June 30, 2014

High-Lift Blonde Versus Bleach . . . Which Is Healthier For The Hair

............. is one of the #1 asked question of going Blonde. The decision for each of your hair should be simple. If there is brass of any sort after using Level 12 with double 40 Volume. Then you should use Cream lightener, If its beautiful after Level 10,11 or 12. Then that should be your choice

Almost always you get 2 different colors from the 2 procedures on the same hair....one person doesn't like the color she gets from the high-lift, but is very concerned about the health of her hair.
Here's what I have experienced:
Certain Level 7''s can achieve a gorgeous blonde with Level 11 or 12 or Level 12 with a booster...
Certain Level 7's cannot - it still has brass in it so you end up constantly applying Toners and purple shampoos / conditioners - - the more you do shit like that - it DOES take its toll on your hair.
The goal is to achieve the lightest blonde so you don't have to use Toners or anything else so that its a color that is beautiful and you can live with it.
If you can achieve that with a Level 12 & double 40V............then that should always be your first choice.

On the same subject, if you use bleach, it should be cream bleach - NEVER POWDER....
and Gleam, Intensive should be used & THRIVEN should always be left in overnight. ...after the application of either, if you take the time to do it right, then you will not have damage.

Aveda makes one of the worst colors and lighteners on planet earth, so I would stay away from that line completely ever again. Never use powder lightener. That's what cream lightener is made for, why don't people use it more???
Its more expensive.
but as a Crib colorist you are only doing your own hair so it shouldn't be that bad
The most important part of blonding are the other steps you do:
If you do this every time with 1 -2 Thriven treatments in between you should have
June 19, 2014

Hair Color & How the Application Process is Accomplished Properly

1.) Haircoloring should be applied methodically. Quarter the hair: part the center-front to center-back and ear to ear. then apply color along these lines first.Apply the color the same way every time, you will begin to get the rhythym and find yourself covering every inch and completing faster and faster. 
Then take thin sections as you go up the quarter and I promisae you it is faster ( and I know it doesn't seem so) trust me. The color will go on more evenly.
2.) Color will be applied to any areas that require the longest timing ....and what would that be? the grayest of the gray when covering gray, the darkest area when lightening.

3.) A good application saturates the hair thoroughly, but does not smother it. Oxidation color needs exposure to O-X-Y-G-E-N and doesn't get it if you have 2 tons of hair color on each section ! Dont be stingy either -- wet the hairthoroughly, paint it thinly in color -- but, don't cake it on.

4.) Don't pack the hair together for processing either. Loosen the hair, seperate the strands, so that air can get to it. 

5.) When your application is complete, check it. Always check it ...even if you think it was perfect. you can take a 1 inch piece of hair with color all over it, grab your Tail Comb get in front of a mirror with bright lighting and scrspe the color OFF of that once inch strand....hold the hair around your GLOVED finger....wiping and scraping the color OFF to look and see if it is correct. It does take time and experience but if you have left it to the longest processing time, it is almost always a winner.

Processing Time
Unless it says it on the directions... the timing is begun when you are finished with applying the color.. Lay down your tint brush and ALWAYS pick-up a timer - immediately ! - or your phone. If you begin the timing from when completed my rule is 40-45 minutes. If its highlift Blonde  it should be 1 hour. 
Bleach is on a case by case basis.

I happen to believe that the short processing time on professional color is that way to appeal to busy Colorists, who are in a Salon and have to jam in 20 clients a day. They want that color to work fast. I tested it back when I was in the Salon....and found with every brand the color turned out so much better when we left it on 45- to 75 minutes. If you have a specific processing question you can join our Group or ask me a question in the comments section -below- although that is the last place I get to... after making my rounds.

There are strict rules that State Boards of Cosmetology set out to uphold, are odd & weird, but I suppose I see some justice in them....when just starting out. As a home hair Colorist I would like to emphasize that it will be in your best interest to follow some of these rules .

 What you are supposed to do is determine where in the 4 quarters of the head you should 'begin the application of color". 
Remember how I have explained: dividing the hair into quarters... in order to apply the color.... in an organized fashion?? Like you see in these illustrations:

If you use this set-up, I promise you will become a Crib Colorist much easier.

Lets make it easier, because we all know applying color to yourself is not the easiest thing in the world .

These are pretty self explanatory, for the most part. Apply the formula to the new growth and avoid overlapping ... but you will always  want to grab your comb:
  • apply a few squirts of Gleam to your hair and comb it through with a wide tooth comb
  • outline the section first, that you begin with, with the hair color you are using
  • the section you start with should be the section with the most gray in it....start ON the gray on the scalp edge first - as well. Having the hair color on the 'gray hair' the longest will  help in coverage, by being on the hair longer..
  • I cannot give hard fast rules about "pulling through". Pulling through is what you will do after you have gone around and tinted the base ( new growth), if you are tinting hair Level 7 or darker  (depending on the health)...almost all of you will be pulling through the extra tint you have in the bowl to refresh the color on your lengths. To be honest you kind of carefully apply it to the lengths QUICKLY  and carefully spread it around with a tint brush and comb it through  the strands with an application comb so the color will go all the way through.
  • Now you blondes, you don't have much to gain by pulling through, so do not just do it because you've read about the term or heard it from a girlfriend. Blondes, remember, are removing hair color in order to make the hair blonde. So, if you were to repeat it , you would do nothing but  damage and deplete the strength of your hair and ends. Many times I would use a tint brush and brush on THRIVEN or INTENSIVE while the base was processing! Then.....do the following:
  • If your ends are overporous you really need a new formula put on the ends, & this is where a really great Semi Permanent comes in and saves the day like a Prince!

It is one of the rules that were designed by the State Board of California, that I felt were more silly than anything, once I became a Colorist. These State Board tests have Roller Sets and finger waving in them which are such outdated techniques it was always hard to pay attention to anything they taught. The V.Sassoon Academy gave ZERO respect to those tests, so I guess that just transferred over to me.

June 17, 2014

A Brand New Design, For A Very Old Blog - How Refreshing !

Welcome to the new 

                            beautiful world of Hair,

              through my eye's
                    my brand new beautiful
                                           re-designed Blog

Thank You Lindsey...............for all the help

June 11, 2014

Getting Comfortable with 'Developer' While Coloring your Hair

Wow, I just did a small Search on hair and hair chemistry and cannot believe the amount of other sites there are out there now. I'm surprised how many of you ask me to continue to write....and encourage me to "keep going" admittedly they are not like KIller Strands but there are other sources, for the longest time, I was it. You don't abandon me and I won't abandon YOU !!! Be very very careful who you listen to, I saw 2 companies who write "supposed Blogs" that are tied to poor quality products, its kind of funny....really.  You will figure it out.....bad products word-of-mouth spreads quickly.

You have to learn to love Developer (peroxide) and not be afraid of it, and please please don't be so headstrong about which developer you ''ONLY'' want to use.  There just needs to be more education before you decide that you want this certain Volume, yet can't explain why. If you can explain 'why' and it follows the rules of hair coloring.....then fine use it. But please, many of you are very set on the Volume of Developer you want without any education.....or the knowledge of why that is your choice -  it needs to be really thought about for a better result. Remember.....I am on YOUR SIDE here !  So many of you are just Hell bent on not using anything higher than 20 Volume ( I have at least 8 of you with this same issue right now, so please don't think its "YOU".....what it is....is so funny that I have so many of you at the same time with the same misguided direction about Developer. All of you want to be a beautiful Blond, BUT won't use anything higher than 20 Volume.....a couple of you splurged and tried 30 Volume which......... still......... DID  NOT   WORK!

                                   Hydrogen peroxide (developer) H2O2 is 
                    responsible for oxidation (NH3 or ammonia + H2O2 = oxidation)

It makes the color permanent and MUST be present for the color to lift and develop, and it makes the color oxidize. First, it reduces (or lifts) the natural pigments (melanin) to reach the desired Target Level.  H2O2 is actually (water) with an extra molecule of O - oxygen .... something I would tell my clients all the time, to calm them when talking about developers. If its only 1 molecule away from water, really............could it be that bad? Oxygen is what creates the lift and development of color in the hair. Oxygen ! Nothing bad like so many of you think ;) .

             The higher the percentage of oxygen in peroxide 
                      the more lift you can achieve... "o-x-y-g-e-n" !

Most Level System colors operate with a range of developers from 5-40 Volume- although lately you can pretty much purchase any # Volume of developer. 
  • 5 to 13 Volume is for DEPOSIT ONLY
  • 20 Volume for the same level or one Level of Lift
  • 30 Volume for 2-3 Level s of Lift &
  • 40 Volume for 3-4 Levels of Lift  !
Although Volumes vary among the different product lines, you will notice some of the smarter lines adding moisturizers/conditioners/vitamins....etc. to their formulations of Developer to help condition the hair the one and only time the hair strand is open and able to be helped from the inside ....OUT!

As oxidation occurs, lift begins, which is the removal of the natural pigment (melanin) in the hair. Deposit also begins (at the same time ---> impressive don't you think)....Deposit is a process in which the intermediary color molecules begin joining or locking together to form a NEW color pigment combinations in the hair. With the aid of the H2O2 these molecules attract one another and make such large combinations that they become too large to exit the hair strand/shaft and are actually  are trapped inside. The lift and the deposit occur simultaneously!

Even Stylists think it is the H2O2 that causes the cuticle to open. The H2O2 acts as a buffer for the ammonia in color.  Its pH is actually 2.5 to 4.5. Only when its released through oxidation....does it begin to eliminate pigment.

The Volume of the Developer, along with the amount of ammonia in the color is what determines the lifting action. When a Color product is mixed with Developer, the H2O2 achieves a Working Volume (WV). WV is the actual volume of the diluted formula. Most Color Lines use equal parts to formulate.

                                              For example:
                                                2- oz. Color
                                             + 2- oz H2O2

So if using 20 Volume H2O2, this formula would have a working volume of 10Volume. As the Volume of the developer increases, so does the WV. 

I have tried over and over to make this one sentence crystal Clear, but I have failed. Please remember this, because nothing is more true about Developer than this statement:

The Volume of a Developer does not determine how strong it is, but merely how long it will lift. Stabilized H2O2 is CONTROLLED lifting power: the higher the Volume , the more the 'lift'. (what does "lift' mean? removing, subtracting or lightening color from the hair.

Peroxide + ammonia = Lift & Development of Color

During coloring the H2O2 is converted to water and oxygen
  • water drives the pigment into the hair
  • oxygen develops pigments 
become friends with the developer needed to achieve the color you desire, especially you Blondes !
June 6, 2014

Extensions - Headach-extensions

My feelings on extensions... and why the bad news.

A lot of people like extensions, I even found out one of the staffers here where them, and she was afraid to tell me. The only reason I have the views I do. . . is because I feel the big giant companies and all their big money spent on advertising is leading the general public down the wrong road for the health of their hair. 

I mean I am beginning to see extension ads in everyday magazines and she told me she got hers at sally's...Sally's really? Oh dear Lord. The problem with extensions can be defined in 1-2 sentences...
There is really no safe way to put them in a head of hair. The people that want them, almost always have thin hair. Therefore, thin hair = weak hair. Look at what you are trying to do to already weak and fragile hair, you are adding what is like a big giant dumbbell to your present weak strands

How are extensions "ATTACHED" let us count the ways:
  • glue
  • adhesive
  • tape 
  • Cold Fusion Basically identical to Warm Fusion but the  keratin bond is not warmed, but rather ultrasonic waves melt the Keratin to form the bond during installation
  • Warm Fusion, bonds are removed with a special solvent, and tool.
  • Beads, 
  • clips
  • and the list goes on endlessly.............and you know why? 
 Because they have not found a way, nor will they ever find a way that will be safe for the hair on your head,1/2 the actresses in Hollywood have lost half their hair because they got in on the whole extension wave about 15 years ago when they were a hidden wonder to most people.They were tens of thousands of dollars back then !  Now they have millions of women in India, the middle East, Africa everywhere there are groups of humans with strong hair, making a good living on selling their hair. Most all of the hair that you will wear now comes from the country of India.

  Look at all that hair where the hair Bulb will be destroyed & hair won't grow again !

But I want you to think about what is happening. ....no matter how you try to attach the hair to your current strands it is pulling on your roots. What happens is........ they pull on the lengths .........which pulls on the roots  which pulls out the bulb .....and a hair bulb is where new hairs grow ..........which is how you continue to HAVE hair continuously growing. 

Remember hair is terminal it sprouts out of the root.....begins to grow stays on your head anywhere from 2 to 6 years. It then dies and sheds. That one Bulb stays dormant for 2-4 weeks as it gets ready to grow again.....Now this is where Extensions get in the way of your entire head of hair....the bulb gets damaged by the fake hair pulling on those bulbs - while alive - then when they go to sprout again they can't because the damaged bulb is just that --> TOO DAMAGED....... for that one hair to grow again. The major problem is that is happening on ALL OF THE HAIR

The reason they keep changing the methods of attaching the extensions is because the current method 'gets a bad name' so they come up with another one. Trying to trick you....

Why would ANY manner of attaching the extensions to your hair be OK, when... the problem is the WEIGHT OF THE HAIR pulling on your real strands and the hair bulb, it has NOTHING to do w/ the manner of attaching the extensions !

Don't fall for it.  If you really understand how hair grows on your head, it will make sense as to why no method will ever NOT PULL on your REAL hair strands and the LAST THING YOU WANT IS FOR YOUR REAL HAIR STRANDS -- NOT TO GROW !
June 3, 2014

Semi-Permanent Hair Color Has A New Name & I Am Not Happy About It

Semi Permanent Hair Color is the color that was called Glosses and Cellophane's in the
 70's - 80's & part of the 90's then that same color that was used for many different color correction processes, slowly began to disappear. It almost completely disappeared except for a couple of us LOAD-MOUTH Colorists, that won't let it disappear....keep shouting and pouting about the fact that we need it BADLY There are just some Colorists including me who realize how very important the category is !

Slowly the public is going to begin to use semi-permanents and see how to use them to play with and see how they can be used............
 like using different colors of eyeshadow................................to go with an outfit
...................................................or a season.
 They go in and come out without any damage  to the hair because of the way they are put into the hair strands, the color rests on the outside of the hair strands. Remember to always keep your eye out for HEALTHY ways to have fun with your hair.. . . . . there are ways,  you just have to hunt for what is right FOR YOU ! ! ! ! 
if you use pastels....our pastels are made in INTENSIVE as a base (beginning today), which is a pH Balancer.
Others may be to, do your label reading just like you do for your food. . 

For Example............ its Summer now and how wonderful it is to begin the season with a yummy Apricot Rose color . . .  one of my favorites 

 What define's a Semi-permanent Color from a Demi? Absolutely NO developer is used, you pour the color out of the bottle into the bowl and grab your tint brush and a wide tooth comb and apply in the exact same method........no 3 Volume no 5 Volume.....no ANY Volume...........and the name they have coined for this category of Colors, now is "Direct Dyes".  

Just today when I saw some new SEMI-Permanent colors.
 I was talking to the warehouse's manager and was corrected when I asked about semi-permanent Hair Color . . . ."Oh, you mean 'DIRECT DYES' as I commented on L'Oreal's new Color Chalks ." 

I wanted to slap her silly face......"Direct Dye".........who thought that lame name up ??? The public is not going to like that and as a Colorist it scares me that what I am hoping will add shine.............spark an unusual color........... and will shampoo out in a short amount of time.....isn't going to do any of those things by the sounds of that name. As usual I have suggestions for the hair color companies, The nice thing is ....if I have patience, in about a year all my dreams.... will COME TRUE.


Lets continue to call them Semi-Permanent & see if we can squash the bad name before it permanently invades!
Semi-Permanents are
wonderful for adding shine, smoothing the cuticle ( so hair looks shiny) giving the hair a gloss that lasts from 10 - 24 days depending on how much you shampoo............. BE SURE to use a Sulfate-Free Shampoo. 
Gives shine, gloss and covers gray for a short time . . . about 2-3 weeks depending on the brand and your porosity and amount of gray and what you are trying to accomplish.

killer chemist 

You know something I forgot to add there are semi's in plain colors, such as brown, light brown, dark blond, light blond, beige blond..........so don't think you have to follow the photos above to get the benefits of a wonderful group of hair color that is not very well known. I bet I could find a good use for every single one of you....Leave your Level and Tone in the comments section and ask me if there is a Semi for you somewhere iun the ever expanding world of hair color ...the category: Semi-permanent colors ;)

June 1, 2014

90% Use Hair Conditioners .... Yet Nearly 75% Say Hair Is Damaged

I would guess most of you have thought at one time or another that the health of your hair seems to be mimicking the way you feel...am I right? The state of your health, stress or worry, dieting, sleep patterns, pregnancies, menstrual cycle, long and short term illnesses, fevers, and very importantly, the drugs, vitamins and minerals you take to counteract them all. Every one of these can affect your hair.
Hair is super sensitive to internal changes. Your hair is the second fastest growing cell in your body, the fastest being your intestinal cells. However, unlike your intestines, hair is a non-essential tissue. It always makes me smile at the fact that the hair is a non-necessary part of the body...........YET.............everyone cares more about "IT" than any other tissue !

Psychologically it is very important, but physically, you could easily survive without it. Your metabolism doesn’t prioritize your hairs needs, but instead aims to keep your essential tissues functioning first and foremost.Which therefore means. . .your hair is usually the first to suffer from any bodily upset, and also the last to benefit from an improvement.

What's the Damage?

More than 90% of women use conditioners but nearly 75 percent say their hair is damaged. 

What is wrong with this picture? 
The Conditioners don't work?
Why do you feel your hair is damaged, when almost all of you are using Conditioners.
I would love a lot of feedback on this question....please answer in the comments section below so I can begin to address your concerns.  

These numbers by Marie Claire magazine are no surprize to me...its something I have been working to combat for years, its just very hard when you feel and think you are about the only one that is trying to combat this issue. But I trudge on...now through this method, maybe just maybe I will reach the kind of numbers I hoped to before.

The health of your hair has always been my main concern. Before anyone had heard of trying to have 'healthy hair' I had hair care cards printed up to give my clients after their first appointment with me - explaining my theory of hair care many of them were shocked that I even cared. There has never been the proper education in hair health, there aren't even any decent books written on the subject in print so its understandable that the general public truly has no idea where to start to have healthy hair.

The gap between the 90% of women that use conditioners..and the 75% that say their hair is damaged can be lessened ....but ONLY if their hair regimen is changed ...obviously the present one is not working.
Although a case in point is a current client consultation I have and this has happened many times before says to me her "hair is damaged". Then I see photos of her hair and her hair looks very healthy to me. When asked , "why she thinks her hair is damaged" , she replies well I have colored it, doesn't that make it damaged ? The answer to that is a big giant NO.  Of course there are many who have colored their hair and it IS damaged but the actual answer to that question is solved by the touch,the color, the porosity and the shine of it. You CAN use Crap-In-A-Box Hair Color and have healthy hair.....Now don't go run out and buy it, because that is usually a Level 5 ..... who wants to be a Level 5....and you apply a pH balancer after the application.

the survey in Marie Claire 
also notes that 79% of women
 are on a mission to solve
 their damaged hair problem

So many of the problems and complaints I hear are preventable I wish I had a daily television show and could review these methods . . because most of them are 100% preventable. Not all and yes there are some legitimate problems out there. . . but nowhere near the 45 million women that are currently suffering. If my 10 steps would be followed I can guarantee there would AT least be 1/2 that many suffering from hair loss - thinning  and bad damage....and I would be much more accurate if I quoted the number 75% ! That is a significant amount of people that would be cured and would be living a much happier and healthier life.

Lets go over a couple steps for review. When trying anything new {as I have to try this new diet a Holistic Educator has given me this past week} I will try it for 90 -120 days, if I see no results by then, it may not work for me. I think you should follow my lead, it always works

#1 Nutrition........You must change this category & it is not about eliminating food it is about adding the proper foods to make sure you are getting proper nutrition to keep the hair cycle from dying out and fading away. Eat breakfast every single day and eat protein for breakfast - eat broccoli at least 4 out of 7 days...... an apple every single day / a handful of almonds every single day and the Secret Supplement - Protein is a must, and the egg white is the perfect protein for your hair's health. Proteins are used to build tissue cells, including the cells of your hair, skin and nails. 80-85% of your hair is composed of a protein called keratin. Dietary proteins are your hairs’ building blocks - they make your hair strong and help keep it in its growing phase

#2. Water......If you cannot drink the water out of your tap.....then it is too lousy for your hair as well. You need to invest in a shower filter for the shower you use. You can get them for $50. up to $150.....Aquasana seems to be the most popular - scope them out on the web...for a good price - you will need filters and I'm telling you this makes a big difference in skin and hair.!

#3. Shampoo . . . . This is soooooooo important, please throw away all your old crappy shampoos that are not sulfate-free. I have been touting this horrible ingredient for years and finally the shampoo companies are all coming out with a "sulfate-free' model - which makes my job so much easier

Your hair is composed primarily of protein

#4. Stress-Free Daily life > you will probably chuckle at this one, like oh sure that's easy to do.. When people used to pay money to the clinic to become a 30 or 90 day client, they were required to follow all 10 steps, I know they never DO follow all of them but I pray they follow the most they can handle. This step requires 2 activities I tell them are imperative...if you are gun-ho are repairing your hair, do both of these - you won't believe the improvement.

  1. #1 Yoga for 35-45 minutes 3 or 4 days per week- the UPSIDE DOWN factor is what helps this the most

  2. Walking 35-45 minutes 3-4 days per week with NO music and No other people - ALONE -> absolutely NO electronics allowed

5.Water . Must drink at least 1 quart of WATER every day. Water energizes the root of the hair strand and that is where the decision and the future of your hair lies....IN THE ROOT. People don't realize this but each individual hair is "terminal"  it lives on your head from 2-4 years, then dies and sheds. Then there is a rest pattern before another hair strand is formed, don't you want that new hair strand to be strong and virile. It needs lots of water to begin its new life.

The only way to turn health starved hair into luxurious hair is by drastic measures...it CAN be done....my old clients used to do it all the time.

6.)  Use Spray Leave-in Conditioner after Shampoo - I happen to believe in a different system than most as far as shampoo / conditioner.  I don't believe in a daily conditioner that is heavy and creamy....I believe in a very light spray-in Conditioner- such SOMA Leave-IN Conditioner- following your sulfate-free shampoo. That way your hair is not weighed down, and is light, loose & free to blow in the wind on YOUR WALK !!! see above!

7.)  UV Protection - Your hair can burn, just like your skin. This makes it more prone to splitting and further damage. If you sit in the sun for a prolonged period of time, protect your hair with a  leave-in protector or wear a hat.

The hair cuticle protects your hair from damage

8.) Stay away from Hot Tools. Such as flat irons, or what many of you call straighteners. Curling Irons, Crimping irons all tools that develop a quick Style by frying the Hell out of your hair. These tools, might as well say on the box: This tool will break off 1/2 of your hair if used at the higher temperatures.....which everyone does OR if you repeat the same action on the same section of hair. How many of you repeat the curling or straightening action on the exact same section of hair????  Is every single persons hand raising?........because it should be ! ! !

 I don't expect everyone to be a martyr, I have recently added my favorite Blow Dryer to the store,we all want to have nicely styled hair .... if at least for going on a date, a wedding, a party, any special event....some like to style their hair every day ..... when you do....  the least harmful hot tool for your hair is a blow dryer and a round or half-round brush. So please use those if you absolutely don't like to leave the house without some style.

Remember this question I'd like to see answers for:

Why do you feel your hair is damaged, when almost all of you are using Conditioners. I would love a lot of feedback on this question....please answer in the comments section below so I can begin to address your concerns ??