April 30, 2012

Blonde, James Blonde - Blonde is a Science - its Not Guesswork

I’m Furious w/ Gwen Stefani – James Blonde Series #5

Lately, Gwen Stefani has had commercials running swearing she lightens her hair at home with some fricken’ L’Oreal box-o-crap. There are very distinct ‘laws’ against that type of advertising in our country and the Hair business is not immune from them, I wish someone had the (b)alls to fight the ‘false advertising’ aspect. I know – that is not what she uses. She wears a wig in the commercial, and the one and only reason I care is because I want “YOU” the consumer and hair aficionado not to follow in her footsteps. If you do you will NOT end up with her hair color, I promise you. When I began this Blog 5 years ago, I had a completely different take on the whole idea of commercials – I know they are illusions – I worked on dozens of them, my daughter works on hundreds of them. But for me… 5 years later and thousands of tearful emails from you – I’ve learned my lesson to guide you more than let you think the advertisements are authentic.

Lets say we took 20 people – all 20 of them wanting Gwen’s gorgeous hair color – 19 of them will have horrific results – that 1 that is left began as a VIRGIN Level 8/9 to begin with, had NO prior color on her hair and I promise you she had the luck-of-the-Gods at her back. There is a science to the art of lightening hair, it is not guesswork, I promise every single one of you.
Normally, I would not bring the false advertising to YOU, which only gives it MORE publicity….but she herself … busted her own deception to you the unsuspecting public. Play both . . . see if you can see what I am referring to. But, PLEASE – PLEASE do not run out and purchase this product because it is on my Blog it is here to show what NOT TO DO.

In the 2nd Video, is the final commercial. It’s a wig. I’ve done commercials like this, I’ve used wigs. We all do it. I am guilty as well. I never knew what damage it was doing, until I jumped the fence, and came to the side of the consumer. I am happier here. It’s a wig. I am certain the way around the lie is:she would claim she uses the color on “her wigs”…. like so many rock stars she has an entire room devoted to her wigs/hairpieces. How do you feel about that ? ?
Remember, when someone is worth millions, the very last thing they will do is send their assistant to CVS / Target to buy a box of hair color. IT JUST NEVER HAPPENS. Please don’t fall for it. I hope to explain this week all about going Platinum – and why this could not be the case: Gwen Stefani ‘leads’ you to believe..
Many people think the Art of hair color is guesswork…I’m here to tell you: it is not. What do you think happens if a ‘virgin’ redhead, a medium blond, a light blond, a brunette, dark brown and the most common color in the world: Black haired person runs into Wal-Mart and purchases the same Platinum box hair color? Each person will have a different result…and as I said only 1 will be OK. The rest will come to this web site or the local Hair Colorist in tears looking for help in covering up the disaster. Terrible…..don’t you think?

The Science of going Blond

I know that we all wish the rules for hair coloring were : just apply and “POOF” it was the exact color you desired….but unfortunately they are not. There are a set of rules to go from point A to Point B….so choose the set that apply to YOU & never lose them.
Platinum Hair
If you have previous hair color on your hair …….you must follow 1 set of rules.
If you have previous hair color on your hair and the color is a Level 8 or lower ……. you will follow another set.
If you have previous hair color on your hair and it is a Level 8 or higher – you would follow yet another set of rules.
There are 4 classifications of lighteners:
  1. Powder Lightener
  2. Cream Lightener
  3. Oil-Bleach Kit Lightener
  4. Hair Color (Tint)
All 4 are useful for specific techniques..so one cannot say one is better than the other…that is not how it works.

Powder Lighteners are used primarily for ‘off-the-scalp’ applications – I would say right now in todays Salons across the country – is the number 1 lightener in use. It never was for me, because I spent a lifetime of trying to talk people down from the whole “highlighting” look….there are many other techniques to use besides that one. Powder lighteners are the quickest of all lighteners – which is why Stylists like it. The more people getting foils in one day the better. http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/framesi-decolor-bleaching-powder

Cream Lighteners are used for more ‘control’. They don’t drip, they are infused with oils and conditioners, they work a little bit slower, but I never worry about speed. You may use foils if you want to hurry the processing time up, the heat generated by foils (is why we use them) .http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/framesi-decolor-bleaching-cream

Oil-Bleach Lighteners: are the only one used for on-the-scalp. http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/killerstrands-oil-bleach-kit

High-lift Colors or Level 8–9-10-11 & 12 : in a professional line of color are more for a subtle blonding effect. Remember, these are used to lighten and are gorgeous but their effectiveness really only works on hair that is virgin (no color). Many times that is why they cannot being used. If you have virgin hair, I always encourage these first.
More in depth blonding advice this week. Stay tuned !  http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/x-factor-hair-color

Killer Chemist
April 27, 2012

Strand Lightener Re-Touch - James Blond Series #4

Once you have lightened your hair significantly, many do not think of the future of that step. It can be overwhelming to some, and actually exciting to others.

 As part of being a great Hair Stylist I always felt that it was MY duty to think about what each client would do "in the future. As Crib Colorist, you all MUST be that person to yourself. Do not just blindly decide one day to go buy a box of hair color that says it is Gwen Stefani's Platinum. As much as I used to admire Stefani, lately I cringe when I see evidence she has signed with L'Oreal and "claims" she got her hair color from the company of the same name. It is completely and utterly impossible. But, she 'sold-out' -- she wears a wig in the commercial, that wig is tinted with that horrible Color-in-a-Box crap she is promoting. I would bet big....no huge.........money on that fact. I need to stop doing that, back to the topic.
When thinking about the future as you decide to lighten your hair, remember this is where the term "High Maintenance" began.

Depending on your Virgin Hair Color  get set for some dark roots to begin growing in round about the beginning of the 3rd week. For those starlets whose hair color I took care of we would re-touch approx. every 14-16 days to keep it fresh all the time. I have learned that frequent re-touching should NOT be done by Crib Colorists. Why? Close care needs to be taken that NO overlapping takes place, and it cannot be done on oneself. This piece of advice varies from what I recommended at the beginning of this Blog. I have realized many of the standards I had for myself as a busy Malibu Colorist, just don't work for Crib Colorists. The soonest I would recommend would be at 4 weeks....for general public I don't think anyone came to me for lightening re-touch before 4 weeks. I know it seems weird, but the rules we have for Celeb's are - in fact - just for them.

When you re-touch lightened hair (of any type) care must be taken to only apply the new color to the NEW growth . This is where a Cream Lightener really shines as a product, of course, only if you have Level 11 or 12 platinum Blonde.  The consistency of the Cream Lightener (Framesi or X-Factor) http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/framesi-decolor-bleaching-cream    is such that it PREVENTS overlapping. Remember my little rule that I repeat over and over for 5 years now : Use the Right Tool for the job !  With the lightened re-touch in Level 11 or 12 :
  • Cream Lightener and 20Volume (no higher) is your option - process 30-55 minutes checking at 30 and again every 10 til desired result
For those of you that choose the lower blondes = level 8-9-10 ... Use a color higher than the Level you wish to become .......apply with 40 Volume apply to the regrowth exclusively  . Process for 75 minutes with low heat from a Diffused hair Dryer !
Another superb blond in the X-Factor line I have not talked about, is 11.20 - Level 11 colors are usually very interesting and beautiful. Try one. http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/x-factor-hair-color

hope -that-helps
Killer Chemist  or 
April 22, 2012

Hi-Ho Silver! Covering Gray Hair on Blondes...#3

#3 in the:  Blonde, James Blonde series. This is a little talked about subject but an important one. Some people choose to go 100% gray and they look nice in it, but as a general rule I never recommend someone try it. Just as make-up improves almost anyone's appearance, so does coloring the gray. Gray hair lacks depth and warmth, which is what needs to be replaced in order for the hair to look perfect.

Now, remember that it is the percentage of gray that dictates the exact formula one uses on gray hair. One must get past the resistant outer layer of Gray hair in order o deposit which ever color one chooses. 

There are 2 ways to go with Blonding and Gray hair.....one is probably less popular than the other... not many's choice. 
  1. You CAN cover gray by going platinum and using an Oil-Bleach Kit  http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/killerstrands-oil-bleach-kits-on-the-scalp-application method, which will get you the Gwen Stefani/Marilyn Monroe look, but be sure of your coloring and the commitent that comes with this choice ... OR
  2. Using Medium color blond's say Level 8 are actually the best for covering gray than the lighter choices. 
Anything Lighter than a Level 8 is made to "LIFT" and what you are looking for is "deposit" when covering gray. Make Sense?  Pale blonde's just don't have the pigment necessary to replace missing depth and really apply coverage. Those lighter blond's can be used when you first begin noticing grays for blending but that is about all.

Something I tell Every One Who Has Gray & Is Navigating Through Their Options?  The Closest Color To Gray is Blonde so Going Blonde is an Excellent Option

What you won't want to use any higher than 20Volume, because again....you are looking for coverage - the higher Volumes create LIFT more than deposit....so always stick to 20.

A couple of Blond formulas from our permanent line of Color  that both cover well, you might want to try or run Strand Tests on are as follows:
> 8.0 + 8.3
> 8.0 + 8.10

If you would like the exact percentages of each, please write in the percentage of gray - when you place your order. There is a "Notes" section and we welcome input about your order.


April 20, 2012

#2) Blonde, James Blonde - Level 8 Blonde–More Amazing Than You Think

Covering all Aspects of Going Lighter with Ones Hair
Now, something I am willing to bet that I have forgot to discuss through my many posts on Blonding, is that you do not always need to go to for the Blast-To-The Past LIGHT-AS-LIGHT-BLOND AS WE CAN possibly go – route. I believe I have done that mainly because if you can get ‘that’ blond, the rest is easy. But, that is not how I should approach it    - there are many shades of beautiful blonde from Level 7 to Platinum that I am forgetting!…and many times platinum should not be your choice, it really shouldn’t. I’m going to tell you a rule that the Head Colorist for Sassoon gave me many years ago…(even though because of Hair Shows she did not follow it) but many of you should : Try to stay within 2-3 levels of your Virgin Level.
Consider going Level 8 Blond (below) or level 9….both are so awesome I swear to you. Plus many of you that are the most popular VIRGIN Level ( at least in Southern California) : Level 7 wouldn’t have far to travel. I will never stop saying it but STRAND TEST – STRAND TEST. The formula for that would be to use X.Factor 10.20 + 30 or 40 Volume  - - it depends on your porosity .http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/x-factor-hair-color  Porosity is the key to how high your hair will LIFT. I can take 6 people with Level 7 hair  - -  use this formula and it will come out amazing on 2. Why? Those 2 will have had the Color Prep packs, have healthy hair, and their porosity will be just so!            badasshair394                                                                                                                
When going blond, it always nice if you can have at least a couple blonde tones on the head as opposed to one. Nothing tricky needs to be done. I am going to start trying to teach on a more mellow level. More practical for home Colorists….no more using 4 colors . I have been running tests with our hair color line and had excellent results with 1 or 2 different colors. So THINK SIMPLE Boys and Girls ! Trying to get everyone to do foil-work, and various tricky color techniques at home is ridiculous and I apologize for not realizing this sooner. I want to begin suggesting formulas – SIMPLE formulas
Now if you are thinking about going blonde. . . hope for many of these things:
  • your hair must not have any old color on it………if it does  - - it must come off (Vanish) – all the way off
  • Porosity Normal
  • level 7 or lighter Virgin hair
  • STRAND TEST – STRAND TEST. a couple small little wisps of testing can truly save your entire head of hair from damage.
From here on out (and now that I am one of you, a Crib colorist as well) I will be approaching my educating from a more practical approach. How you will receive the coolest hair color, with the easiest technique possible.
Something that quickly comes to mind is making your fringe area (bangs for those new to my posts) 1 or 2 levels lighter or darker than the rest of the hair. Even if you style_13don’t have a fringe, you would part away that triangle in the front and tint that a High-Lift Blond (most people love blonde framing & near their face ) Use our 12.20 + 40 Volume – which is our highest lifting high-lift blond ( violet based and is da bomb!) http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/x-factor-hair-color . Or as shown in the above photo, make the triangle…I didn’t really mean this drastic of a color difference so use your imagination.
Now, for those of you with old color in it. If it does it must come out.
  • the very best option for going blond is virgin hair
  • consider going a Level 8 blond, one of the most gorgeous colors on Planet Earthlevel 8 blond 876
  • Say you are a level 6 wanting to go blond, make the investment of a couple tubes of color and run some Strand Tests. If you ask for up to 10 foils, we will complimentary include them with your order !  Use 10.10 + 40 or maybe even 30Volume
  • Be sure to PREP the hair correctly, it will many times move past that annoying DURP you feel is so stubborn IF you use a Malibu 2000 Packet. Purchase 2 Color Prep Malibu2000 Packets. Using one prior to applying the color and then again once you are finished – which STOPS the blonding action and therefore prevents even 1 iota of damage happening. That is the key to preventing damage while lightening. color prep9

I have realized that the reason many of you are leery of lighteners ( bleach) is because you are convinced that if that is used, your hair WILL be damaged, no matter what. I know I was a professional, but you need to know that on over 10,000 Heads of hair – there was no damage going on – I was emphatic about working solely on healthy hair and continue on that quest through Killerstrands.
People will say to me, I am a Level 4 and want to be platinum…well. if that person was in my chair, I promise you I would spend 10 minutes talking to them to see what this quest was all about…I mean that is basically black to white….Yes. it can be done….but do you really want to do that to your hair? HIGH – SKY HIGH maintenance.
So really think your next color through, color on a whim is not always the best idea.
Please I hope to get more of you on board with Killerstrands, with my new theory on a simplified way of teaching how to become a Crib Colorist.
April 17, 2012

Blonde is The Absence of Color in Hair, NOT a Color Itself

Blond, James Blond - The First Post of a 10-Part Series on everything I can come up w/ on Blonding

Within the walls of Killerstrands we have a way of displaying to everyone what our hair color looks like now, what we were born with and where we want to go with it. We call the 10 Questions the KILLER 10, we call them that because these 10 questions are absolutely necessary in order to have a successful result when coloring your hair. {oh and btw : these questions better be considered by your Stylist in a Salon situation as well}.  What we have below is both the display of that and the beginning of a Series I am going to write called:  Blond, James.....Blond - The Crib Colorists Side of the Complexities of Having and Keeping Your Hair Blond. issues at hair salons across the United States and now that many have Killerstrands to use...... a lot of it is going on at home as well.

I was just writing the first of a 10-part series on Blonding, when I received this question, that shook up my whole idea of what I should talk about and I'M THRILLED ! I love to have a clear focus of the angle of Blonding (or whichever subject I'm writing about) that many of you don't quite understand. Now, I can clearly see where I should concentrate the next 9 Posts about. The concept of how we arrive at blonde hair. It is a weird one. People think that Blond is a color, well.....technically it is not. Blond is the absence of brown, well - wait.....let me start at the beginning .... here is the Question that was Posted in our Group - that made me re-think the whole series. . .

 My Hair Is A Disaster I need Your Help ? ?

Here's my Killer 10.
1. Do you have previous haircolor on your hair? Yes, I have 90% of
2. What is your VIRGIN (God-given) hair color level & tone ?  7N
3. What IS your present Hair Color level & Tone ? Terrible 8.34, 9.3
and a very few 10.01
4. What is your DESIRED hair color Level & Tone ? 8.12(I think .12 is
ash/violet, right?) or 9.12
5. What is your percentage of Gray? Is it Resistant? very few, it just
started showing up
6. What is your DURP?  When I do highlights my hair turns yellow/
orange. When i color my hair turns orange/red
7. What is your texture? Dry  (but was not like that before a year
8. What is the Porosity? Low porosity
9. Along w
10. What is your length and thickness? A little bit underneath the
shoulder. Fine-course (but it was thick before)
What is the Condition ? damage, brassy and frizz

I'm 40 years old from Brazil  and I started highlighting my hair when I
was in my 20's. My hair used to look like Alessandra Ambrosio's hair
with that color and those highlights. That's the way I like my hair
(with a little bit more highlights than her). It was like that until 1
year ago when I changed my colorist because she moved. After that,
every colorist i went to, messed up my hair and now I have highlights
over highlights over highlights all over my hair... Every thing they
put in my hair turns brassy, yellow, orange, and sometimes redish-
orangish. Now I have all these horrible colors in my hair with 2
inches of my roots showing and I really don't want to try another
What I want you to help me with is decide what to put in my hair
because I am really lost since it is going to be the first time I
color my own hair. I am thinking about using 9.02 + 8.10 and I'm going
to be crazy and try the star shape technique (because i think this is
the easiest one, and i really dont like my hair in just one color)
with 10.10, with 9.22 toner all over my head. What do you think, Is
this a good combination? Should I use 30v or 40v on my base? Should I
use 40v on my star shape and 10v on the toner? What about the times
for the star shape and the base? I put the toner on wet hair?
I really hate orange, yellow, and red and unfortunately my hair has
all those colors. Do I need to use a blue and violet shot to mix in my
formula? If you think neither of these options work on my hair, then I
am willing to go back to my natural color.

Thank you for helping me, I really appreciate it, 
 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 

 This one Question jogged my brain and reminded me that I myself had a difficult time with these concepts when I first began, which is great news for all Killerstrands readers ! Here I was about to embark on the James Blond Series - Well, what a way to start it, with a real Comment from the Killerstrands Group.
Let me start out by saying that at about the age of 30 and then again at about age 40, 50 and in my 100% honest opinion on the DECADE of every age from then on.... EVERYONE's hair begins to change. . .and as much as I am one of those people who feels we get better with age, unfortunately I do not feel our hair is on board with that theory. it has a mind of its own. So first off, please get ready for your hair to change, its just part of life. We all must make adjustments accordingly to how your hair has altered for the worse.

At Killerstrands we do not encourage experimenting on the entire head of hair, we stress STRAND TESTS, on new formula's. That way the mistake or success is only on a small piece of hair. So please read a post or 2 on that subject before trying any color at all (yes that includes the Toner idea !). Take the time. Do not put it off and think its not worth it. Once you get the color down, then you may fly through the application. But I will tell you that most of the mistakes that are made are made because you are in a hurry. Forget the mental attitude that comes with doing "Boxed" Hair Color. Hair color that is gorgeous is NOT FAST. Remember the last time you had 'rockin' color by a great Colorist....I bet it wasn't fast ! Anything that is done well, is not done in a hurry.

Now. The problem with your hair and hair color in general. Its difficult to know why a new hairdresser screwed up in the manner in which you describe. This concept stumps a lot of people but I am going to try one more additional way in which to explain it......

> Blonde is not a color you "add': to the hair. The strands of hair have natural pigment in them from birth. That pigment 9 times out of 10 is darker....say a Level 7,6,5 and on and on. The way you reach blonde is by removing layers of natural pigment. So you ( for lack of a better word) SUCK-OUT the pigment in the hair in order to reach blond. Lets say someone has Level 7 color and the goal is a Level 9 . We do NOT ADD color to go from a Level 7 to a Level 9. What we do is "lift" the color out of the strands in order for it to become lighter (and blonder) . Therefore if the color is Lifted out of the strands - - rather than: removing existing color.... as many of you think, it would not work. But, I am very glad this scenario was brought to my attention....so now I see clearly what issues are not understood.
So, I need to work on this area so that everyone understands this concept better! Thanks for this, both of you ! !                        
Blond is not a color that is added to your hair.
Although, Brunette is .
Why isn't blond?
Blond is the hair color that is the result of "lifting"out your natural color . When either "lightener" or High Lift Blonde's are used, there are 2 main goals of the high lift blond colors.......1st they LIFT THE NATURAL COLOR OUT of the strands....then, they DEPOSIT the "tone" of Blond you have chosen.
I'm trying to remember how exactly this was explained to me years ago as this was a concept I just had the hardest time comprehending at the beginning. Remember my trick, read concepts you do not understand -- OVER and OVER again. Eventually it WILL sink in. (That was how I went to the hardest hair school in the USA with a bunch of 19 year olds and made it through the other side!)

'Lifting' basically means 'lightening'

Remember how (only) permanent colors can "lift", which is why as a Colorist we adore permanent colors compared to Demi-Permanent hair color. With the Demi-Permanent colors the only process they can do is to deposit hair color.
The most miraculous part of hair coloring is the fact that Permanent color CAN do 2 polar opposite techniques on ones hair  (lifting & depositing)  AT THE EXACT SAME TIME. Therefore when you apply level 9 - 10 - 12 to your hair with 30 or 40 Volume that color you applied will FIRST lift all your natural color out of the hair strands you have applied it to, then it will deposit the tonal quality you have chosen.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Now My Dear, I cannot tell you why your hair color is all these bizarre colors for sure....but if you have had it beautiful at some point then I am guessing it is very possible. I would start by following Betty and try 9.22 + 10 Volume - that is a toner with strong Violet undertones. Violet rids us of Brass. How you use the color wheel on this subject is.....if you have brass that you cannot stand....go to your color wheel.....go to the color directly ACROSS on the Color Wheel. Across from Yellow is Violet. The Color directly across WILL CANCEL THE COLOR you dislike. You don't need us if you understand that one little rule. Don't like Orange? Use a color that has a BLUE base.

 If you had a stylist doing your hair that you loved I am willing to bet a lot of money that she used the old "standard" used by every Hairstylist known to man......and that is powder lightener and 10 Volume with the 1st bowl  and once you are half way thru the hair you use powder lightener and 20 Volume. THAT is how you avoid all those crazy colors you quoted and that is what is used on all those South American models, I've worked on their hair before. Most of them have at least a Level 6 hair. Most Hair Stylists don't go to all the trouble I do using 2-3-4 colors......so I need to remember that for all of you to not have to live up to the way in which I worked. I know that over 1/2  It was harder, and there are short-cuts, I just need to be aware that I should point them out for all of you to choose your method of coloring from. Since I have turned into over to a home hair colorist myself, I have even stopped putting blond pin-size ribbons in the top of my hair, its too hard - so now I get it. 100% !

In the hair business the #1 manner in which Stylists put "highlights in the hair, is by using "powder lightener"( bleach) and 10 or 20Volume. The issue with that is, you want to be fast enough so that you get all the foils in within a very close margin from each other..... The biggest no-no with using powder lightener is not leaving it on too long. Then you get into the field of creating Damage. So THAT is the theory behind running Strand Tests. If you do not leave the lightener and 10V "ON" long enough ...then if you look at the 10 degree's of De-Colorization Chart, what would you end up with?.........................Guess ?    ?  You could end up with orange-Gold or the hard-to-avoid "BRASS" ! Remember how it works. . . The hair begins brown.....yes if it is black it is even 1 step darker than on this chart.  As time ticks away in the "processing time" everyone's hair begins to go up the chart up above. And as you can see if the time has not been long enough it will stop at RED ......if not long enough STILL.....It will be Gold ......the goal should be the top 2 shades....yellow (which is a nice Golden Blond) and Pale Yellow (which is most likely the color most strive for). 

The issue that effects this most is................your God-Given DURP. Your Dominant-Underlying-Remaining-Pigment that is basically hidden from most.  Some people (think Jennifer Anniston) have the most amazing DURP on Planet Earth.....which means as your hair goes UP the Ladder, in all the different Levels it passes through  - -  it is STILL or gorgeous color.  But that is not the "norm" and THAT is why EVERY single one of you should run a Strand Test or 2 !

 Also, when the powder lightener is used correctly you will eliminate all those crazy colors you spoke about.... The reason those crazy colors are there? Is because your color was not LIFTED - "PAST" the orange stage......not LIFTED "PAST" the Brass stage....and so on.....

I think you should purchase 1 or 2........ of X-Factor's 9.22, a small tub of Framesi's powder lightener ( 3 oz.)  and an X.Factor 12.20 Highlift +40V.....run strand tests with all 3 products and then you will know for yourself where your hair stands and which colors work for you.

What I want to be sure about is that NO ONE  use Vanish on Blonde, That is the one place you are not supposed to used it....as it would not work. I have seen a few people refer to possibly doing that, and I am glad I have finally had a chance to address this subject. So every woman with Blonde hair presently must NEVER use VANISH. Once you fully understand the Theory....it will make ZERO sense.

But I will continue on with this theory and this intensity in teaching everyone the ins & outs of the Blonding world.
thanks everyone,

Killer Chemist
April 14, 2012

5 Year Anniversary for Killerstrands - Always lands on Tax Day

I began writing the Blog to give back to all of you women, for absolutely no reason.
I wanted to share the excellent education I paid, received and experienced in the HAIR arena.
I was in the movie biz for the biggest part of the rest of my life and there was nothing I wanted to share with anyone about that. I would then be just one more person revealing the truth about Tinsel Town. Just not me.
I knew people wanted to know about hair....plus I was stuck in the never-ending circle of "keeping the secrets from the public"
April 9, 2012

Sulfate-Free Shampoos Hits National Saturday Night Live TV Show

 What do Killerstrands - - Saturday Night Live and Sulfate-Free Shampoos have in common ? ? ?

Here is a hilarious copycat rendition of one of the MANY - mindless and misleading hair shampoo commercials on the tube......... day in and day out. This is what they say about it:

Sofia Vergara Turns Shampoo Commercial Vixen in SNL Skit! (VIDEO) 

 Modern Family star Sofia Vergara was a raucous hit on Saturday Night Live last night — but one definite highlight was her mock Pantene shampoo commercial with new cast member Kate McKinnon starring as Penelope Cruz. Naturally, the two sultry beauties are duking it out for the spotlight — but the script's confusing scientific jargon keeps giving Penelope trouble.

Its sooooo sad now. I used to be able to bring a U TUBE video over and share it with you .... NO MORE ! When there was one that fit our little world of hair that was funny or educative I would post it here for all to enjoy. Now, everything is protected by attorney's and BS wording all over it. If you already have HULU I would suggest using that to see an excellent re-run of the skit.

The funniest part of this whole thing to me and should be to Killerstranders . . . is that they are just completely RIPPING apart all the fake hair and shampoo ads on TV. They have the one girl that is playing Penelope Cruz, reading off the names of the ingredients that I have also been slamming for the entire 5 years ( anniversary next week btw !) . 

She reads off Sodium Laureth Sulfate, and all the chemical ingredient names over and over. I actually could not believe my mind when watching this. I had been in the hospital 1 week and truly thought I was dreaming when I saw it. But, then it made all the morning shows today. . .so it reminded me that I must get this out to all of you!

So my quest to get hair products clean - clear and unencumbered by baloney ingredients marches on and now is in the National news ( !! yeehaw!) and I truly hope it makes them wake up and think about how they are making their products.  The amount of hairloss and thinning is on those companies shoulders.  L'Oreal - -  Proctor & Gamble - - Revlon - . 
You know whats funny? ? ?  NBC would have needed to get clearance before airing that skit directly from P & G . . . I just cannot imagine why they would let that go down?  Don't get me wrong I am truly happy for our crusade to get Sulfate Shampoos OFF THE SHELVES completely, but WHY OH WHY would they think it was fine?

Their loss is our gain.

I am very sorry that I missed this new marketing idea referred to as:
 Small Business Saturday
. . .which began this past week. 
It is going to be a weekly event for us. I have not yet come up with all the ideas for it, but I have truly had it with big businesses ruining our way of life in America. I know we are smallish, that I cannot change something so large....but it has to start somewhere and I want to feel like I am doing something "more" when I work . . . something that will CHANGE the future of the USA for our young....Because the way it is now, it will blow-up and there will be no future in it for anyone that is not wealthy.  If we do not get back to our roots, small town America I truly fear for our youth. They don't know that they should be worrying....it is something our generation needs to at least MOVE ON ! 

Like I said, I will need another week to recover from a surgery that went completely 'wrong' - before I get the SBS really going.... . but we will begin some sort of fun & discounts even this week, on that day. Every week. Plus we will give you some education on how the Small business movement needs your help

Killer Chemist
April 6, 2012

Killerstrands Professional Hair Color ( at home) - Top 10 Suggestions for Success

 Vibrant, Professional Hair Color is possible without visiting the Salon. Just follow these 10 Steps to ensure you get the results of your dreams ( and not your nightmares)

Prepare a "Color Cave", that you plan to use each month. Use old towels, old t-shirts & an old sheet for the floor. Hide anything and everything that's within dye splashing distance. Now that I am a Crib Colorist myself. . .  I play with different methods every 60 days !  Remember if your formula is correct then it should surely last 60 days. Last months Color was done with old Beach towels spread out over all my bathroom shelves and products (a great result).  Be sure to invest in a hands-free... rear-view mirror if you don't have help with the back of your hair. We have the one I use - personally, in the store. These mirrors are also wonderful for blow-drying and styling hands-free.....never go out of the house without a look in the "rear-view mirror" ! I have had be for 20 years, you will wonder how you ever made it without it after trying it for a week. You earn your money back in a single month by all the tricks you can do with it.

Begin with clean, dry hair that's free of styling product build-up - for super gunked up hair - I have used many of the products by Malibu 2000 for many years . . .  Such as COLOR PREP Treatments packs, when doing hair color for big photo shoots or TV commercials we will begin the process with an application to have completely stripped down hair. 

The advantages?

why you need it

  • readies hair for unprecedented color absorption, coverage and retention
  • extends vibrancy
  • prevents brassiness, dullness and discoloration
  • accelerates color-processing time
  • protects scalp from itching and burning caused by harsh oxidizing chemicals

key benefits:

  • 100% Vegan, food-grade, Ecocert, wellness ingredients
  • features a highly advanced blend of vitamin antioxidants and botanical nutrients
  • activates on the spot for maximum potency
  • free of preservatives, parabens, propylene glycol, salts, DEA, gluten and fragrance
  • hermetically sealed, eco-friendly, travel-ready packaging
  • safe for all ages, all hair types (except white, non-pigmented hair)

key ingredients:

  • ascorbic acid – nature-identical vitamin C, freshly activated for topical use – removes damaging water deposits and purifies hair and scalp
  • betaine - improves hair’s texture and softness with superior, penetrating moisture retention
  • panthenol -  pro-vitamin B5 absorbs deep into the hair shaft to repair hair and improve moisture retention

The 24 hour Patch Test. There is a lot of controversy about this step... legally - it should be applied before every single color service, although if it was, 90% of clients would stand up and walk out on you. I learned that the hard way coming out of Academy. Therefore, what to do??? 
24 hours before applying color and especially if you have any type of sensitivities / allergies to products of any type - I highly suggest mixing up a super small batch of the product you'll be using to check for an adverse reaction. Smear a small amount behind the ear and covering it with a band aid for 24 hours, its only 1 little day. If any irritation occurs, wash it off ASAP and do NOT use...Yes, its rare - super rare ... but if you are the one .. it can save you some heartache.

Strand Test. The difference between its cousin - -above?? One is on skin........ the other on the hair. Big difference. The one above you are testing to make sure your skin/hair will not have a negative reaction to the hair color. For this little guy you are testing to see if you get the color you desire with your present idea for a formula. I am very much in favor of this one. I will get emails all the time, from people who have destroyed their entire head of hair......I always ask: 'did you run a strand test' ?? THIS TEST WILL SAVE YOURSELF A WORLD OF HURT when NEW to Professional Home Hair Color. TAKE THE TIME TO RUN THIS - it will take you all of 1 hour.  For "strand tests" - apply a tiny batch of product to the hair in the back of the ear and underneath, using a foil to cover,process for complete time. Be sure to set TIMER, checking twice throughout developing process. The sun, products, and previous color can all affect your results and timing ... it will give you an idea of the final result before you commit yourself.


Plenty of product.
 If hair is long or thick, have 2 tubes of color on hand you can always use the 2nd tube next time if you don't need it all, pr the best news is our NEWEST Star Hair Color, that we refer to as X.Factor - -  the tube is a whopping 3.5 ounces - its HUUUGE! It is almost 2 tubes in one for a super good price. Best part about it? Shiny - long-lasting hair color. A couple people have had a bit of a learning curve with the new ratio it comes with. Which is 1: 1.5. So with 1 ounce of haircolor you are to use 1 and a half ounces of developer. We are now enclosing a business card you can put on your fridge - which spells out how much you should use at every level !  Saving partial tubes are done all the time in professional color or remember tinting your eyebrows is always recommended by the top pros. Its no longer having the carpet match the drapes, its having the shutters match the drapes! Even more desired!

6 Barrier Cream application is mandatory around hairline, to prevent color-run and to soften the color hairline . Always applying the color up to & over the hairline for security. Using this cream prevents the dreaded skin stain which results from a clients very dry skin & new color application. We have a couple different types of this . . . the one by Repelle is my fav., it is like a giant Lip Balm stick making it easy to crank up and draw around the hairline. To me??? Time is always money!.
You know. . . .  I've tried lots of the 'home remedies' - - honestly - something made just for the occasion is easier and more effective.


Proper Tools make life easy and home coloring possible. Be sure to have at least 2-3 "tail" combs at all times for hair coloring. That and the # 11 comb for parting and distributing dye throughout the hair and scalp - which we give to you free ON REQUEST !      Plenty of strong 3 inch clips (longer hair), foils, hand towels, tint bowls, tint brushes, Timer, measure cup, etc. All supplies are inexpensive and can be purchased for very decent prices at our store.


Never leave Tint on for longer than recommended time - that's not how it works, and it won't give you a richer, darker shade. The manufacturer's directions are on the "inside" of the box normally- they have tested their product and know it well - if you follow them exactly you will have the best results. Rinse in the manner it quotes, and 'when' you should, so make sure you have that timer visible from your Color Cave!

Always use a Post Color Treatment. Our own INTENSIVE is as GOOD as there is...the way it fly's outta here, you would think it was free- it is a triple-threat.....1) conditioner and 2) pH balancer and most importantly 3) a Color Lock..... I speak about it frequently, this step is out of my "SUCCESS IN COLOR ARSENAL - I never thought I would reveal. Neither of my mentors practice it and I've always felt it was a true healthy hair gold mine of yours truly, the dear Killer Chemist. Since I revealed it - I fully expect you > to run out, buy it and USE IT !! 

ooooops, if you do have a mishap,  we have a couple of Solutions to help . . . 
~ we have the GROUP......join that for support - research & questions
~ you may TEXT the store.......
~ you may ask simple questions when submitting your order

Be sure you have read and followed my directions-advice and writings....I am finding what I call Color Cowboys, they decide,"yee haw" what the Hell, it can't be that hard.....and they just power through without reading a thing. OK, I take that back, they have read 1 or 2 posts and decided they have got it down. Where the rest of you have been good students - reading - asking questions, signed up to the Forum/Group.... then made your attempt at being a CC > Crib Colorist!...with wonderful success.
I WANT YOU ALL TO SUCCEED, I swear . . . .so I have tried multiple different offerings for different types of people 

We have a couple disaster stories displayed yet I have received many more success stories than disasters - I didn't have the Forum going yet.

For everyone interested in discussing
  • hair color

  • hair health

  • hair education of products and their ingredients

  • hair styling & tools

  • hair growth ( women) 12 step miracle program

Please join the forum/Group that coincides with this Blog...of the same name: Killerstrands

Good Luck and Keep reading and Learning