Battle of the Highlift Blond VERSUS Bleach - Photo Demo: See For Yourself

This an old post from 2008 and I wanted to show you that at one time there existed a highlift that could PROPERLY Lift hair to blonde with ZERO brass from a Level 5-6 ......  which the dollhead came with...... 

I found these old photos and I'm just so very upset that 8 years ago we had a highlift blonde that lifted hair from a Level 5-6 to a Level 11 - virtually
BRASS-FREE

This was a demo displaying how to apply these 

Finally I have the end of the TRIXIE transformation. The battle between the highlift blonds and bleach and how far a highlift blond can really go . I'm sorry my program for writing my posts is screwed up so todays post is going to be very half-assed until I can figure out how to fix it. . .

Proceeding with Trixie to the front quadrants. . . on the right side as you see here I applied Oil Bleach and 20Volume - starting at the bottom of the quadrant and going up in 1/2 inch partings, moving as quickly but as carefully as you can.
Then on the left side of her hair : I used Renbow 100A + White Genie + 40 Volume
the White Genie being the key to this high level of lift. As you will see it equalled the lift of bleach!
Always - Always use INTENSIVE ( changed from IN DEPTH to our INTENSIVE in 2010!) after every single color procedure as you color. . . .Locks in color and equlizes the pH (which locks in color l

On the left BACK quadrant I have used Renbow 100A + 40 Volume = NO White Genie was used. As you can see the result is about a 8NG, which to some is a perfectly fine level to reach, and it does depend on your goals . . . but in this case we were headed towards a level 10 and the result with a High Lift Blonde and 40 Volume does not get there - not on a Level 4-5 Base.

See the result?

Bleach VERSUS High lift and White Genie produces about the same result . . .

as you can now see with your own eyes. The left back quadrant also shows that a straight HIGH LIFT Blond can only lift SO FAR . . . as you can see it gets to about a Level 8 and that's it!

Here I have applied the TONERS on both sides.

Remember it is called a BLEACH and TONE,

ALWAYS - ALWAYS - tone your hair. The best? Color Touch..

 YES - apply INTENSIVE again . . . . you will thank me in the end.

 






HERE we













GO........TRIXIE finished . . .Wasn't that hard . . . or that bad . . . do you think?

     

 See the back left quadrant, is the only one that didn't turn out light enough - although you can't really tell in these photos. . .

Finished TRIXIE
So, what do you think>? excuse the make-up my girlfriends daughter went nuts with markers! ! !  she thought it was beautiful ! ! ! 

What questions do you have?

I mean if you are totally opposed to bleach you can now see that it can be equaled WITH A HAIR COLOR THAT WAS MADE FOR 20 YEARS.
It was first made in Italy and then the USA invited him over here and he made it in Pennsylvania or one of those little states in that area.....until he sold the company to Paul Mitchell......... the chemists were so upset at how Mitchell ran the company {cut their salary} they took the secret to the formula and moved to another company I was told. 

Somewhere out there is a couple of cosmetic chemists with gold in their phones/laptops ! ! ! !

I mean ONLY by using a High-lift Blonde by Renbow --- we could achieve a beautiful brass-free blonde on a doll head no less - (they are harder to lift than regular human hair on a human body)

So in 2008 there was a highlift that lightened Level 5-6 hair color - - - - to a beautiful blonde color color.

......I DO NOT UNDERSTAND WHY THAT CANNOT BE DUPLICATED TODAY? ? ? ? ? ? ?

I still own A COUPLE TUBES OF THAT COLOR, 
IF ANYONE FROM ANY HAIR COLOR COMPANY IS WILLING TO TAKE THIS TASK ON .........

PLEASE EMAIL OR CALL ME - LETS GET THIS DONE,
 WHOMEVER TAKES THIS ON  . . . .
You will be a very rich entrepreneur afterwards - just ask any hair colorist. 

........DO YOU KNOW HOW MANY WOMEN 

.........................IN THIS COUNTRY 

..............ASK FOR THIS VERY THING 

........EVERY SINGLE DAY 

...OF 

..........EVERY SINGLE MONTH 

...............OF 

.......................EVERY SINGLE YEAR ? ? ?

10's of Thousands. . . .

If I was well I would take this on . . . 

So I challenge someone  - - -
anywhere 

who is looking for a smart investment

email: Killerstrasnds.info@gmail.com

KC
Killer Chemist

What Is the Difference Between High-lift Blond & Blonde Hair Color?

I am answering Group Member's Hair Questions This Month....this is a great question Regarding Terminology in Blonding..

 Hi KC,
I am a little confused about whether to use the highlift blonde colors vs 'regular' blondes, I am scared to use high lift in case I get too blonde (don't want the platinum look!). I have level 6 mousy blonde naturally, my colorist has been doing a blonde base color on the roots (no idea what color) every 6-8 weeks, plus foil highlights (partial) usually every other visit.  However, I'm not happy with the color or service, the color on the length is probably level 9-10, bit yellowy and the roots seem to get a little brassy/orangey a couple weeks after I get it done, and I want to start doing it myself to save money and time on the salon visits.  I travel a lot on business and so many times have to cancel appts, then it's hard to get in when I want to at short notice, they always make me wait and the whole appt. including drive time can take 4hrs! What I would like to achieve is level 9-10 beige blonde. Seems like I should choose an X factor color, maybe a level 10? With a toner? But maybe a high-lift level 12 instead? And any thing I choose should just go on the roots until the rest of the existing color grows out? It's so confusing!
Hair is long, below shoulder length very fine, good condition.
Thanks for any advice!
L.

 L.,

 I bet you would be surprised by how many people ask this question. !! It sounds like a headache trying to get your hair done correctly, doing it yourself would be the perfect answer for you. As with any talent or job....how do you become confident in what you are doing?  You educate yourself on the subject. 

 While you are traveling you have plenty of time to read...so begin reading the Blog from the beginning.... skim the Posts and read the ones that pertain to what you want to learn (hair color). You can learn to be very confident choosing and applying your own hair-color I promise you. It sounds like you are trying to learn it all in a day or two..... THAT is when it becomes confusing. We have hundreds of excellent Crib Colorists in our Group, you can be one too.

 Now, to answer your question...............

People let the "high-lift" term freak them out sometimes and honestly it is just a marketing 'term' is all.  What happened was: there were originally Levels 1 thru 10 only and if you look at any swatch charts you can tell that.

~~~~~~~~~~~~ HAIR COLOR SWATCH CHART(above)~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 One of the hair color company's (WELLA) developed 2 more levels LIGHTER.....than the 'Level 10'. So, here they were, they came up with this UNIVERSAL HAIR COLOR LEVEL CHART.... they had even got many of the other lines to go along with this idea....and BAM! ... 2 new lighter colors were introduced. What those 2 colors are.... in reality are a  Level 11 and a  Level 12, and that is all. That is exactly what you were talking about "L." So GOOD JOB, my dear!

There is no 'super booster' in those colors, there is no 'secret high-lift juice' in the tube......it is just the next color lighter on a chart that originally was Level 1 thru 10. So, what happened next?  
 In comes the big marketing Team. Wella asks them how to 'market' the 2 new lighter colors they have developed when in reality they have had a Swatch chart with 10 levels for the past 30 years. In my opinion... the Marketing people decided to name it "highlift blond"..... and they decided not to call it what it was....... a Level 11 & level 12. Which is what happens when you ask a layman to do what is a Stylist/Colorists job.
What all this means?
There really is no such thing as a "high-lift" blond. As you will notice in the dictionary that word doesn't even exist.  It really is just a Level 11 or Level 12 color...most " highlift blonde's" you see in the hundreds of lines are just called Level 12. Then most will assign from 3 to 6 tonal qualities to each tube. You will see 12.10A (ash) or 12.00N (neutral) or what I suggest for you: 12.20: super high lift violet blonde....oh my Lord, I never even 
noticed it said that. There that shows you how silly some of these companies can be. Remember these lines are trying to
This is a very long answer to your short question about the term "highlift". Does that make sense to you? I hope so.
So, do not worry AT ALL about using the Level 12 colors, because there is no "super duper light lifter" in those colors I promise you. Its just a marketing ploy aimed at Colorists/Stylists. 

Remember I have let all you Crib Colorists into the world of Professional hair color - something that was unavailable to your brain and hands a few years ago. I mean I call it a high-lift because the hair color companies have crammed that term down my throat....I really should just say Level 12. So, please do not worry about using these colors.

Now for the specific answer to your questions:

• you cannot go platinum from a high-lift - Level 12 blond...when you are a Level 6 - so please do not worry about that being a problem. It just won't happen. Sounds like she was using a high-lift blond on you and not leaving it on long enough or it was an inferior brand (or one of multiple other reasons).
•  sounds like you have not read much of my Blog....once you understand Color Theory, then you will understand which color you need to use to cancel the orange-y yellow-y . We call those yucky colors: DURP (Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment). So your DURP is orange-y yellow-y. You then look at the color wheel for your answers to the proper color to use, with what you have on your head. Using the opposite color from the color you are fighting - is how one can cancel the obnoxious tones in hair coloring. You see where the yellow-orange-y is.....??? in order to cancel those colors out?? Follow a line across the wheel....you  must use a Blond color with a violet-blue BASE.

 I hope this helps you . . . there are plenty of posts on Hair Color Theory.....and on going Blond on the front Guide to Posts....right hand side.

Thank You...

Hairitage : Bleach Versus "High Lift" Blonding : the Lifelong battle

Maybe some Technical Aspects May Help You Decide

Here's the problem: Clients come in for professional hair color and ask for a certain blond ( light - baby wheat blond - like Gwen, Reece, Kate, Pamela, Gywneth, or Madonna - just NOT a yellow/brassy blond) then comes this request: but could you please NOT use bleach. They have a million reasons why they don't want me to use it, ranging from:

• it smells terrible
• my cousins hair looks terrible & she used it
• it burns hair off
• how could anything with the word "bleach" be good on hair
• my sister used it and all her hair fell off - -
• and every single thing in between

This went on for years ( btw : and still does !) therefore >> the hair color manufacturers heard this and went to work on something to answer this problem.

Why?

What is the first rule in creating a successful product or service?

** Find a "need" and FILL it **

OR

** Find a "problem" and SOLVE it **

Thus came this new big roll out of a new product to fill that need.
HIGH-LIFT Blond Hair Color
Some claiming they used double 40 Volume as a big grand answer to more incredible lift (which truly has nothing to do with the "lift"). This was probably about 16-17 years ago, just before I got into the biz, because it was brand new when I started - although its very hard to find info on the technical beginnings of this branch of hair color. As a beginning Colorist I didn't get the picture back then, not like I get it all now. As a well-rounded Colorist, now I feel I can sum up what it is and how effective it is or isn't. After 10,000 heads you get a feel for it.

The reason I feel you should understand this? Because they have High-Lift Blond "CLAIMS" everywhere now, and I want you to watch out for them. Most are bogus and they are the reason for many of the color corrections I have had to do over the years.

Color Correction became my specialty . . . I never pursued it, but there wasn't a soul in all of Malibu who did them, so I began taking them in slowly at the beginning. Its a specialty no one really wants, you are never paid enough for the time that goes into them, there is no book, no guideline, its a very tricky process because every single person has a different problem and story. There are never 2 of the same, think about that. Can you say NIGHTMARE ? This is why I know what I speak of when I tell you the stories I do. For 9 years every tricky color correction was funneled to me from all the stylists in town...its usually like that in every city across America, there is one Color Correction specialist. So if you need one - just ask a few hairstylists , they will know who it is. In Malibu they came to me so they wouldn't have to drive the 30 miles into the city and probably pay 30 times the price! With that said, here is my take on the High Lift Blond Battle.

"High Lift Blond" is basically, the marketing of the words themselves is really all they came up with. Making it sound like there is finally an answer to the problem of using bleach on the hair - it was an excellent marketing strategy, I wish I knew which company thought it up. The words "High Lift" must mean it lifts the hair Lighter than anything ever made. Thank the Lord. Its marketing boys and girls, pure marketing. What they did technically was ADD more ammonia to the existing blonds they had. The LEVEL 10 Blonds they had, including Level 10 Ash Blond - Level 10 Neutral Blond- Level 10 Gold Blond - all the standard highest lifting blonds they made ...they just added more ammonia. Ammonia is used in hair coloring to raise the pH - raising the pH allows the solution to penetrate the hair. Ammonia is an alkali; it swells the hair shaft, promoting penetration. It is also a catalyst and its primary purpose is to facilitate lightening by releasing oxygen, supplied by the developer.

The higher the Level of Color you are using the more ammonia (lift) and the less pigment (deposit). The lower the level, the less lift and the greater deposit. That's why a medium blond will cover gray better than a very light blond.

Too much ammonia is unnecessarily damaging but without ammonia, penetration, lightening and dye development simply does NOT happen. Ammonia or something like it is necessary for hair color to work. Manufacturers strive to put in just enough -- and not too much -- ammonia in their permanent hair coloring products - lighteners as well - its a very tricky procedure. Think about that when some of you go looking for organic hair color without ammonia. Yes, it won't smell yucky, but how in the world will it work correctly ? That is the biggest problem I find when the whole "natural - organic" hair color topic comes up - so think about that.

High lift blonds contain the most ammonia, to have the fastest and highest lift cycle. That much ammonia in darker colors would be overkill. Really great Colorists are aware of all these little tricks and tips I have given you here . . . I want you to at least read them once. . . hopefully you will come back and re-read them, its not an easy concept to grasp, I know I've watched many a blank stare on my assistants faces and these are young eager to learn - right out of Cosmo-School kids!

So that is how and why and WHAT high lift blonds are. But the real answer to: how many levels does a high lift blond lift? : I truly believe maybe, just maybe they have increased the lift by 1/2 to one LEVEL more than the 2-3 levels a Level 10 can and that is all. Every single company claims theirs can lift, 5-6-7 Levels - that simply is NOT TRUE. I've run multiple tests on over 15 companies high-lift blondes so I would have my own tests in front of my face and my own eyeballs - so I knew for sure - what they could and could NOT do. I like to think a High-Lift Blond will lift 3 maybe 4 levels depending on the porosity of the hair -

P E R I O D . 

That is your key and your guide to High-lifts, never think they will lift more than that........and that is PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR ONLY. Anything else? Under 3 levels PERIOD -- probably 2.

Hope This helps.
Killer Chemist

High-Lift Blond, Achieving Lightest Blond – Zero Bleach

Battle of High Lift Blond Brands

I believe the last big new technology we’ve had in hair color was the product MAGMA, which is a one-step bleach and tone. Before that the next newest technology was the introduction of the high-lift blonde. Whoever coined the term “high-lift blonde” – should win an award… its brilliant. I mean if you are going to either go to a Salon and ask for a “blond” or chose one to do to yourself, wouldn’t the “high-lift blond” be the one you wanted to use? As opposed to just the “blond”? I certainly would . . . I mean to use a “high-lift blond” as opposed to a “bleach”….well of course you are going to choose the “high-lift'’ I mean – who wouldn’t? Just trying to make you all well aware of the “WORDING” used in this world of hair color and how misguiding it can be and to watch out for it. There are so many other factors to consider before choosing a process just for the “name”….PLEASE PLEASE do your homework, before asking from a Colorist, or performing on yourself. The technique called, “Bleach & Tone” versus the technique “High-lift Blond” are the 2 most popular blonding techniques and each of them are wonderful applications. Just depends the hair you are performing them on and the result you are seeking.
Many of you probably think blond is blond. Well, as in any art - - - there are hundreds of degrees of blonding…. from the darkest
level 7 Blond
to a
Level 8 Blond
to a
Level 9 Blond
to a
Level 10 Blond

to a
Level 11 Blond
or to the famous Marilyn Monroe
Level 12 Platinum Blond

Look at the range in just those 5 levels of blondes. They are completely different. Its always been my feeling that the Level System is just way TO SMALL. I mean for 50 years it was level 1 through 10, then about 18 years ago they added level 11 & 12 when the HIGHLIFT Tints were introduced to the world of Hair Color. To me I see such a vast amount difference from one level to another that I feel, at the bare minimum - - - the System should have 20 Levels not 12…or 24 would be even better. That way there wouldn’t be such a radical difference between 2 levels. I mean Level 1-2-3 are so close you need a magnifying glass and a headlight to distinguish them all from each other, they are so damn dark. But between level 6 and 7 it is a huge difference…..as well as between Level 7 and 8. When people ask me for a level estimation I almost always use 2 numbers to distinguish which end of the Level I am talking( or thinking) about. I will say “ oh you are a 7-8 if its on the lighter end of a Level 7 or a 6-7 if its on the darker end of a 7 ! Which is why I feel we need a 20 Level System as opposed to a 12 level system.


Now with the recent experience with Renbow, I went on a mission to try to test all the high-lift blonds on the market. We used to do this annually ( every january) within the Salon, when I had multiple assistants…all my assistants were always students from Sassoon so they were schooled in the same strict standards I was . . . as goofy as some may think it to be . . . I saw many talented individuals come out of that school. This time I have been doing it, which is good for me to actually see for myself & that way I can write from first hand experience as well.


I have been experimenting with processing times, on 2 different levels of virgin hair…. level 5-6 and on Level 7-8 with various brands of high-lifts . . going off of what other Colorists I know use and like. You know something else I discovered? There are a few lines that hav . So that is a definite winner and being added to the Store and my list of “loves” ! I am actually very excited about the entire move and change…..as I found at least 6 new high-lifts that I am proud to introduce to you and that I will be using myself…. I always restricted myself to using 100A exclusively…which was a pain in the ass, because “getting” it was a frickin’ nightmare….NOW I have so many options….something a busy colorist needs.. The high-lift blond kit is the number 1 selling hair color BY FAR on Killer Strands - - - of all the colors we carry, so that is why I have done this . . . I know this bores the brunettes . . . but have a heart for your fellow platinum-haired vixens! Apparently we have a lot of blonds out there, and I just thought it was here in California that people liked to adorn those golden locks . . . but I guess not.

Now with every single one of my strand tests I processed them for a minimum of 75-90 minutes, and I use a plastic cap over them to keep warmth “in” as I do on my clients. I know my Stylists who use hair dryers but that is where the hair receives its most damage… if you use the body’s own warmth and perform the process in a warm room - - the health of the hair stays INTACT.

 
The other 2 brands so far that I want to recommend are Schwarzkopf who’s 12.0 N which is a neutral . . and its /1 series is Lavender based Ash I was just thrilled to find out as well. Now Schwarzkopf was a brand we used way back at Sassoon but it was bought out by an American company so I lost interest in it - - quite a while ago. But, remembering back, yes, we all liked the high-lifts made by them a way back when……….. Something interesting to you . . . Schwarzkopf is the company that developed VANISH, a long long LOOOOOOOONG time ago when it was called modulat. So I was glued to this company via Modulat for years.. Then the owner sold Modulat off - the patent and the whole shebang for millions… But anyway…. what I have discovered is Schwatrzkopf’s 12.1 ASH is the single best HIGH-Lift on its own. No booster. So the replacement for Renbow’s 100A {our number 1 selling color ( by a LOT= btw) } is Schwarzkopf's 12.1. Now they also make a booster . . . which they call a Blonding “Extract” . . . which can be added. I haven’t even tried it yet, as I didn’t see a need to the 12.1 A …..maybe a tad with 12.0 N…and the 12.4 B (Beige) . . . they were all gorgeous without a booster. But for those of you with a need for more lift, I will definitely carry the Blonding EXTRACT – Schwatrzkopf.

Then the 3rd high lift that was yummy was MATRIX’s ( which surprised me) but then I remembered that all the girls that worked in the old Salon with me used this one particular High-lift


by Matrix called UL-PA . Ultra Lift Pearl Ash. . . . and it was sold out at both of the supply houses I tried to get it at. . . which now shows me that an awful lot of Colorists must use it. I did not notice a booster with Matrix, but again - - the color was so perfect I couldn’t think of why I would need one. . . . but will carry that as well. So watch for that in the near future. I truly cannot see why any of the boosters can’t be interchanged with any brand. I have not tested that theory, but will. . . .coming up. You know science formulas' and theories that are used with “hair color are plain and simple and just not that complicated so there is pretty much no reason it shouldn’t work.         
In addition to high-lifts and lighteners, with losing the Renbow toners ( which I have never found anything even remotely close) I plan to put together a base line of opaque toners course and then demonstrate to you how to change the colors of the toners in order to reach soft pastels. It really is not that hard. Just comes with experience….which luckily YOU don’t need. . . because I have it - - - for you!
Matrix brought back its line of 4 opaque toners for blond’s I used to use and love so that is a great start.. I will also demonstrate the fairly simple technique of making an apricot-rose toner ‘from’ these toners as a base provided there is some interest for them. Soft Silver, Soft Raspberry, Ice Blue – All coming up in the future days and weeks of the NEW HIGHLIFT series.

NEW ADDITION TO THIS POST :
Please check out the store, I have completed all the lines of testing highlifts from some 20 lines of hair color.
The absolute 1st and best blonds without the use of bleach goes to the company FRAMESI, they actually blew both Schwartzkopf and the rest of them out of the water....just read the post on the page

True Words Come From The Trenches

 I love when I receive enthusiastic - educational emails from my Readers, especially ones that do their homework

Thanks,  Lizzy

Hi I would like to order colorissmo 100A, white genie and rencolor toner - moonlight. 

You offer the best highlift color!!!!! Thank you!!!!

When I had a consultation with you in the fall this is what you reccommended for me to use. I had a little scare and was hesitant to try again. Since then I have used redken 10 (at the salon - did not lift at all) with highlights, schwatzkoph 12-1 with color charm white lady toner ( kinda brassy) ( Is what I had at home and appplied to roots only), and matrix high lift with highlights as well(at salon- this was the best of the three). None of these base colors could compare to the great icey tone I achieved from this mixture. You know your stuff.

With Regards,
Lizzy C. 

                                                    

High Lift Blonde vs. Bleach--The Never-Ending Battle . . . Ends

If

you continue to have difficulties deciding

between high-lift blond tint and bleach

here's a copy of a typical email I receive when this color goes out. . . .

On Sun, Jan 18, 2009 at 8:58 AM, wrote:

Hi! I tried 100A w/ white genie and I'M IN LOVE!! I can't begin to thank you for introducing me to this combination. I got the desired lift without any of the damage or breakage!! Plus the compliments are pouring in. I have random people stop me in the street and ask me how I get my hair so pretty. It's incredible! I would definitely like to order more... I can't wait!!

My Order:

Renbow 100A x 2

White Genie x 2

I live in Miami, FL. Zip:33014

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!!! (sorry for all the gushing, I just can't contain myself... :D )

xxxxxxxx H.