January 23, 2014

Hair Color Formulating - Calculate that Color !

                        Formulating Guidelines
Every single Hair Color line is different, so ALWAYS ...and I mean Always read the paragraph of directions with every different line of color you change to. Why? Because every line has a different RATIO of Color to Developer. They go from 1:1...which means 1 part color to 1 part developer....for example: 1 ounce of hair color squeezed into the bowl  plus 1ounce developer. Up to 1: 2. The very best way of measuring hair color, is with a small kitchen /postal scale , digital is best. Most of our Group members have acquired a nice - decent one from Target  ( there is no way I can beat the price - its under $20) that weighs in 'grams' now if you join the group you get all sorts of help help with calculating your first formula and others if you want to stay.

These are just some General guidelines of Hair Color Formulating, lets start with which Developer you use and why?
         remember go over the manufacturers  directions for each different brand

  • The Volume strength of the Developer is determined by how much lightening is required in your formula, to determine how many levels of lift you are lifting compare YOUR natural....Higher Volumes are are used for higher lift.
  • If you are not lifting, but are matching the natural base or going darker than 20Volume is sufficient ...some companies will recommend using 15 or 10Volume,even for just depositing.
To determine how many levels you are lifting . . . compare your virgin hair to the new hair you would like to have, or your "desired" hair color. The difference between the 2 is the number of Levels you are lifting.

Don't let this be too confusing...it is pretty simple

DESIRED Level                                                     DL
minus                                                                    minus
NATURAL Level                                                     NL
_____________________                                   equals   Levels of Lift
 Is the number of Levels You are Lifting

10 Volume - up to 1 Levels of Lift
20Volume -  up to 2 Levels of Lift
30 Volume - up to  3 Levels of Lift
40 Volume - up to 4 Levels of Lift

With most products 20 Volume would be used to go from a Natural Base of 5 to a target Level of 7.
To Lift a Natural Level 5 to to a 9.............what Volume would be used ?? Why 40...of course!

 thank you ,

January 12, 2014


People have asked me about these, they were out in Europe first, but now we have them all:

New Shades
The new colors above are the darker neutrals 4/ & 5/

January 3, 2014

AN OMBRE - REVERSE & the Trip of How Hair Trends Begin

I saw an OMBRE Reverse today..........I really need to get out more....

Hair Color Trends fade and change and most stay they just are brought back by kids in the street who decide they like a certain thing or fad one of their friends is wearing. The trends are not started by beautiful models or the wealthy people living in St.Tropez.....NOPE...........as I have watched trends come and go I have decided after watching for 20 years right where they start.......

Just a 12-13-14 or 15 year old somewhere we have never heard of usually. Then a hair Stylist sees it on this kid and thinks, "hey that's kind of cool, I'm gonna try that on my next model ". . . and copies it on one of the many hair models that are so willing to sit in a good Colorists chair.....Then someone else sees his work, copies it and it begins very slowly and it happens so slowly and unusually that no one ever (really) gets the proper credit for starting the trend. Because it was some very cool kid skateboarding with his friends and the very cool girls that sit around the skate park and watch them. THAT is how I see it. Sassoon has usually 3-4 trending Shows a Year or they did when I was there and it was run by Annie and Tim Hartley....but I always noticed that those colors while absolutely beautiful did not truly start from them.

Remember when you were a "tween-er" and you set the trends or your friends did? 
 It's still that way!
...The cool people did not grow older with you, silly. The cool people switched to the grade behind you and "they made & began" the trends. I watched it so much in my 2 daughters and even now the one who was so super hip, she is not the one setting the trends anymore she has been left in the dust by the newer generation and THAT is where almost all hair color trends begin. As was so wildly displayed in the past 2-3 year trend of "Krazy Kolors" on so many people and remember it wasn't just a little color - people bleached out their entire head and then applied 5-6-7 colors! The only thing I kept thinking to myself was ....OMG what are all these people going to do when they tire of this....and they WILL tire of it. There is nothing that takes Pravana VIVID Hair Colors out. N-O-T-H-I-N-G. I mean we have had Crazy Colors(various brands) for about 30 years. That is how long they have been around. Does that shock you because Sassoon in England was one of the first to push those colors into high style and make them OK to wear in every day wear. Prior to that it was just the punk rockers and all the ravers who would wear them and they were not acceptable in the fashion world back then. But, you notice how - much more high fashion those colors have become. Ask anyone, who started Crazy Colors? No one knows truly, in my opinion...But they will argue about it forever, so if you are in a Salon ask your neighbor.....!!!!

Like I said , , ,  its a whole different world in hair and hair color. . . . . about every 2-3 years. I swear I say they just change things around I mean what else can they possibly do. But remember, those kids sittin' at that skate park with their tablets and phones & looking at high fashion ideas from all over the world....and the "fashion - cycle" begins again. . . . . . . .

I really like the idea of a true redhead with blonde tips but I could not find a photo of one, if anyone ever finds one will you please send it to me, so I can Post it ???? Please

Facts About Hair Industry From 2013

At the end of the year ....every year ... the Chemistry magazine I subscribe to brings me all the interesting facts about hair  - hair products - from this past year and this up coming year. They have access to facts that cost a whole lot of money for me to acquire access to...therefore I thought I would bring some of them to you as the year winds down and we begin another one.

Now the funny part of who drives the hair industry might surprise you as it did me, the group of people who drive and deliver to the chemists what needs to be in their formulas this year is..........surprisingly


isn't that odd. I don't know about you but that is not what I expect. That's completely backwards to me. Wouldn't you think the Chemists would develop formulations (which is how I work btw), test them.... then take them to the top brass and say lets make this into a product for the hair it does something we have never seen before. But, no according to this magazine they watch what the Consumer (YOU) is looking for and then they have their chemists 'focus' on that category. Ridiculous to me. 

An example of that just yesterday to me was Redken. That big giant - humungous company has finally made their very first Sulfate-free Shampoo. How long have I been preaching the fact that you should NEVER use a shampoo with sulfates in it? Almost 15 years...!!! I would call about once a year and ask "when are you bringing on a Sulfate-Free Shampoo?" Their answer...... " we don't really believe in that theory" ! 

I would tell them I have run tests on it besides watching thousands of clients switch and watching their hair change in front of my eyes...... and hang-up. The new Redken line is now in the store if you would like to give it a whirl. Redken makes great hair care AND styling products across the board.

Back to the stat's...
In the shampoo category for the 52 week period ending Oct. 6, 2013 sales rose 1.5% to $2.6 billion (in supermarkets,drugstores,mass-market retailers certain retail chains) ! Since I've been watching these statistics these numbers have never gone down. If you invest money, look for a company that is beauty based. THEY NEVER GO DOWN ! ! ! !
Its funny they say dandruff shampoo's sales fell 2.2% to $505 Million  but they are only counting the crappy dandruff shampoos you find in supermarkets - all the scalp treatments we have work pretty well. ......... regular shampoo sales rose 2.3% to 2.05 BILLION ! ! (can you believe that) . Hair Conditioners rose 6.6% to 1.9 Billion.

Now in the "Prestige" beauty departments sales grew a whopping 10% to 105 million (that is a LOT in 1 year - compare to the supermarket brands even). Prestige hair care (which is what they call the products I carry in the store)....it is a concentrated segment that is outpacing the performance of the mass channel outpacing the performance of the mass market. There is a lot more access to the elite brands through site's and blog's like this one. 

{Do you know that one person has stolen this entire Blog - put another name on it and attached his store in the Philippines to it? I'm fighting it right now with Google who owns Blogger, but I just cannot believe people sometimes.}

 With increased education from the Internet, it has added to the increase interest in the more elaborate brands that have the better formulations and ingredients. Which I feel has opened up the minds of more of you to the fact that a couple more dollars for a bottle of shampoo -- can truly change the look of your hair.

I like to think that my Crib Colorists and do-it-your-selfers, are learning some of the basics of the professional world....slowly but surely and 1 by 1 this is what I hoped would happen and it is, I just wish it would happen at a bigger scale and faster. If each one of you told ONE person about this Blog and that person told one person we would come closer to my goal....I can't afford the big bucks advertising.....that it takes. 

You do know that when you search on Google those people at the top of the list ...they have paid for that spot. It all has to do with how much money you have. I just want the world to be as educated about the proper way to care for their hair as the wealthy and the celebrity, I don't think something as simple as proper hair care should be limited to those with money. I don't think its fair and its getting there. So please, you tell someone about the Blog and if they put in the code "Become a Crib Colorist" when they check-out and your first name, you will receive a free shipping code for your next purchase!