July 23, 2016

50 Shades of Silver...(Hair That Is)

Many people turn gray a lot earlier than you think - high school is when many begin the
romp into lovely Silver Strands. Just yesterday I was talking with a woman at the grocery store who was scratching her head. I asked her if she had just got her hair colored and..........she did . . . she was floored that I knew that. But, its a common site from people who are not colored correctly.  I asked her if she had much gray and she replied, "a ton"........."I started getting gray when I was 18, so I have been coloring my hair over 28 years (as she thought about how old her son was)."  She said she had never had an itchy scalp before. I decided to see if she was open to some education...I told her if you have that much gray you should,
"Try to not shampoo your hair after coloring for at least 48 hours"
She was surprised to hear that fact. So I started wondering if I had truly gone over the subject of 
"gray hair coverage" to everyone and how to truly get good gray coverage and keep it covered.

When gray first appears, most top Colorists will begin with the Demi-permanent approach....here at Killerstrands I just love the Wella Color Touch line. To me that is the single most versatile, gentle, beautiful and awesome line of hair color. We use it for everything in professional hair color. As far as for gray coverage it is opaque and if you have fine/medium hair, you can begin with 6 Volume developer for your first treatment on brand new gray hair -- the next Step would be using 13 volume Developer in the same line, for as long as that choice lasts and then the next Step up would be 20Volume ( permanent)

There is only one type of hair that will put up a wall against Demi color working and that is

coarse hair. The coarser the hair the more likely a permanent color option may be the only answer. But, the best plan for covering gray over your lifetime is to start at the lowest........... least radical ..........hair color ( lowest Volume of developer) and work your way up the strength of hair color options as the years goes by. Any good Colorist works this way on all regular normal "gray coverage" hair color Clientele. I say "regular" because you can cover gray hair by going platinum if you want, to me I love that answer the best, but it IS costly and it is "HIGH MAINTENANCE"...........I always say if something is costly and high maintenance it probably ROCKS . . . and platinum Hair does Rock !

There are people who look wonderful in gray, and a lot of you lately I hear from are getting fed up with the constant coloring especially when the percentage of gray hair is 50% and above and are reaching towards letting your gray grow out and just going for the la natural look!. For those with that I do understand the frustration and I have changed my tune about whether I think people should try it or not. When I was in the Salon I had a couple each week decide to try that....and I would say 8 out of 10 hated it and turned back. But the times are changing and trying it is worth it, you can always go back to hair color.

One of the best ways to grow that silver hair is to use our BOOST and BURST in CHROME Chocolate. 

Which is our single richest color. It is Silver/Brown and it comes out beautiful and breaks up the line of demarcation., really nicely!

 . I have taken people from their 50/50 gray, which means 50% of their hair is gray and 50% is their natural....to gray and they end up going back it DOES age you remember....and my suggestion for a good "rule of thumb" is. . .don't go until you are 100% ready. Before that, most likely means, YOU ARE NOT READY!

I want to talk to those that have super-duper Stubborn gray. You all know who you are, it means your gray coverage doesn't even last 1 month. Which means 1 of 2 things.............you have the wrong formula (90% of you)  OR.........you have very coarse, SUPER resistant hair (10% the rest of you!)  and it needs Pre-treating.  This is one of those treatments hair stylists don't talk about and truthfully I think I have only needed it a couple dozen times in all my years of coloring hair. But this could be what some of you need. Remember this is ONLY FOR THOSE with super COARSE hair. 
There is a process call "pre-treating" or "pre-softening"............pre-softening works with very resistant gray hair.It opens up the cuticle BE-FORE you color. 
Just take 10 Volume Developer STRAIGHT....
Apply 10 volume just on the gray re-growth for 10 minutes .........then wipe off............then apply the PROPER color formulation immediately after ward in the normal fashion.

More than 75% of USA women color their hair and gray coverage is the number one reason....you have to admit it is the cheapest, safest and quickest way to look younger........and NO Knife!

For the youth of America the absolute best way ( I have tried everything) to get Silver and STAY Silver...is by Bleaching the hair platinum and then follow it up with BOOST (the shampoo) and BURST ( the Conditioner )

I receive calls every week from men & women having hard times with their gray coverage.....9 times out of 10 they have the incorrect formula or incorrect product. Covering Gray is an art and if you are not a master of it you will not have a thriving clientele. There IS a way to cover every type of gray hair on planet earth. Some harder than others.

The number 1 mistake most of you make is not using a hair color line like its supposed to be used. You are suppose to choose this certain category for Gray coverage....(Neutrals or the /0 ZERO category)
....this other category to fight unwanted tones - Ash - Matt & Violet ......
and another category for your target shade......all the target shades out there.....

 Which is why I always say using less than 3 colors in a formula really makes little sense to me. That is how I was taught and over the years it proved to be a fantastic education in building a very fast - large thriving clientele because they were very very happy with my work.   
Since gray hair is missing the 3 primary colors (red, yellow & blue) You need many various colors/tones to replace what is missing. 

Be First to Post Comment !
Post a Comment

All comments are moderated. Please do not include: references to personal information, or any profane, inflammatory or copyrighted comments. We would appreciate it if we all stick to the subject of HAIR . Have a wonderful day.