March 19, 2012

What Is the Difference Between High-lift Blond & Blonde Hair Color?

I am answering Group Member's Hair Questions This Month....this is a great question Regarding Terminology in Blonding..


 Hi KC,
I am a little confused about whether to use the highlift blonde colors vs 'regular' blondes, I am scared to use high lift in case I get too blonde (don't want the platinum look!). I have level 6 mousy blonde naturally, my colorist has been doing a blonde base color on the roots (no idea what color) every 6-8 weeks, plus foil highlights (partial) usually every other visit.  However, I'm not happy with the color or service, the color on the length is probably level 9-10, bit yellowy and the roots seem to get a little brassy/orangey a couple weeks after I get it done, and I want to start doing it myself to save money and time on the salon visits.  I travel a lot on business and so many times have to cancel appts, then it's hard to get in when I want to at short notice, they always make me wait and the whole appt. including drive time can take 4hrs! What I would like to achieve is level 9-10 beige blonde. Seems like I should choose an X factor color, maybe a level 10? With a toner? But maybe a high-lift level 12 instead? And any thing I choose should just go on the roots until the rest of the existing color grows out? It's so confusing!
Hair is long, below shoulder length very fine, good condition.
Thanks for any advice!
L.

 L.,
 I bet you would be surprised by how many people ask this question. !! It sounds like a headache trying to get your hair done correctly, doing it yourself would be the perfect answer for you. As with any talent or job....how do you become confident in what you are doing?  You educate yourself on the subject. 
 While you are traveling you have plenty of time to read...so begin reading the Blog from the beginning.... skim the Posts and read the ones that pertain to what you want to learn (hair color). You can learn to be very confident choosing and applying your own hair-color I promise you. It sounds like you are trying to learn it all in a day or two..... THAT is when it becomes confusing. We have hundreds of excellent Crib Colorists in our Group, you can be one too.
 Now, to answer your question...............

People let the "high-lift" term freak them out sometimes and honestly it is just a marketing 'term' is all.  What happened was: there were originally Levels 1 thru 10 only and if you look at any swatch charts you can tell that.

~~~~~~~~~~~~ HAIR COLOR SWATCH CHART(above)~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 One of the hair color company's (WELLA) developed 2 more levels LIGHTER.....than the 'Level 10'. So, here they were, they came up with this UNIVERSAL HAIR COLOR LEVEL CHART.... they had even got many of the other lines to go along with this idea....and BAM! ... 2 new lighter colors were introduced. What those 2 colors are.... in reality are a  Level 11 and a  Level 12, and that is all. That is exactly what you were talking about "L." So GOOD JOB, my dear!
There is no 'super booster' in those colors, there is no 'secret high-lift juice' in the tube......it is just the next color lighter on a chart that originally was Level 1 thru 10. So, what happened next?  
 In comes the big marketing Team. Wella asks them how to 'market' the 2 new lighter colors they have developed when in reality they have had a Swatch chart with 10 levels for the past 30 years. In my opinion... the Marketing people decided to name it "highlift blond"..... and they decided not to call it what it was....... a Level 11 & level 12. Which is what happens when you ask a layman to do what is a Stylist/Colorists job.
What all this means?
There really is no such thing as a "high-lift" blond. As you will notice in the dictionary that word doesn't even exist.  It really is just a Level 11 or Level 12 color...most " highlift blonde's" you see in the hundreds of lines are just called Level 12. Then most will assign from 3 to 6 tonal qualities to each tube. You will see 12.10A (ash) or 12.00N (neutral) or what I suggest for you: 12.20: super high lift violet blonde....oh my Lord, I never even 
noticed it said that. There that shows you how silly some of these companies can be. Remember these lines are trying to
This is a very long answer to your short question about the term "highlift". Does that make sense to you? I hope so.
So, do not worry AT ALL about using the Level 12 colors, because there is no "super duper light lifter" in those colors I promise you. Its just a marketing ploy aimed at Colorists/Stylists. 

Remember I have let all you Crib Colorists into the world of Professional hair color - something that was unavailable to your brain and hands a few years ago. I mean I call it a high-lift because the hair color companies have crammed that term down my throat....I really should just say Level 12. So, please do not worry about using these colors.

Now for the specific answer to your questions:
  • you cannot go platinum from a high-lift - Level 12 blond...when you are a Level 6 - so please do not worry about that being a problem. It just won't happen. Sounds like she was using a high-lift blond on you and not leaving it on long enough or it was an inferior brand (or one of multiple other reasons).
  •  sounds like you have not read much of my Blog....once you understand Color Theory, then you will understand which color you need to use to cancel the orange-y yellow-y . We call those yucky colors: DURP (Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment). So your DURP is orange-y yellow-y. You then look at the color wheel for your answers to the proper color to use, with what you have on your head. Using the opposite color from the color you are fighting - is how one can cancel the obnoxious tones in hair coloring. You see where the yellow-orange-y is.....??? in order to cancel those colors out?? Follow a line across the wheel....you  must use a Blond color with a violet-blue BASE.

 I hope this helps you . . . there are plenty of posts on Hair Color Theory.....and on going Blond on the front Guide to Posts....right hand side.

Thank You...

12 comments on "What Is the Difference Between High-lift Blond & Blonde Hair Color?"
  1. I HAVE QUESTION I HOPE YOU CAN HELP ME WITH.
    MY STYLIST BLEACHES MY HAIR WITH WELL BLONDOR CREME BLEACH 30 VOLUME DEVELOPER ON MY ROOTS AND TONES WITH PROVERA TONER WHICH IS A PEARL AND A VIOLET TONER, OR SOMETIMES MY STYLISTS USES GOLDWELL 10P/10V, BUT I LIKE MY HAIR A WHITE PLATINUM AND IT IS A PLATINUM BUT IT STILL HAS A PALE YELLOW TONE TO IT IN THE SHAFT AREA DOWN WHICH I HATE IT IS SO UGLY I WANT IT OUT BUT MY STYLIST TRIED TO GET IT OUT, BUT IS AFRAID TO PUT BLEACH ON IT ANYMORE BECAUSE HE FEARS IT WILL BREAK MY HAIR EVEN THOUGH I HAVE STRONG HAIR.
    HE ALSO USES A HIGH LIFT ON IT TOO BUT HIGH LIFT AND TONERS JUST WASH OUT THEN IT IS BACK TO UNGLY YELLOW AGAIN.
    HE SEEMS TO LIFT IT ENOUGH TO THE PALE YELLOW STAGE SO TONER SHOULD TAKE CARE OF IT BUT IT DON'T, SO MAYBE HE NEEDS TO LIFT IT MORE TO A WHITE STAGE?
    SO ANY TIPS ON WHAT TO DO?

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  2. What in the world?
    There should be NO highlift AND bleach on the same hair, N E V E R>>> E V E R! .
    That is too much on the hair.
    If you are going for blonde w/ NO yellow like the rest of the people on planet earth... do what a lot people do..........buy the Oil Bleach Kit in the store that COMES WITH Purple Developer in 20 Volume which is all you ever need

    (except for virgin Asian hair - big exception)

    take it to your stylist - and have them apply it to the lengths first - - - the roots last you never ever in a zillion years would apply highlift and then bleach that is pure insanity

    you only apply 1 application of oil bleach to the lengths and then apply another level of oil bleach to the length s ( if darker than a Level 8) and the last 30 minutes you would apply it to the roots or base.

    If there are any spots or bands of yellow you mix a batch of oil bleach up and sometimes you just work it into the hair in those unique spots with gloved hands-- only applying to yellowed areas ..process 10-30 minutes till hair look like FROZEN butter
    never white
    - white is too light
    yellow is too short

    READ the Blog in the proper areas read all of these posts .... ALL !

    http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/search?q=blond

    GL

    KC

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  3. Thank you for All the Wonderful Information and taking the Time it takes to make this blog!

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  4. I really appreciate when people tell me that, you made my day ! KC

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  5. Maybe you will be able to help me! My hair are dyed look like 7:30 on your chart... maybe more tangerine side.... i would like to go tangerine blond.... if i use high lift blond is there a chance that i get that color?

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  6. You would need to use a Tangerine High-Lift...Schwarzkopf IGORA ROYAL has one in their Pearlessence line, which is in our store....here is the link and it is Color # 11-74 Tangerine Highlift

    http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/products/pearlessence-pastel-hair-color-by-schwartzkopf

    Then to keep it looking bright and beautiful you should get either Boost or Burst in Tangerine or BOTH of them. Those type of colors fade quickly, so they do need refreshing frequently.

    G.L.
    Remember if you email photos of your hair color from our store's color & receive a FREE SHIPPING COUPON and Tint Brush with next order, this goes for everyone !

    Email: Killerstrands.Info@gmail.com, just include date & colors or products used.

    KC

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  7. Hi KC i am a natural level 2 i have very dark brown hair and I love blonde i have been bleaching my hair with quick blue bleach loreal and toning with a blue pale ash and i recently colored my roots level 8 natural blonde over the bleached hair. Im tired of bleaching its so damaging. what is the best way to lighten my hair without bleach? Please help my hair from breaking.

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  8. I learned to not always listen to your mother, lol.. She told me I should dye my hair light golden brown so I did. BIG MISTAKE! It came out DARK and my roots were real brassy. Then a hairdresser told me to dye it a light ash blonde. Another mistake. Now I have more along the lines of orange roots. So I got a box of L'Oreal 11.21 ultra pearl blonde. Questions: 1. Will that get rid of the orange roots? 2. Should I do my roots first and if so about how long should wait to put the color on the rest of my hair or should I do the opposite? I would really appreciate your help.

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    Replies
    1. I'm sorry but NEVER EVER use BOX hair color,( I call it : "Crap-IN-A-BOX")........ you will end up with nothing but damaged destroyed improperly colored hair. All Celebrity Hair ADS are bullshit, I use to work on TV commercials and am embarrassed to even admit that.
      There are ways to color your own hair very inexpensively , but you must do some reading if you are not willing to do the reading I am so sorry but I just cannot help.
      Read this Blog, everything you need to learn how to do it properly is here.
      Hope This Helps
      Blue Skies
      KC

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    2. KC to say one will get nothing but damaged hair with box dyes is bs. I have always used box dyes, and 8\10 times I've had the desired effect. The sad truth is, if people cant buy decent box dyes and follow the guidelines, using salon quality dyes could potentially be dangerous in the wrong hands. Box dyes are good depending on what your doing and the brand. Btw my hair is extremely healthy considering all the boxcrap on it.

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  9. I have NEVER said 100% of the people who purchase box kits will have bad results.EVER. I have always said 70-80% will have trashed hair. You are so lucky, congrats. But I would bet $20.00 in 10-15 years you will be emailing me asking me what you can "now" try as the boxed kit is not longer working. You are NOT on my end. You do not see and respond to thousands of emails from everyone out there. I only give advice according to what emails and tearful phone calls I receive.

    I"m here to help. In 10 years you are the very first person to "stick-up-for" boxed hair color, so that in and of itself says a lot.

    I read a monthly magazine about formulating cosmetic products, this month had a cover photo and article....... I nearly felt off my chair by. It was a beautiful photo of a model with rainbow colored hair with glitter ribbons and the Title was :
    FOR THE FIRST TIME IN HISTORY PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR HAS SURPASSED 'BOXED HAIR COLOR' IN MONEY 'SPENT BY CONSUMERS' ! !

    You obviously have not read the Blog (sounds like you don't have to) its a 10 year history and education guide on how to use professional hair color - to its covered my dear, and people can always write or call to ask me a question.

    I would never put something out there without education to go with it!

    KC

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  10. Thank you KC! Not only is this article super helpful at clearing up the silly highlift terminology you also give amazing advice in the comments :) I'm going to try to use a 12.30 violet based blond "highlift" with a 32 developer to get out remaining orange/gold in a level 6/7 hair that's ashen gold. Wish me luck!! Haha

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