June 17, 2016

Demi Permanent & Toner....are One-in-the-Same

Toners are such a simple subject.... yet they are very complicated to explain and have people understand.

The technical description : Toners are semi-permanent, demi-permanent and permanent hair color products that are used primarily on pre-lightened hair to achieve pale and delicate colors.  

They are applied to the lightest degree of contributing pigment that remains after the de-colorizing process. Toners are normally pale colors that are used to counter the DURP (see previous Post) that pops through of so many peoples hair when going blonde.
Toners are always applied with low Volume developer, in order to also add to the Pastel or Demi appearance. 

The one description I use that works about half the time for people is this............... think about your winter white skin right now and if someone wanted you to throw on some daisy duke shorts and run around for some photos in broad daylight....would you do it?.. You would probably tell them to go to Hell, because no one has any color on them now. Everyone is kind of white , pasty and unappealing. (or maybe its just me!) but anyway . . .back to the description . . . . So what do we do in that case? We either :
  • Spray Tan
  • Self Tan Cream 
  • Tanning Bed  or
  • where some Nylons  . . . . any one of these 4 things do EXACTLY what a TONER does to hair.
A Toner is applied to the hair to give it a SHEER coat of any one color! Just like the tanning creams change white skin to Tan skin.....a toner can change brassy hair to a beautiful shade of beachy beige blonde. 

This category of hair color was originally discovered back when the platinum blonde was discovered approx. 80 years ago. They have refined how the Toner- category works, as 50 years ago they would lighten as light as they thought they could then apply a toner using 20 volume toner, hoping that with the 1 level that 20Volume developer lifts they would get even lighter blonde.

Since then it has been nicely refined. About 15 years ago Wella introduced the very first Demi-permanent line of color, which is called Color Touch. Color Touch truly is the most magnificent line of hair color for all hair types. Why? It has a pleasant floral scent ( if you can believe that!!!)..

Also let me show you how specific colors work to cancel annoying DURP that appears in hair as it goes blonde.

Here is the vast array of TONERS or Demi-Permanent

 Now the most important thing to learn about hair color ..........is its "BASE" color......otherwise how do you know how to fight the DURP or the annoying tone that you are trying to correct.

Remember the previous Post  . . .  and if you haven't read it, please do. DURP is that remaining pigment that you want to get rid of......

The most common color of DURP is BRASS

Remember what I've told you . . .  in order to cancel out the tone in your hair or the color in your hair that is remaining.....you choose the OPPOSITE color on the Color Wheel....
See the above Color Wheel?
so if you have Brass in your hair..................what Base do you want your Toner to have?
(remember you go across the Color Wheel................so Violet ! )

Here is a great little "cheat sheet" I call it......

I forget.....because a very long time ago I memorized all the base colors to all the lines of color I love and carry. But that is not fair to you....
So keep this and use it because it pertains to all Wella Colors including Illumina and Koleston Perfect, which are all the best hair color you will ever use.

Now as you can see a Violet based Toner or colors like 10/6, 10/81, 9/16, 8/81 are the perfect toners if you have Brass and or Blorange...... the first number is the LEVEL the color will be and as it shows about the numbers after the slash are the TONES.....

2 comments on "Demi Permanent & Toner....are One-in-the-Same "
  1. I have read many posts on your website and as I understand it, the Wella toners you listed above to fight brassiness will not lighten hair because they are being used with a low volume developer. Have I interpreted that info correctly?

    I have level 6 cool/ neutral hair with level 8 highlighted slices throughout which are blorange at the moment. After reading this post I am thinking of trying Wella color touch 8/81 to try and take the brassiness out. Will my level 6 hair be unaffected in terms of depth of color? I do not want it to lighten.

    I have tried Wella color touch relights /86 however I see no difference at all throughout...

    Funny I had thought of trying color touch 8/81 in the past but I was scared off by the gray color swatch. It looks so light, but I guess my brassy tones would make it more beige...


  2. BL500,
    You have not read enough Posts...again I encourage EVERYONE to take a weekend and read the entire Blog, I know that sounds like a lot -- BUT...BUT....BUT....its the Posts you are missing that are the important ones - almost always.
    Whenever Developer is used there will always be a line of demarcation. To solve your problem the exact way you want order 1 Bottle of VIOLET PILOT in BOOST and 1 Bottle of BURST in BREAKING BAD BLUE - experiment with processing times of each product. Say 4 minutes of BOOST and 9 minutes of BURST.. .this is the one and only way to solve your problem without affecting the rest of the hair. PERIOD.
    or have who ever did them ---FIX THEM , as that is unacceptable in my true honest opinion. - /TRY THIS FIRST SERIOUSLY, u will be surprized.


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