January 23, 2014

Hair Color Formulating - Calculate that Color !

                        Formulating Guidelines
Every single Hair Color line is different, so ALWAYS ...and I mean Always read the paragraph of directions with every different line of color you change to. Why? Because every line has a different RATIO of Color to Developer. They go from 1:1...which means 1 part color to 1 part developer....for example: 1 ounce of hair color squeezed into the bowl  plus 1ounce developer. Up to 1: 2. The very best way of measuring hair color, is with a small kitchen /postal scale , digital is best. Most of our Group members have acquired a nice - decent one from Target  ( there is no way I can beat the price - its under $20) that weighs in 'grams' now if you join the group you get all sorts of help help with calculating your first formula and others if you want to stay.

These are just some General guidelines of Hair Color Formulating, lets start with which Developer you use and why?
         remember go over the manufacturers  directions for each different brand

  • The Volume strength of the Developer is determined by how much lightening is required in your formula, to determine how many levels of lift you are lifting compare YOUR natural....Higher Volumes are are used for higher lift.
  • If you are not lifting, but are matching the natural base or going darker than 20Volume is sufficient ...some companies will recommend using 15 or 10Volume,even for just depositing.
To determine how many levels you are lifting . . . compare your virgin hair to the new hair you would like to have, or your "desired" hair color. The difference between the 2 is the number of Levels you are lifting.

Don't let this be too confusing...it is pretty simple

DESIRED Level                                                     DL
minus                                                                    minus
NATURAL Level                                                     NL
_____________________                                   equals   Levels of Lift
 Is the number of Levels You are Lifting


10 Volume - up to 1 Levels of Lift
20Volume -  up to 2 Levels of Lift
30 Volume - up to  3 Levels of Lift
40 Volume - up to 4 Levels of Lift

With most products 20 Volume would be used to go from a Natural Base of 5 to a target Level of 7.
To Lift a Natural Level 5 to to a 9.............what Volume would be used ?? Why 40...of course!

 thank you ,
KC
















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