January 27, 2016

Reachin for Bleachin' - Why Is My Hair Yellow & Not Beige-Blonde ??

How light is "white"
when bleaching the hair the only answer is "WHITE"like you see in this photo - everyone can achieve this.You MUST use an oil bleach to protect the hair from damage though!

Lighteners / Decolorizing

Lighteners are the chemical compounds that lighten hair by decolorizing the natural hair pigment. I try to explain hair color education in as many ways as I can possibly think of to help everyone understand the theory behind it.

 I like you to understand so it helps you learn how to get yourself out of problem situations. I listen to how distraught everyone is and it really breaks my heart, so the more I teach the more I want you to do your part and READ ! ! 

In order for me to explain what "blonde hair" IS.... I need you to think of hair strands as tubes..... Picture color in tubes, and lets just say the tubes are hair strands.....those hair strands (or tubes are filled up with hair color or pigment that IS your hair naturally, or if its  colored then you have put in there by applying some of your old hair color applications....

 Make sense so far?

Then here comes the Tint brush with the lightener and developer mixed with it to be applied to those tubes....or hair strands.....as soon as the lightener formula (powder or liquid) is mixed with the hydrogen peroxide, it begins to release oxygen. This process is known as oxidation, they call permanent hair color of ANY type ....OXIDATIVE hair coloring.....because of that process that takes place at just that moment.... and it is permanent.......because it occurs within the cortex of the hair shaft.

Hair lighteners are used to create a very light blonde shade that is not achievable with permanent hair color and it is referred to as Bleach. Bleach means lighten if you look the word up up in the dictionary....it does not mean all the terrible things everyone has conjured up in your minds. The one and only reason you have terrible things conjured up is beCAUSE some damn hairstylist has applied bleach and then done what you are not supposed to do she OVERLAPS it the next time she gives you a re-touch..... 

...........and having lightened hair means you are NOT supposed to lighten it on top of the already lightened part AGAIN ! ! ! You are only supposed to lighten the dark part...... and THAT is what gives you a bad feeling about Bleach. Its the Hair Stylist who applied it incorrectly. It actually is thought of as our most useful and loved tool by all top colorists. It just needs a person properly educated to use it. All you need to know is in our Blog, just put the words "blond, bleach, lightener" in the SEARCH Bar and you will learn everything you've always wanted to know!

Otherwise bleach is the single most useful and most handy product in a Colorists arsenal for changing hair color - PERIOD !

The lightest color one can achieve using hair color is with the type of color called HIGH LIFT BLONDING. Every line has their own version of HIGH LIFT blonde tones that ‘claim' to lift 4-5 Levels by using this tube of color plus a double dose of 40 Volume Developer.

Something I have found not to be true.....
...So there are 2 ways of going very blonde.....
#1) High lift Blonde's ( which you will NOT find in a HAIR COLOR KIT) these must be purchased as a tube of color and the developer SEPARATELY.
#2) Bleach or Lightener : In Powder, Creme, Liquid or Oil form.

As a seasoned colorist I have learned that very few of them actually do lift that much color, especially when you are dealing with the entire head or large sections of hair.. When doing something small like highlights most likely you can get the 4 -5 levels of lift (lightening) as you are using foils ( which add HEAT > Heat helps color work faster - and more intensely - altho it is tougher on the condition of the hair) …it all depends on the texture and porosity as well ...just like in all lightening procedures.

THE DECOLORIZING PROCESS, which in common terms is bleaching!

The hair goes through different stages of color as it lightens as you can see in FIGURE 16-19. The amount of change depends on :

· how much pigment the hair has ( how light or dark)
· the strength of the lightening product
· the length of time it was processed
- the texture of the hair
- the porosity of the hair.....etc....

During the process of decolorizing ( Bleaching), natural hair can go through as many as 10 stages FIGURE 16-20. The most common problem? would be when you see yellow hair..which would mean what? Check the stages....
As the hair is lightened....it works its way up the chart... if it stops at "gold"level 7 or even "yellow/gold"level 8...
it means whatever lightener has been used  has not been left on long enough....
Most people do not understand that....I think I have 20 questions alone just today (1/26/2016 )  about why their hair is yellow and what should they do about it.....

Be very careful . . I am not promoting everyone going out and leaving bleach on for hours and hours...or putting it on 2-3 times - like I do.
It takes constant monitoring...it needs to be washed off the minute it hits level 9 or 10 if you can.
If you have dark brown hair the color will go from brown to orange quickly.
BUT, then going from orange to Pale yellow will take multiple applications.....that is the only way to achieve properly lightened hair.

This chart show the levels

 But the answer to those with gold hair and why is it  yellow or gold? 
9 times out of 10, the hair stylist PANIC - stricken ....took the bleach off....then frantically tried to cover it up with a toner....so for a couple days you have"OK" hair color ( I use that term VERY VERY LOOSELY ! ! ! !)
Then you shampoo it a 3rd or 4th time and you think YOU did something wrong when all along it was a badly trained hair stylist. 

From my point of view 2 out of 10 Hair Stylists know how to color correctly. I worked in 2 very cool Salons in Malibu. In both of them they had over 20 hair stylists but in each there was me and 1 other person I would trust to color my hair and that is the average in LA. where we have the top school in the world. ! ! !

Not all hair will go through all 10 degrees of decolorization. Each natural hair color starts the decolorization process at a different stage. Remember, the goal is to create the correct degree of contributing pigment as the foundation for the final haircolor result.

The hair is never safely lifted past the ‘pale yellow stage’ to ‘white’ with lightener. Going that light with bleach even oil bleach causes excessive damage to the hair strands.
One must be a seasoned hair colorist when going into the light blond range....we know how far we can go and be safe...and its nothing you can really 'teach'...... its simply experience!

10,000 HEADS of hair I had colored 1 year before I was diagnosed.
 Here is a chart I made so you can see what I am talking about......
It shows the color of hair and the arrows indicate each application of bleach to the hair!

I can tell by clearing the color off of a strand of hair EXACTLY what stage its at, so that prevents me from leaving the color on too long. 
Now the problem with most bleaching or lightenings you see on the street are done at home? 
The main problem all of you who have contacted me today is you need another application of OIL LIGHTENER>>>> which we sell kits AND i KEEP THE PRICE DOWN BECAUSE OF ALL THE PEOPLE i HEAR THAT NEED THEM......

WHEN YOU ONLY  bleach the hair once.....look at the chart above.... the color leaves the hair REALLY REALLY fast on the first APPLICATION as you can see it dips almost 3 full levels.....THEN, it gets stuck and that is where the majority of America gets stuck .... see where the arrow is after application #1 its on 5. ORANGE!!!.....some of you get lucky and it passes orange and lands on what we call BLORANGE... the chart calls it orange/Gold....I don't care what you call it.......
its hideous.
The only way to get out of this mess is to keep lightening the hair. 
I promise you.
What keeps people in these horrific golds & BRASS is FEAR from using  the lightener again. But when I lighten hair I can't wait to use the next application because the next application will get the hair color OUT of this crappie color.

Big shot Colorist's trick?
> use our OIL BLEACH Kit  !
> apply it twice . . . . sometimes 3 times - yep . . .in the same day -- the trick is...in knowing when to stop.
> OIL Bleach continues to work for 3 hours. Each hour the speed at which it works slows down. Therefore, the first hour the bleach is jamming & working quickly, then depending on costs - timing - etc...is how we determine if we are going to wash it out and reapply a new fresh batch or leave it in and let the speed diminish.
Sometimes that will be the best answer.
MY usual protocol : I apply our Oil bleach and 30 volume > 1 inch FROM ROOTS and thru ends.... (apply to roots as very last step).. for last 45-50 minutes.
Reapply - new batch of oil bleach on ends and in the last 1/2 hour apply to roots.
Being very careful to use very small sections to apply the product.
Many many moons ago (16 years ago) when I did my very first RADical hair color ( I still have the photos).I took an ASIAN gal (PITCH BLACK hair) gave her a Halo around her face of 1 inch -- surrounding her hairline of WHITE hair.... my mentor wanted me to learn how to get to "white" on the most difficult of hair. Asian hair is the toughest to work on because of its 'texture' (its coarse) and its porosity ( it has none)...But, when you have completed either colour or a dynamic cut on it, it also looks better than any other hair.

So its worth the effort -- if you think that way!
It took from 7:00 AM in the morning to 7:00 at night. But it was a pure snow white HALO with JET black Base that I actually made a BLUE-BLACK so the most extreme contrast possible.
That was the day I knew I wanted to master the art of HAIR COLOUR.... and I never looked back.
It was a very sweet ride and I can honestly and proudly say. . . . I can do do ANYTHING in the art of hair color...anything and everything.

Even ended up making up some procedures like "tattooing" hair....
I would bleach white the hair and then paint a Tattoo on the back of the head at the base this was 15 years ago so very early on tin the world.

Back in the day I was not so into computers... so i didn't take photos of all my crazy work when i should have
 I thought I would be doing hair forever I never knew something like this woud take me down....I always thought I'll take photos the next time......I could always re-do it...never thinking this would happen...of course...
as a matter of fact computers are the opposite of hair color....so I understand why many of the TOP colorists are not ONLINE, I would have never done this . . .
had I not gotten sick.
Doing hair is working with people and talking to people so sitting working with and ON computers was the absolute very last thing I thought I would have to do in my life......
here is one guy I had some shots of
- lousy photos -
-but you get the idea . . . . He's hispanic so black hair again...
see what color a bleach should be?
He wanted flames to match the flames he had a car painter > paint on his jacket....
- - of course!

It kicked ass

I hope you get the idea with what the problem is when you have brass gold or orange in your hair. Invest in our OIL bleach kit, you will be so glad you did, it doesn't damage the hair at all!

Remember once you have bleached white hair using BOOST & BURST can be one of life's better pleasures. 
January 26, 2016

How To Get Yourself Out Of A Panic Hair Color Mess

Here is a perfect example of a problem I hear about 20 - 40 times a day.... everyday. This is a true story and I have just changed the name

I just want an example of what you should do  - - so you do not end up with an even worse mess by "covering up" a hair color GONE WRONG.

I think this is 1 point I have never talked about before, but the last thing you should do when you have a mistake on your hands in regards to your hair color, is....DO NOT COVER IT UP WITH ANOTHER HAIR COLOR. That just adds another coat of paint to an already wrong color underneath. Layers of bad color just make things worse. The idea to recovery? 
Bad Hair Color Removal

Question by a Blog reader:
I really need to know of a box color that is the equivalent of ION 8N & 8G. Sally's gave me horrible advice and gave me Wella color charm T18 toner. However instead of a nice blonde I have completely gray hair! I have a ton of coupons for box color because I have so much hair it takes 2 HELP PLEASE

Now here is my answer - to her - to YOU - to EVERYONE.
Please Do NOT PANIC and cover it up, nothing could be worse.....and when I hear people say , can I use "this" color - just because they have it o"ON-HAND"....it just makes me want to cry.
WHY? Because there is a reason you have it just sitting around and that reason is BECAUSE its a BAD HAIR COLOR otherwise you would have used it up by now.  Stop and think about what I have said, because its the truth. 

I have met tens of thousands of people in my hair coloring career and I have learned 1 thing from talking to people who have more money than GOD and people who live paycheck to paycheck.....
EVERY SINGLE PERSON CARES MORE ABOUT THEIR HAIR THAN THEY DO ABOUT their own GROCERIES. If I give them the option of scrimping on their groceries for a couple weeks over having shitty hair color...... they all choose : scrimping on their own groceries for a couple weeks !  
 People choose having beautiful hair color over almost everything....
So, if that is the case, why are you willing to use a $9 box of hair color that will for sure, 
trash your hair beyond belief ? 
I know this because I have spent my career removing boxed hair color.
The very first thing people tell me when box hair color comes out?

" omg my hair feels like "my hair" again...
Thank you sooo MUCH"

 I'm sorry, I do not mean to be harsh but I want you to stop and think before you get in more trouble than you already are....anf if I am nice and kind and don't use some of the words I am using - I feel I will lose your attention....if I haven't already!
but I would never in my life recommend box hair color for anyone........for A-N-Y-T-H-I-N-G.  I receive hundreds of complaints about boxed hair color every single day of every single month month of every single year for the past 16 years....

Its why I started a Petition to BAN BOX HAIR COLOR from being sold.
 Most Hair Stylists like the fact that you have to come to them to get your hair color fixed, because Hair Color Correction is the most expensive service on our LIST OF SERVICES !  

But for me. . . . IT BREAKS MY HEART . . . to hear these stories. To listen to so many people so sad and so frantic to find a solution - ANY SOLUTION.... Read the question at the top again . . . see how frantic people become and she is is mild compared to many, It breaks my heart that so many people are so distraught about their hair color being ruined by Sally's or BOXED color I don't know which one is worse. But being as Sally's is a billion dollar company, I'm sure it is going NO-where - so I felt if maybe I brought attention to the fact that boxed hair color is the wrong answer - maybe somebody would listen to me.

 Any color system that has no choice gives the purchaser less than a 30% chance of the color being correct. That is not very high. There is a way to sell hair color to the masses, but people would be required to read a page of directions. . you MUST be able to choose the hair color and the Volume of the developer for YOUR hair situation or you will for sure end up in a giant mess. You have to read directions to put your vacuum cleaner together or even  a piece of furniture from IKEA.......... why can't people be required to read a page of directions before they purchase a hair color system? So they have a 80% chance of the color coming out correctly.????
What I am trying to do is help people get OUT of messes.
 Now for what you have right now, covering it up with boxed hair color is not how you get out of that mess. . .

That is what gets people in messes where they end up having to go to the Salon for very expensive "COLOR CORRECTION" procedures, i KNOW ..........I used to do them... Now that I am on this end of the problem I see exactly how people end up in these situations, which many times I did not understand before.

 So, if you could please just take a few breaths and just do some reading here it will get you out of your mess without having to create more of one.
If you really hate the color you have please begin doing a process called the shampoo train. If you put another color on top you have a high percentage of creating an even larger disaster.

In the Salon when someone comes to us with a Color Correction issue, the first thing we do is use a Color REMOVER - which is called VANISH and we sell it in our store if you want to purchase some, one box has 2 applications and no it is not a cheap product but what it is --- is a MIRACLE product. It reverses the way the hair got inside of your hair strands, without bleach + without peroxide + without one thing that damages the hair. It truly is a miracle product. As it shrinks the hair color molecules ..... they go back  OUT OF THE HAIR STRANDS, and go down the drain.
As a matter of fact your hair will feel more like your hair USED to, people tell me all the time.
So I would truly think about making that investment.

Because having trashed hair is the #1 worst thing to have in my book.....and according to all the questions I have asked my clients along the way every single one of you agrees with me!

When its trashed...... everyone can see it, every-single-day of your life. So, before you run out there and create more problems for yourself, please consider my suggestion.
Then while you are waiting for VANISH to ARRIVE AT YOUR DOOR.....

You may begin with the Shampoo Train.Which is a series of repetitive shampooing with the crappiest shampoo you can find.
WHY you ask? Because Shampoo with sulfates will not damage your hair, what it will do is REMOVE HAIR COLOR which is why we don't use it to begin with but everyone has one bottle of shitty shampoo under their sink...if not borrow some...

Shampoo with LOTS of shampoo create a giant lather and rub the hair and shampoo between the hands really hard, then put more shampoo on make a gigantic suds ball pile it on top of your head, put a plastic cap - shower cap- or some type of cap and leave it there

overnight even.

While you are waiting for VANISH the Shampoo Train is something I invented when I used to do hair models hair and they had to switch colors all the time but they weren't in the same city as me.....so until they got to me I had them do the shampoo train to loosen the color molecules so when they finallyu got back to LA I found many times I would only need 1 box of VANISH when I normally needed 2. What it did for me was SAVE ME TIME! !
But, what it does for youa? ? ? ? ?  Is SAVE YOU MONEY ! ! !
Some people ( most people need more than 1 box of VANISH) 

 If you have layers of hair color on your hair, you will need at least 2 boxes which is 4 applications. 
The idea?
Is to get the lousy color out, begin reading this BLOG so you can learn HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR HAIR COLOR THE CORRECT METHOD and then never need it again.

Then While you are waiting for your VANISH read every Post about the hair color you are trying to become, my best suggestion once again? Read the Blog from cover to cover.....you get a FREE MINI Cosmetology class and learn how to properly color your hair- which is my MISSION with this BLog and My Store.
January 24, 2016

The 1st Step Towards A New Hair Color Formula . . . . the SHAMPOO TRAIN

Well, boys & girls. . . the Number 1 Topic for the entire month of January, so far. I guess, because its a New Year and people want to start over or Start a-New??? ..........is the most talked about subject with just about everyone I speak to - Getting old hair color out of your hair and starting over...........or
in other words: how to begin getting a Hair Color formula that will be healthy and shiny? ?

I want to reiterate how super important it is to REMOVE ( and I mean completely remove the old lousy hair color you presently have) BEFORE starting over again. I swear on my children's lives this is not a ridiculous ploy just to get you to buy stuff from us. I swore when I began this whole parade that I would not "sell-out" like that. MY main mission here is:
To help all of you achieve a proper hair color formula.    

I talk about this method because through the over 10,000 Heads of hair I colored in the Salon ... I tried every trick in the book on my clients and the only way to start over again with top notch hair color is to completely remove the old crappy hair color you presently have on there. Yes, its going to be a bit pricey & Time consuming.....but just THINK, what you are trying to do ! You are trying to remove "PERMANENT HAIR COLOR"  ! ! !                                                         
If its "permanent'' then how in the Hell are we removing it?

 When you put that crappie color "in" all you wanted was for it to COVER your silver hair, remember ? So at the time....it was "whats darker is better"...or what sticks is better........ right?? but I have come up with a trick that helps you cut the color removal process  (almost) in half ! Of course you will need to purchase the boxes of VANISH - there is no getting around those.....what I try to help with is having to use as few as is possible. You may always return any boxes of VANISH ( as long as they are unused - of course).

Yes, its more work
No, its not easy and not quick
Yes, if you want it to be as easy & quick as possible - you may by purchasing 4-8 boxes of VANISH. 

Spend one weekend.......... beginning Friday night ..........and just Apply VANISH Treatment AFTER Treatment to your hair along with using the Travel Bonnet Hair Dryer and applying HEAT for the 30 minutes you have the Liquid concoction on your hair. Then by late Sunday afternoon - if you TEST your color and it pasts the test ...........you may re-color your hair and you are all set!

I want to talk about exactly how to go about the Shampoo TRAIN... so that the theory sinks into everyone's body / mind & Soul  !  !  

Why do people talk about it so much? .............because when new people arrive at the PEARLY GATES of Killerstrands..............
They read 10-15 Posts.....feel like I make sense and decide to change over to our way of hair coloring and doing things.
 THAT is what all you newbies are learning and going through and we love that about Killerstrands. We have a constant stream of new people discovering us. We do not advertise, I happen to not like it when a website I was shopping at all of a sudden starts following me around the Internet as I continue to shop.....so, for 2 reasons.....1) I think that is a rude and an obnoxious way of advertising AND 2) advertising on the web is expensive. So, I am going to hope that all of you will help us by just mentioning our name and if you would like a few business cards we will be happy to send a few with your next order ....just request them in the "notes" section as you check-out!

So for coloring hair with us this begins 1st and foremost by removing the OLD hair color from your present strands of hair. This is super important if you want to really start FRESH. I receive countless questions about this subject, no matter how hard I try to explain it. So, I will never quit explaining it, I will however try different methods of explaining it trying to get into everyone's heads the importance of completely removing the present hair color and how to accomplish it correctly quickly and thoroughly!  
The Bad News :
there is no cheap & fast way to do this.
The GOOD News?
Once you go through this process, & take the time to do it right............you will be one of the happiest people on planet earth. I can tell through emails how ecstatic people are when that old color begins to come out....they start to tell me this:
" KC my hair is starting to feel like real hair again, it no longer feels like straw"....
I have heard this thousands of times, so you need to just trust me.
You only have to do this once, because once you do this and feel the substantial change in the way your hair feels.....you will never look back. 

So, place your order for 1 VANISH Kit (the Kit has all these little weird things you need to complete the applications) and the rest VANISH boxes ( a lot of people purchase all VANISH KITS but its up to you !) while you are waiting for your VANISH to get to you, I have devised another method of old hair color removal that you can begin TODAY ! I used to use this on my hair models....
These were young women who had the best hair on planet earth and we would color it red for a magazine shoot one week, then we would want to use her for a different commercial 3 weeks later for blonde hair...so I would have her hop on the SHAMPOO TRAIN immediately, until the boxes of VANISH got to her. 
So you may start the minute you stop reading this. Go in the bathroom , look under your sink, look for the crappiest oldest - lousiest made shampoo (you want this shampoo to be WITH sulfates - because  sulfates FADE hair color) and this is the most gentle way of removing hair color - next to VANISH ! By using Shampoo WITH sulfates.

People like to fight me on this idea, they want to purchase 1 box of VANISH and think that will be enough to remove the past 5-10-15 years of boxed hair color they have been piling on their head.Think about that....that is silly to think that.....because 1 box will remove 1- 2 applications.......but I bet you applied it about 6-8 times a year. 

You need to be realistic with this. I have watched many a Hair Stylist around me not go to the lengths of trouble that I was taught to do to remove old crappie hair color before re-applying new professional hair color. I do......... to remove old hair color FIRST.....before applying another color....ONLY to get themselves in a GIGANTIC MESS. and have the new color turn out green or some other God awful mess. So, please trust me on this.

It is as important to go through removing your old hair color properly .........

as it is coming up with your new formula.

So. please take the time necessary to remove the old hair color all the way. I came up with the Shampoo Train because many times the models would be on location somewhere and would not be in the same city as me......... and they would ask me, "what can I be doing to work towards removing my hair color while we wait for me to get back to L.A.???
It hit me almost immediately when she asked me that.... as I tried to think of a GENTLE hair color remover.....and realzed that all those shampoo's that I have condemned to the trash or under the sink....could now be put to work. So about 15 years ago I had a hair model start shampooing her hair, scrubbing the lengths of the hair back and forth really hard. Then piling more shampoo on top creating even bigger lather  - apply plastic cap ( with suds still in hair) and she slept with it in. In the morning she called me so thrilled, you'd think I had discovered the cure for cancer. She did this for the next 5-6 days still flew home and I was BLOWN away. 

Just use lousy shampoo, or chlorine pools, the sun, the Malibu DDL packet , CPR (Color Pigment Reducer) and QUICK FIX or Color Correction packets...........they all can be used alternately with Shampoo Train for hair color removal.....but just realize how important this step is.

The SHAMPOO TRAIN..............which btw you can now GOOGLE and it will give you your answer!
 I only tell you this because I want you to only have to go through this whole she-bang once .....and only once !  In all my years of doing hair color less than 20 % could get away with using only 1 box of VANISH (which is 2 applications) .
You really want to rush through this ?....................NNNNNooooooooooooooooo!

Lets try to begin doing procedures correctly NOW and continue doing them correctly, so that from here on forward you are following the
of Healthy Hair + Proper Hair Coloring


If you start out correctly then every time you color your hair the Results will be spectacular ! !  
You simply need to follow the super simple rules for application/formulating and processing times, each and every time and not slip into BAD HABITS then you will have that Runway MODEL Hair Color. Please do not cut corners when learning Crib colorist Techniques. I already have skimmed them as low as you can go and still have high quality - so start reading more as you sit there with a big pile of shampoo suds and a cap on your hair and you are removing hair color molecules as we speak.

Crib Colorist Militia is being formed ...........stay tuned....!

January 6, 2016

The Start of the Crib Colorist Militia ! The Killer 18 Questions!

If you would like to joinGET ANSWERS TO THESE QUESTIONS REGARDE   - begin using our products and I will give you my formula to the answers you give ... to the following "Killer18 Questionnaire!"

The Killer 18 ...........Questions for hair color formula for me to use to analyze your hair and future formula Selection when you have previous hair color on, I need to know the answers to these questions in order to give you a better formula

    Texture ?
    Length of hair ?
    Ethnicity ?
    Is Hair VIRGIN?
    Hair Bleached ?
    Porosity ?
    Boxed Color?

    How many?
    Percentage of Gray?
    What Type of Color is on ...Box?
    Professional?  Straightener? Ever?
    D.U.R.P. - Dominant-Underlying-Remaining-Pigment ?
    Your opinion ...Resistant? or Not?
    Used HENNA/NATURAL claim' products that don't work??
    Virgin Color - Level & Tone ?
    Current Color - Level & Tone?
    Desired Color - Level & Tone ?

    For the best help... PLEASE send me 3-4 photos of hair profile/back/roots/long distance
    in "NATURAL Light ! " 


Questions for Hair Color Killers,

 lets conquer solving our hair color formula's !

Send your answers ( no longer than 6-8 words per answer) writing a book does NOT help me, I promise . . . 

I only need the basics.,

January 5, 2016

Part 2 : Difference In Professional Hair Color + Public Color ? - Description of Koleston Perfect & Quality Hair Color !

Difference in Pro Hair Color 
& Public Hair Color?

NOTHING Secretive that's for sure !  

. . . . . . .  its the ''Quality'' of the Color 

& the QUALITY of the Developer ! !

and that’s it. . . . . . there are no tricks and no secret information Hair Stylists have or receive -- as they make you feel like, which took a long time for me to come to terms with...a LONG LONG Time ! Yes we received an education, but if you didn't pay attention in school most likely you will pass your State BOARD TEST ! ! !

The article below is the original one with some updates to it AND, the answer to the same question I receive over and over ...... In regards to MY EXPLANATION REGARDING THE DIFFERENCE's BETWEEN the QUALITY issue between PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR and PUBLIC HAIR COLOR ??

WHY DO YOU THINK THEY WOULD GO TO ALL THAT TROUBLE OF HIDING IT of not making professional hair color available to the public for all these years?   Like in Europe you can purchase Wella's hair color's at the local drug store but they are made like the lower quality level we have here, which is called Color Perfect and Color Charm (Sally's Wella's colors).

I have explained in non ending explanations about how the ingredients in each of the hair color lines made available to the Hair Stylists who have spent 1-4 years training, & giving them a State Board issued test that certifies each of us as to whether or not we deserve to purchase "professional hair color at wholesale prices". This system has been within our government since hair color and hair stylists were born. Every year I receive a bill for $66.00/ for my yearly dues. In California we have the most hair stylist licenses in the USA given out, it is over 1 million. I often wonder why we never hear of where the money from every state's Cosmetology Board goes to ? ? ? I know its not Billions but money doesn't have to be "billions" to be "a-Lot " ! Imagine if you added every state's Board's money up.... that would be in the billions and that is each and every year. I mean who came up with this idea of having the top quality - high-end....LUXURY hair color ONLY to be made available to the Professional Stylists.
I go on and off ...........about thinking about,  whether its a good idea or not?!?!

People write me over and over and I would like to put the question to rest, with this....
They, I guess, either go grasp a professional color and grasp a Sally's brand of color. They see ''like'' ingredients in both, so they think my theory is debunked !  

But, that is not at all what I am referring to. Remember I spent nearly 3 years making hair conditioners, Lotions, Lip gloss, make-up, shampoos, color shampoos & conditioners a very long time ago!  I learned all of this fantastic information from a famous cosmetic chemist who used to have a weekly online education forum that many of us who are super serious about "HOW" our personal care products are made, learned & studied under. I tore apart formula's and learned from the bottom on up...how to make these products, all the way to how they MUST BE LABELLED FOR FDA APPROVAL!

I learned that as long as there was 1 gram of any ingredient in a product...you were allowed to apply it's name to your ingredient list on the rear label.. 1 gram is less than a tear drop, wwwwwway less. Which means if one company has Rose Hips Seed Oil in their Dry hair oil at 38% (like we do in Gleam) and another has 1/2 Gram - the product will not only be nothing like GLEAM, if you add products like silicone's ( that are now hidden under all sorts of weird name's) to that "Duplicate" product it will take that 1 Gram of Rose Hips Seed OIl and mess up all its dynamic qualities. 

Plus, 1st of all . . . .You cannot tell me you can find 2 products made by 2 separate Large corporate competing company's that have the EXACT same ingredient List. There are so many elements. Look at the developers their are luxury developers and cheap developers so when thos are mixed with lousy brand of hair color you really don't have a chance. 

You MUST MUST MUST try to spend as much as possible using top quality hair products...do your research, become educated in the world of hair. As far as I've seen every single one of you . . . .LOVE'S YOUR HAIR  ! !  !!
Applying the color to the hair through a bottle or the more proper method of, a tint bowl and a brush is about the only other major difference, I think there is. Using a Tint brush you can apply pressure to the strands which forces the hair color into the strands and produces a more ''even'' color , in my humble opinion. Every top Colorist in the world uses the Tint brush method for that reason. 

Procedures change in the hair color world for a reason. 
Usually that reason is -“THEY  FIGURED OUT THEY WORK MUCH BETTER ! "

For those of you who are brunette's I notice this color line never sells and it is one of the most used brunettes I used when I did hair, so PLEASE PLEASE consider the Brown Red-Violet hair color line series, mixed with a Neutral -- you will have the hottest brunette in the world.   it is Gorgeous!

The BRV Series which you see here is a Brown-Red-Violet… a gorgeous warm brown, I wouldn’t say the Red-Violet is anything monumental just very subdued – perfect – these are all amazing colors, if you want more of a jolt of either the red or the violet you would use this as the base of your formula.
Lets say you want a Level 6 BRV as your “desired color”, with more of a jolt of Violet to it than just this mellow version they give you.     
I would use:  1 ounce of 7BRV ( because of how dark the colors run) 
+ 1/2 ounce of 0/66VV (violet booster) =
most likely with 20 Volume ( must answer the Killer 8 to know that)

 Wella KP 2010 chart166
Now on the other hand if you basically wanted a nice Level 5 BRV but with a little punch more of RED
I would choose a Base of
6BRV - 1 ounce ( we called this color Heather for years)
 and then add to 6BRV
+1/2 ounce to 1 ounce of  6/45 – 6RRV.
Both of these colors have a corresponding color in Color Touch, which is what is so easy to use to refresh the ends. 

Back when my hair was miraculously groomed, I would always refresh my lengths 2 weeks after the main color. Which is exactly what all those celebrities with their never-ending gorgeous looking hair do. . . I would show up at their door with my entire mobile hair color silver metal Case ( its made to hold rifles, but worked great for my ‘traveling color business’ which was a large part of my business just before my diagnosis . We all know reds fade quicker than any other color…but using them in this manner with BROWN as the main hue, that problem won’t be an issue.  

I know it might seem odd to you but I really want to try to get through to everyone, that when you are planning your formula for your next hair color or any hair color for that matter…the idea is not to pick out the color you want from hair color swatches. The idea is to pick colors that will counter the problems you are having…. say if your DURP is brassy, yet you want a pleasant – more mellow – GOLD……..you do not pick colors from the GOLD page of the chart. That would be disastrous.
I would choose “N” series if the brass isn’t too bad if it is then I would pick a color from either the /71 BA series ( Brown Ash)- which is my most used category, it fights most issues and turns out beautiful browns. Also the next page which is the /07 NB series – which stands for NEUTRAL BROWN...awesome colors that fight most common issues the NB series...Neutral Brown a very straight-up Brown – the Frosty Brown collection.

Wella KP 2010 chart163

This Series came out right about the same time the /71 BA series came out - - everyone was thrilled as they had finally put in 1 tube what every person I know was making. I mean mixing > 1/2 ounce of 8N and 1/2 ounce of 8 B
= makes 8NB.
Which was one of my most commonly used combo’s.
Another great brown?
7N  + 7A + 7 M + 7B  = 7BAMN………..awesome and it covers gray wonderfully if needed, or the color in general is superb. No need to switch it up for non-gray or Gray. Just a good-to-know straight-up-Bombshell BROWN  . . . just trying to show you how to formulate not using the prettiest hair color swatches. 

At my stations in the Salon - these color swatch boards were prohibited. If you don’t understand how they are made and how the Level system works then they are really pointless.  The way to get clients hair the exact right color they want is by using colors that fight the hairs objectionable tendencies, such as ‘reds’-‘oranges’ ‘brass’ etc.. and for that you must choose the color swatches that are not very “pretty”….they can’t be…in order to fight “red tones” the brown needs to be ‘green’ based, not exactly a pleasing-to-the-eye color. 

I feel,  that is where a lot of the problems stem from with both Crib Colorists & Stylists getting the end hair color  > wrong. So I will just keep trying to explain it in different ways – hoping everyone will continue to read it. What I discovered when I  learned cosmetic chemistry – was – to just keep reading the part I didn’t understand over and over -  I swear it will sink in, I know that because a whole lot of Crib Colorists have been born from that exact method. Repetition breeds comprehension, is my line.
And lastly we have Wella’s RED’s which is pretty much a straighter shooter:

Wella KP 2010 chart165

I use and love every red on this page, Wella is famous for having the best “reds” in the business, and I agree whole heartedly. They are all beautiful. The categories of red are:
  • R -- Red
  • GR – Gold/Red
  • RG -- Red/Gold
Which ever letter is ‘first’ is the more predominant color in the tube. I mean to me a GR and an RG are completely different. I almost always will use the R and RG categories – because of my dislike for “gold” in most heads of hair. The reason I don’t like Gold? Clients don’t like it, its not really flattering to anyone’s skin or eyes either.

Wella came out with this new technology a few years back, for their “RED” colors calling it: “INNOVATIVE  REDVOLUTION”:  meaning their red shades contain a 5 sided molecular structure that reflects red light and provides a deeper and more dense penetration of color into hair structure. As usual I didn’t believe it at first, but once I began using it, they were pretty right-on. Don’t go too much on the EXACT colors you see on these charts here, if your computer monitor isn’t set to the exact same numbers as mine is – well its not going to look the same

But I am so glad to bring these all to you, so you may have the complete picture of colors offered.

 Happy NEW YEAR!
Killer Chemist
January 1, 2016

New Years SALE Sunday & Monday, January 3 & 4 ! PLUS "May The Glitter Be With You" - Triple Infusion of microglitter in BURST

 A Cool little New Years Sale for those of you in need of some great hair products, Skin Oils, and Hair Color in specific Colors. 

They will all be  35%OFF   
All products in these lines:
- Schwarzkopf Colour Mousse
- Remaining Sale hair colors

CODE: NewYear35

January 3 & 4th!


We have a beautiful new addition to our wonderful BOOST & BURST team. 

Along with the BURST SPARKLE we have had for a while, this version has triple the infusion of micro-glitter. We have found this works well if you can get away without blow drying your hair. Also we have found with certain

Makes sense right? Using 100 mile an hour wind - close-up, from a blow-dryer on the hair is for sure, going to blow the teeny tiny micro-glitter off. But it sure looks cool if you can get away with it. I found when I used it and twisted my hair into the beachy waves look I talk about in one of my Posts, it works great!

Then there is a second way it works wonderfully... if you don't have coarse hair, coarse is the hair that is super thick. . .  it takes holding the curling iron on it for 3 minutes and it still barely holds the curl !.....so if you don't have that then you are also a great candidate for the  "force-be-with-you SHOT OF GLITTER" ! !  


 Happy New Hair to all of you