July 29, 2015

Hair ECLIPSE -- Light Hair to Dark in 1-Easy Step? . . Possible? !. . Probable. .or Impossible?

 What Do YOU Think?
You've spent all this money on time going light Blonde....
When you finally get Blonde, your Colorist just cannot seem to get the brass out and you are sick and tired of fighting it.
Back to Brunette Again?
But. . . You've heard about this odd technique called "filling-the-hair" - which has something to do with . . . .coloring the hair once. . . . then coloring it again and you hear that is the way to go from Blonde BACK to brown... Why would anyone want to color their hair twice?
Seems Dumb
Seems like a waste-of-time.
I really think the whole idea is lame.
Lets see what this dinghy lady thinks. . . . she seems to have a lot to say about hair color. . .

                                                                                                                                                                                  Every once in while when I receive a question that seems to come up a lot, then I will use it to create a Post...I figure if I receive a lot of personal emails about this subject there must be thousands who have the same question and would love the answer.. . . . So here you go.... 

Here is her exact question:

I'm Virgin Level 5. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .


I Lifted my hair to Level 8. . . . . . . . . . . . . 

which pulled golden blonde no toner,
using bleach lightener.
I decided I need contrast.....
as, its all one color and washes me out
I want to get to a level 6NW brown 
with level 8N light brown highlight. 

Do you know of any color lines I can try that will deposit the base tone without having to fill my hair first since it no longer has pigment? I greatly appreciate your time & advise and for the highlights, would Shades Eq 8N work? 
That one has blue/violet tone.

My Response: 
Of course no one wants to go through coloring their hair twice, as a Colorist I never enjoyed having to "fill hair"...  The time it takes, cost...etc...I completely understand where you are coming from
BUT......you have about a 20% chance of trying to go darker (when blonde) and the color you apply: "sticking" without filling the hair first. If you don't mind those odds then give it a shot.

 It is my recommendation to fill the hair and that is not because I am trying to sell things and have nothing better to do I promise you that.  
If you look at the mission of this (8 year old)  Blog, it is : To empower those of you who cannot achieve "properly colored" "healthy + shiny hair" at home or in a Salon - no matter where you live, by giving you the gift of education & effective products.
 Here you have: all my tricks of the trade. 
 I've tried it both ways - more than once, because you have a client in your chair who wants to go darker but can't afford the 2 application process it takes. So I have done it on them even with giving them my strongest warning. I wanted to be able to conquer this anomaly myself by trying different lines. . ., .different formulas, putting the colors you fill with........ in with the end formula.....I've tried  every option there is, I promise you. I am only recommending filling because I find making mistakes or using Short-cuts... ALWAYS - ALWAYS ends up costing more in the long run.

We do it because it is necessary for your hair to look beautiful after you begin shampooing...
Cutting corners in the manner you suggest, otherwise you have a very high percentage of ending up having your hair  looking 'green/gray" after a week or 2.
When going lighter, the warmth of your hair strands are  taken away....deleted....that "warmth" is no longer there. So if you apply darker color without returning that warmth replaced.... you have a very high chance of it looking "greenish" after you begin shampooing - because it's missing 1/2 its pigment.. 

Not immediately - it happens after a few shampoos. If you don't mind that, then give the one color application a try.

When everyone tries to skip steps that as professional Colorist..."WE KNOW" are necessary in order for the result to be something "YOU" as our client will love and be thrilled to walk around with...the result is just not something to be proud of....in my opinion.

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

For the best Toners out of every line on planet earth ... you simply cannot beat Wella's Color Touch line. Its a demi-permanent line that hands down... beats everyone by ''shine level''....''color selection'', gentleness, and one the best parts:
the scent is actually a lovely soft fresh scent when mixed...I can't say enough good things about it...there is every color on earth including exactly what you want.

There really is no "W' in 90% of hair color categories, so am not sure what that is referring to. Do you mean Beige/Brown.....Ash........Neutral.......Red..........Matte .....or   Gold
 or any combination of those - are the only Tones categories there really are.

I would use Color Touch to fill, then color with either Koleston Perfect IGORA ROYAL or Illumina. 

So Bottom line, spend the little bit of extra money, follow the proper  "Filling Formula's and Technique's"  . . . my sincere and honest recommendation?  Don't cut corners on tried and trued Hair Coloring Techniques - especially one's that are in text books. There IS a reason for them !

 Apply Planet Pink in BURST to WET hairs' roots... let it sit, 10-12 minutes... rinse.......go from there. It will look just like this.....Use any of the colors for the same effect in any of the 19 colors!

 Titanium or Breaking Bad Blue will give you this result

Check- Out 'April' (below) Who is our Group Manager she went from Level 5 Dark Brown ..............to Platinum and now is playing with all the various BOOST & BURST Tones, 

damn I wish I was 20 !....  

Coral Sunrise
.....on her platinum hair ...pretty much knocked me off my chair how Gorge it looks...

check this out !!


July 18, 2015

Overlapping When Blonding is the Most Important Subject to Prevent

Bleach Retouches............ Kill Hair If Not Properly Applied
Skipped right over this subject when I had quite a few of you, who  want the goods on it.... so here we go
I am famous in the malibu world for my:
Top 10 Habits that Destroy & Damage Your Hair
Its not a 'good' famous. . . . its a 'get under your skin' famous
Why? Its silly really
the List is:
to the point,
and most people do not want to admit that 'it' or 'I' am right
about what it says
It's one of those lists that puts a rain cloud over the sunny party, a sad face replaces a happy one...and I think the one that rattles the most cages is the very first habit, so right out of the gate I have most of the human race,pissed off & angry at me.
Its quite funny the emails - notices- and other correspondence I receive randomly when it hits a chord with someone
The 10 habits are in no particular order, they are all equally as bad for your hair...when you have a full clientele coming to you because of your advice, knowledge, & talent- I take the advice I dole out very seriously. Very . I have worked very hard to conquer the hair thinning and hair loss problem I have watched grow to ridiculous levels in the past 10 years. If something is not done soon "balding women" is going to be a very common term not a rare one.
The first damaging Habit? "Smoking Weed"
That is why it gets under everyone's skin
Everyone knows someone that smokes weed, in today's society...Weed is this generations "beer" or "cocktail"...... or relaxation after a hard days work..... and lets all face it-- it is a helluva lot less harmful to the world than its sister > "Alcohol" as I'm sure you would all agree. So putting it front and center on my list, was only done to get people to "pay attention" to the list. That's it. It is not the worst of the 10 habits, it just gets the most attention, which is what I wanted. The more people that pay attention to the list the more we will begin chipping away at the problem of female hair thinning/loss - one of my missions in life. I had no idea it would instigate so much flak from men -- by the way, I've only had men approach me on it (the List is really for women! - men have years of research on their hair loss issues - they have a pill (that works), a Laser comb, surgeries, Lotions, all OK by the FDA -- Women have ZIPPO/ nada / nothing! So I was trying to get the ball rolling for the female gender - that's all, no favorites promise! The issue of hair loss for womenand men are com
pletely different ball games - with different causes & cures from each other...and need to be approached completely different.
On this list in spot number 8 ..is "OVERLAPPING" with lightener.
Which is finally getting around to what this Post is about. Trying to teach you what overlapping is and how to prevent it. This one word is responsible for a lot of breakage on today's girls & its so very simple to prevent... but not if the Stylist was never taught it, nor understood it.
I was hoping if I taught it here, maybe just maybe I could prevent some of the mistakes that leave Salons every day...."from the Internet!! of all places. Your Stylist might not take to kindly to you telling her how to do it....but its your hair, and that should be the Number 1 most important fact. If you see her doing this, I would think very hard about NOT returning to that Stylist....This is very preventable as you will see.
This usually happens during a retouch on foils.
The technique's referred to a a "weave" "highlight" or "foil" are popular in today's Salons...although the manner in which they are used has evolved and I am hoping that many of the Salons will start tuning in to some of the more current web sites and consider updating their techniques.

What I'd like you to do is know that the problem comes when a lazy or uneducated stylist applies lightener to the entire piece of hair you see sectioned off..... instead of stopping where the line of demarcation is....

> That is where "overlapping" ZAPS your hair...

instead of applying the lightener to just the "new growth" they slap it on that entire piece (over-lapping it on TOP of the already lightened piece)
See the Diagram here . . . . .
The proper method of touch-up is to apply just to the "dotted lines" not the solid lines....
But that is where the common mistake is made . . ..
Instead of just applying to the dotted lines, they slap the bleach on the entire piece of hair.......overlapping it on TOP of already bleached hair.
This is what happens with "highlights" and highlight re-touches...

What each of you should do is wait 4- 6 weeks before doing your roots. There is simply no way any of you will have the expertise to apply bleach to 1/4 inch of hair without making the mistake of overlapping - - -THEREFORE, you must all wait till about 5-6 weeks when you have a solid 1/2" of dark roots and are not in danger of overlapping.

That is not hard - nor does it look bad, Madonna has dark roots all the time. This is a very expensive process, that you have taken on yourself...the only part of that process that you must be super careful of, is NOT overlapping the bleach.
It can be very easily done , IF........"IF" you wait 4-6 weeks - before re-applying the bleach which should be LEvitation Bleach and 20 Volume unless you are a level 5 and below.

I would Never apply bleach twice to roots.

if you have this issue I want to email me, so I can clarify it to you. Killerstrands@gmail.com

Please see the Diagram as well.....