January 5, 2016

Part 2 : Difference In Professional Hair Color + Public Color ? - Description of Koleston Perfect & Quality Hair Color !

Difference in Pro Hair Color 
& Public Hair Color?

NOTHING Secretive that's for sure !  

. . . . . . .  its the ''Quality'' of the Color 

& the QUALITY of the Developer ! !

and that’s it. . . . . . there are no tricks and no secret information Hair Stylists have or receive -- as they make you feel like, which took a long time for me to come to terms with...a LONG LONG Time ! Yes we received an education, but if you didn't pay attention in school most likely you will pass your State BOARD TEST ! ! !

The article below is the original one with some updates to it AND, the answer to the same question I receive over and over ...... In regards to MY EXPLANATION REGARDING THE DIFFERENCE's BETWEEN the QUALITY issue between PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR and PUBLIC HAIR COLOR ??

WHY DO YOU THINK THEY WOULD GO TO ALL THAT TROUBLE OF HIDING IT of not making professional hair color available to the public for all these years?   Like in Europe you can purchase Wella's hair color's at the local drug store but they are made like the lower quality level we have here, which is called Color Perfect and Color Charm (Sally's Wella's colors).

I have explained in non ending explanations about how the ingredients in each of the hair color lines made available to the Hair Stylists who have spent 1-4 years training, & giving them a State Board issued test that certifies each of us as to whether or not we deserve to purchase "professional hair color at wholesale prices". This system has been within our government since hair color and hair stylists were born. Every year I receive a bill for $66.00/ for my yearly dues. In California we have the most hair stylist licenses in the USA given out, it is over 1 million. I often wonder why we never hear of where the money from every state's Cosmetology Board goes to ? ? ? I know its not Billions but money doesn't have to be "billions" to be "a-Lot " ! Imagine if you added every state's Board's money up.... that would be in the billions and that is each and every year. I mean who came up with this idea of having the top quality - high-end....LUXURY hair color ONLY to be made available to the Professional Stylists.
I go on and off ...........about thinking about,  whether its a good idea or not?!?!

People write me over and over and I would like to put the question to rest, with this....
They, I guess, either go grasp a professional color and grasp a Sally's brand of color. They see ''like'' ingredients in both, so they think my theory is debunked !  

But, that is not at all what I am referring to. Remember I spent nearly 3 years making hair conditioners, Lotions, Lip gloss, make-up, shampoos, color shampoos & conditioners a very long time ago!  I learned all of this fantastic information from a famous cosmetic chemist who used to have a weekly online education forum that many of us who are super serious about "HOW" our personal care products are made, learned & studied under. I tore apart formula's and learned from the bottom on up...how to make these products, all the way to how they MUST BE LABELLED FOR FDA APPROVAL!

I learned that as long as there was 1 gram of any ingredient in a product...you were allowed to apply it's name to your ingredient list on the rear label.. 1 gram is less than a tear drop, wwwwwway less. Which means if one company has Rose Hips Seed Oil in their Dry hair oil at 38% (like we do in Gleam) and another has 1/2 Gram - the product will not only be nothing like GLEAM, if you add products like silicone's ( that are now hidden under all sorts of weird name's) to that "Duplicate" product it will take that 1 Gram of Rose Hips Seed OIl and mess up all its dynamic qualities. 

Plus, 1st of all . . . .You cannot tell me you can find 2 products made by 2 separate Large corporate competing company's that have the EXACT same ingredient List. There are so many elements. Look at the developers their are luxury developers and cheap developers so when thos are mixed with lousy brand of hair color you really don't have a chance. 

You MUST MUST MUST try to spend as much as possible using top quality hair products...do your research, become educated in the world of hair. As far as I've seen every single one of you . . . .LOVE'S YOUR HAIR  ! !  !!
Applying the color to the hair through a bottle or the more proper method of, a tint bowl and a brush is about the only other major difference, I think there is. Using a Tint brush you can apply pressure to the strands which forces the hair color into the strands and produces a more ''even'' color , in my humble opinion. Every top Colorist in the world uses the Tint brush method for that reason. 

Procedures change in the hair color world for a reason. 
Usually that reason is -“THEY  FIGURED OUT THEY WORK MUCH BETTER ! "

For those of you who are brunette's I notice this color line never sells and it is one of the most used brunettes I used when I did hair, so PLEASE PLEASE consider the Brown Red-Violet hair color line series, mixed with a Neutral -- you will have the hottest brunette in the world.   it is Gorgeous!

The BRV Series which you see here is a Brown-Red-Violet… a gorgeous warm brown, I wouldn’t say the Red-Violet is anything monumental just very subdued – perfect – these are all amazing colors, if you want more of a jolt of either the red or the violet you would use this as the base of your formula.
Lets say you want a Level 6 BRV as your “desired color”, with more of a jolt of Violet to it than just this mellow version they give you.     
I would use:  1 ounce of 7BRV ( because of how dark the colors run) 
+ 1/2 ounce of 0/66VV (violet booster) =
most likely with 20 Volume ( must answer the Killer 8 to know that)

 Wella KP 2010 chart166
Now on the other hand if you basically wanted a nice Level 5 BRV but with a little punch more of RED
I would choose a Base of
6BRV - 1 ounce ( we called this color Heather for years)
 and then add to 6BRV
+1/2 ounce to 1 ounce of  6/45 – 6RRV.
Both of these colors have a corresponding color in Color Touch, which is what is so easy to use to refresh the ends. 

Back when my hair was miraculously groomed, I would always refresh my lengths 2 weeks after the main color. Which is exactly what all those celebrities with their never-ending gorgeous looking hair do. . . I would show up at their door with my entire mobile hair color silver metal Case ( its made to hold rifles, but worked great for my ‘traveling color business’ which was a large part of my business just before my diagnosis . We all know reds fade quicker than any other color…but using them in this manner with BROWN as the main hue, that problem won’t be an issue.  

I know it might seem odd to you but I really want to try to get through to everyone, that when you are planning your formula for your next hair color or any hair color for that matter…the idea is not to pick out the color you want from hair color swatches. The idea is to pick colors that will counter the problems you are having…. say if your DURP is brassy, yet you want a pleasant – more mellow – GOLD……..you do not pick colors from the GOLD page of the chart. That would be disastrous.
I would choose “N” series if the brass isn’t too bad if it is then I would pick a color from either the /71 BA series ( Brown Ash)- which is my most used category, it fights most issues and turns out beautiful browns. Also the next page which is the /07 NB series – which stands for NEUTRAL BROWN...awesome colors that fight most common issues the NB series...Neutral Brown a very straight-up Brown – the Frosty Brown collection.

Wella KP 2010 chart163

This Series came out right about the same time the /71 BA series came out - - everyone was thrilled as they had finally put in 1 tube what every person I know was making. I mean mixing > 1/2 ounce of 8N and 1/2 ounce of 8 B
= makes 8NB.
Which was one of my most commonly used combo’s.
Another great brown?
7N  + 7A + 7 M + 7B  = 7BAMN………..awesome and it covers gray wonderfully if needed, or the color in general is superb. No need to switch it up for non-gray or Gray. Just a good-to-know straight-up-Bombshell BROWN  . . . just trying to show you how to formulate not using the prettiest hair color swatches. 

At my stations in the Salon - these color swatch boards were prohibited. If you don’t understand how they are made and how the Level system works then they are really pointless.  The way to get clients hair the exact right color they want is by using colors that fight the hairs objectionable tendencies, such as ‘reds’-‘oranges’ ‘brass’ etc.. and for that you must choose the color swatches that are not very “pretty”….they can’t be…in order to fight “red tones” the brown needs to be ‘green’ based, not exactly a pleasing-to-the-eye color. 

I feel,  that is where a lot of the problems stem from with both Crib Colorists & Stylists getting the end hair color  > wrong. So I will just keep trying to explain it in different ways – hoping everyone will continue to read it. What I discovered when I  learned cosmetic chemistry – was – to just keep reading the part I didn’t understand over and over -  I swear it will sink in, I know that because a whole lot of Crib Colorists have been born from that exact method. Repetition breeds comprehension, is my line.
And lastly we have Wella’s RED’s which is pretty much a straighter shooter:

Wella KP 2010 chart165

I use and love every red on this page, Wella is famous for having the best “reds” in the business, and I agree whole heartedly. They are all beautiful. The categories of red are:
  • R -- Red
  • GR – Gold/Red
  • RG -- Red/Gold
Which ever letter is ‘first’ is the more predominant color in the tube. I mean to me a GR and an RG are completely different. I almost always will use the R and RG categories – because of my dislike for “gold” in most heads of hair. The reason I don’t like Gold? Clients don’t like it, its not really flattering to anyone’s skin or eyes either.

Wella came out with this new technology a few years back, for their “RED” colors calling it: “INNOVATIVE  REDVOLUTION”:  meaning their red shades contain a 5 sided molecular structure that reflects red light and provides a deeper and more dense penetration of color into hair structure. As usual I didn’t believe it at first, but once I began using it, they were pretty right-on. Don’t go too much on the EXACT colors you see on these charts here, if your computer monitor isn’t set to the exact same numbers as mine is – well its not going to look the same

But I am so glad to bring these all to you, so you may have the complete picture of colors offered.

 Happy NEW YEAR!
Killer Chemist
7 comments on "Part 2 : Difference In Professional Hair Color + Public Color ? - Description of Koleston Perfect & Quality Hair Color !"
  1. Hi KC...I just have to give my absolute appreciation and respect for you. The knowledge that you share with us is invaluable. I am a hairdresser and you are in my top 10 for education and inspiration. You pour out yur heart to us...you are a rare gem. THANK YOU

  2. Thank you for that, my dear

    See everyone there are... confidant, appreciative, and willing-to-learn hair stylists
    out there....

    I know they are hard to find.

    But look............

    we just found one here!

  3. Hi there...

    I have a question please:

    isn't dying your hair bad for it? Especially if you have thinning/weak hair?

    Is there an organic product for hair dying?

  4. Hi KC! I had a few (hundred) questions and couldn't find an email address on your site. I am REALLY hoping you can help me. Thank you so much for your time!

    I will try to be as brief as possible. I only found your awesome blog about a week ago, after I had bought ColorFix to remove the black dye from my hair (will NEVER do black ever again). I have colored my hair off and on for years. Well I am in the choir at my church for Easter and was in a hurry to fix this. Anyway, the ColorFix seemed like it removed the black the first time, and I was happy with the color- but used it again a couple days ago to be sure. It removed a bit more and I loved the color, but my roots are a really obnoxious orange. I expected this, and was jut happy to be rid of the black. I bought Wella Color Charm at Sally, plus 40 volume developer thinking that would surely do the trick. The color I bought was a few shades lighter than I actually wanted.

    Well I tried doing a test strand today and after 45 minutes, there was no change. I rinsed and tried again, this time for 75 minutes. No change on the bottom portion of the hair AT ALL, and the roots are a horrible, extremely brassy orange. I have tons of red undertones in my hair, so the color I bought was Natural- Very Light Blonde (#911/9N). I was doing the Shampoo Train last week and used Wella In-Depth every single time, so my hair feels awesome, but looks terrible- at the roots anyway.

    With only a little over a week before I have to be in front of a bunch of people and a shortage of funds, I don't know what to do. I thought I was doing everything right (you know, AFTER the screw-up of even using black dye). Does it maybe sound like I just don't have all of the old color out? At this point, if there were a simple way I could just cover the roots without screwing up further, I would do that- but I'm afraid it's not that easy. My husband is getting frightened every time I say I have to go to the beauty supply being this is costing more than I ever expected. ;)

    I would greatly appreciate ANY help you can offer. Even if it's just a quick fix to get me through Easter, then I can deal with it later. :) Thank you SO much for your time!!

  5. Hi there killer chemist. Your blog is a big help for me and for others. I have an important question to make and I hope you can give me an answer.
    I have a friend whos practicaly messed up her hair color by using so many brands. What she was trying to achieve was to have brown-red color but not dark level.
    Now she wants me to fix it, how can I lighten it up for her litle bit? Please help me so I can help her. Thank you.

  6. Melody, if you would have just joined our group - right from the beginning - you would have been helped by one of my well-trained assistants, and had your answer.

    These big-ass questions just are too big, if I answered those for everyone that has that same exact problem dozens of times every single day, week, month of the year ? ? ? - well,

    I would have to close the store. Then I'm no help to anyone.
    Am I ?

    We have a system here and it really works quite well . . we are a fast growing trinity of sights. Although each are their separate entities, in spirit we are all one.
    We are not a home for quick fixes. As you can see most of what you did was wrong, and the onll way you will learn this is to begin reading all the POSTS on hair color removal and Crib Colorist..
    Hair Color.
    Its much too much to give you a few sentences - and hope you "get it"....
    so please google: GOOGLE GROUPS / Killer Strands.......
    Follow the directions and u will be on your way to Killer Hair.
    We'd love to have you,

  7. Wella does have the best reds I think it's that amazing P5 Molecule that reflects pure red light! Great blog glad I found you. It's always wonderful to here and share knowledge from one professional to another.
    Thank you,



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