June 19, 2014

Hair Color & How the Application Process is Accomplished Properly

1.) Haircoloring should be applied methodically. Quarter the hair: part the center-front to center-back and ear to ear. then apply color along these lines first.Apply the color the same way every time, you will begin to get the rhythym and find yourself covering every inch and completing faster and faster. 
Then take thin sections as you go up the quarter and I promisae you it is faster ( and I know it doesn't seem so) trust me. The color will go on more evenly.
2.) Color will be applied to any areas that require the longest timing ....and what would that be? the grayest of the gray when covering gray, the darkest area when lightening.

3.) A good application saturates the hair thoroughly, but does not smother it. Oxidation color needs exposure to O-X-Y-G-E-N and doesn't get it if you have 2 tons of hair color on each section ! Dont be stingy either -- wet the hairthoroughly, paint it thinly in color -- but, don't cake it on.

4.) Don't pack the hair together for processing either. Loosen the hair, seperate the strands, so that air can get to it. 

5.) When your application is complete, check it. Always check it ...even if you think it was perfect. you can take a 1 inch piece of hair with color all over it, grab your Tail Comb get in front of a mirror with bright lighting and scrspe the color OFF of that once inch strand....hold the hair around your GLOVED finger....wiping and scraping the color OFF to look and see if it is correct. It does take time and experience but if you have left it to the longest processing time, it is almost always a winner.

Processing Time
Unless it says it on the directions... the timing is begun when you are finished with applying the color.. Lay down your tint brush and ALWAYS pick-up a timer - immediately ! - or your phone. If you begin the timing from when completed my rule is 40-45 minutes. If its highlift Blonde  it should be 1 hour. 
Bleach is on a case by case basis.

I happen to believe that the short processing time on professional color is that way to appeal to busy Colorists, who are in a Salon and have to jam in 20 clients a day. They want that color to work fast. I tested it back when I was in the Salon....and found with every brand the color turned out so much better when we left it on 45- to 75 minutes. If you have a specific processing question you can join our Group or ask me a question in the comments section -below- although that is the last place I get to... after making my rounds.

There are strict rules that State Boards of Cosmetology set out to uphold, are odd & weird, but I suppose I see some justice in them....when just starting out. As a home hair Colorist I would like to emphasize that it will be in your best interest to follow some of these rules .

 What you are supposed to do is determine where in the 4 quarters of the head you should 'begin the application of color". 
Remember how I have explained: dividing the hair into quarters... in order to apply the color.... in an organized fashion?? Like you see in these illustrations:

If you use this set-up, I promise you will become a Crib Colorist much easier.

Lets make it easier, because we all know applying color to yourself is not the easiest thing in the world .

These are pretty self explanatory, for the most part. Apply the formula to the new growth and avoid overlapping ... but you will always  want to grab your comb:
  • apply a few squirts of Gleam to your hair and comb it through with a wide tooth comb
  • outline the section first, that you begin with, with the hair color you are using
  • the section you start with should be the section with the most gray in it....start ON the gray on the scalp edge first - as well. Having the hair color on the 'gray hair' the longest will  help in coverage, by being on the hair longer..
  • I cannot give hard fast rules about "pulling through". Pulling through is what you will do after you have gone around and tinted the base ( new growth), if you are tinting hair Level 7 or darker  (depending on the health)...almost all of you will be pulling through the extra tint you have in the bowl to refresh the color on your lengths. To be honest you kind of carefully apply it to the lengths QUICKLY  and carefully spread it around with a tint brush and comb it through  the strands with an application comb so the color will go all the way through.
  • Now you blondes, you don't have much to gain by pulling through, so do not just do it because you've read about the term or heard it from a girlfriend. Blondes, remember, are removing hair color in order to make the hair blonde. So, if you were to repeat it , you would do nothing but  damage and deplete the strength of your hair and ends. Many times I would use a tint brush and brush on THRIVEN or INTENSIVE while the base was processing! Then.....do the following:
  • If your ends are overporous you really need a new formula put on the ends, & this is where a really great Semi Permanent comes in and saves the day like a Prince!

It is one of the rules that were designed by the State Board of California, that I felt were more silly than anything, once I became a Colorist. These State Board tests have Roller Sets and finger waving in them which are such outdated techniques it was always hard to pay attention to anything they taught. The V.Sassoon Academy gave ZERO respect to those tests, so I guess that just transferred over to me.

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