October 27, 2010

The Best Shampoo In The World in The Ugliest Bottle in The World

Sometimes the Package Really Shouldn’t Matter
What would you think of a shampoo that was Sulfate-Free 15 years ago? How about a Shampoo that ‘counters’ all the bad effects of hard water – naturally ? What about a shampoo that was a funky mix of Aqua Blue-Green in clear bottle with a label from the 80’s? You would never buy it ………..BUT YOU SHOULD as what it does – will really & truly make your hair squeeky clean, light as a feather and act differently than any shampoo you have ever used. The brand? Malibu 2000 the shampoo? UN DOO GOO. I have been using this shampoo since the first week of Hair Academy  - - Vidal Sassoon’s Colorists and Cutters both swore by it and that was 16 years ago. Not till I repeated that tidbit of information  to myself the other day was I reminded how brilliant this odd colored Shampoo truly is.
Lets tackle the “hard water” issue as its something – so extremely common and so horribly harmful to your hair.                                                       
80%+ of all households out there ( this means YOU) have hard water running through their shower heads and directly onto your hair strands. That is NOT ADVISABLE and is one of the mandatory Steps of the 10,000HEADS Hair Strengthening Regimen in which I plead for everyone to follow.
Condition: Hard Water
Over 85% of the population in the U.S., according to the Water Quality Association, are bathing with hard water. While hard water is fine for drinking (although I beg to differ on that subject as well), it can cause many problems for your hair, scalp and skin
These problems include:
  • Hair feels dry
  • Hair is resistant to color or perming
  • Dandruff or eczema of the scalp
  • Dry, flaky skin
  • Thinning hair
  • Colors fading too quickly
  • Perms appearing to fall out
  • Discoloration or darkening of hair
  • Hair lacks body and shine
The water you use to wash your hair, scalp, and skin comes from one of two sources:
  • Ground Water
  • Surface Water
Ground Water
If your water comes from the ground, it is either from your own well or from the local treatment plant that derives the water from wells pumping water from the ground. The source of ground water is from rain passing through aquifers, which are layers of minerals. The acidity (pH below 7) of the rain increases the dissolving effect of minerals. These dissolved solids are found in the water when pumped above the ground and used to bathe.
Surface Water
If your water comes from the treatment plant which derives the water from a surface source, the water is coming from either a river or a lake. Surface water usually contains less minerals because the water has not filtered down through the mineral layers. However, increasing populations are polluting the water causing additional bacteria growth. As a result, the treatment plants must add more chlorine to kill bacteria and then add lime (a calcium compound) to help control the chlorine levels.
Water hardness is determined by the level of calcium that is in the water either found naturally from the ground or put into the water by the treatment plant.
While calcium is the element that determines hardness of water, there are many other elements in the water that effect the texture, volume, shine, control and health of hair.
What are the minerals that effect hair?
  • Calcium
  • Iron
  • Copper
  • Magnesium
  • Silica
  • Lead
What other elements effect hair?
  • Chlorine -a harsh oxidizer added to the water to kill bacteria also adversely effects hair.
How do minerals and chlorine attach to the hair?
Our hair, scalp and skin have an electrical charge and that charge is negative. Minerals and oxidizers are charged positive. When a positively charged mineral comes in contact with our hair, scalp, or skin, it attaches on like a magnet.

How do hard water minerals and chlorine effect hair?
Calcium - If your source for water is a well, then more than likely you have calcium in your water. If your source for water is coming from a treatment plant, calcium may have been added to your water. Calcium is the mineral that determines hardness of water.
How calcium effects hair:
  • Calcium leaves the hair feeling dry and weighted down. It can even cause a perm to appear relaxed.
  • Calcium builds up on the scalp causing flaking of the scalp, giving the appearance of dandruff.
  • Calcium can choke the hair at the mouth of the follicle causing the hair to break off, then coating the scalp, blocking further new hair growth.

Iron - Iron is found in ground water from domestic wells and wells used by treatment plants as the source for local water.
How iron effects hair:
  • Iron leaves the hair feeling dry, brittle and weighted down.
  • Iron can cause dark hair to tint darker and blonde hair to turn orange.
  • Iron can block perms and color from properly processing.
Copper - Copper originates in water in three ways:
  1. It comes from the ground and is pumped into the water from a well.
  2. Particles of copper can come from copper piping. The corrosion caused by hard water lifts the copper particles off the pipes and deposits them into the water.
  3. Copper sulfates are added to swimming pools to control the growth of algae. Copper is often added to lakes (that are a source of drinking water) in the summer to kill algae.
How copper effects hair:
  • Copper discolors hair causing blonde hair to turn green and dark hair to tint darker.
  • Copper can weigh hair down and cause dryness.
  • Copper can inhibit the proper processing of perms, color and relaxers.
Magnesium - Usually found wherever calcium comes naturally from the ground, magnesium is abundant in the soil and is very much a part of the mineral complex associated with hard water.
How magnesium effects hair:
  • Magnesium causes hair to feel dry.
  • Magnesium causes hair to appear weighted down.
  • Magnesium can inhibit the proper processing of perms, color and relaxers.
  • Magnesium causes hair to lack shine.
Silica - Silica is a sand-like substance found in desert or volcanic areas. It is usually bound to calcium or magnesium and forms very hard, virtually insoluble deposits.
How silica effects hair:
Silica causes many of the same effects on the hair as calcium.
  • Silica causes hair to feel dry.
  • Silica weighes hair down.
  • Silica can cause dandruff-like symptoms of flaking.
  • Build up of silica can choke the hair follicle causing hair to fall out.
Lead - Lead acetate is used in certain home remedy gray hair cover-ups.
How lead effects hair:
  • Lead can cause the hair to feel dry.
  • Lead can prevent the proper processing of perms, color, and relaxers.
Chlorine - unlike the other elements listed above, chlorine is not a mineral but an oxidizer. Chlorine is put into drinking water and swimming pools to kill bacteria. In addition to the following effects chlorine has on hair, due to it's oxidizing effects, chlorine also oxidizes minerals onto the hair causing worse effects of those minerals.
How chlorine effects hair:
  • Active chlorine in the hair can cause hair to feel gummy when wet and straw-like when dry.
  • Chlorine can damage the cuticle and proteins of the hair.
  • As an oxidizer, chlorine can cause the air and sun to oxidize hair and worsen the conditions listed above.
  • Chlorine can cause hair to feel dry.
  • Chlorine can cause hair to become brittle.
  • Chlorine can cause hair to lack shine.

Feel like you have now been hit in your head with a brick and you better cut off every water pipe to your home?
Well, you don’t. Education – Education is the road to the Solutions to your problems - - how big or small.
All you need is
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These photos have been “Photo Shopped” for sure, or hey maybe its me and my taste. But I still stick by my “ worlds ugliest bottle” quote!
October 15, 2010

Sulfate-Free Shampoos – Pros, Cons + Scope

 0101 shampoo photos 113 People are Finally Paying Attention . . . . and to see a frequently running shampoo commercial on TV where the main TAG Line is : “Sulfate-Free Shampoo” (L’Oreal has Eva Longoria hawking a new one) – truly feels like a huge victory for me…my theory…and my work to get these damaging shampoo’s OFF the shelves for you. I have been hawking this theory of mine for 10-12 years (sorry, my memory sucks). 
16 years spent on over 10,000 heads of hair. . . that is my proof. I am 100% positive of this one theory. At the time of all my testing I would pick out random females in all age groups that I was concerned about ( in my regular clientele) that would get one of my “new” test shampoos. Unbeknownst to them, some had SLS-Free shampoo and some had SLS Shampoo. Remember now, this was 10 years ago, 98% of the companies used SLS in their shampoos. Why? It cost pennies and lathered up into super suds like nobody’s business. People like lots and lots of suds, I don’t know why but they do. 000123 SLSFREE poo theory Now, what would happen over the course of 3-4 months since I had seen them, would be the result of the test. EVERY SINGLE TIME – the shampoo with SLS in it  --  the client would complain of hair loss, hair thinning – & lots and lots of shedding. Plus, the clients with the SLS-Free Shampoo would not complain of it – AT ALL. Yep, it probably was not super scientific, but as far as I was concerned, the experiment gave me a 100% solid answer to the question that had me very upset and puzzled for over a year. . . .  I had a huge percentage of my female clientele { from 17—65] complaining of severe hair thinning/loss and I needed to find a common denominator. No one else was.
We did this randomly over the course of 1 year, all 6 { my assistants & I } of us were completely and undeniably convinced that we would never EVER use Sodium Lauryl Sulfate in our shampoos ever again in our life – Period. So, the battle began, I would get nothing but rejection when contacting the product manufacturers - - it was very hard at the beginning. I was fighting the “Big Boys” – basically alone. So again, with L’Oreal busting out their new “sulfate-free shampoo line” all over the TV screen just gives me this underlying thrill, for all the years I have been fighting the ‘big boys’. Finally  - -  all my work and research, is now rewarded ( in a weird way – but hey – I’ll take it). 
At the beginning of my research into this problem, I had a hard time believing it. I just could not believe that all these companies would be using something that would cause this. Seemed pretty important to me. It wasn’t till 2 years later and my study of Cosmetic Chemistry that I fully understood the ramifications of the Sodium Lauryl Sulfate addition to shampoo’s. The actual purchase of the product ( SLS)  was all I needed to completely lock up my hypothesis.( I am not a scientist) But as I studied and learned I also injected my “common sense” to the picture. Don’t ever think that part of your brain is not important - - because it is.
Now with my adventure into taking Cosmetic Chemistry courses and befriending 2  well respected Cosmetic Chemists – a whole new world of enlightenment began. I wish there were honest – Cosmetic Chemists who would speak up to the public - -  but I understand - - they make their weekly paychecks by the big companies and are on contract with the large hair care product manufacturers. So truthfully – they would be out of a job, and no, I don’t think I would give up my job to point out this problem either. I prefer being realistic here. There is that silly website, BEAUTY BRAINS….everyone asks questions of a team of (supposed) Cosmetic Chemists – I’ve always thought – they are a group of “smart” internet geeks – and just “Google” every question. They have slammed me many times, which I find odd . . . claiming everything I sell is to make money and screw you. If you truly read my blog, and hear my voice - - - that accusation simply is not true….for the 1st year, I thought I would be dead very soon ( I have a a very rare and deadly bone disease).  The first year I simply wanted to - “give back”  to a whole lot of people I did not know – for NO REASON - - - so that if my life ended in a year {as I felt it was}. . . I would have a tiny legacy. I was the first one to tear down the walls that hair stylists put up, to keep their clients/public out of. Every single person knew what I was talking about in that aspect. I will fully admit that I did that myself . . . I kept my formula’s secret. I kept the way to cover gray hair locked up. My tricks to the perfect blond were never given out. My tricks in going blond to brown and then back again  - -  locked up in a private cabinet. As a Hair Stylist the only thing you have is the knowledge you have learned and the successes you have produced – so you and I must understand there is a perfectly valid reason for it.
What I discovered (from talking to so many of you across this great nation) was that most of you live in small towns sprinkled across the country and you have tried every Salon in your town. . .  with the results being horrific. So you are forced to do it yourself. Many using my own named “Crap-in-a-box” Kits {Hair Color Box Kits} . .. ending up again, with horrible results - - so you begin the trek through all the hair web sites on the web. I cannot tell you how many people every single week: write me with a comment very similar to : I AM SO GLAD I FOUND THIS WEBSITE, finally a place where you can get the truth about hair. It might not be things you want to hear  . . . but if you follow 10,000HEADS – a 14 step Regimen to thicker – stronger – healthier hair……..your hair WILL CHANGE……period. I am not worried at all if it might not work for someone . . . because the success rate is just absolutely – completely – phenomenal. Seriously !
So I wanted to share my joy with the general acceptance of the idea that all shampoos need to be Sulfate- FREE .  Do your part and no matter where you purchase your shampoo – ASK FOR SULFATE-FREE and let your preference be known. There is not a Salon Shampoo made now-a-days that isn’t Sulfate-Free {another Victory for my movement I feel }. They all have learned and we are talking hundreds of brands of shampoos.

Killer Chemist
October 3, 2010

Are You “Up In The Air” About Which Color Formula to Use On Your Hair?

Think you have it all figured out, but want a professional to double check?
0002 Level8 Bronde
KILLERSTRANDS Store (www.Killerstrands.com) has a new kit for this exact situation. We have called it something very original … the “UP-IN-THE-AIR Kit” or UITA Kit well….maybe not.  Now, some of you may remember we tried this before, and it failed. No one does it on the Internet and I know why, its almost impossible. But, its much better than using boxed hair color which offers absolutely NO help… for the exact same process. I realize this is a big GIANT problem and probably too big for one person like little ole me . . . but I am taking it on anyway. With each attempt I learn something new….and who knows maybe this is the wrong approach as well . . . but at least I am trying.
On the previous attempt in trying to help people find their formula, I ran into 3 problems that needed to be conquered :
  • answers submitted were much too long and had no bearing on outcome
  • clients did not take time to learn “level System” ( mandatory - for this to work)
  • clients answers required an email exchange which did not suit the system
bombshell strands221
In order for me to offer this economical and quick . . . hair color help, there just has to be some rules. Otherwise I receive “novels’’ of individuals hair history that I simply do not have the ‘time’ to read  - - PLUS . . .are not relevant to what we are trying to figure out.
I realize everyone wants to tell me their personal history of how they got to where they are. . . but, that simply just does not matter in this case……….. none of that is important, it really isn’t. The only thing that is truly important, is the answers to the VID questions:
  1. V………. what “Level & Tone” your hair is VIRGIN (V- with nothing on it) ??
  2. I……….. what Level & Tone your hair IS (I) now  ??    and finally
  3. D………. what Level & Tone do you DESIRE your hair to be ??
With the UITA we do give you the advantage of answering the KILLER8, which does give those of you that have the misconception that MORE information is better a chance to add some additional knowledge about your hair.
wella KP 2010 chart138

Coming up with a person’s hair color formulation is an art, a very treasured and rare art. The most important part for this to work for you, is following the directions.
The remainder of the Killer 8 questions are as follows:
4. What is percentage of Gray?  ……………( example of a perfect answer: 40%)
5. What is your DURP? …………….(ex. of perfect answer: Brass) this is Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment or that darn pigment that is hard to get rid of.
6. What is your texture?…………(ex. of perfect answer: fine/straight)
7. What is porosity & overall condition?…………(ex. of perfect answer: porous ends – damaged all over)
8. Length & Thickness ?……….(ex. of perfect answer: shoulder length + medium thickness)
The reason for this post is because we have already had some of our customers purchase the UITA and not answers the Killer8 correctly. I truly want to offer this service to many of you that need and want it, but if I am to do so . .  the only way it will work is if people follow the above example of how to answer the questions, exactly.
Please remember that the Up-In-Air-Kit’s longevity depends ON YOU, following the above directions. They are simple, but need you to take the time to read them and learn the Level System . . . which is so simple I taught it to a 12 yr.old last week.
Thank You and be sure to join our GOOGLE GROUP if you have not already, there is a lot of guidance in there about how things run here at Killerstrands . . . which can only benefit you.
Killer Chemist