January 29, 2012

Color Your Hair Correctly: By Answering The Following 'Killer 10' Questions

The TRUTHFUL answers to these questions....will give YOU, the beginnings to a beautiful head of hair !
The Killer 10 Questions
Just today I had one of our newbies ask about the Killer8 and which questions they were to answer. For months I have been wanting to revamp them to the KILLER10 as the last 2 questions truly are imperative for a proper answer. 

We are looking for a New employee here at Killerstrands....if any of you are in the area (I'm always surprised that we have a teeny amount of Californians, for unknown reasons )

The Killer 10:
  1.  Do you have previous haircolor on your hair? Which includes : Crazy Colors, Henna,Temporary or any form of altering to the hair. This is the most important question and all of you need to dig down and be 100% honest to yourself. I had many a person be dishonest, that sat in my chair. If you are not honest the results will be horrendous. I never realized this until I was IN THE SALON and have this happen a LOT! Then they blame you! I finally got enough experience under my belt....to be able to pick out when they were fibbing! It was a terrible position to be put in. Be honest to me & honest to yourself.
  2. The Hair on a persons Head, is one of the most treasured items on a persons body...as a Colorist/Stylist it is your job to care for it truthfully and sometimes it takes a painfully honest method to care for it so they ARE happy, secure, & pleased when you are finished.
  3. (V) What is your VIRGIN (God-given) hair color level & tone ? 
  4. (I)  What IS your present Hair Color level & Tone ? 
  5. (D) What is your DESIRED hair color Level & Tone ? ...when we ask for the VID answers
  6. What is your percentage of Gray? Is it Resistant? ( which means is it stubborn to hold hair color) 
  7. What is your DURP? Slight to Strong....DOMINANT... UNDERLYING.... REMAINING... PIGMENT analyze what each one of those words mean – one-at-a-time. It is an acronym and needs to be analyzed word by word ?? The most common? Is Brass....but there are many other colors..
  8. What is your texture? 
  9. What is the Porosity? Along with the Condition ??, many times the two of them go hand in hand….be clear on both, please 
  10. What is your length and thickness?

#??.) Please point out if you have a darker tint on top of either all-over highlights or all-over bleach & tone blond??? ... an important piece of info that MUST be pointed out when asking for help within Group.- - -  which really goes with Question #1

**** I will try to post this once per month so its easier to find.

But I encourage everyone to begin trial and error on the "SEARCHING" techniques on BLOGGER. They are run by GOOGLE so very "User-Friendly" and find things very well on the BLOG...Remember this BLOG is 4 years old, I used to be healthier so could do DEMO's and would write a lot more frequently, it has become more difficult for me in the last 6 months to write Posts, I want you to know I try my hardest.
At that point you will then know the base color if it is not clearly marked in the Swatch Book as most Swatch Books do not clearly define a hair-color's true base color, which I feel is because the chemists that design the hair color do not truly understand how to properly color human hair strands. What they do understand is how to make hair color. That is the HUGE gap in the world of hair color
Which is why if you stick with me, you will finally have found that person that closes that gap between Chemist and Colorist 
Killer Chemist
January 20, 2012

America's Newest Haircare Lines Chosen Exclusively by KC for Killerstranders!

Well, its a new year and I am on a mission now.....I got a tad lazy and now that I have more help... I can go back to searching out 'new' products to bring to you. When I look for new lines, I always comb the "ingredient list" of every product to be sure they pass "my" requirements for a product to be carried by Killerstrands. I was so busy with keeping up with employees, I lost sight of caring for the KS product lines. We have gotten some new help that is assisting me so wonderfully ... that now I can get back to carrying a 100% properly formulated quality line of shampoos, conditioners, styling products and conditioners. To date....we have found a minimum of 12 entirely NEW product lines that we will be bringing into the store, over the next couple months. We all are very excited at Killerstrands home office for this new and innovative update we are making to our Store & Blog.

For our very 1st ""NEW" line we are introducing the Sojourn line - a Hi Quality line of hair products that we sought out because of their commitment to using only hi quality, and SLS-free ingredients. You cannot imagine the surprise when I discovered this line was created by Elan Sassoon, son of hair legend Vidal Sassoon and many others that were involved in the Creative whirl-wind of Sassoon. This entire line boasts what they are most proud of is ... what is "NOT IN" the products !  NO: sulfates, alcohol, gluten...etc...etc...

 Also - - FINALLY a line that states its pH Level right on the bottle, its something SOOO easy (yet important), "if" you have the proper pH stated inside that bottle . Why does pH of a hair product matter? Your hair reacts and acts correctly if the pH of any hair products is within the 4.5 - 5.5 level area( natural)... The entire line is right there. It really is not that tricky to make a dynamite line of hair products "if" you follow a some simple rules. SOJOURN has accomplished that and we are thrilled to introduce the 1st of our 12 new lines.

You will NOT be disappointed......

 Thank you soooo much for being a Killerstrander and following our Blog, Store and Group.....

Killer Chemist

January 5, 2012

There Is Something About Hair Products You Must Pay AttentionTo...

I try hard in life NOT TO BE A NEGATIVE person,
I promise I do,
I am hoping it doesn't seem like the opposite to the Killerstranders Gang

Like in any field there is the "behind the scenes" stories and then what is on 'the surface'.... What I am doing for Killerstranders is giving you the "behind-the-scenes" from the hair industry.
If it affects the health of your hair, then I feel it is YOUR BUSINESS

The large hair manufacturing companies may not believe that is the case, but that is why the INTERNET was invented, wasn't it? In America we have many organizations regulating all sorts of things the IRS, the FTB, the NRA, Social Security, and on and on.

As I am sure you have seen, the War on Terror which is supposed to be at the forefront is lagging so poorly we cannot even get "Homeland Security" to do their job efficiently, so regulating and keeping an eye on Hair and Beauty products seems rather insignificant in comparison when you think about it.

First of all, what is the name of the industry that regulates hair and beauty products?

Do we all know? Guess.......
Got it ??????????
The United Beauty Administration ???????
In the good ole US of A its what's called > the FOOD & DRUG Administration. The FDA.
Wow, but where are the words beauty or hair or health???

NOWHERE to be found.....why?
So the Food industry regulates hair and beauty????...........or better yet..........the DRUG industry????....you mean medicines-prescriptions and shit???

YEP! That's them.....
What could either Category have to do with the beauty industry??
They are the ones that are regulating beauty products?
More specifically > Hair products?
YEP, boys & girls,yep!
How?...................Why? ..................Are you kidding?.........................Nope!
So that is your first blow and the first HUGE HUGE mistake .

Basically there is no one regulating the hair industry.

If any industry is watched it is Skin Care and that is ONLY because the "drug" industry does NOT WANT any skin care products DIPPING into the "Drug" ARENA ...AT ALL. You should see the big wall and restrictions they have put up to PREVENT that from happening.

The FDA would have to bring home all the troops from Iraq to enforce the rules they have "JUST FOR THE SKIN CARE PRODUCTS to be enforced!!
So you can forget the hair Industry following any rules AT ALL!
Exactly "where' does "hair" fit in to either FOOD or DRUGS?
Absolutely NOWHERE
So basically the hair industry gets away with murder, I envision Hair CEO'S laughing all the way to the bank

I can see them at their meetings, planning their stategies and just laughing at the fact that no one will even be checking on the way they execute their next plan,
& what a breeze this industry is....FA LA LA LA LA

For example, and the reason for this post......
about 6-7 years ago?? I forget 'when' exactly, the new big thing was to have shampoo that was "COLOR-Safe". 

Remember, when that first hit? Coloring hair had become such a huge HUGE industry and those of us that cared about our clients color "lasting" sent them out in search for "COLOR-SAFE" shampoos. There were those nim-rod Stylists that felt if their clients "didn't" use a color-safe shampoo then they would have to return for more frequent visits (help).
Now if you had Cosmetic Chemistry training...or had conducted your own tests then you knew that the ingredient that was the enemy was the "sulfates" SLS/ALS or any of the cousins.

But what the executives at L'Oreal....& many of the drug store shampoos {whose sales by the way are in the 'Billions" of dollars range} did was >>

> they simply stamped "COLOR- SAFE "on the bottle of the same shampoo !
They did not change the formula...
not one change....not one alteration.........NOTHING!

I don't know, but I would imagine they didn't even think twice about it

The really horrible part?
They are perfectly legal doing it
--- legal 'yes'
--- morally ???

Do most of you think they probably laughed all the way to the bank? Or am I being mean spirited? I figured this out about 8 years ago when I delved into the world of Cosmetic Chemistry.
Before that, our worlds did NOT collide

{Chemists don't get along with Stylists
Stylists don't get a long with Chemists
Hair Product manufacturer CEO's don't get along with Chemists or Stylists

Then a Trichologist ( which we do NOT HAVE HERE in the USA, and I sure wish we did) is a whole other rock to throw into the spokes of the turning wheel of HAIR + Hair Health + Hair Colour.
Even though we have no Trichology training here in the USA, I am prepared to take the TEST when we do.
Which is what I mean about how they sit at their meetings just rubbing their hands at how they are 'allowed' to get away with MURDER because NO ONE IS WATCHING and there are no rules in place.

There could be battery acid in those bottles and technically they could NOT get in trouble for that. We have no regulations as to "what" a shampoo is,

what a conditioner "is" what's in them what can be,
what cannot be

Can you believe that in this day and age?
The Europeans have a whole entity set up regulating this industry.

I'm the last person to OVER-regulate things - I swear, but in this instance it makes my neck hairs curl!
What those cheap brands use as their ingredients...is discussed heavily and often in our trade magazines for Cosmetic Chemists.
My vision of this industry changed so much once I got the education as a cosmetic chemist, enlightened my whole world into "HOW products are made"... and what each and every ingredient "IS"
It was a wonderful addition to the education and knowledge I already had.

Please, every time one of those hair commercials comes on..........be VERY very careful....what you get out of them...

So - at least - I got this subject off my chest..... remember it...every time you pick up any hair or skin product....you MUST begin to learn to protect yourself, you must begin to pay attention to ingredients in cosmetics/hair products the same way you do in food.
It will seem hard at first, jot down the names of chemicals you have heard to be bad... just keep reading and paying attention.... because no one is doing it for you.