May 26, 2014

The Color & Cut Of The Year. . . .There Is Never One

Every . . . once in a while . . . I come 
across a beautiful Hair CUT




these are just so beautiful and proper and unique for the times.....It just HAS to be the goal and vision for many people.

Join our Killer Hair Group : KC, runs it like a school almost, you must answer the Killer15 questions, post photos of your self, so that she is NOT A BLIND HAIR COLORIST, will help you in the path top healthy hair and even to achieve this cut and color if you would Like ? 
May 20, 2014

Developer, Developer.......: Which Hair Color Developer Shall We Use???

Developer has always taken a 2nd seat to its big brother HAIR COLOR in this whole process, when actually it is just AS important as! 

I wanted to add a little something to this previous post....a lot of you think that 40 Volume is stronger than 20 Volume .If you look at the ingredient label on a 10 Volume and on a 40 Volume they both will say the exact same thing : H2O2 or hydrogen Peroxide. What is different in these various developers is "time" not strength. To explain that further check this next section out :
10Volume - 1/2 Level  LIFT
20Volume - 1 Level.....LIFT
30 Volume - 2-3 Levels LIFT
40 Volume - 3-4 Levels LIFT

the Volume doesn't stand for strength it stands for time.........
Do you cook? or bake?
you know how you make a dinner and try to have everything done at the same time so you can all sit down to a meal at 1 time and eat ? Its sort of that same theory....

That's kind of what various developers are for.......
When I start a head of highlights (for example) I will begin using lightener with 20 Volume half way through I will make up another batch of lightener and developer only this one will have 30 or most times 40 Volume and do the remaining hair with that) - that will make it so when we go to the shampoo bowl and rinse the color out ALL THE COLOR WILL BE EVEN, many times Colorists won't do that and YOU end up with 2 different colors .Its not that 40-Volume is stronger - its "TIME" based 40 volume works twice as fast in minutes not in strength. Don't be afraid to use the proper developer, when you do your hair color will come out more correctly. 

I cannot say it enough when you are trying to perfect your formula : STRAND TEST ! Never test a formula on your entire head of hair when it is so easy to do strand tests. We even make Kits, if you purchase over $50.00 you may request 1-2 complimentary Kits !

Educating you how to color hair Professionally, learning to deal with developers is very important as it is the key to perfect & even color, color that lasts a long time and most importantly gives you the exact color you desire with no DURP ! It can be done and it can be done when you learn how to deal with H2O2

There are many things that effect which developer one should use and I will write on it until I feel I have covered it enough for you. Please ask questions here or join our group if you plan on becoming a customer of our store.( We carry a super wide variety of Developers BECAUSE I feel they are so very important.) 

5 years ago there were 4 developer strengths: 
  1. 10 Volume 
  2. 20 Volume
  3. 30 Volume
  4. 40 Volume
This is what we have now:
  1. 3 Volume
  2. 5 Volume
  3. 6 Volume
  4. 7 Volume
  5. 9 Volume
  6. 10 Volume
  7. 13 Volume
  8. 15 Volume
  9. 17 Volume
  10. 20 Volume
  11. 25 Volume
  12. 30 Volume
  13. 40 Volume
  14. 50 Volume...............and now we carry the "Violet Tinted Developers (to prevent Brass, Blorange & Gold in Blonde's!) in 3 levels
  15. 20 Volume/violet
  16. 30 Volume/violet
  17. 40 Volume/violet
I will say that I do enjoy having that selection now as it now handles everything and anything a Colorist could want to do. I have no problem using different brand developers with different hair color's, I suppose it is a personal selection as to which way you go but...I prefer the most moisturized, many have oils in them now...seems like someone has been listening to my ideas. Or maybe its just a dream. ! ! !
Hair texture is determined by the diameter of the individual hair strand. Large,medium, and small diameter hair strands translate into coarse, medium and fine hair textures, respectively. Melanin is distributed differently within the different textures. The melanin granules in fine hair are grouped more tightly, so the hair takes color faster and can look darker. Medium textured hair has an average response to hair color product and finally coarse-textured hair has a larger diameter and can take longer to process. 

FINE HAIR: takes color faster
MEDIUM HAIR: takes color at an average amount of time
COARSE HAIR: takes longer to penetrate so therefore color's slower 

DENSITY............Another aspect that plays a role in hair coloring/developer, you must remember is density, which is the numbers of hair per square inch......... which can range from thick to thin. Density matters as it affects 'coverage'. If your hair is dense that means it is difficult for that liquid (hair color & developer combined) to weave its way through the individual hairs. 

Remember all our recent conversations about using a Tint Brush versus a Bottle?  { WELL THIS IS EXACTLY THE REASON FOR THAT ! }. Dense hair needs a brush,ALWAYS. other wise there will be uneven waves of color throughout the hair - make sense??!. 

You would always want to use the lowest Volume of Developer possible [ that works for your particular procedure of course...] and there are "lighter or more liquidy developers which I would suggest to use - - if you do have dense hair. For those with average to thin hair I still would advise to use the developer with the most conditioners, the most moisturizers ,etc.. as possible - use our new SPRUSH. they really are worth it.

Porosity is the ability to absorb liquid, porous hair accepts hair color faster and permits darker color than less porous hair. There are different degrees of porosity.....

low porosity: the cuticle is tight>the hair is resistant. which means it is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate & requires a longer processing time. an example of resistant hair ? Gray hair.
average porosity: cuticle is slightly raised, hair is normal and processes in average time.
high porosity: cuticle is lifted;hair is over porous and the hair takes color very quickly <> color also fades quickly

So this is the beginning of an in depth study on developers ( although you can only go so far)...............but see what is funny this graphic below was made 7 years ago and that was the total extent of developer Volumes we carried   ! ! ! !

More coming on this

May 7, 2014

1 Trick I Think I Have Forgotten To Mention In All These Years . . . .

Immediately after you 
color your hair . . .  . . . . . . what do you do?

 You apply a pH balanced conditioner

... the pH of Coloring products ranges from 8 - 9.5 .... so always use a pH balanced conditioner like INTENSIVE  to restore the natural pH of 4.5-5.5 to the hair. 

 The benefits being?????
  • it closes the cuticle
  • restores the pH balance to the hair AND 
  • will help to prevent moisture loss and
  • prevent Color fade

and the most important fact is......................






zero shampoo 
and i just figured out
 i don't think 
i have ever said this

 ;( KC
May 4, 2014

Ratio - Ratio - Who's Got The PROPER Ratio........... of Developer to Haircolor

The Ratio of Developer to hair color is very VERY important and in all this time and in all these Posts I have never stressed the importance of this. That and the way in which you WEIGH your color & developer is also important.


When we all line up and make our Oil Bleach Kits we are making a zillion and one of them. At one point we decided to test iweighed 4 ounces of developer versus 4oz, weigh in a measuring cup. It really is pretty far off. But we send those measuring cups for those who are going to just 'guess'. What we discovered is 4oz. measured in the Cup is 3.6 ounces on the scale. So if you absolutely refuse to get a scale you can make thaty adjustment on your own. The color has been tested over and over at the ratio they give you.

For example in Wella:
  • Color Touch Demi-Permanent is 1:2
  • Koleston Perfect - Permanent, is 1:1.. although all Level 11 & 12 colors are 1:2
  • Illumina is 1:1.5
It is SOOOOO important to get the ratio of developer to color correct. If you ever change lines of color ALWAS read the instruction sheet or the insturctions are printed on the inside of the box for Professional hair color

 Schwarzkopf, the line has the most beautiful colors I have seen in many years, their ratio is 1: 1 and I find many people don't use that ratio which will not let the color do what it was designed to do. 

When using Highlift Level 12 Colors use "double 40" or for every 1 ounce of color you need to use 2 ounces of 40 Volume Or it won't lift high enough.