June 27, 2016

How / Why Hair Is So Screwed Up After 1 Application of Box Hair Color. WHY ? Makes ZERO Sense to Readers (read KC explanation)

Never used boxed hair color nor any Kits of kind on your hair, if you care AT ALL . . . about the condition or the look of it afterward. 

There is simply NO WAY the Level system of hair color will work on every single persons hair that walks into a store. NO ONE READS the back, they glance at it, but mainly they look at the color of the persons hair on the big Beautiful - wonderfully LIT photo on the front of the Box. Boy, I advise any consumer of any or all products that are sold on the Internet, to do a little research regarding all the bells & whistles used to take that photo, light the hair and face, then to have it artificially altered by PHOTO SHOP.

Think about all that is gone into that photo of that one girl chosen for that one photo, especially when hair color is a multi-billion dollar company. They put out what is known as "cattle calls' to all the top Beauty agencies in Hollywood, Dallas & New York City. Then thousands of girls are 'looked at'..............' photographed'.............Analyzed upside down and right-side UP........Then the extensions experts come-in and add extensions and the hair is freshly color..... If you notice in Tina Fey's hair color commercial for hair shampoo......she wears a wig. WHY? Because there simply is no way in Hell, that a man/woman/or child model or actor is going to put $10.00/ hair color FROM....A....Box ( from Walmart) ..... IN-THEIR-HAIR !!!  If you had all the money and access to the best.....the finest.........the top Colorists and Hair Cutters in the world, do you think you would get in your car and drive down to CVS and purchase Box Hair Color and do it yourself..............or even have someone apply it for you.

WHY. . . .WOULD. . . . .SOME. . .ONE,  IN THEIR  RIGHT  MIND  . . . DO. . . THAT? 

 They just simply would not. So, in order for the Tina Fey:  Hair Color and Hair Shampoo commercial not to be completely FALSE ADVERTISING ( and now with every single person, even 5 year olds having cell phones with video camera's attached to their bodies ) Large mega-Billionaire companies have to be more careful about covering their ASS, and doing " whats RIGHT ! ". Everyone loves Tina Fey, Kids - Women - Men - EVERYONE, she tests well ACROSS-THE-BOARD. So for the commercials to be credible, effective AND realistic. They have purchased a $50.000 - 75,000. Wig. The wig has 100% human hair in Tina's really color but Tina suffers from premature Gray and has been covering her gray for many years. So when they signed her for the hair contract with Garnier the only way she would agree to it (as would any hotshot celebrity) would be if she could wear a wig that was died in their actual hair color. 

A very long time ago when I did these commercials, the cell phone industry was for the rich and wealthy - remember those days???
So it made it much easier to get away with all of our canoodling and  B - S - ING !!!

 I mean . . . think about it there is one box of boxed hair color on the shelf.
The photo on the front is Tina Fey with her Level 6 B Hair color.

What happens when
 ........................when a:
  • black haired, 
  • brown hair 
  • blond hair 
  • albino and a
  • red hair person 
all walk in the same store or goes to that lame madison reed website or the other one ( can't think of the name) which are online.....and all 5 of those people purchase the same box of hair color.....because on that same day they all woke up and said, 
" I want to be a Level 6 Brunette today " ? ? ? ?

Now, please don't think this is such an odd occurrence....
I have 6000 people per day read this Blog and we acquire hundreds new readers - each & every week. 
 At least half of them have made the box hair color mistake......I tell you......if I wasn't ill. I would take up the cause in the judicial system and begin to get the whole theory banned from the public's use. Or I would come up with a better system that involved some education prior to purchasing hair color.
There is no way in the world that BOXED HAIR color with 1 bottle of developer in the box will work. Every single person ....while ''half'' may use the same color in the tube, they MUST have a different VOLUME of developer or the result will be completely destroyed as the results have been before.  The most popular hair color in the entire world is BLACK, coloring Black hair is pretty easy and keeping it black it pretty easy as well. So I believe that is what they thought of when they made Boxed hair dye. Yes, it will work for Level 1 & Level 2                                                  .

BOXED hair color should be banned, I  personally listen to thousands of you weekly who go through this and I will never stop answering this question because I want you all to get MAD ENOUGH to stop purchasing them and to call your congressman and tell them they should be banned from the shelves.
They are like purchasing a bottle of dynamite. It works 1 out of 10 times, and it still damages the hair by having the incorrect formula inside for at least 90 % of you ! That IS a lot of mistakes !. I feel like people think, " well crap" its only hair! ! ! ! But I don't know one of you who doesn't care about your hair.! !  A.....LOT !

With the Level System of Hair coloring it gives you options and formulas for you to figure out your color using TUBES of hair and then calculating which Volume of Developer that works with the 2-5 tubes of color you would use in order to create your perfect formula. If you look at my Killer 18 questions ('Google' them on my Blog ) those questions and then their answers are what will educate you on the knowledge of the basics of the LEVEL SYSTEM. Its something you  can use your entire life so begin educating yourself

June 21, 2016

What Exactly Is A Hair Color Booster & Why Do You Need Them ?

Color Boosters are designed to create custom, signature color shades. Every single line of hair color comes with Boosters . . . they all call them a different name it seems. Some call them MIXERS....some BOOSTERS.....some call the m Special MIXERS, the names are as vast as the amount of hair color lines their are..etc.....
They can be used in any Color formulation for increased color vibrancy or as a stand alone
shade for special effect coloring on pre-lightened hair. Some companies have 2-3 BOOSTERS, some have 20. Within the Wella Lines of color in both the Permanent Line of color which is Koleston Perfect and the Demi-Permanent Line of color which is Color Touch ..... they both have their own BOOSTERS as you can see.

Here is a chart showing the boosters at the bottom of the chart, so you may see for reference
 See, them at the bottom
They always seem like odd colors, but they are usually tones that are difficult to achieve in normal hair colors.
here is the list....
 But, the funny part is, with SILVER being such a hot color now.......look at 0/11 and the above swatch chart of it! 
It really does turn out to be a fantastic Silver . . . . just by using the Booster Alone + a Low Volume Developer....like "Pastel Developer" or 13Volume Developer ( which prior to all the crazy colors being popular was used to add "ash" a silvery ash to a formula.

Which btw, the new BOOST & BURST color that I came up with Chrome Chocolate has become super-duper Popular, which is a very silvery Dark Brunette, could be achieved by adding 0/11 PLUS 5/7 Plus 20 Volume .
All of these colors may be used alone, but the initial reason they were developed was to add a richer tone to colors that cannot be achieved by one hair color tube.


One of the most popular that has been used over the last 20 years was : 0/45, which gives  RED/Violet  formula a deeper richer Red-Violet.....one of the most difficult colors to achieve RG for those with Copper hair. Both of those Colors Fade easily .....and the reason is the RED pigment has not been as mastered as well as the rest of the pigments have.
Wella has been known for many years and remains the number 1 hair color line with the best / richest REDS. Which is known world-wide to be the most difficult color pigment to achieve and for it to remain bright for a long time, it truly does help extend the richness of the color if you add 1/4 of the formula as a booster.

These MIXERS are each formulated with specifically balanced color dyes to make it easy
to create signature hair-color or special effects. For increased color vibrancy, color boosters can be added into any of your Permanent formulations 'normally' up to ¼ of your color portion is what is suggested

For special effects, or a stand alone shade, our standard mixing ratio and processing time is one part Permanent Color Booster plus one part Developer (1:1) for 65 minutes in a warm room.
Booster Shades
Red.............these are the normal ones that most every line has......then you see Wella adding:
and Violet.

I have personally used boosters my entire career. NO they are absolutely necessary. .. . BUT they do help in adding richness to formula's, plus coming up with unique and rare hair colors that cannot be achieved with out them.
June 17, 2016

Demi Permanent & Toner....are One-in-the-Same

Toners are such a simple subject.... yet they are very complicated to explain and have people understand.

The technical description : Toners are semi-permanent, demi-permanent and permanent hair color products that are used primarily on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors.  

They are applied to the lightest degree of contributing pigment that remains after the de-colorizing process. Toners are normally pale colors that are used to counter the DURP (see previous Post) that pops through of so many peoples hair when going blonde.
Toners are always applied with low Volume developer, in order to also add to the Pastel or Demi appearance. 

The one description I use that works about half the time for people is this............... think about your winter white skin right now and if someone wanted you to throw on some daisy duke shorts and run around for some photos in broad daylight....would you do it?.. You would probably tell them to go to Hell, because no one has any color on them now. Everyone is kind of white , pasty and unappealing. (or maybe its just me!) but anyway . . .back to the description . . . . So what do we do in that case? We either :
  • Spray Tan
  • Self Tan Cream 
  • Tanning Bed  or
  • where some Nylons  . . . . any one of these 4 things do EXACTLY what a TONER does to hair.
A Toner is applied to the hair to give it a SHEER coat of any one color! Just like the tanning creams change white skin to Tan skin.....a toner can change brassy hair to a beautiful shade of beachy beige blonde. 

This category of hair color was originally discovered back when the platinum blonde was discovered approx. 80 years ago. They have refined how the Toner- category works, as 50 years ago they would lighten as light as they thought they could then apply a toner using 20 volume toner, hoping that with the 1 level that 20Volume developer lifts they would get even lighter blonde.

Since then it has been nicely refined. About 15 years ago Wella introduced the very first Demi-permanent line of color, which is called Color Touch. Color Touch truly is the most magnificent line of hair color for all hair types. Why? It has a pleasant floral scent ( if you can believe that!!!)..

Also let me show you how specific colors work to cancel annoying DURP that appears in hair as it goes blonde.

Here is the vast array of TONERS or Demi-Permanent

 Now the most important thing to learn about hair color ..........is its "BASE" color......otherwise how do you know how to fight the DURP or the annoying tone that you are trying to correct.

Remember the previous Post  . . .  and if you haven't read it, please do. DURP is that remaining pigment that you want to get rid of......

The most common color of DURP is BRASS

Remember what I've told you . . .  in order to cancel out the tone in your hair or the color in your hair that is remaining.....you choose the OPPOSITE color on the Color Wheel....
See the above Color Wheel?
so if you have Brass in your hair..................what Base do you want your Toner to have?
(remember you go across the Color Wheel................so Violet ! )

Here is a great little "cheat sheet" I call it......

I forget.....because a very long time ago I memorized all the base colors to all the lines of color I love and carry. But that is not fair to you....
So keep this and use it because it pertains to all Wella Colors including Illumina and Koleston Perfect, which are all the best hair color you will ever use.

Now as you can see a Violet based Toner or colors like 10/6, 10/81, 9/16, 8/81 are the perfect toners if you have Brass and or Blorange...... the first number is the LEVEL the color will be and as it shows about the numbers after the slash are the TONES.....