December 27, 2012

Bleaching 'Platinum' Secret - Its All In The 'Numbers'

 In Order To Achieve This Beautiful Shade of Pink or Powder Blue or Violet or any of the beautiful pastels there are in the world of hair coloring Crazy Colors there is one gigantic secret that I have not released.

 And while there are still many secrets I possess this one seems so very 'LOGICAL' to me
 I am surprised many of you have not figured it out.  

While perusing the Internet lately I came across a Video tutorial of "how to use our Oil Bleach Kit". You know ..... one of those that show you from the minute you get the package.... to applying it on the hair. 
Atrocious...............not her and not her attempt 
the Outcome - I mean.............. 
my God I would hope some of you would not attribute that result to my Beloved  OIL BLEACH KIT

This is a very short & Sweet Tutorial to help you prevent that vivid recollection

You remove old hair color and then you get to bleaching.
You only bleach the lengths FIRST...........
and you bleach them to VERY - VERY - VERY  LIGHT , no one will be... 1 bleaching .
Plus, about only 10% of you will be 2 complete bleachings. 
2 Bleaching's means you apply the product to the lengths of the hair completely -- let it process for 65 minutes, rinse, apply INTENSIVE,  rinse and dry. 
Then apply the 3rd time to the Base ( roots)

Then the majority of you are 3-4-5 complete bleachings with the last one being the base.
Remember, the base comes up very quickly with the heat of the body -- warming up -- the oil bleach -- which makes for fast lifting.

Level 1-2-3 will be 4-5-6 bleachings even
So many of you at a Level 7 will be 3-4 bleaching's. If you have coarse hair, or virgin hair you will be 4-5 bleaching's. Going platinum is why and where (no joke) the term "HIGH MAINTENANCE", came from.

MULTIPLE BLEACHINGS is the trick to achieving Platinum.
The trick is applying INTENSIVE when finished and knowing when to stop !
 While that video tutorial was cute and flattering the outcome was horrifying and I do not want anyone to think that is how it comes out, because it does NOT!

When applied the correct amount of times, and finished off with INTENSIVE -- I REPEAT -- the result is the above photo and every single platinum hair photo in this Blog!

Happy New Year


December 22, 2012

The Only Hair Color Remover ANYONE Ever Needs

Rarely Does a Product Work As Well As It Claims

"VANISH" Works Even Better

To understand how to get old miserable hair color out of your hair, let me tell you a little story of how hair color actually it changes the color of the strands and how it remains changed into another color other than its own ! ! Then you will be able to understand how to remove hair color.
You must understand how hair color goes into the hair in order to understand how it comes OUT.
When you apply hair color to the hair (that is ANY hair color that comes with developer) it goes INTO the hair strand (it doesn't sit on top of it).  It doesn't matter if it is called demi-permanent, semi-permanent, or whatever the hair color companies have made up. Hair color is a chemical process and the one and only way it works is when you put the hair color in the bowl and THEN add the developer..... and... POOF... the magic happens!!  The mixture of those 2 chemicals creates this process that shrinks the hair color molecules very miniscule . . . so small that they can get inside the shaft of the hair and turn that hair strand a different color. THEN...the molecules enlarge so that they are STUCK inside all the hair strands. So those color molecules are bigger and another color now.

Many of you get frustrated with your hair color or decide to do something different to your body or looks -- to shake things up -  so you drive down to Target or the grocery store -- buy a box-o-haircolor'-- and apply. Through this Blog I am convinced it happens umpteen times each and every day, but 'why' is the question!?!?

I am trying to figure out why people do this..... go to a drugstore  to get hair color is like driving to the Beauty Salon to buy steaks to cook for dinner. You wouldn't do that, because the Salon doesn't cater to things 'food' related does it? They probably wouldn't know what to do with the meat .... how to keep it fresh .... how to package it....just everything. So that, is truly the same thing as driving to the Supermarket and picking out a hair color to apply. Who at the supermarket could answer questions about hair color? The Butcher? The Pharmacist?  You don't know if it is a bogus product or not, you can't even ask anyone for help. If you asked a manager at a grocery store for help with either choosing your hair color or how to apply it, he truly would look at you as though you were crazy - - - wouldn't he/she??  Please, there isn't a person alive...that doesn't cherish their hair - - . If that is truly the case then why start the process by purchasing the product somewhere they know nothing about it ??? The whole idea is as puzzling to me as it should be to YOU !
Your hair is important to you.
Don't disrespect it by purchasing the hair color you are going to use to change its color at the supermarket! PLEASE!

Now, let's just say you have done this. You have driven to the wrong store to purchase the wrong hair color, and you have applied it to that hair you love so much and it has become a God-awful hair color. . . .
What would you do?
Where would you go? 
How would you fix it ?
I hope you would head the Killerstrands Blog for help of 3 methods of yucky hair color removal.

The 3 standard items I believe remove hair color all in varying strengths are:
  1. Shampoo 'with' sulfates (most gentle method)
  2. Malibu2000 Packets - Color Correction (med. strength)
  3. VANISH Treatments - (strongest - can do multiple applications)
I want to explain how VANISH works and why. The reason I want to do this is because there is not one other product like it on Planet Earth, it uses NO peroxide/developer, NO bleach, no ammonia.
You have read how hair color goes into the hair strands, now you must picture how it comes out with VANISH.

Remember how the hair color molecules shrink really small which makes them tiny enough to go INSIDE the strands of hair ? ?

When you mix Bottle #1 ... with Bottle #2 from the Vanish box into a bowl....the liquid looks exactly like water..... water with a funny smell. But it is now ready to apply with the sponge. Once you apply the liquid  - it begins working by REVERSING those molecules that went "IN" the hair strands by SHRINKING them again which allows those color molecules to COME OUT OF THE HAIR STRANDS ! ! ! 
That is why Vanish is the supreme product, no damage, no destruction of the hair strands AT ALL.

There is no better way to remove that color you no longer want.
I hope that story explains it a little bit (and remember if you want).

A link to see our color removing products

happy holidays


December 15, 2012

21 Cosses - Help Them Heal

I have started a little tiny PINTEREST Board 
with 21 Crosses for the 21 people

You may add a teddy bear or a cross for those poor children and educators. Its only there because I would feel ridiculous not saying anything about this tragedy and going on with Hair talk as if it never happened. They deserve to be remembered by as many people as will.
 I'm only one, maybe you can be too.


December 12, 2012

How To Achieve a Level 8 Hair Color, the Most Difficult Of All Colors

 Having had a great question from one of our group members.......I have decided to answer it out here on the Blog.  I just knew the question/answer would help a lot of people everywhere, so I am going to attempt to answer it with a crystal clear answer.  Please continue to ask questions in the group until you understand it clearly. Remember no question. . . is a bad keep them coming.

 My question is with developers. I understand that for each level of lift equals the number volume to use. Ex: 2 levels = 20 volume.  I'm trying to get an existing level 6/7 to an 8/9. So to me, it's 3 levels of lift ( 6,7,8). I was using a 8N and 30 volume. I was getting a 7/8g it looked like to me. Was it coming out really brassy because I was over processing and using too high of a developer?  I should of used an ash because of the underlying tones, but I want a gold. Should I use 8.01 or 8.1 and 20 volume instead?
  Hi S___. ,
Lets break your excellent question down.
First off I don't know who told you that ratio on developers, but it is completely wrong.
This is the correct ratio for them
10 Volume has '1/2'-1 Lift
20 Volume is  1 Level of Lift
30 Volume is 2 to 3 Levels of Lift
40 Volume is 3 to 4 Levels of Lift

This particular Level "8" is the area that so many of you have problems with, its hard to make the change like you are trying to.
I know it seems logical to use the hair color 'you want' to get the color you want.......BUT, that is the opposite of how hair color works. 

First, do you have Virgin hair? If you do, you would have 1 set of rules.
If you have previously colored hair you would have completely other rules.We have talked about this exact topic many times before .....    But, anyway....

I guess it must seem ridiculous but the answers to the Killer 14 questions gets you the solution you want. You must take into account all the factors that are in the 14 questions in order to achieve your desired color. If you have VIRGIN color, then you only need 4 -5 of them!
But, I would  be sure on your hair by strand testing the color before hand.

When you are choosing your hair color formula, you must take into account the color that are in the hair strands themselves. Hair Color is not solid when it goes on, it is transparent, like a nylon - - think of all the strands of your hair as legs - and your legs are the color you were born with - for you a Level 6.5. For this example you are saying your VIRGIN color is Level 6.5.
You say that you "want gold" tried gold and it showed you just what I am trying to added Gold to hair that already had tons of gold in it. Everyone is different - therefore everyone has a different amount off gold and brass and orange and that is why there isn't 1 small book with how -to-color hair that everyone can use........There just are too many variables.... that very few people truly understand.   But as the hair lightens - which is "LIFT" Here is the chart of how the hair lightens

The hair contains ALL THE WARMTH- - ALL the Gold -- ALL the BLORANGE - - ALL the orange and all the red in the world already, so if it has the warmth, there is no need to add anymore. This one fact is why 1/2 the women at Target have brassy hair. This is why box color kits don't work......because they have not put the proper formula in the box, they add warmth to those formulas, in the bottle.

There is no need to add more warmth.....see the level of hair on the left...........see the DURP : Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment  that appears as you "lift" (or lighten) the original hair color .... so you can see all the warmth in the hair appear as you lighten it...It differs from ethnicity's as well. Hispanic/Asian/Italians. So what I am saying is they developed the colors to work on white hair, which is why you must add a couple different colors to get the perfect result.

Those tones you want are in the hair already...that is why I say the hair color is transparent

 So, for the rest of your questions.............yes, you could use one of 3 formula's...........try to get used to the idea that you do not pick your formula from the hair color swatches..........try picking it from your study of hair color formulating.

I know its was confusing for me and every other person....I keep trying different methods of explaining it, because every one's brain works a different way.  In 15 years in the Salon I never once used a color from the "G" category (so GOLD !) - even at the beginning when I was fresh out of 2 years at Vidal Sassoon....and without all the heads of hair of experience under my belt.....I would strand test all the time.....I started to realize in that first year that they must have put that category in the charts to appeal to every one's 'sense of color'. Sense is what appeals to you as you look at it, not what you should use because that is how the Universal hair color system works.

So to get you your formula and hope just 1 more person now is closer to understanding how the Universal Level System, works.'
Use Wella Koleston Perfect as it has nice medium blonde's
You may use anyone of these 3 formula's (if you have virgin hair,only).
The rules change when you have hair color on the hair - remember have to remove the old hair color - and re-arrange the formula....

Now, if you really want to try this, I would highly recommend joining the new FACEBOOK GROUP ..I can't just give one formula as there are many things to consider, ESPECIALLY each person's DURP.

please join the new FACEBOOK group and I will help you determine if this color will work on you --
Remember my saying .....not every person can be any color.!
But if YOU can be A LEVEL 8, I will tell you.
Remember ...........Strand Test .............Strand Test..........Strand Test !

I hope that helps and thanks for your Question . . .keep them coming. . . .
Yes, she is correct 10 volume leaves a line of demarcation as does any Volume but 0!