May 20, 2014

Developer, Developer.......: Which Hair Color Developer Shall We Use???

Developer has always taken a 2nd seat to its big brother HAIR COLOR in this whole process, when actually it is just AS important as! 

I wanted to add a little something to this previous post....a lot of you think that 40 Volume is stronger than 20 Volume .If you look at the ingredient label on a 10 Volume and on a 40 Volume they both will say the exact same thing : H2O2 or hydrogen Peroxide. What is different in these various developers is "time" not strength. To explain that further check this next section out :
10Volume - 1/2 Level  LIFT
20Volume - 1 Level.....LIFT
30 Volume - 2-3 Levels LIFT
40 Volume - 3-4 Levels LIFT

the Volume doesn't stand for strength it stands for time.........
Do you cook? or bake?
you know how you make a dinner and try to have everything done at the same time so you can all sit down to a meal at 1 time and eat ? Its sort of that same theory....

That's kind of what various developers are for.......
When I start a head of highlights (for example) I will begin using lightener with 20 Volume half way through I will make up another batch of lightener and developer only this one will have 30 or most times 40 Volume and do the remaining hair with that) - that will make it so when we go to the shampoo bowl and rinse the color out ALL THE COLOR WILL BE EVEN, many times Colorists won't do that and YOU end up with 2 different colors .Its not that 40-Volume is stronger - its "TIME" based 40 volume works twice as fast in minutes not in strength. Don't be afraid to use the proper developer, when you do your hair color will come out more correctly. 

I cannot say it enough when you are trying to perfect your formula : STRAND TEST ! Never test a formula on your entire head of hair when it is so easy to do strand tests. We even make Kits, if you purchase over $50.00 you may request 1-2 complimentary Kits !

Educating you how to color hair Professionally, learning to deal with developers is very important as it is the key to perfect & even color, color that lasts a long time and most importantly gives you the exact color you desire with no DURP ! It can be done and it can be done when you learn how to deal with H2O2

There are many things that effect which developer one should use and I will write on it until I feel I have covered it enough for you. Please ask questions here or join our group if you plan on becoming a customer of our store.( We carry a super wide variety of Developers BECAUSE I feel they are so very important.) 

5 years ago there were 4 developer strengths: 
  1. 10 Volume 
  2. 20 Volume
  3. 30 Volume
  4. 40 Volume
This is what we have now:
  1. 3 Volume
  2. 5 Volume
  3. 6 Volume
  4. 7 Volume
  5. 9 Volume
  6. 10 Volume
  7. 13 Volume
  8. 15 Volume
  9. 17 Volume
  10. 20 Volume
  11. 25 Volume
  12. 30 Volume
  13. 40 Volume
  14. 50 Volume...............and now we carry the "Violet Tinted Developers (to prevent Brass, Blorange & Gold in Blonde's!) in 3 levels
  15. 20 Volume/violet
  16. 30 Volume/violet
  17. 40 Volume/violet
I will say that I do enjoy having that selection now as it now handles everything and anything a Colorist could want to do. I have no problem using different brand developers with different hair color's, I suppose it is a personal selection as to which way you go but...I prefer the most moisturized, many have oils in them now...seems like someone has been listening to my ideas. Or maybe its just a dream. ! ! !
Hair texture is determined by the diameter of the individual hair strand. Large,medium, and small diameter hair strands translate into coarse, medium and fine hair textures, respectively. Melanin is distributed differently within the different textures. The melanin granules in fine hair are grouped more tightly, so the hair takes color faster and can look darker. Medium textured hair has an average response to hair color product and finally coarse-textured hair has a larger diameter and can take longer to process. 

FINE HAIR: takes color faster
MEDIUM HAIR: takes color at an average amount of time
COARSE HAIR: takes longer to penetrate so therefore color's slower 

DENSITY............Another aspect that plays a role in hair coloring/developer, you must remember is density, which is the numbers of hair per square inch......... which can range from thick to thin. Density matters as it affects 'coverage'. If your hair is dense that means it is difficult for that liquid (hair color & developer combined) to weave its way through the individual hairs. 

Remember all our recent conversations about using a Tint Brush versus a Bottle?  { WELL THIS IS EXACTLY THE REASON FOR THAT ! }. Dense hair needs a brush,ALWAYS. other wise there will be uneven waves of color throughout the hair - make sense??!. 

You would always want to use the lowest Volume of Developer possible [ that works for your particular procedure of course...] and there are "lighter or more liquidy developers which I would suggest to use - - if you do have dense hair. For those with average to thin hair I still would advise to use the developer with the most conditioners, the most moisturizers ,etc.. as possible - use our new SPRUSH. they really are worth it.

Porosity is the ability to absorb liquid, porous hair accepts hair color faster and permits darker color than less porous hair. There are different degrees of porosity.....

low porosity: the cuticle is tight>the hair is resistant. which means it is difficult for moisture or chemicals to penetrate & requires a longer processing time. an example of resistant hair ? Gray hair.
average porosity: cuticle is slightly raised, hair is normal and processes in average time.
high porosity: cuticle is lifted;hair is over porous and the hair takes color very quickly <> color also fades quickly

So this is the beginning of an in depth study on developers ( although you can only go so far)...............but see what is funny this graphic below was made 7 years ago and that was the total extent of developer Volumes we carried   ! ! ! !

More coming on this

54 comments on "Developer, Developer.......: Which Hair Color Developer Shall We Use???"
  1. Is the general rule of thumb that if you want the 8.1 shade hair colour as an end result, then you would have to dye your hair one shade higher in shade 9.1 to achieve that? Ash shades will darken the hair colour.

    I was also thinking of using 25 volume developer with the 9.1, do you think this will be ok on my medium brown hair? Thanks

  2. I wish hair color was that easy and you could just guess....but that is not how it works. I have developed a system that involves the Level System, which has been around for 60 years and to learn it would be the best thing one could do to help in your efforts to become a Crib Colorist.
    1) there are very few 'rules of thumb" in hair as much of this Blog as you possibly can
    2) read it again !
    3) Ash is a "tone" . Tones have nothing to do with lightening or darkening. They deal with canceling or enhancing Tonal looks in this type of a situation.
    4) Medium brown could mean any one of 5 browns to me, which makes a HHHHHUGE difference when deciding which developer one should use.
    5) I stress that you do more reading than you have done in order to completely understand which choice you should make and "why'' !
    In 2 weeks we will re-open the Killerstrands Group for those of you who need help with your formula's.

    If you would like to get on the waiting list please email a note with the Subject : GROUP WAITING LIST, then we will contact YOU, when it happens exactly

    ! Being in the group truly helps you understand ;)
    thanks, KC

    1. I did attempt to join the group and emailed as instructed, but several weeks & still no reply

  3. Which developers are "lighter and more liquidy"? I have very thick hair, but it's also baby fine. I know that's an unusual combination.

    1. Please see the post from October 5,2014 ;)

  4. I don't understand your explanation on developers. I am a colorist as well and developers have a lot to do with strength and time. There is no way you can use a 10 volume and leave it on for and hour and expect it to get the same results as if you used a 40 volume because a 40 volume has more STRENGTH . That's the reason why it works in minutes because it is STRONGER. There are various color methods to use to achieve an even color result. For example apply the 40 volume 3 to 4 inches from the scalp to ends then go back to get roots

  5. I have many different ways I try to explain the theory of H2O2 in this Blog, because I receive many emails about the subject and how people remain confused about it. So I try different ways of explaining it.

    "Volume" refers to the 'volume' of oxygen gas contained in one 'volume' of hydrogen peroxide.
    It's a measure of concentration.

    Each Volume corresponds with a percentage level as follows:

    Developer (Hydrogen Peroxide)

    Volume Percentage of what Developers Lifting Ability is :

    3% is (10Volume) which simply deposits
    6% (20 Volume) Lifts Up to 1 level
    9% (30 Volume) Lifts 2-3 Levels
    12%(40 Volume) Lifts Up to 3-4 levels........Memorize these - its easy

    Lower volumes of developer are used for minimal lift and toning techniques. Higher volumes are used when increased lifting of the natural pigment is desired.

    Hydrogen peroxide has '2' jobs in the hair-coloring process........... First, it reacts with the melanin, breaking down the natural pigment and lightening the hair....... which is referred to as 'lift'.
    Second, hydrogen peroxide develops oxidative dye molecules creating 'deposit' into the protein structure of the hair.......... I just still don't think of that as strength.
    If you do and it works for you, that's great.

    1. So how do we know how much amount of developer that is hydrogen peroxide in the hair dye is it related to the number given like 8.3 and all. How can we know the concentration levels of H2O2.

    2. The Hydrogen peroxide is a separate product. When you color hair you have 2 bottles (lets just say......although truly '1' is a TUBE and the other is a bottle of DEVELOPER).
      On the bottle of developer which you may choose any level {when coming up with your formula} you like.(you use certain developers to achieve certain result)it will say what "Volume" it is and what percentage of hydrogen peroxide.
      For example these are the most commonly used developers and their percentages of H2O2 in each:

      10Volume : 3% of H2O2
      20Volume : 6% of H2O2
      30Volume : 9% of H2O2
      40Volume : 12% of H2O2

      Sorry for Delay I receive hundreds of questions

  6. There are many things that EFFECT [should be AFFECT] which developer. formula's - should not have an apostrophe as it is plural not possessive.

    1. we are not in english class! I appreciate this bloggers help! Too bad people like you are so critical.

  7. I will try to remember that in the future...I try to research it, but then understand it less. Writing is very difficult for me,the grammar part... even harder ! Sorry, I will try to remember. I've always wanted someone to edit my posts. Do you need a small job?

    1. Regarding your interest in an editor, I myself am trained and hold several college degrees in advanced composition, medical transcription and editing. I would be more than happy to provide my credentials and services in exchange for the learning experience you provide in this blog. It is my personal belief that your blog could be organized and transformed into an ebook. In any case, I would love to help in any capacity.

  8. I have very dark brown hair and am covering grey roots... would I want to use 10 volume developer with the hair color so the roots don't get "lifted" at all... I think 20 volume is leaving me with reddish/slightly lighter roots...does that makes sense that it would be lifting the roots too much and not depositing enough color? I was thinking of trying 4N color with 10 volume developer to see if that was a better combo to cover grey roots (about 40% grey) What is a good starting time to do a strand test on the roots? I know I need to do a strand test but I am not sure how long to try. this will be my first time trying salon color at home. Thanks!

    1. I'm not trying to belittle anyone's advise, but do feel it's important to tell you what I will just say is my experience, so as not to offend anyone. The reason your roots are lifting lighter, while some will say it's your virgin (never been colored) hair, and while it is true that colored vs fresh hair can have an influence, the primary reason for your roots lifting more is that as crazy as it may sound, think of it as setting your cold drink on a hot dash board. It won't stay cold long! So just as laying next to someone when cold warms your body, hair at the scalp is warmer, and will lift faster than the rest. Some stylists use cooling at the roots to prevent this, more often others use heat all over to increase speed everywhere. As the other person mentioned 10 volume won't work with grays, this isn't exactly true, and it can depend greatly on the type of hair. African American, Asian, Fine, etc... it all makes a difference. Since we already know your roots lift quickly, then I would highly suggest (I know we want to do color when we get in those moods NOW) but if you can stand it, or before the next time, try this... First try using 10 volume developer, and keep an eye on your gray to see how long it takes for it to accept color. I think this will work well for you, and if it does you have the best way for your hairs health from now on. However the next thing to try if it doesn't do as you wish (or you can try this 1st if you have help and what I'd do if I was doing your hair, would be to use 10 or at the very most 15 volume developer on your roots, and then use 20 volume on the rest of your hair. So only mix 1/3 first if you have short hair, or 1 bottle for long hair for the roots, the other for the rest, etc... Anyway, good luck! Just be careful with color choice. Using a green base for example... or red on grays can have another set of issues but as long as your liking the color choice, keep right on going and enjoy. Good luck, and I hope this helps. Just happen to be of that age as are my closest friends, and couldn't not try to help:)

    2. I am posting this answer, because she put a lot of time into it. But personally I don't think it is near as complicated as she is making it.

      Like I said, more information is needed to give you a quick easy to understand answer. Like.... what is your :
      virgin color,
      your desired color,
      your DURP,
      your texture,
      your length
      .......its why I have the Group, so when people want an answer we can approach the answer in the correct way and I am not giving improper answers to questions like yours. You just cannot give a quick answer to a complicated question. If that was possible, then Boxed hair color would work.

      And we all know......... it does NOT, on most people.

  9. 20Volume is the absolute best and #1 developer for covering gray. I can give you a lot of technical reasons for this fact - just trust me. It only lifts 1/2 level which is needed for tough gray. Your formula is wrong, the formula is the most important and hardest trick to learn in hair color. People think you pick the color you want - then apply it. NOTHING COULD BE MORE INCORRECT.
    --You fight the DURP you have
    -- you use a strong neutral, plus it needs to be mixed with
    -- the proper Level & tone
    I don't have enough info to answer your question, it just isn't that easy!

  10. Want to go from soft blk. To med./drk brown. I know i can use an ash blonde but what volume developer?

  11. Hair color does not lift hair color remember. Are you saying you have VIRGIN (UNTOUCHED) soft black hair color? No one ever comes here with virgin hair so I would imagine you don't either right? NO, that would not work at cannot apply a lighter hair color on top of a darker one, we do not have that technology yet.... thank you, KC

  12. hi, I have soft fine straight virgin black hair and i want to turn it to chestnut brown.I know I need to do some magic tricks to achieve the desired color. What advice can you give me?

  13. I cannot just give directions without knowing background on your hair, that is why everyone ends up with screwed up hair color. There is a scientific manner in which to perform successful hair color ( the key is "successful '' ) . You have black hair color on your hair so that changes everything. If you had virgin black hair that would be different (people don't come to this Blog unless they've colored their hair !!).

    Your first step is to remove the black hair color with the product we carry called : VANISH. It uses ZERO : bleach, peroxide, developer or any stripping materials. It merely reverses the way the hair color went into the hair by shrinking the color molecules ! Then I would need to know where you are before I could give you the next steps. This is the EXACT reason we have a Group !

    So, I can help you all achieve the hair color and health OF YOUR DREAMS !


    1. I like your blog, but I don't get why you think people with virgin hair don't read it. I'm reading it pretty much *because* I have virgin hair: I'd like to get highlights, but I don't know anything about hair dye/bleach.

      The only time I've altered my natural hair color was in 2004, and that hair was cut off (or shed) years ago. And I've never chemically altered my natural curl pattern. (Some people say that only hair that's *never* been chemically processed is virgin, but that doesn't make sense to me since hair is eventually shed.)

      Anyway like I said, I'm enjoying your blog. This isn't an angry rant or anything. I'm just a little puzzled.

    2. Puzzled about what?
      Why I think no one with virgin hair asks me questions?
      I have no idea.
      This is a hair color Blog and die-hard virgin hair people usually don't read about hair color I guess. I can honestly tell you are are 1 of 3-4 people in 9 years who have spoken to me that have completely virgin hair . . . . so BRAVO to you !
      The numbers are staggering like 89% of all women color their hair where I live....they say.

      As far as highlights....I don't recommend doing highlights on yourself, that is an art form and you want a professional............ I am here for those who want a 1 color formula and/or maybe 1 -14 blond pieces I call ribbons ( the Victoria Secret 'look I call it) ...
      or Toners, or pastels....

      hope that helps

  14. We do have the technology to lighten dark hair without bleach. L'Oreal Preference HICOLOR for DARK hair ONLY :-)

  15. oh my dear,
    just because they print that box, does not mean it does what it says it does. There is nothing you can purchase at Sally's that will do what I am referring to I am afraid to tell you......just look at a couple of the UTUBE demo's of people using it, it is sad what it does not do....and how it false advertises...... but L'Oreal doesn't have to care,really.... they are a French company. It doesn't even lift the hair 2 levels and what I am referring to is is going from dark hair to light. Or Level 5 to Level 9 or 10 even..
    I hate that they mislead so many of you with false advertising like that.
    THAT IS ILLEGAL IN THIS promise something you do NOT deliver on ...ON PURPOSE. So they are committing a crime by selling that color... with those words... on that box.

    hope that helps
    KC ;)
    Do you have proof of otherwise?
    I had a few people swear to me that L'Oreal's professional line Majirel's high-lifts were excellent so after years of them insisting they were nice, I bought them and tested them in many ways trying to get a lot of lift out of them......... they weren't even worth showing photos of, you could not see any lightening. So I will try anything truly, I just want 1 brand to conquer this, the man that did before died last year....and the formula's with him I suspect.

  16. I am currently a faded magenta color from using loreal hilights for dark hair, I've used this color for about two years and I'm needing to go back to a medium brown color what do you suggest I use to do this?

  17. This cannot be done without removing your present hair color 'first', the technology to apply a lighter color on top of a darker one and have it turn out correctly ( or even at all !) just simply......DOES NOT EXIST -'yet'..
    You can use bleach, but I would never recommend that

    "Remove the darker hair color - - FIRST".
    See on the right-hand sidebar of this Blog, the block that talks about VANISH............(over here---> ) that is the only color remover I recommend. It reverses the manner in which hair color molecules go into your hair strands and shrinks them - then they go back the way they came and go down the drain.
    NOTHING harmful.
    That's not to say if you begin with damaged hair it will come out healed, but I can tell you the one and only reaction I ever hear from its use is, " wow, I cannot believe how wonderful my hair feels".

    Do a "SEARCH" on this Blog and read about all the posts I have on the product called VANISH ( it used to be called MODULAT).
    You must get all the color out first then,
    you are ready to RE-COLOR !


    The application is a lot more time-consuming than that 1 sentence, though ;)

  18. What if I have dark hair (about a 5), and have been coloring with a 5n using 20 vol to cover grey? I took the color out yesterday using color fix and now it is fairly light. I'd like to keep it lighter and was thinking of using a dark blonde with 10 vol just to add color to the grey to make them blend more as highlights. Will this work?

  19. NO.
    From hundreds of reports to me............. that color remover does not work

  20. My daughter has medium to dark brown medium thickness hair. Last August she decided to use a box to bleach her hair blonde. She destroyed her hair, it will no longer hold any color that is put on for more than a couple of weeks. After nearly a year of trying to get rid of the brassy orangy red it was recommended that we use a darker brown dye and a 6 volume (1.9%) developer instead of the 20 volume we were using. Inside it looks great. Outside it is still very red/orange. The color is definitely more even which makes a big difference. It has also been recommended that we use a protein filler next time. Obviously we have to continue to wait for her hair to grow out, but, aside from what we are doing, any suggestions?

  21. HI!
    I have curly lightish brown, about level 5. I am trying to go ash blonde.
    I have used an ash blonde revlon hair dye box twice to try and achieve this. Now I have learnt that was a big waste. I was left orange. obviously.
    So then I bought a 20developer with Wella dye 10.1 (Lightest ash blonde). It was better but still too dark (about level 7) and too orange.
    Between all of these, I have left a lot of time in between (like a couple weeks) and have used good products (deep conditioners, protein stuff, hair masks...) So I still have my lovely curls, slightly looser, but pretty much intact. Yey!
    Sooooo, what should I do?
    - continue using 20vol with toner? whilst leaving time in between?
    - use 20vol with bleach? And then once its light enough I tone it?
    - use 30vol with bleach and leave it on for less long?
    I have patience. I just want to have the lightest curls possible. What should I do? Thank you!

  22. Purchase Thriven /Gleam & INTENSIVE. Use all 3 products for 2 months, it will make all the difference in the world !

    You are using demi permanent hair color which is not strong enough to Cover the mistake. If you truly want to cover it so you can't see the warmth use Wella illumina and 13 Volume.

  23. I have dark brown dyed hair now am aged 55 my hair grows so fast and need to cover grey roots every 3weeks so can't afford to use a salon. I am using 5.3 L'Oreal using 20 volume developer and getting 50 shades of brown. Sally's girls said to use RUSK Deep shine 1part colour and 1.5 parts 10 volume developer must admit I am scared will that work ok.? I did go blonde at the salon using highlights 2years ago .... hated it and was high maintenance been almost black my whole life that Irish/Italian in me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    1. NO ....STOP ! ! ! Do not do either of those things they both will be incorrect for your hair I promise you. You need to speak in Level's "dark brown" could be 1 of 4 shades of brown to me ! Im happy to give you the correct formula if you give me the Level Brown you are speaking of......Level 5? or Level 3 or ? ? ?
      If you use this formula, you will NOT have to color every 3 weeks I promise! ! ! ! I will give you a formula in a Level 5 because that is the level I think you are speaking of ...
      Be sure to follow all my Rules in regards to hair coloring to get 4-5 even 6 weeks of coverage. ( no shampoo after for 72 hours, let color process on hair for 65 minutes, etc....there are Killer 14 Rules for hair coloring which must be followed.
      Purchase color from my store, it comes directly from Wella - which is 20 minutes away and is fresh & new as can be....:
      stir those 2 colors together - FIRST- and then add 2 oz of 20Volume Developer....stir well and apply = applying to resistant gray areas first....
      No line covers gray as well as Koleston Perfect, if used in categories, not just 1 color does the job......

      Follow that and write me a note when you place your order and I will give you a couple other tricks. PLEASE use INTENSIVE as it is the best coolr lock in the bizness, i'm not just saying FLy's off our shelves..



  24. I have dark brown clip in hair ext but I want to make them a fraction lighter more like highlights .
    What do I use to achieve this

    1. I do not believe in hair extensions they do so much more harm than good, I have seen them pull the actual roots of the hair right out of the head. Then they can never grow their again....So I don't even speak about them.....
      As far as certain Topic's I don't speak on ............. such as EXTENSIONS, Olaplex, etc...If I don't have Posts on these topics that is a crystal clear sign that I do not agree with them and highly discourage you from using it/them. I've just seen tremendous damage from using them......think long and hard before using them is my suggestion



  25. Hello :) my hair is about a level 3 medium brown with some natural red highlights/under tones. Its coarse, curly, and quite thick. It's been a little over a year since I last colored it ( semi permanent, so it's pretty much gone now ). I'd like to color it to a deep plum purple. Could I get away with using just a 20 volume developer seeing as how id like the purple to stay dark, and not pastel? Or would I have to bump up the volume to 30 to see true results?

  26. You used a box color, which lies and says it is a Semi".......
    If you mixed developer with it - it is NOT a SEMII...
    I don't why these companies get away with such Bull shit, False Advertising is illegal in this country !
    I don't recommend VANISH just because I have nothing else to do, or I am just trying to get people to buy crap from me, that is NOT how I work, nor never will.
    I recommend VANISH because by the time you are finished with all of these disasters, you will have spent way more than VANISH if you had started with it....
    Over the past 8 years all I've done is listen to people complain about OOPS and how bad it trashes the hair.
    That is my one + only reason for using the products I recommend. I have researched, used and listened to thousands of emails from customers love or complain over this subject for a very very long time.

    more power to you...

    but NO , it will not work you cannot "LIFT" color with other color that....... simply does not work.



  27. hi, I was wondering wat developer to use with bright colours? suh as blue?

    1. Most of those "crazy Colors ( the bright colors everyone is sporting now ) don't use developer at all.
      They are used straight from the tube but be sure which ones you use.....some are terrible some, wonderful.
      We have one beautiful blue that comes from our Wella Color Touch Line - they are what we call : Boosters - they have been around for a zillion years. But, to achieve the blue with Demi- Permanent you may use that first and then keep it up with BOOST & BURST in Titanium or Breaking Bad Blue.
      Wella Color Touch - 0/88 > 1 ounce + 9/16 > 1/2 ounce................+ 13 Volume.
      Run a strand test first - small piece behind ear! ! !
      oh - just noticed your in Europe.........your colors are not the same as ours...
      try to find something similar
      hope that helps...

  28. Hi. I have dyed my hair dark brown for over a year. Last month I dyed my hair dark plum brown with a 20 developer. Of course, the purple is more bright on top and only visible in the sun light on the rest of my hair. Since its been a month I also have vigin hair from letting my hair grow for the last month. I have tried to lighten my hair using Colour B4 and a few rounds of natural lightening remedies. My hair is now 3 different shades. I want to dye my hair again dark plum brown but want to be able to see the purple not just in the sunlight and want an even hair dye job. What do you recommend i do? I understand using different developers. How do I use them? Do I start from the top with a lower developer and then down to the ends or the other way around?

  29. The numbers you are talking about don't make sense in America's color system so I cannot really help you there, if you want to purchase a "quickie Consult".........AND GO THROUGH ALL THE STEPS AND send me photos there is that as a NEW option. Here's the link:

    hope that helps...

  30. Hi, I have a dark blond hair that is virgin on the top, probably a 6 or 7 and super blonde highlights on the bottom with some withe and pastel color. I wanted to cover the highlights for an even look so I did the blond 7A with the 20 developer. Now I have copper color on my top and done greens on my bottom where I had the highlights. What did I do wrong? I have thin, straight hair and was hoping to go back close to my natural color. How do I fix this now? Thank you!

  31. So...I have pretty dark brown hair and quite a bit of gray around my face. I can't afford to have my hair lady color my roots every 2 to 3 weeks. I just want to cover gray between coloring and not use a box from the grocery store. I found the brand she uses in amazon...I'm looking at a light cocoa brown (5.23). But...I am confused by the developer strength. I do not want to I would think a volume 10, but I read that I will need a volume 20 to cover gray. What do you suggest? Is 25 to 30 minutes enough time to let it sit?

  32. I recommend you use our Professional hair color line by Wella called Koleston Perfect. It has the best Gray coverage EVER PLUS the health of your hair will return to "wonderful". Using "Crap-in-A-Box" to color the hair is one of the most damaging acts you can do to hair.

    We change dozens over to this on a daily basis and we receive dozens of thanks you for showing people like yourself ....THE WAY ! The trick to good gray coverage (is the proper formula, the best brand you can afford, process for 60 minutes - leave color on hair for 55-60 minutes). Use proper formula.....
    Here is formula in Koleston Perfect:
    66/0......1 Tube (depends on how long your hair is as to how much you use)
    5/77......1 Tube( use equal parts with color above)
    1oz. 66/00 + 1oz. 5/77 : mix well then add 2 ounces of 20Volume. Mix hair color together first....WELL. Then Weigh and measure Proper developer amount to mix - stir well - Begin applying on roots. PROCESS on Roots 60 minutes.
    Process full amount of time.
    Everyone thinks if you process hair color a long time it will get darker and darker....if that was the case we would only have ONE color and we would leave that one color on different lengths of times..

    Just use our brand its the best brand in professional Hair Color : Koleston Perfect....and gives excellent gray coverage!

    1. Thank you Killer Strands. Your reply has helped me a lot.

  33. I am 60% grey with 40% dark iv been using 10.0 and 10.1 wella with 30 vol I'm always left with a patch of dark in the front any advice please

  34. You are using the wrong developer first of all ....that would be your main problem.....Change to 20 Volume, leave the color on 1 hour in a warm room and follow my instructions for what to do after you color (NO SHAMPOO FOR AT LEAST 48 HOURS! ! ! ! )


  35. I just had my hair professionally colored w/ Wella KP- at the salon. My hair is coarse and very porous. The existing color was quite bleached and dried out from the summer sun and swimming. I am a "medium brown" w/ 20% gray concentrated mostly on temples and part. The colorist used 77/0 (1.5) and 66/0 (1.0) and 10 volume. I love the color of my hair on the outermost layers but the roots are soooo dark. Was this because of the 10 volume? Also, she stopped my processing at the 20 minute mark b/c I was concerned about how dark it was getting. Grey coverage and feel of hair is great even though she stopped the processing 10 minutes early. I would like to color my roots and don't know what to do. I was thinking of using equal parts 77 and 66 with a 20 volume for a little lift at the roots. Would this work? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

  36. Thankyou so much killerstrands for the advice on this group Ur amazing. Im an electrician and know nothing abt peroxide vol/% didnt know what lift meant looked everywhere. Now i know everything :) thankyou lots and lots

  37. My hair is black and need to cover my gray roots and have used demi ion 4N-4.0 . I always get confused which to use-- 10 or 20 developer. What would be correct Wella color and developer? Thank you so much for helping me. I used another color?? and had what think was hot roots. It had a a reddish tint. Thanks the responses, I read through all and it already helped in that I don't think I've been leaving the color long enough because I thought longer equals darker.

    1. First thing... stop using Ion, it is terrible color. Second, I recommend that you remove that existing hair color so that you will have a clean slate. You can remove color with a product called Vanish (as long as you do not have bleached hair. This is important if you really want healthier hair and a Professional hair color like Wella to look its best. If Vanish is too expensive, you may start with the shampoo train (just search those words here on the blog. I could give you a formula, but without seeing your color and knowing that you have Ion currently on your head... I wouldn't want to do that. The general rule is that you use 20 vol for covering gray... you would only use 10 vol for depositing... toning. We would love it if you joined our Facebook Group at
      We answer questions in a group setting so others can learn at the same time.


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