
Watch for new things once again and we have a FACEBOOK GROUP (which I am looking for a moderator for - -  just to work with me - - anyone interested?)
(Please TEXT/or call the store phone number)  
and am considering opening the old group up again. Lots of you remain with many questions for me to answer. 
Bleachin For Rainbows .............KC

June 6, 2017

How To Use BOOST & BURST - PROPERLY - 25% OFF - 4 days - 6/6/17 to 6/10/17

We have a 25% OFF BOOST & BURST : 6/6/17 to 6/10/17  - use code below when checking out - SALE for BLOG READERS ONLY ! ! !

Code: WhatHappenedToKC

 I have many a phone call on this subject so its time to put it in words for everyone.

I Received this Review of BOOST & BURST today, which I do on a weekly basis ....but the way she put her Review in words was so awesome, it really warmed my heart and made me feel like the work I do is appreciated.

So, Thank You Jessica . . .  
your Review means the world to me and I hope it helps the rest of you understand how the line works. 
 To use Boost it is like any other color-depositing shampoo only our pigment is stronger darker and lasts longer.

BURST is the Gold mine though. Just shampoo, rinse, towel dry, apply BURST for 20-40 minutes, ( you also can apply 5 minutes in every shower like my 86 year mom does she loves silver bullet!) 
Use with the free cap you get or even better and faster purchase the bonnet hair dryer we have, use heat or even sit in the sun Heat makes color last longer! ! ! . rinse, and use INTENSIVE TO LOCK IT IN. The colors we have can erase Brass/gold in brown hair ( H'Ash Brown - BURST) .............accentuate SILVER in White or Silver HAIR or EVEN turn Hair Silver that is Blonde ( SILVER BULLET) ...........Spark up Copper hair (killer Copper 2) OR FOR Hispanics WE EVEN HAVE A TERRIFIC COLOR THAT RIDS YOUR HAIR OF orange ! ! ! (Cafe Azul) 
For those with Rose Gold Hair, our Angel Rose is a true Rose Color, not pink and not red, true Rose !

Remember the best part of Boost Burst and Blast is they come completely out, no residue................and you change colors or use 2...........the colors you can create are endless. Or the fact that you can make your grays hold off for another couple weeks with it....is one of its biggest hidden treasures.

Another one?
Trying to remove old color and color your hair the proper way?
Going through the process ( read every post I have written on "hair color removal") of removing old crappy box color or crappy color someone used on you. Please DO IT THE PROPER way and use BURST for during the week while at work and it does not diminish or affect the color removal process at ALL! But it lets you go through the entire color Removal process the proper way and still show up to work properly (meanwhile!).

Our biggest success of all is our BLAST - metallic conditioners, with our 2 newest additions:
  1. Cochella Rose - these are made with metallic MICA but we add micro mini STARS + Hearts  + lightning Bolts and all sorts of interesting shapes in metallic 
  1. SXSW Silver   - Metallic Silver , made with 3 silvers, and a sparkle you have never seen before,....plus we add shapes to this one as well - they are micro-mini ( and very expensive!) but I have had them and thought - "HEY'' ...why not ?!?!?!?

What happened to KC on APRIL 29, 2017:

This is KC 
 1st of all I apologize deeply FOR ANY DELAYS & OR mistakes of the past 5 weeks, please take a minute and read.  . . . . . .

On April 29, 2017 I lapsed into a coma for 6 days and very very slowly woke up the 7th day finally, unaware of what had happened, why I was there or what year it was. It took me -- 2 weeks to remember what year it was! I had a massive heart attack with 20% of my heart remaining functioning when all was said and done and they tell me now I basically died and came back to life ! ( Talk about a good excuse!) 
Killerstrands is my baby ! Of course I have people to help . . . but I am the business and the business is me - so things went into massive confusion and no one was running it for 3 1/2 weeks....this happened the day AFTER the 10year BIRTHDAY SALE - BOY what a Time for a heart to crap out!
I just last week got out of the Hospital after I threw a fit that I at least had to have a computer. Well, even when I got one I have not been well enough to return to work but for  1-2 hours a day. I am soooooooo very sorry , so many of you understood -- but there are many I have not been able to explain what happened.  Against advice........... I decided to write you and explain.

I am trying my hardest to recover quickly, but it is not so easy as other medical problems I face. 10's of thousands of you count of me daily & weekly for hair and education and for the 1st time in 10 years I have not been there and for that I sincerely apologize. .
As silly as that may sound, I completely understand how HAIR can make or break a person's day. .. so for all of you I am pushing myself and demanding things happen faster than anyone else seems to think they should -- in order for me to be well and get back to work.
I am currently attached to an exterior defibrillator so if it happens again it will shock my heart back to life.....which that itself is driving me nuts!
This whole thing has been a friggin nightmare and I have received emails about mistakes and delays - I apologize profusely - - - but in this particular instance it truly was unavoidable. When well......... I will send out another email Blast that will incorporate the freebies I have in store for you, but it is too soon, I'm afraid.(soon-soon)
I have avoided putting this info on the Blog as I have listened to others advice about not mixing business with pleasure. But, I decided myself tonight, to post this notice... I feel as I've ''got this'' NOW.. its just going to take longer than my 'will' and I & you must be patient. I'm at work while shipments are going out and for anyone with a problem or question, please TEXT our Store phone number as that is me and only me.
I hope you understand and I know what a loyal and wonderful customers you have all been, please stay with us.... 
I need YOU now more than I EVER HAVE ! ! ! !
I sincerely hope you understand.
warmest regards,

May 15, 2017

Blonds with Benefits:

Want to go from Dark Brown Hair to a Lighter Color? Here’s 1 way and there are a couple! 

hair color 354536
Below was a question posted in a magazine, that ruffled my tint brush - - so I decided to make a post out of it! Many Group members still are confused on this brown to blond application, so I will be bringing it up from time to time as I have in the past . . hoping one of my many explanations - - sinks in. This is also a situation that many would head to a hair stylist for, which as the article shows……… hair stylists can make mistakes ( big ones) all the time – just like the public. The only thing I can do is present the various techniques and let you decide. My suggestions are almost always not the norm you will hear or see. So please consider them first I always choose the procedure that will be the most gentle on the hair FIRST….. ALWAYS - - - - - ALWAYS ! . . .      image0 
Whatever you do from now on . . . do not just let a Hair Stylist do whatever she wants, always ask her the plan of attack. Become an active member in the decisions of your hair color procedures, either by researching or reading. Even when I was in the top Salon in Malibu, CA. for years, I would see Stylists all around me doing the technique as described in the above add.. 
It is not proper etiquette to ‘teach” or even to make suggestions in the Salon . Which is why… in every single Salon you will ever go to there will be one or two Stylists that are just so much better than the rest. Before I got into this crazy business, I used to wonder ‘why’ if they had a couple great Colorists or Cutters….why didn’t the rest of the Stylists catch up or learn from the 1 or 2 that were so ahead of the game ??  Well, that is just not how it works in Hair Salon etiquette.   
Many just don’t understand the fact that bleach (lightener) really was not made to remove old hair color. It was formulated to lighten the hair strands themselves. In the most rare of conditions or when the area you want to lighten is very small like ‘the fringe’  then yes I would agree with a (very) small application of it but not like this particular question where she and many of you want to go all-over lighter.

haircolor app.9

I want to dispel the answer given here and the idea laid out to you by some hair Stylists that they just do not have your hair’s best interest in mind. If you are a hair stylist I can promise you if you put your clients hair’s health as your number 1 concern and teach them tricks to help them keep it that way in between appointments with you…. you will have a client for life. Or if you are a Crib Colorist this will get you thinking of the proper direction you should head to lighten your hair and keep the healthy shiny hair everyone should have. There are many posts in the history of this BLOG for any additional information you may need as well. This is a little different than most hair blogs, as “education” is our main goal here. Many times I wish I just had a very light and easy blog . . . where I threw a photo up of a cool hair style and wrote a paragraph and was done. But no one was teaching hair correctly and I wanted to “gift” the women (and men) of America with the knowledge I have. 

If you have a subject you want to hear about please email me at Killerstrands.info@gmail.com with the SUBJECT: Hair Education Topic Idea for KC…I will have my crew forward them to me and i will write about it . . . . be sure to be clear on what you have questions about so I can continue to help! ! !

Hair Coloring is an Art of Chemistry if you were to analyze how to be a great Colorist- - - learning specific basics of chemistry just truly do help. Whomever wrote this answer, did not fully understand the chemistry of Hair Color - - or could be so overly anxious in trying to acquire customers they neglected the choice that would be the healthiest for the clients hair. I want to educate those of you who want the choice that: a) leaves the hair the healthiest or b) those that want to be able to tell their Stylists exactly what you want done

blond article 00007

“Tint” being the perfect and most appropriate term for the actual cream that comes out of the tube that you mix with Developer to produce the haircolor tint you apply to the head.. I try to teach as if you were in a strange form of a Cosmetology Class.

Now back to why you can’t apply new hair color on top of old hair color to lighten it. . . .the answer ? ? Because Tint is just not made to “lighten” previously applied tint

or Hair color just cannot lighten old hair color

….the technology is just not there yet. Maybe someday.................
 although they have been working on it for 40 years….so, don’t hold your breath. Once there is tint on the hair, hair-color cannot be used to lighten the hair.

Once virgin (non-colored) hair has been darkened (or lightened) by any hair color at all, it is NO LONGER considered virgin hair . It has now moved into the next category referred to as “colored” or “tinted” hair. Therefore the girl in the ad had tinted hair darker brown and then wanted to go lighter…. with that being the case yes, you can use bleach but doing it that way is more damaging to the hair.
The bleach doesn’t remove the dark brown color it burns through it.
Following the process of burning through the darker layers of hair color the bleach finally reaches the hair strand itself and then lightens what was intended to be lightened - - the hair itself. Only when there is no other option would I use bleach to lighten ‘black’, ‘dark brown’ ‘brown’ or any darker tinted hair.
A frequent mistake made by many home (crib) colorists AND Hair Stylists is each and every time they re-touch their hair ( touch up the roots) they apply the tint to not only the new growth but also the entire head of hair & process both for the entire 60 – 75 minutes.… huge HUGE mistake. Tint on top of Tint on top of Tint makes for dull – knotty – yucky –  melding into a black mess of hair. If the “ends or the “lengths” of the haircolor need refreshing… there is another way to accomplish this… so the entire head of hair remains shiny and healthy looking.
The proper way for her to go lighter with that description is to Vanish the color out of the hair. Vanish is a hair color remover, that works without bleach – without peroxide – without any damaging  ingredients….it simply reverses the way the color came into the hair molecularly…..by reversing the the molecular process.   here is a link :  http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/vanish-color-remover  .
Once Vanish has been applied from 1-6 applications which all depends on the color you want to be. You may recolor in many different manners….you can go lightest brown with blond slices a la Jen Anniston….or whatever your heart desires. Using Vanish keeps image1the bonds of the hair strong. With the hair strong and light with the darker Tint gone, you have a healthy base to re-color a lighter color even if you only want a lighter overall color you will be abel . . . method keeps the hair strong – healthy – & shiny.

The Level bobble heads990
The 12 Levels of the LEVEL  SYSTEM 

March 22, 2017

6 New Colors by Wella - Koleston Perfect + Color Touch - Mineral Desert Shades

Wella has Added Some Gorgeous New Shades

In both Permanent & Demi

Love it when new colors arrive, wish even more would show-up sometimes

Koleston Perfect - permanent colors has added 3 new colors : 
10/97 ............ 8/97 ..................& 6/97 
These are beautiful colors ---- based on desert...& mineral shades

 Color Touch Demi-permanent colors -  are just another level down which work perfectly with the Koleston colors
9/97 .......7/97.........& 5/97

March 20, 2017

Fight Color-Fade ( Learn Why Color Application is Uneven? ? ?) - - the POWER of pH !

 Fight Color-Fade ! Prolong Hair Color With the Power of pH

pH value is between 0 and 14, a pH value of 7.0 is considered neutral; all values below neutral are acidic and all values above are alkaline. An acidic solution has a positive electrical charge (+), and an alkaline solution has a negative electrical charge (-).

Healthy Hair Vs. Damaged Hair
Normal, healthy hair has a pH value of between 4.5 and 5.5 and is therefore considered acidic. Hair in this state will be positively charged (+) and has a compact cuticle structure. 

The outside cuticle layer is closed and smooth, promoting a natural, healthy shine. The internal cortex is protected, and moisture levels are maintained, ensuring good strength and elasticity. 
Healthy hair has even, normal porosity and provides a good base for chemical services.... therefore your goal should ALWAYS be to have the healthiest HAIR ... POSSIBLE.
 I know it sounds odd, but to cure and repair hair you must replace lipids. The ultimate way to replace lipids is to apply pure high quality oils. Which is why I am always shouting the advantages of GLEAM, our own pure oils from nature product. . . . . .Therefore : Apply Gleam - sleep with it in the hair or even better is to use the Travel Bonnet Hair Dryer.
Damaged hair has a pH value above 7.0 and is negatively charged (-). 
The cuticle layer is raised with a dull/matt surface. 
The raised cuticle layer can catch, resulting in tangled hair with a high susceptibility to mechanical damage – caused by combing or other external influences. In addition, the cortex will be exposed to further damage, in danger of losing essential moisture and becoming dry or brittle. 
( Below is a sentence that may apply to all the questions I receive about "uneven hair color application" . . . .)
Damaged hair will be very porous and provides a poor surface for chemical treatments, with potentially uneven results.

I have this problem sometimes because I have always had porous hair, you 'can' be born with it, or you can 'create it'  - - - but it can be solved by a vigorous regimen of deep over-nite hair masks....GLEAM OIL Treatments........& laying off the heat appliances. 

(I'm talking to myself here as well so don't think things are lovely & rosey here at Killerstrands headquarters.... just because I know how to fix and color hair. Sometimes I get lazy ( right now) and then boom my hair reverts back to its shitty/lousy /'natural' texture - which is why I feel I have learned how to fix others hair.  My virgin texture is crap, so it needs care all the damn time. 

 I have to keep up the routine day in and day out.....AND DON'T THINK i DON'T CARE ABOUT THE PRICE OF ALL THIS STUFF BECAUSE I ... DO ! !

pH and Products
 As the majority of hair products are 'supposed to be' a solution, and therefore have a pH value, it follows that this can or cannot influence the condition of hair. I encourage everyone to keep an eye out for pH Value's on products, its the most important facts that should be printed on the bottle - yet it rarely is.

Chemical treatments, such as a lightener, perms or colors, are deliberately alkaline, or have a pH value higher than the hair’s natural value. This causes the cuticle layer to open up, allowing the product to enter the inner hair structure. It is therefore essential to thoroughly rinse the hair following a chemical process and apply a good re-structuring conditioner         ( INTENSIVE & THRIVEN )

Whereas, hair care products are predominantly acidic, and have an astringent effect on the hair, closing the cuticle layer. Shampoos will typically have a pH value close to the hair’s natural level, promoting gentle cleansing. Conditioners and treatments however, have a higher acid value, helping to return damaged, hair back to a normal, healthy condition.
When hair is colored, the pH increases from an optimum value of 4.5 – making it more alkaline and during color development, the outer and inner hair structure is loosened up in order for color pigments to penetrate the hair. For this reason a conditioner or treatment after a color service helps to reset the hair to the optimum pH value of 4.5.

What is the pH of the Hair and Scalp?

Maintaining the correct pH value of the hair & scalp is essential for the overall health of hair. Hair products can control the pH of hair.
What is Neutral pH?
A pH of 7 is chemically neutral. Hair care products with a pH value in between 3.5 and 5.5 are considered beneficial for hair care products.

Variations in pH
When pH value drops below 6.0 the cuticle layer contracts and tightens. A mild acidic conditioner (lower than pH 7) can help to add shine to the hair, as a smooth surface is able to reflect more light; strong acids will however damage the hair. Acid conditioners should not be used when red/orange tones have been added to the hair, instead use a color-specific care range.

When pH value becomes more alkaline (above 7.0) the cuticle layer softens and expands like a pinecone. This is necessary as part of the coloring process in order to deposit pigments within the hair structure, however if the pH becomes too alkali, damage will occur. Also many form products make use of the effect of alkali pH values on hair.

Hair with a very alkaline, porous structure will not retain color effectively. In this instance the cuticle will fail to hold the new pigments, which will ultimately rinse out prematurely.

You can help prevent damage and keep the hair looking fantastic and pH balanced.

In this post we explore how to understand and care for, the typical range of hair and scalp types.

The sebaceous gland plays an important role in determining hair and scalp type. The production of sebum is a natural process that adds strength and lustre to the hair strand. However, diet, blood circulation, emotional distress and drugs and the aging process can all influence production. Salon products are designed specifically to compliment individual needs and work toward producing strong, healthy, naturally beautiful hair. Hair and Scalp types fall into the following broad categories:


Over-active sebaceous glands produce an excess quantity of sebum, which can make hair limp and lank. This may be due to hormonal changes, often evident during puberty or menopause. Many people have a naturally oily scalp, which can result in greasy hair. Fair hair is much finer than dark hair, hence is more susceptible to excess oil.

High quality - SULFATE-FREE shampoos cleanse without stripping the hair of essential moisture and nutrients.

Dry hair looks dull and lifeless and is also more susceptible to breakage. Dry hair can only be stretched 15% of its overall length before breaking, while healthy hair can be stretched up to twice this amount, more when wet! A common cause of dry hair is dehydration; water retention can measure between 4 and 13% of overall hair volume.

A change in lifestyle can make all the difference, and there are many products available to help nourish the cortex and smooth cuticles...beginning with GLEAM. Gleam is a little bottle of magic if you ask me - it has fixed more problems on my clients than any other 1 product we carry. It maddens me that there are so many "copy-cat" oils out there, that everyone thinks all OILS are the same. You can't find an oil on the market place that does not have silicone in it, but GLEAM has none of that type of thing , it is 100% Oils from Nature!

Normal Hair
Normal hair is shiny, supple and good looking and is the result of a well-balanced, healthy lifestyle, combined with good hair care using the right products.

Mixed Condition
Over-active sebaceous glands and poor scalp condition may create a glut of sebum; this can be absorbed back into the scalp, preventing essential oils from traveling the length of the hair strand. The scalp in this condition is a common cause of Pityriasis steatoides.

Pityriasis steatoides is more severe case of dandruff characterized by an accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales, mixed with sebum, that stick to the scalp to the scalp in crusts. When accompanied by redness and inflammation the medical term is seborrheic dermatitis, which I have seen GLEAM cure more than a dozen times, along with the Scalp Scrub and the Malibu Scalp treatment pack.

. Mixed condition hair types have dry, frizzy ends that are prone to breaking, with oily roots. In this scenario application techniques are very important when applying products to ensure the problem area is targeted. 

March 10, 2017

Pretty in Platinum - The Advantages of Becoming Blonde in 2017 { A Shopping List for Turning Blonde - Via the Healthiest Method }

A great idea just came my way via a multitude of questions regarding one particular subject, by many calls regarding the exact same subject. All in the same week

I can always tell when Spring is near, even if I had no idea when it was, this same thing happens year after year. Its amazing to me that people associate lightening their hair with Spring or a SEASON ....it fascinates me. That may be because being a born and bred tomboy from L.A. ...... I have lived in the most boring weather on planet earth all my life, I know - I know many people think this place is the closest thing to NIRVANA, but I beg to differ with every single one of you. I lived in the mountains at 9,000 feet for nearly 10 years and THAT was exciting, actually paying attention to the weather because it 'mattered' in your livelihood - not L.A. you can pretty much assume it will be sunny and warm most days of the year including Christmas  . . .  super duper BBBBBORING & terrible for the climate change problems we are encountering as well ! So everyone is on the "how to become a blonde train and I want to make it very very easy for you.

I can promise you if you go to Sally's and listen to the Bullshit they feed you that comes straight from corporate's mouth, you will end up looking for a website like ours very soon afterward. How do I know? You guys all tell me so

If you go to a Salon , it takes a highly trained Colorist to perform a "healthy".... "bleach & tone (as the process is called). Many try and many fail. If you want to go this route, be SURE YOU FIND SOMEONE who has a portfolio of photos full of brass-free blondes. There is not a reason in Hell that any Colorist today should not have a full portfolio of hundreds of photos of their work. They do not need a professional photographer for this, not when every single one of you is walking around with a 8G Camera attached to your phone that can be used inside of 20 seconds every single time a client leaves.

 If they don't have a portfolio full of their OWN work with NO ONE Else's name attached - of at least 40 heads of blonde hair that is just what you want......Thank them and leave. DO...NOT....BE...ANYONE'S...GUNIEA PIG for BLONDING....unless you are desperate - broke or a bit off your rocker ! Do something else if you cannot afford it, otherwise you will have one big mess on your hands and it takes a very long time to come back from a mess of this kind -- I promise you I have had to cut inches off of peoples hair with blonding gone wrong.

How to become a brass-free....healthy + shiny haired ...tow-Head ?

 I am always happy to map out this road for you....but it hit me today to help even more people who are passing by quickly as well as you Crib Colorists . . . trying to accomplish this - by making a SHOPPING LIST in 1 post. Now I will have something to point to and Know that  you have all been given the proper directions. 

I really worry about that because I know everyone has ended up here after some tiny or gigantic screw up by someone..... Killerstrands has become the landing page for Hair Color Correction in about every sense of the word and every color imaginable..  

To become a brass-free..........healthy & shiny haired......... beautiful Blonde BOMBSHELL - coming from a brunette who has been coloring  and covering up her gray for many years, well that is not something that can be answered in a few sentences.

Not if you want it to come out correctly.  blonding exactly as a highly paid Hair Colorist would do  - - - needs a whole Post and some links for you, to find everything. Most of you that inquire have the exact same set of history that you are starting from so we will go with that for this Post. If you have a different set of statistics then you will need to either make a comment at bottom.....email me.....(or our new method of getting answers from me - TEXTING) .....or call if you really  want to start on this project as soon as possible. 

 Being blonde is where the term "HIGH MAINTENANCE" was formed, so if you have no interest in anything high maintenance, I would suggest changing your goal.  This is a high maintenance operation - when I was in the Salon ( its been many years now...but I charged $750.) my colleagues today are charging well over $1000. The way we do it at the top......... most often it is at least a 2-day affair...........It can be 2 days in a row or 2 days apart within the same week, it simply depends on the issues and people schedules. The statistics we are working with for these directions are the following:

The directions for a bleach and tone are completely different if you have VIRGIN Hair color or if you have previously colored hair in a Level 6 or darker. So this Post is aimed at a person who has the following issues with their hair presently
Virgin Level hair Color: Level 1-8,
Gray percentage: 0 - 90% &
Previous Hair Color on hair in any level 1-9  

Today the big advantage of having  brass-free - healthy Blond hair is ............ you have a gigantic range of pastel colors that you can either wear or shampoo out. So the fun and the excitement I hear from people all day every day....has given me a whole new insight into the advantages of being Blond in the year 2017!

Killerstrands alone has over 40 amazing colors in the various products like BOOST + BURST + BLAST + BLASTED - which are tinted hair conditioners, shampoos that  and have PIGMENT and or MICA dissolved in them......you can actually have one color in the daytime.................and a completely different color at night time, because you SHAMPOOED the one from the daytime out then put the other one in yourself (its so fricken easy!) -- with absolutely ZERO damage, because the hair color is in the hair conditioner....which makes it come out 100% .................by simply SHAMPOOING IT ! !

  The admiration of platinum locks also stems from years of adulation on lightened tresses. I happen to believe the reason everyone wants lightened locks, stems from how rare it is in natural hair. The # 1 hair color in the world id black! So, this is the complete opposite, its the "grass is always greener"  theory to some extent.
There is a very teeny tiny percentage of VIRGIN BLOND adults walking around, the number is under, way under 10% even !. Sure there is a decent amount of little kids with blond hair, but as we all know as they age and at the very latest when puberty sets in............. those blonde locks have darkened to at least a level 8, if not a lot darker.

In order to be on the same page when we speak about hair color in levels as I have shown you many times before here, below is a Level Chart. The Level Chart coincides with the Level System of Hair Color, which is a scientific protocol of how to properly formulate hair color, this chart enables you and I  to speak in "levels", so then it makes it easier for me to help you. If you said "dark brown hair and I said it, we would both talking about completely different colors. This system keeps everyone on the same page.

The Level system is in place worldwide so it is not a tiny thing us Californians came up with  ! Know these 3 particular Levels about your own hair to make your next color adventure successful.....and especially if you want to go Blond along with us as we make up your shopping List

  You need to know these 3 levels:
  1. The Level of your Virgin Hair________
  2. Level of your Current hair ________ (99% of you have hair color on your hair - the fact is pretty likely it is a different color than your virgin.) and lastly 
  3. The Level YOU DESIRE ____! 
Use this chart for those answers:

The reason so many questions need to be asked, (I ask you to answer the Killer 18 Questions which you may "GOOGLE") before I will help you. I want to give me the 'right' answer, not just an answer to sell something. I'm too old for that shit....I am more into giving you the correct answer for YOUR problem than anything.  I don't do that to sound like a big-shot.......I do it because it is the one and only way I can legitimately analyze how you can achieve your goal in your hair color adventure....especially if you are going blond. The most challenging of all hair color formula's.

 The reason so many questions are needed is because there is one set of rules for going Blonde if you have :
  1. Hair That is VIRGIN ( never been colored) and another set for:
  2. Hair That is Colored...and even another set of rules for :
  3. Hair That is Brassy Blonde - desires brass-free blond - which is the only way to go really.
This particular post is for -- "going Blonde for those with color on your hair "--  whether it is Crazy colors (any brand),  Demi-Permanent color ( any brand) or permanent Color (any brand).

This might seem crazy to you, but I am just going to make the entire shopping List, for going from Point a to Point Z...............after that I will explain things if I feel they need it.

 #1.) Color Removal. - Everyone dislikes this step, I even dislike it as it is tedious and non-rewarding as a Colorist. But this step is absolutely essential which 80% of hair stylists simply do not give credit to............nor do they perform. I hope all of you Stylists who read my Blog will consider adding this step to your lists of services, it is a great service and removing old hair color is one of the KEYS to having Blond hair look shiny/happy/healthy when finished ! 

For those of you at home, my Crib colorists.............you MUST remove all of the old hair color..........if not all .......close to "all". The absolute best and most thorough way to accomplish this is by purchasing 3-4-5 (I've had people purchase 8 Kits of the product called VANISH ! - (she had pitch black waist length hair & had been coloring her hair that way for 20 years WITH BOXED HAIR COLOR ! ! !  

Most hair stylists across the country use BLEACH to remove old hair color .............. BIG .... BIGGER ....GIGANTIC MISTAKE.  The #1 goal here is to have healthy shiny blonde hair.............anyone can have dry damaged-- breaking off -- blonde hair. Just apply bleach leave it on forever and boom you have dry-damaged breaking off BUT BLONDE hair. that soon you will have to cut off.

Hair Color Remover is used for removing color ..................
Bleach is used for Lightening hair.
Follow those first 2 Rules and you will at least START your blonding adventure on the right foot.

There are only 4 methods that you can use to remove hair color that will keep your hair healthy.Any short-cuts or products not on this list, will ruin your hair, I was the hair color remover queen fopr Malibu for 10 years, its a weird thing to be popular for, but it eventually pays off. Why?
Because slowly - very slowly people learn why it has to be done that way.

  • #1.Shampoo Train - A little method I came 
  • up with for people who change their color often ( models, rich people, teens, artists, retiree's,poor people who want to be blonde not a good idea btw.,etc..). Process involves using a whole bottle of cheap -crappy shampoo with lots of Sulfates inside - PRELL is on of the best. Shampoo hair - rubbing suds into lengths adding more shampoo creating gigantic lather + clip-up hair on top of head . ADD plastic or even better FOIL Cap. let process for 1-2-3-4 hours....rinse and repeat.  Read posts on Shampoo Train  .
  • #2. VANISH -color remover - This is the single best product on the market. It is the most effective the least damaging and if I had my choice this would be all anyone used. Disadvantage? Its expensive. Of course everything wonderful comes with a
    price. You can use VANISH up to 4 times in 1 day and if we needed to do hair color for an event this would always be what we would use. it works the best if you remove the color one day and on another day you lighten it. But, that is not mandatory especially when using VANISH. Why is this such a miracle product?
    ...it reverses the manner in which the hair color got into your strands to begin with, by shrinking the molecules so they may slip back out the strand the same way they came in and that my dear friends is the single most gentle and effective way of removing the color you MUST remove in order to become that banging BLOND you have in mind ! In almost every case, 1 box in not enough. Read up about Vanish color remover - PLEASE
  • #3 Wella Color RENEW - Packets that when mixed with the activator will take out a large portion of your hair color. This product is brand new, it came out 8 days ago and I have not tried it but I have read and studied all about it and have full confidence in it. I have always felt that a combination of all 4 of these methods is your best bet for color removal, so go pile some shitty shampoo on your head right this minute because
    honestly you can start this process this very minute you need nothing but shitty shampoo for the Shampoo Train and that gives you a head start, people always remark, that they are shocked at how much color comes out with that method alone. It also teaches you the power of a crappy shampoo. I would start with one of these packets..........then move onto VANISH. If you have lots of Crazy colors in your hair I would use more than 1 of these packets, or the Malibu CPR or DDL PACKETS...I am imagining that they and the color RENEW are almost one in the Same.
  • #3 MALIBU C - COLOR PIGMENT REDUCER or CPR packet.......or DDL packet DIRECT DYE LIFTER...........  - I have been using these for 20 years and they come to me from the QUEEN of Hair color ANNIE HUMPHRIES - I assisted her one very expensive evening when she gave one of her last MASTER classes...and she was doing blondes that evening and called ahead to see if we had the malibu PACKETS ALL READY TO GO ( we had zero!! - so it was a keystone cops episode of everyone falling all over each other trying to find some of the damn things) To her, she could not even think of lifting a level 5 brunette (with previous color on as well) without VANISH, Malibu packets and OIL BLEACH !). The other 3 that you should also purchase are QF {Quick-FIX Color Correction} + CP - Color Prepare & MALIBU C the very first one. All of them get the crap from everyone's lousy water out of the hair to give you a
    clean-clear  CANVAS on which to place your hair color process. Use one these packets prior to using BOOST, BURST, BLAST & BLASTED for the most vivid results ever.They are inexpensive and worth their weight in gold.  An easier cheaper way of doing this often? Purchase UNdooGoo Shampoo , it has the crystals in the shampoo, so you can shampoo in leave suds on hair for 5-9 minutes, rinse well and POOF a CLEAN CLEAR CANVAS+ + + Ready-To-Color!

That is really the hard part..............be sure you do all of the reading and the remaining items are the OIL BLEACH KITS. AND READING.

Shopping List
  • VANISH - color remover - multiple boxes
  • Malibu CPR or DDL or QUICK FIX or color prepare packets
  • Wella - Color RE-new packet & activator 
  • Killerstrands : GLEAM (4oz) + INTENSIVE + THRIVEN (get the Kit save $$)
  •  Violet /Blue Oil Bleach Kit (4) - If you can swing it purchase the Salon Size...... over-all it saves a ton of $$. if not purchase minimum 4 KITS. DEPENDS ON MANY FACTORS AS TO HOW MANY YOU NEED.
  • TONER- for the 1st time use either PERP or Violet Pilot, but again....... NOT...the...point! 

You must do all of the following reading there are 4 sections I want you to read all Posts, if you do it will give you the confidence you need to follow through on the Oil Bleaching of your hair as there is a DEMO in there I shot photos of which shows you exactly what to do....

One of the trickiest part s of applying the Oil Bleach kits is knowing that Bleach itself only really works for about 75 minutes, after that it works at a SNAILS PACE 


now towel dry............then either air dry or blow dry as the hair MUST BE DRY to apply the oil bleach application again. 
remember to bleach the lengths first...............

While you wait for your order to get there - please do all of this reading it will fly by - besides you WANT to learn how to do this correctly.

reading part 1
reading part 2
reading part 3
reading part 4 
reading part 5

OK there you go,
 now remember when you bring up those links there will be over a dozen posts on every link but you will only see about 6 on the first page, when you get to the bottom click on the arrow or turn page link and keep going until there are no more posts.

The better educated you are on this subject the more perfect your color will turn out. It is not really that hard, it is just a matter of having the proper education under your belt before beginning.........and all the information is here.....

An even better recommendation is to read the entire Blog start to finish it is a mini-cosmetology course and it will help you for the rest of your life.

Enjoy and get that reading under way.......



Wella Professional Line of Products - Nothing is Better

Wella Professional Line of Products - Nothing is Better
Xcellent Gray Coverage, beautiful Shine + Hair Looks Like a Million Bucks w/ Wella !


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