April 26, 2009

Don't Ever Try To Write a 2 - Part Series


New Basics Today - 20 Basics earlier This Week

which this stupid Windows Live Writer Program eliminated. . . . sorry . . . . This is the 2nd part of the 2 part 40 Statement POST.

I GIVE UP . . ..

Roll with Crib Colorist Artists; taking note of the next 20 Basics
1. Always - ALWAYS run a test strand. Especially when trying out any of Killer Strands Ideas. Many think if you use public hair color( Sally's Beauty & the like) and imitate my techniques, the results will come out the same - nothing could be further from the truth. When I began this blog, I was also under that false impression - so I understand you thinking so. After many complaints - which led me to testing of the products -- I myself learned the difference between the 2. The difference is remarkable, therefore any Posts I have written in the first year of this Blog - need to be amended - all those suggestions: of using certain "public brands" need to be eliminated. Until I get time to do that all of that, please NOTE this recommendation.
2. When doing a 2 process color (bleach & tone), lift 1/iStock_000005979465Medium2 to 1 full level, lighter than your desired color to ensure desired results.
3. When you are lightening hair color, you are not actually dealing with brown, you are dealing with the underlying remaining pigment, which is usually red, orange, gold or yellow.

4. Warmth is released when you begin to lighten hair. Red and Yellow tones will dominate, because the first pigment to leave during lightening is blue.
5. Fillers used on both depositing and high lifting. I "will" be going over this in detail - soon.
6. Never use HEAT with hair color, Stylists use heat to "buy time", I cannot think of one hair color whose directions require heat.
7. When choosing your next hair color, try not to rush into things, consider your lifestyle - consider your economic status - most importantly - consider your hair type & health. If really not sure, you can always purchase a HHCC Home Hair Color Consultation, which basically costs you $15.00 for my help.
8. For the best results use premium Developer, with professional hair color comes a much higher quality developer.
9. Mix together small amounts of color at a time. Pro Hair Color has a "freshness" factor, once the developer & the tint are mixed together - the faster you get it applied, the better. Use enough product, but do not waste.
10. Re-mixing is a better course to take than mixing all at once and having to throwing away excess. Hair Color to Professionals is the number 1 expense, so learning to work thrifty with it, is advantageous to them - I would think the same would affect everyone.
11. Permanent Tint is the most effective way to color hair.
12. Neat, small accurate applications make for successful coverage and contrary to what some might think, actually take less time + allow more control. 71434532
13. Precise parting & sectioning will help, when it comes to both application and coverage, so practice - practice - practice.
14. Extra peroxide or a 2:1 ratio increases lifting ability of any volume.
15. 80% of problems in Hair Color come from misjudging the base or existing level.1574R-26107
16. To make a missing Level ......... mix (roughly) 2 parts of the lighter level color with 1 part of the darker level. For example, say you need a Level 7 N......... in the cupboard you have a tube of 8N and 6N. Add ..............2 parts of 8N with 1 part of 6N = the result will be a perfect 7N.
17. Foil work is an art and should be treated as such. Precision work requires practice-practice -practice.
18. Discard all mixed product not used.
19. Level 7, by the way, is the most difficult Level to get past, hence the difficulties with brassy colors.
20. There are 4 types of hair color: Temporary, Semi Permanent, Demi Permanent, Permanent Hair Color.
Killer Chemist
April 22, 2009

True Words Come From The Trenches

 I love when I receive enthusiastic - educational emails from my Readers, especially ones that do their homework
Thanks,  Lizzy

Hi I would like to order colorissmo 100A, white genie and rencolor toner - moonlight. 
You offer the best highlift color!!!!! Thank you!!!!

When I had a consultation with you in the fall this is what you reccommended for me to use. I had a little scare and was hesitant to try again. Since then I have used redken 10 (at the salon - did not lift at all) with highlights, schwatzkoph 12-1 with color charm white lady toner ( kinda brassy) ( Is what I had at home and appplied to roots only), and matrix high lift with highlights as well(at salon- this was the best of the three). None of these base colors could compare to the great icey tone I achieved from this mixture. You know your stuff
With Regards,
Lizzy C.
April 15, 2009

Octo-Colorist : Using 8 Colors is Normal for This Colorist

Octo-mom has too many kids. . . I use too many colors, but that's where the similarities END - completely
I've always felt the goal of my foil work in color was to make each clients hair look as close to a childs as possible.
Someday just look at a 10 or an 8 or even a 12 year olds hair ( if it is Level 7 thru 10) they just have so many tones and so many levels in it, I decided long ago that was to be a goal of mine in foils.
Currently the trend is not for multiple colors in hair, but truthfully it is my one true love as far as Color. There would be many times I would use between 6 & 8 colors in foils using the slices technique... one of the reasons for my quick success I believe. . . . in Malibu no one did that. 
Actually at Sassoon.... no one went to that trouble. . .I just loved the results.
The only hard part about it? 
Mixing the bowls up , 
but at the time I had a couple of great assistants
that loved having projects to do.. 
I'm sure they took that trick to their practice as well.
Being an Intern or assistant in any field
is the single best way to advance
April 7, 2009

Fire Me Up . . . Passionate Reds in Hair Styles For You

April 2, 2009

Killer Chemist to all Killer Stranders

Very Sweet of You,