July 30, 2016

Bleaching Hair at Home Begins w/ Using Professional Products ( Become a Crib Colorist)

In my never-ending battle to fight brass for all the blondes we have as Killerstrands Fans, I have come up with a wonderful - - effective . . .Brass Eliminator EVER Kit ! This is something I am so pleased with that I just have to try to explain how we HAPPEN TO GET BRASS, SO THAT YOU CAN UNDERSTAND HOW AND WHY TO "get-rid-of-it !"  

So, what we have now is our new 4-STEP Kit - Violet-Blue Based Creamy-Oil Bleach Kit and up until now we had this same kit withOUT the Violet Blue Base. Here is the Kit we have had for 10 years:

  • Step 1: Violet/Blue Creamy Oil Lightener Base
  • Step 2: Glammor Oil (Killerstrands own combo of 3 oils working best on hair follicle)
  • Step 3: Toner Powder : a Blue/Violet Toner Powder
  • Step 4: 20Volume Violet Developer  -We give you this amount but if you want the lightener to be stronger only mix 1.5 ounces with each application
Now the New Kit has one change instead of White Creamy Lightener Base - we now have a Violet/Blue Tinted Base as you see here:

 Which means that Violet/Blue(Pearl) creamy base goes into the hair strand once applied.
Why is that one of the best moves ever?
Because. . . .when is the only time the hair strand is open to have anything permanently changed to its original structure and/or color?
There are 3 times really.........
  1. when hair color, or bleach & developer is applied
  2. when a perm is applied
  3. when a straightener/or relaxer is applied  
those are the only 3 applications we have that will permanently alter the original structure or color of the hair.  Therefore, when that hair strand opens up to let that creamy oil lightener IN.... that is heavenly tinted in blue/Violet, what happens is the colors start draining out of the hair strands......

  Below is a chart of how they start draining out of the hair as the lightener begins its action......
See at the bottom of the graph where the hair is the darkest............that is where the hair begins.... Some of you with coarse or resistant hair ....have you ever tried to go blonde by either a box kit or from some Crap from Sallys?   

Did you end up orange? when you were finished? I have received many a phone call from a panic-stricken person who has begged me to help them get out of their mess of being an Orange or a GOLD or Brass head.....

The reason for this is whatever lightener you used was just not powerful enough or you did not apply it enough times..  Violet/Blue Creamy Lightener is the perfect answer to all Blond's problems.

If you want to go Blond and you are any darker than a Level 8 (virgin).....then you will need our Creamy-Oil Bleach Kit, in my opinion and starting at a LEVEL 6 and darker you are most likely looking at having to apply 2 applications or more (the darker you are). You see Bleach lightener only works fast for the first 70-75 minutes, after that it almost stops working. THEREFORE, if you are not light enough....you MUST Rinse it all out, apply INTENSIVE - RINSE -- Towel Dry and then dry completely and apply a 2nd time...until you have reached NIRVANA ( which is brass-free hair) !
Multiple applications work wonderfully with a gentle moisturizing product. The other way you are screwing your hair up with a completely inadequate product......and then needing to fix it by applying and reapplying products to fix the mess. 

If your hair is not the color of frozen butter after one application {lengths only remember} apply and re-apply additional applications.......If you use our Violet/Blue Creamy Oil Bleach kit and follow my directions about applying for 70-75 minutes Rinse and repeat UNTIL YOUR HAIR IS THE COLOR OF frozen butter. 
Remember you only put these first applications on your LENGTHS  - - - - NOT Your ROOTS. The roots are only to be touched and applied to when there is 40-50 minutes left until finished. 

CHART OF HOW COLOR IS LIFTED FROM  HAIR, AS IT IS Lightened, hair goes thru all above stages. If you do not apply lightener, proper amount of times, the color stops at "gold" or "yellow-gold" or"yellow" the goal is: pale yellow!

 You receive 4 Steps + 2 pairs of gloves + 2 measuring Cups + Directions. This Kit contains 2 applications, so to re-do your roots every 6 weeks, this kit would accomplish that for 2 Re-touches . . .because what you do is SPLIT the Kits ingredients in half.

 Save the other half for 6 weeks from now. This explanation is mainly for all the newbies who have been calling and writing lately, interested in going blonde but their statistics tell me they need an Oil bleach Kit NOT a high-lift blonde.The idea is to always USE THE PROPER PRODUCT FOR YOUR GOAL. Highlift blondes just do not work as well as they did 5-20 years back and I suspect it is the consumer who complains about the ammonia smell. To get a lot of lift you need a lot of ammonia when using a highlift that will actually lighten you to a beautiful shade.

IF....you do not feel comfortable doing the bleach kit yourself the first time, I urge you to purchase the Kit ... take it to your Stylist and tell them you are allergic to any other bleach but this Kit. You will have to pay the same amount, but if you want awesome platinum or blonde hair- with wonderful condition afterwards the only product that should be used is our CREAMY Oil Lightener Kit - I just do not know of another one.......or I would recommend it. !  Everything is in there for her, we have hundreds of people who are doing this, I have thousands who are doing their own - because after they study exactly what their Stylist does and you read every single Post on this Blog that has to do with blonding, lightening, bleach & tone, Oil bleach kit, blonde, blond, etc. ( use those SEARCH words on this blog - for all the posts I want you to read) You WILL ACHIEVE THE CONFIDENCE to do it. Here is a recent Review that may help you :

 I truly feel a lot of you would love to use it, but are afraid. I want you to know that I 100% completely understand and  would like to keep teaching you all as much as I possibly can to put your mind at ease.
Now, when people call and talk to me about what they should use to go blonde "with NO BRASS' is always the request....I tell them please to consider our violet/blue based Creamy Oil Lightener Kit  and that I want to explain the biggest problem plaguing everyonwith Blonde hair. That problem is brass and let me explain WHY brass is the problem for SO very many of you blondes.

WE have to go back to science. Science is the basis of all things TRUE on our planet.  

Knowledge of cosmetics has guided me in tinting the Creamy Oil Bleach Lightener a fantastic shade of VIOLET/BLUE. . . so that it is just one more step in the never-ending fight against brass/gold & Blorange when lightening hair!

A lot of you have referred me to the Guy Tang Instagram account and all of his videos..........this past week I have watched some of them He does color very close to the way I do - so it is heart wrenching to watch for me as it looks like so much fun.......I miss so many things .... sorry....

      But anyway, .....what you take away from his teachings is that he begins most of his looks with platinum hair. We have a bit of a difference there because he is sponsored by OLAPLEX and I am not ! Which I do not fault him for if I could have some corporate sponsorship's I would not say "NO" that is for sure. 

All Top colorists know how to successfully achieve platinum hair without damage, It comes from using an OIL BLEACH Lightener as opposed to powder bleach lightener. I say this over and over ....but I want you all to get it into to get it into your mind that LIPIDS SAVE HAIR CONDITION. LIPIDS = Oils. 

Here is a quote from a study at the NIH : US National Library of Medicine / National Institute of Health, which is our country's largest medical research institution. 
Lipids to the Top of Hair Biology

Little attention has been given to the impact of lipid metabolism on hair follicle biology and pathology. Three recent papers ............ describe a major effect of altered lipid metabolism on hair growth. A direct link was made to at least one form of alopecia, but the role lipids play in other follicular pathologies, such as the acneiform conditions, are inadequately explored and must be tested. 
- In other words, this is saying we are not using Lipids enough to solve all the problems we have with hair ....
from hair loss (alopecia) all the way to scalp conditions. 
That is why I stress that every single one of you should purchase GLEAM.... It is imperative for every single one of your hair.
Clinical Implications
  • Although lipids are a small part of hair composition, cholesterol plays important roles in hair biology....adding oils may and can strengthen hair follicles. (GLEAM is a whole bottle of Lipids & our Oil Cream Violet Blue Lightener Base is jam-packed with lipids we use 4 premium Oils in the OIL step and Oil is added to the Cream Lightener.!)
  • Opportunities for pharmacological intervention in hair disorders may be derived from new knowledge about lipid metabolism.
    Reading as much as I do about hair science, it got me thinking about bringing back the oil bleach kit on my own. 1 year later after listening to all the positive feedback. It hit me, why not make a nice Violet/Blue tinted oil Creamy Base for a Kit so that all of you would begin with a cool Blonde - - - -  NO BRASS. Everyone LOVES it.

    The base looks like these......- - - - - - - ->>
    Brass/Gold is such a plague in the hair of every blonde in our country I am completely flabbergasted that the large manufacturers - have not taken it on in a more serious way.

I am constantly trying to think of ways to beat it. There is nothing more satisfying than solving a hair color problem that no one else can. The main solution the large corporations have offered you to solve the out-of-control problem of Brass/Gold/Blorange hair is the constant flow of purple shampoo's and conditioners.... But to me that is not a solution
 .........it is a MASK. 

Solutions are much better than MASK'S I promise you. 

 We have started by offering a Violet blue Based Oil Bleach Kit. Up until now we only offered a white combination Cream + Oil Bleach Lightener Base. For our 4 part Oil bleach Kit as you see here:

 The Entire Kit looks like this:
 In one Kit you have 2 applications. If you have never been platinum my motto is :
Everyone should try it once in life ( unless you are a natural red-head). 
Its fun, its liberating and right now with all the fun pastels and colors - just about everything is acceptable anymore.
You receive the directions........2 measuring cups (although we prefer you weigh your items) . 2 pairs of Gloves.
When going platinum we strongly recommend THRIVEN our DEEP Blonditioner ....or Deep conditioner for very lightened or compromised hair.

Here are 3 purple BOOST & BURST that will help you win the battle against brass:
  • PERP - our lightest violet
  • VIOLET PILOT  - medium Purple
  • PRINCE _ DEEPEST purple ever!


Toners are a useful part of the hair coloring process - some more than others....but if you are a Level 9 thru 12 Blonde most of you either want them or need them. They CAN be one of the most fun aspects of hair coloring because most are Demi-Permanent which means they wash out (somewhat) but they DO leave a line of Demarcation (which comes from using any Volume Developer.  If you do not want that line and you need a Toner.....then it is time to head over to our BOOST & BURST page of truly Semi-Permanent Hair Color Toners as the Pigment is in either a Shampoo or a Conditioner - using ZERO Developer - - - THUS .........NO Line of Demarcation ! Yahoooey !

The following toners are divided up into which DURP they fight. DURP is Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment or in other words .....the tones in your hair that you HATE ! ! 

Like BRASS, Gold, Blorange, Red or Green. That is the list by its popularity.

I Truly think Wella's COLOR TOUCH Line is the best line for fighting these annoying tones.....and I don't think many of you have gotten that message. About 5 years ago the company made some changes to the tones they used So If you are looking for Toners that fight Brass/GOLD you would order one of these:

  • 10/1A - 10 ASH which has a Blue/Violet Base and is very light so  Level 10
  • 10/6V - 10 VIOLET - my single fav' Level 10 Toner- Violet based + fights Brass like a champ
  • 9/16 AV - 10 ASH/VIOLET- bit darker - Level 9 Violet/Blue Based toner fights Brass/Gold/Blorange
  • 10/81PA - 10 PEARL/ASH - These begin to look more Silver and are extra good at fighting Blorange
  • 8/81PA - 8 PEARL/ASH - looks Silver, again it fights Blorange well...darkens hair to Level 8 Blonde
  • 7/89PC - 7 PEARL/CENDRE - Xtremely Silver & Level 7 so Dark Silver, looking up Cendre... the definition is "ASH" ! ! So A Level 7 Silver - Great for those with strong BLORANGE as well.

In using Color Touch as Toners they provide 2 Developers : 6 & 13 Volume, Use 6 if you are looking for something more mild, some of you come here and have very damaged hair so if you need a Toner while your hair is damaged this is your selection - otherwise you would want to use the 13Volume, it will last a lot longer.
Remember you can fight Brass even better with BOOST & BURST! true semi-perm. color. 

The DEVELOPER RATIO for Color Touch is 2:1...........so for every 1 part of color you use 2 parts of developer. It is also important to get the manner in which you mix the hair color and developer correct. You would have the hair parted and clipped and ready to color....apply your Crib Colorist Cape ...(see below) .

 BECAUSE . . . . Color Touch uses the 1:2 Ratio, it produces a LOT MORE COLOR to use.... than say Koleston Perfect...which is 1 : 1 . Which is good because most people who need or want a toner, they want it to apply to their lengths. Getting the Developer RATIO is very important in the world of Hair Color. Every single line that is out there has a different ratio and if you do not follow it you will for sure not have a good outcome.

Check every single line of color for its Developer Ratio

OK, then take the tube and squeeze in 1 ounce of color - then add 2 ounces of 13Volume....stir very well so it turns into a very creamy mixture. Color Touch has a super low content of ammonia, most has ZERO and is the most pleasant fragrance and wonderful texture to work with of any color I have ever used....you will see.

Now you can take any color of Color Touch use one of these developers and basically call that a toner is  ! ! !  Certain ones are better than others. If you're stumped call or email us and I will get back to you with an answer for you.

How would I explain a Toner?? Its a useful Tool to fight annoying DURP (dominant-underlying-remaining-pigment), that is left in your hair after lightening . Everyone has a little remaining unwanted yellow - GOLD is the strongest and hardest to remove pigment in the hair strand. It doesn't matter what color hair you have .........its that way for ALL of us.

Paul Mitchell has a set of beautiful blond toners
These are gigantic Tubes & depending on length and thickness of hair this tube could produce 1 to even 3 toner applications...most tubes of color are 2 oz. , this one is 3 oz. & remember you add developer to these so it makes a lot of product and the # 1 thing you want to do when measuring hair color is to try to get the amount you mix correct. So you aren't throwing hair color down the drain. You can mix 2 small batches if you don't have any idea and want to learn.

The names are depicted by the 3 letter acronym UTA, UTN, UTPN, & UTV
Ultra Toner Ash, Ultra Toner Neutral, Ultra Toner Pearl Neutral & Ultra Toner Violet
Some of the most efficient Toners we have are in our new Line of pigmented Shampoos & Conditioners that are made by KC herself. If you have followed KC at all you will know that her products made with her experience, quality ingredients and love for what she does makes them, very effective.

First of All we have VIOLET PILOT,
Violet Pilot - Killerstrands hair Clinic
Then 2nd & 3rd most popular Blond Toners are BREAKING BAD BLUE  ........& Wink. Perry . Wink.........both Blues but each a little different from the other. Breaking Bad Blue is Violet & Blue mixed together but heavier on the Blue......WINK is BLUE/VIOLET with ......therefore it is made for those of you with GOLD as your main problem. The problem with hair color Toners is , they always wash out.....with BOOST & BURST you are putting them in constantly so that you may control the amount of color you use....control the lightness/darkness and the tone. What most of you will have to do is use Boost /Burst a couple times in a row, then you have enough color deposited that you can back off to once or twice a week and maybe only using one or the other.....E-V-E-R-Y  S-I-N-G-L-E  one of you will discover a different plan for how often you use them and how long you leave them on....but know this: THEY WORK WONDERFULLY against DURP  { which is Dominant-Underlying-Remaining-Pigment , those tones in your hair that you just do NOT LIKE ! ! ! } simply wash and condition your hair as you would ANYWAY and your blonde is toned better than it has ever been.

I truly suggest you purchase both......but BOOST (the Shampoo) is much lighter than BURST (the Conditioner) ....so if you have some heavy pigment to fight brass/gold or Blorange - be sure you get BURST....( the conditioner) .........Maserati is BLUE/BLUE/VIOLET & another one if you have a lot of blorange or GOLD.....all 3 of these are wonderful for those problems.....

Now if you have use our Oil Bleach Kit and you have your hair pretty light blond...... one of the most fun BOOST & BURST COLORS to try next is Carbon Beach Beige. Obviously its "Beige" and its a BBBBBBBBBeautiful beige so your hair turns into that gorgeous color of BEIGE BLONDE you see on women yet you cannot figure out how to get it.

 These reviews are just a handful that come in the first 2 weeks after introducing the Violet-Blue based Cream lightener Kit.
_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _  

Yes, one may apply a brunette toner on top of bown hair or even black..............but for this page of Toners they are all my choices for the best Blonde Brass fighters that inspire SHINE as well as fighting brass and leaving you with a beautiful Tone in your hair. In using Toners one would chose from the following developer selection:

  • 6 Volume.........(both 6 & 13 are Color Touch Developers - they have this wonderful soft pleasant scent and are the most gentle - shine producing developers u will use with a Toner, if you have fragile hair this would be your choice)
  • 10 Volume.......(this would be Koleston perfect)
  • 13 Volume......(this is the one I use most)
Matrix Color Sync Demio-Permanent Toners Toners are the same as Demi-Permanent Hair Color....and 'why'?

Because categories of hair color are created by the Volume of Developer you use.

 The first 3 are Toners I have been using for nearly 20 years, I love all 3 colors, they are sheer....gentle....and have the perfect appropriate bases ( violet, blue + violet/blue --- which is considered PEARL!) for blonde/platinum hair. I call adding SPV and SPA the "MARILYN" Toner giving you the Marilyn Monroe tone. Here are the 3 swatches, which are difficult to see,but trust me they are awesome.

Love to ALL
Killer Chemist