July 18, 2015

Overlapping When Blonding is the Most Important Subject to Prevent

Bleach Retouches............ Kill Hair If Not Properly Applied
Skipped right over this subject when I had quite a few of you, who  want the goods on it.... so here we go
I am famous in the malibu world for my:
Top 10 Habits that Destroy & Damage Your Hair
Its not a 'good' famous. . . . its a 'get under your skin' famous
Why? Its silly really
the List is:
to the point,
and most people do not want to admit that 'it' or 'I' am right
about what it says
It's one of those lists that puts a rain cloud over the sunny party, a sad face replaces a happy one...and I think the one that rattles the most cages is the very first habit, so right out of the gate I have most of the human race,pissed off & angry at me.
Its quite funny the emails - notices- and other correspondence I receive randomly when it hits a chord with someone
The 10 habits are in no particular order, they are all equally as bad for your hair...when you have a full clientele coming to you because of your advice, knowledge, & talent- I take the advice I dole out very seriously. Very . I have worked very hard to conquer the hair thinning and hair loss problem I have watched grow to ridiculous levels in the past 10 years. If something is not done soon "balding women" is going to be a very common term not a rare one.
The first damaging Habit? "Smoking Weed"
That is why it gets under everyone's skin
Everyone knows someone that smokes weed, in today's society...Weed is this generations "beer" or "cocktail"...... or relaxation after a hard days work..... and lets all face it-- it is a helluva lot less harmful to the world than its sister > "Alcohol" as I'm sure you would all agree. So putting it front and center on my list, was only done to get people to "pay attention" to the list. That's it. It is not the worst of the 10 habits, it just gets the most attention, which is what I wanted. The more people that pay attention to the list the more we will begin chipping away at the problem of female hair thinning/loss - one of my missions in life. I had no idea it would instigate so much flak from men -- by the way, I've only had men approach me on it (the List is really for women! - men have years of research on their hair loss issues - they have a pill (that works), a Laser comb, surgeries, Lotions, all OK by the FDA -- Women have ZIPPO/ nada / nothing! So I was trying to get the ball rolling for the female gender - that's all, no favorites promise! The issue of hair loss for womenand men are com
pletely different ball games - with different causes & cures from each other...and need to be approached completely different.
On this list in spot number 8 ..is "OVERLAPPING" with lightener.
Which is finally getting around to what this Post is about. Trying to teach you what overlapping is and how to prevent it. This one word is responsible for a lot of breakage on today's girls & its so very simple to prevent... but not if the Stylist was never taught it, nor understood it.
I was hoping if I taught it here, maybe just maybe I could prevent some of the mistakes that leave Salons every day...."from the Internet!! of all places. Your Stylist might not take to kindly to you telling her how to do it....but its your hair, and that should be the Number 1 most important fact. If you see her doing this, I would think very hard about NOT returning to that Stylist....This is very preventable as you will see.
This usually happens during a retouch on foils.
The technique's referred to a a "weave" "highlight" or "foil" are popular in today's Salons...although the manner in which they are used has evolved and I am hoping that many of the Salons will start tuning in to some of the more current web sites and consider updating their techniques.

What I'd like you to do is know that the problem comes when a lazy or uneducated stylist applies lightener to the entire piece of hair you see sectioned off..... instead of stopping where the line of demarcation is....

> That is where "overlapping" ZAPS your hair...

instead of applying the lightener to just the "new growth" they slap it on that entire piece (over-lapping it on TOP of the already lightened piece)
See the Diagram here . . . . .
The proper method of touch-up is to apply just to the "dotted lines" not the solid lines....
But that is where the common mistake is made . . ..
Instead of just applying to the dotted lines, they slap the bleach on the entire piece of hair.......overlapping it on TOP of already bleached hair.
This is what happens with "highlights" and highlight re-touches...

What each of you should do is wait 4- 6 weeks before doing your roots. There is simply no way any of you will have the expertise to apply bleach to 1/4 inch of hair without making the mistake of overlapping - - -THEREFORE, you must all wait till about 5-6 weeks when you have a solid 1/2" of dark roots and are not in danger of overlapping.

That is not hard - nor does it look bad, Madonna has dark roots all the time. This is a very expensive process, that you have taken on yourself...the only part of that process that you must be super careful of, is NOT overlapping the bleach.
It can be very easily done , IF........"IF" you wait 4-6 weeks - before re-applying the bleach which should be LEvitation Bleach and 20 Volume unless you are a level 5 and below.

I would Never apply bleach twice to roots.

if you have this issue I want to email me, so I can clarify it to you. Killerstrands@gmail.com

Please see the Diagram as well.....
16 comments on "Overlapping When Blonding is the Most Important Subject to Prevent"
  1. Hi Killer Chemist. I do my own regrowth for my highlights, and only bleach the virgin hair. Is there any way I can help prevent the slight over lapping that occurs? Is it a good idea to apply conditioner to the lengths to protect them?

  2. Hi Mia,
    thanks for your question...
    that is very brave of you to do your own highlight-re-touch...Damn I've never even been that bold.

    No..to apply conditioner to the lengths is only done when we are using crazy colors
    that will make more of a mess of the whole project...and make it more difficult to do.
    People worry about the word "overlapping" but as long as you are not applying the bleach to the hair that has ALREADY been bleached (the true definition of overlapping)- then you are on the right road...
    if a little overlapping is not done you will have the opposite problem and have "bands" of brown throughout...not a good look either!
    I'm sure you have noticed that bleach "swells" as it develops..all you have to do is take that into account then apply accordingly...and if you can do your own re-touches...I bet your overlapping is miniscule.

    Do you have breakage or any sign of overlapping stress?

    Killer Chemist

  3. Hi Killer Chemist...

    I'm pretty exasperated! I've read your blog all day, and now am ready to ask my questions. First, your initial answers:

    1) My hair IS level 7-8 and a golden/yellow tone I hate
    2) I WANT level 11 with level 12 highlights and level 6 lowlights with NO brassiness
    3) I had been getting salon applications of the demi permanent Redken Shades for about a year on virgin hair in a level 3 red/brown and then in the last two months I've been to a salon to "go blonde" where the colorist has done highlights and tone and shine (not sure of the specifics) to get me at the level 7/8 yellow crap I hate (but some of the highlights look great and are at probably level 10 or higher)
    4) My hair is about shoulder length with layers
    5) Thin hair, but lots of it
    6) My hair is curly, but loose corkscrews, not tight. It straightens fairly easily.
    7) My hair is a sponge.


    This is a link to the hair I want. What do I say to my hair professional??
    My next appointment is July 14th 2008 and I would like to know how to communicate exactly what I want her to do. I feel like after reading your blog that I've been taken for a ride since I was told it would take several visits to go blonde.

    Maybe I just want more highlights and some lowlights? All over bleaching? I don't know for sure the best way to go. I want the yellow gone!

    Thanks for your blog, I'm now a fan. :)

  4. Hi, I am extremely desperate for an answer.
    I started double processing (rather, having it done) my hair (naturally dark brown) platinum since February of this year.
    All was well and I love my new colour, except the last time I went to get it done, my hairdresser's assistant applied the bleach and not only did she cover it with plastic, she put it under heat (this had never been the process with my hair prior
    Well....needless to say...she overlapped the bleach...horribly...it started falling out (after the re-touched root point she had just bleached) in huge chunks....
    I was and still am devastated as it seems more comes out when I wash it, however it seems the lightest pieces are the ones coming out...not the darker strands.
    Please tell me, what should I do, and what to expect?
    I have been to several of the city's top salons, 3 of which looked at my hair and told me to wait a little longer before bleaching it again.
    However, I was horrified last week when one stylist told me that all of my hair was going to finish falling out.
    Is this true?
    Please tell me the best thing I can do, as my hair is usually very strong and resiliant.
    I do love being platinum, but I do not want to had a buzz-cut in the mean time!

  5. Hey Killer Chemist,
    Iam about a level 7 and just platinum-ized my own hair! Thanks to your site it turned out AWESOME. I am referring you to everyone I know and I am going to take some of your suggestions on product. Anyway I wanted to clear something up, since I am a level 7. Do I need to bleach my roots once or twice for retouching?? My roots came much lighter than the rest of my hair but I bleached them twice just to be sure there was no yellow in it when I was making my hair platinum. So from now on every 14 days or so do I need to bleach them once or twice? And what volume do you suggest? It would be great to see a blog about that. Thanks- D

  6. Danielle,
    NO NO NO . . . you should not need to do your roots twice...that is very rarely necessary...like if you are a Level 4--3-2...no way not a level 6-7-8-9 all of those should be a one shot deal...
    How old are you?
    Those directions of doing the roots that often is for pros, you are going to have a huge problem with OVERLAPPING especially if you are new at this...
    Its very tricky.
    As you can see in this post it is easy when you have 2 inches of new growth but think about it....
    on a little tiny 1/4 inch of hair?? without overlapping onto the other bleached hair?
    did you have help?
    if you did then maybe you could wait 4 weeks,
    even then you only have 1/2 inch.
    When you overlap you run the risk of breakage.
    That's when platinum hair turns out - - not too pretty . . .

    Think about the next step... is a very good rule in Hair color. So many just think of what they are doing now. A great hair stylist thinks about where they are going with your hair in the FUTURE.
    Not just now, that's easy and lazy.
    but good job and congrats

  7. Danielle,
    It sounds to me like you should wait until you have at least an inch of regrowth and then bleach but I would not bleach twice or it may break off at the line where it overlaps. A model's trick is to use face powder from a compact on the roots to disguise them until you can bleach them. (just ordinary makeup compact from the drugstore) I don't want anyone to lose their hair!!

  8. Hi KC , I have been bleaching my hair for years , just last year I started with your technique . It works very well ! But my ends turn brassy golden color , even when toned , they are not light anymore . Should I re bleach the ends for 10 mins or so , then tone ? Please help ! I dont want to burn my hair off !!

  9. Use shampoo mixed with bleach . . .we call it a lame name "bleach soap cap"...go at it very very gently . .get some GLEAM......its mandatory for Bleached hair...
    its like nothing else....

  10. Thanks so much , I will try it !

  11. Hi. I am new to the web site. I have found it due to a hair disaster. I asked my stylist to use a product that I used in my younger years (Clairol Luminize). I asked this because the coloring I was getting was ruining my hair (the color was OK but my hair was getting dryer and duller with each treatment). She reluctantly used it by applying it to my whole head. It did what I remembered - made my hair shiny and healthier. However, now I have orange roots. I love your web page. I want to be a crib colorist. I understand what you are saying about 'no box kits' and not to use them in the future but want to know what is it in the luminize product that adds the shine and health back to the hair? I'm signed up for a few consultations today to get rid of the orange roots :(

  12. Hi, I accidentally overlapped bleach on part of my hair. It's gummy and really elastic, snapping really badly. I was thinking about using a good protein treatment... Any recommendations? I am most likely going to a salon to see what can be done. it is not really that bad, but in some parts, my hair is pretty bad. Not really noticible, not too much breakage, overall I'm not that upset. I just don't know if I should just try the protein treatment, or just start lopping it off. I already used a pantene time renewal deep conditioner about 3 times. It did a lot of good, but my hair is still damaged. Note: I am not expecting a miracle cure here, nor some overnight sensation that comes cheap.


  13. Hello!

    Thank you for all your useful information...

    I used to bleach my own hair 10 years ago, but then I overlapped the bleach and destroyed my hair, so I never did my own hair again!

    But now a professional has overlapped the bleach and I don't know what to do! I also had a Brazilian Keratin Treatment done - but it is definitely the bleach! It gets worse after every wash, Is it just going to all fall out?

    Please HELP!

  14. Dear KC,
    I have some questions and I hope that you might help. I have dark brown hair with some grays. Actually I have only a few on top of my hair (you can't really notice them) but quite a lot on my temples. The good thing is, I have a lot of hair so you don't really get to see that area of my head... So, I thought that I could use Wella colour touch to blend in the grays, but I don't really know how to do it:
    1/ Once the colour has faded, if the grays are visible again and I want to reapply, may I apply it to all the hair or do I need to remove completely remove the colour first?
    2/ Would it be possible to use a permanent dye just on my temples and then a demipermanent for the rest of the hair?
    Thank you so much for your help and for your great website.

  15. KC! I love your blog & expert info. I have natural level 6-7 roots - about 2 inches that have not had bleach on them...only Redken Shades EQ level 7 at roots. Bottom 4 inches of my hair is OLD bleached/toned/processed hair that is a DRAB & BRASSY. If I very carefully painted in strands with 20volume+bleach would that be considered overlapping and would it just break off? How do I brighten the OLD processed bottom half of my hair. I'm loving the dark roots sombre melt to blonde look but not sure how to safely brighten & lighten over previously toned processed hair without disaster. I appreciate any advice you can offer. Thank you so much!

  16. If you could bring those lightened stripes up to and not overlap onto the bottom part, which honestly would take a professional, if you do it to yourself I will bet it will overlap............ which means it will then break off in those stripes which would look very odd.

    What you could do is use one of the Malibu packets probably : Color Correction.....leaving it on for at least 15 minutes - which would clean the dullness out of it. Then depending on what you plan to do with the top part, you could use Breaking Bad Blue or Titanium in BOOST the shampoo and it will make it bright sparkling WHITE, then if you want a bit of pastel you could add BURST in one of the Blues..... they are both SUPER GENTLE, which would solve your problem pretty easily. They are pro tinted shampoo & conditioners we have been making for many years which are in our stores.


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