Showing posts with label Developers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Developers. Show all posts
September 22, 2017

No New Color from Old Hair Color --- or, Can I Save Leftover Hair Color

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Had a couple questions lately about the idea of saving hair color once its mixed - or in other words: can i save the "leftovers'' ? !

Now, I completely understand wanting to save hair color, because it's pricey and so many times you end up mixing too much, but that concept absolutely is 100% wrong and please... never ever save opened /mixed hair color (color with developer added), please.



 I have explained this reasoning in one of the many hundreds of Posts written in this Blog . . . but am happy to revisit now (which is why I encourage everyone to read Blog -- Cover to cover) There are a zillion and 1 posts with pearls of wisdom throughout, solving little hair issues, along the way it connects with almost everyone for one reason or another. Courtney who now works here at Killerstrands & has been a Crib Colorist for a couple years, is surprisingly on-point about almost every subject I ask her about. So you too can be like her and have the knowledge that i possess, dropped on your brain - - -  it will help you for a lifetime. I feel most people care about their hair more than their spouse, children or siblings ! I'm kidding of course. . . because when I took a poll once on our men's BLOG (Razerburn- closed now) over 90% of men....... when asked " what physical part of a female do you love the most? Answered : their HAIR ! Can you believe that?




The reason?  :

 is basically rooted in a whole lot of Scientific jargon, but to make it short.........it 100% does NOT work. When coloring hair, you notice that in pro hair color... the tubes themselves are hermetically sealed. Which means it is sealed so tightly absolutely zero oxygen can enter. 

In order to simply pour it to bowl, you must be pretty strong just to roll down the tube, which is why i suggest a tube Key to make life easier and mainly to get every last drop, its important ...Therefore, use a lethal pointed top and poke a hole in it to open up. It is super tightly sealed for a purpose, if it wasn't it would immediately oxidize and be unusable. Even at the brand new stage "out-of-its-shell" it can oxidize, imagine how fast it oxidizes and becomes unusable once you add the developer. 

When I color very long or very thick/curly hair, I mix up maybe 3-4 batches of hair color while going along . . . you simply add the developer right before you are going to use it --- ALWAYS mixing the hair colors together FIRST, prior to adding developer! You want a fresh batch of color every so-often if you have one of those types of hair.

Hair color oxidizes, which basically means when it hits the oxygen one molecule runs off  and then it will slowly - - pretty much dies off. So,basically, it no longer has the "power" it needs to color the hair. I know many of you do not like to hear this but: the way hair color works, is the result of various chemical reactions which make the hair color 'long-lasting'. But, don't you worry your little heads about those words..... because baking and cooking are just a giant conundrum of chemical reactions and you are putting that IN your body!



Remember : My mission in life currently is to get every last one of you trained properly in hair health & hair coloring techniques. Therefore, if needed or wanted, you can either take care of your own color in a jam, OR you can take over it for fun/hobby. For some reason this past 2 weeks has been riddled with calls inquiring about the need to be able to take care of their own color with Professional results.1/2 were because of health issues by family members and the other half ? desire to join our own Crib Colorist Militia: whose goal it is to become talented home hair colorists (Crib Colorists) and to take up a new hobby!



                                                                       
January 23, 2014

Hair Color Formulating - Calculate that Color !

                        Formulating Guidelines
Every single Hair Color line is different, so ALWAYS ...and I mean Always read the paragraph of directions with every different line of color you change to. Why? Because every line has a different RATIO of Color to Developer. They go from 1:1...which means 1 part color to 1 part developer....for example: 1 ounce of hair color squeezed into the bowl  plus 1ounce developer. Up to 1: 2. The very best way of measuring hair color, is with a small kitchen /postal scale , digital is best. Most of our Group members have acquired a nice - decent one from Target  ( there is no way I can beat the price - its under $20) that weighs in 'grams' now if you join the group you get all sorts of help help with calculating your first formula and others if you want to stay.

These are just some General guidelines of Hair Color Formulating, lets start with which Developer you use and why?
         remember go over the manufacturers  directions for each different brand

  • The Volume strength of the Developer is determined by how much lightening is required in your formula, to determine how many levels of lift you are lifting compare YOUR natural....Higher Volumes are are used for higher lift.
  • If you are not lifting, but are matching the natural base or going darker than 20Volume is sufficient ...some companies will recommend using 15 or 10Volume,even for just depositing.
To determine how many levels you are lifting . . . compare your virgin hair to the new hair you would like to have, or your "desired" hair color. The difference between the 2 is the number of Levels you are lifting.

Don't let this be too confusing...it is pretty simple

DESIRED Level                                                     DL
minus                                                                    minus
NATURAL Level                                                     NL
_____________________                                   equals   Levels of Lift
 Is the number of Levels You are Lifting


10 Volume - up to 1 Levels of Lift
20Volume -  up to 2 Levels of Lift
30 Volume - up to  3 Levels of Lift
40 Volume - up to 4 Levels of Lift

With most products 20 Volume would be used to go from a Natural Base of 5 to a target Level of 7.
To Lift a Natural Level 5 to to a 9.............what Volume would be used ?? Why 40...of course!

 thank you ,
KC
















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