April 27, 2012

Strand Lightener Re-Touch - James Blond Series #4

Once you have lightened your hair significantly, many do not think of the future of that step. It can be overwhelming to some, and actually exciting to others.

 As part of being a great Hair Stylist I always felt that it was MY duty to think about what each client would do "in the future. As Crib Colorist, you all MUST be that person to yourself. Do not just blindly decide one day to go buy a box of hair color that says it is Gwen Stefani's Platinum. As much as I used to admire Stefani, lately I cringe when I see evidence she has signed with L'Oreal and "claims" she got her hair color from the company of the same name. It is completely and utterly impossible. But, she 'sold-out' -- she wears a wig in the commercial, that wig is tinted with that horrible Color-in-a-Box crap she is promoting. I would bet big....no huge.........money on that fact. I need to stop doing that, back to the topic.
When thinking about the future as you decide to lighten your hair, remember this is where the term "High Maintenance" began.

Depending on your Virgin Hair Color  get set for some dark roots to begin growing in round about the beginning of the 3rd week. For those starlets whose hair color I took care of we would re-touch approx. every 14-16 days to keep it fresh all the time. I have learned that frequent re-touching should NOT be done by Crib Colorists. Why? Close care needs to be taken that NO overlapping takes place, and it cannot be done on oneself. This piece of advice varies from what I recommended at the beginning of this Blog. I have realized many of the standards I had for myself as a busy Malibu Colorist, just don't work for Crib Colorists. The soonest I would recommend would be at 4 weeks....for general public I don't think anyone came to me for lightening re-touch before 4 weeks. I know it seems weird, but the rules we have for Celeb's are - in fact - just for them.

When you re-touch lightened hair (of any type) care must be taken to only apply the new color to the NEW growth . This is where a Cream Lightener really shines as a product, of course, only if you have Level 11 or 12 platinum Blonde.  The consistency of the Cream Lightener (Framesi or X-Factor) http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/framesi-decolor-bleaching-cream    is such that it PREVENTS overlapping. Remember my little rule that I repeat over and over for 5 years now : Use the Right Tool for the job !  With the lightened re-touch in Level 11 or 12 :
  • Cream Lightener and 20Volume (no higher) is your option - process 30-55 minutes checking at 30 and again every 10 til desired result
For those of you that choose the lower blondes = level 8-9-10 ... Use a color higher than the Level you wish to become .......apply with 40 Volume apply to the regrowth exclusively  . Process for 75 minutes with low heat from a Diffused hair Dryer !
Another superb blond in the X-Factor line I have not talked about, is 11.20 - Level 11 colors are usually very interesting and beautiful. Try one. http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/x-factor-hair-color

hope -that-helps
Killer Chemist  or 
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