December 28, 2016

Length of Hair As it Applies to Color Formula + HOT ROOTS & 'BLAST' Metallic Hair Color

 How......the "length of your hair'' is a contributing factor to your next hair color formulation !

I really decided this question was necessary in the 17- Point list of Killer Questions that I need to help people with their formulas in our NEW Group in Facebook. When I am asked about going platinum or the super-lightening of with bleach or Lightener as I like to call it. Like this photo:   
The length of the hair is poignant in determining the formula. Why? Why?

 Why should the length of hair matter? 

Because the HEAT from your body (scalp too!) is a constant 'radiating' 98.6 degrees remember and the ouside temperature is not that high of a temp ( if they are we go in to get in air conditioning - don't we??!!??) 

That warm temp that the body constantly radiates off of our bodies / scalps included <> which in turn. . . .always warms up the hair color's ability to lighten the hair, which only reaches the first 1/2" to 3/4" of hair 'from' the body. When it is warmed up then it speeds the lightening up and the roots lighten faster and lighter than the rest of the hair. HOT ROOTS name stems from the fact that the roots looks hot because they are both on VIRGIN hair AND/OR turn lighter than the rest of the hair. A great solution to that is using one of the many BOOST/BURST combination of hair colors.

 I just continue to receive phone calls from all of you with a new ZEST for your hair color. Letting your gray grow out and trying Rose or one of the many pastels we offer in BOOST AND BURST...........just makes me so proud of everyone. It really does. So many of you are trying colors that you never would have years ago and it is so enlightening to hear.
But, that is the main factor contributing towards that hot button term " HOT ROOTS" ! !! 

 Check out this girls hair cut, to the left. Odd I know, but I have always been partial toward disconnected hair cuts in general because they are so different and as an artist I just happen to love, "different". Its very short in the back ...correct ? With a long fringe (bangs). Disconnected means it does not gradually go from one length to another. .........the sections do not gradually go from one to another or the cut is more disconnected than connected to each others sections or layers. { my descriptions is a little hokey - I hope you understand what I mean}. 

(1)The first application would be approx. 3/4" -- "OFF" the Head - - -  to the ends in the long part of the hair. Going part by part, with either foils for powder lightener for the lengths or using cotton and our violet creme bleach Lightener. Lightening the Lengths first - then the last 30-50 minutes (depending on the virgin Level  - of course)

If you were to apply the lightener to the lengths and the roots AT THE EXACT same time..... which is a mistake many people make.... because you MISSED  that part of the explanation (its very tricky trying to teach these complex techniques over the web - but I try) if you commit to reading all my posts ( read them 2 different days if you have to.....about the subject of "lightening" I am confidant you too....will be able to achieve PLATINUM  NIRVANA. 

So to lighten this particular cut is a bit tricky, but for the sake of our current discussion the cut is exactly what I want you to focus on - while I try to make my point about the "length of hair" VERSUS the Lightening Application.
You don't need as many applications when you have shorter hair .... why?  Because the "heat" from the head warms up any ''lightening'' hair color or lightener needs.........whether it be Oil bleach...bleach....lighter hair color....high-lift hair color.....and that heat from the body makes the color work to lighten to a more extreme version than the lengths of the hair. If this particular girl were to have her entire head of hair the length as it is in the back......lightening would be quite easy, but with the 2 different lengths of hair ............. where do you apply the very first application ??? ( assuming she is a Level 5-6 VIRGIN hair color - a telling sign is eyebrow color many times). 

See this girl to the left ............this is the "HOT ROOTS" result when so many of you want to be lighter and think that if you apply a lighter color of hair color to your entire head of hair that is already colored -- it will go lighter... ( this girl had Level 5 Red-Violet Permanent color on her hair with about 1 1/2" of new growth).  She thought she "could" lighten her hair by applying a Level 8RR on top of her existing color. I receive this question every week for the last decade at least a dozen times a week. The technology does not exist where you can lighten "pre-colored" darker hair by applying lighter color on top. THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS. Besides this weird look , she has added one more layer of color that must be removed in order to fix this. The more layers of color you have on your hair you have to remove............ the more costly it becomes. So there are multiple ways to achieve the "HOT ROOTS" look ! This needs to have all color removed, and so many of you just apply black on top and forget it. My advice? Don't do that ......takes the steps needed ( which are all right here on this Blog) to remove the color and fix your hair once and for all.  . . . . never using Box-O-Crap again. You may now join our new Facebook Group and ask questions of me directly , I'm not fast but I always get there.....! ! !  she click on this link and sign up if you need some help. I hope to re-open my consultations at the beginning of the year.....but we'll see!

So, if for some reason you have the "hot roots'' appearance on your head Which is why and where the Term " HOT ROOTS" comes from. Many of you use that hot roots term, and what it truly means is the roots of your hair are LIGHTER than the rest of your hair. Whether its long or short ......if you have EVER come out of a new color job with very light roots and your lengths are 1-4 levels darker. . . . . you are the proud owner of HOT ROOTS, there multiple reasons for them, I just want many of you to be aware that there is a name for that weird look you may have....and "if" you paid a lot of money and have this look .......PLEASE go back to where you got it done and speak to the manager, the last thing they "should want" is that look on your hair walking around. They should WANT to fix it. I always felt as though my clients hair was my business card and that if it wasn't perfect I would never let them walk out of the Salon. 
So be sure to stick up for yourself. What you want to request afterwards is the best ''Color correction specialist'' in your town, there is almost ALWAYS one of those in every city.

Many of the BOOST/BURST colors will solve issues you have WITHOUT permanently coloring OR altering the hair which is one of the most endearing features of the colors. It is 100% Semi-Permanent, which means it colors the "TOP" of the hair ONLY ! It can be shampooed out completely with absolutely ZERO residue. That is very hard to find in today's world of large hair corporations NOT FOLLOWING the rules of the Hair Color LEVEL SYSTEM which gives Colorists both Crib & Pro an actual system and regimen to go by, where coloring hair is NOT GUESSWORK. It is a system that works, and when followed your results will be perfect and right on the money!

We do have a new category of colors similar to BOOST & BURST.............and of course its name is BLAST !

Blast is 12 color line that is Metallic. It took months to develop and yes, the price is steep. Why? MICA is expensive and if the line takes off, I will be able to purchase it in larger quantities which will bring the price down. it gives the hair a metallic look. These will add a metallic look to your strands, and work the same way as BOOST & BURST.

We are giving everyone in the first couple months 4 free foils with every purchase so that you may run a strand test prior to applying it to the entire head of hair. Just for safety we have all sorts of results and we will give you 10% off your next bottle of BLAST if you will write me a short few sentence review on how it worked, and any suggestions you may have.  Is hard we have tried it on 10 various heads of hair, but in today's world that is nothing, with the wide variety of hair and people out there. 

My goal, as it is always, is to have the best products you can find and I can only do that with feedback from you. Please send your responses to "KC" at  subject : BLAST REVIEW. We will send the code in response. 

I Thank each and everyone of you for supporting our little dog and pony show all year long....we fight the big boys always trying to take over and its not an easy fight. Its no wonder that only 5% of all online businesses make it past 2 years !

That is why I thank you all, because without YOU.......we are nothing. You have helped and you have warmed us all year long and every single one of us THANKS YOU.

December 9, 2016

Illumina Develops a Fantastic New Color - 5/02 - MATT Level 5

Did I just speak another language and lose you?
I hope not!

Wella's Illumina line has come out with an almost perfect color. One of the biggest problems brunettes have is fighting off the Blorange/Gold Illumina is capitalizing on the success of the MATT series and has introduced a MATT color to the Illumina Line, for which I say BRAVO to ! MATT colors are Blue-based which means.................

 if you look at a color wheel:

How do you get rid of an annoying color in hair color?

Remember, you find the color you are trying to get rid of....lets just says it is Blorange (very common in brunettes) ....put your finger on Orange on the Color Wheel ........Now draw your finger across the Color Wheel ..........Straight across...........what color do you see? Across from BLUE............therefore you need a Blue Based brown if you are brunette or a blue based toner if you happen to be a blonde.

The level system works that way with all annoying tones in your hair that anyone of you may have so remember that. The opposing color DRRRRAWS out the annoying color and pulls it into that NEUTRAL spot. which is what you want to do with annoying tones.

So introducing this new color was brilliant of them .Here is Illumina 5/02 by Wella and Illumina:

December 3, 2016

Not 50 Shades of Gray but, 100 Shades of Gray.......Gone! (BOOST & BURST weekend SALE)

OR .......................
How To Grow Gray Hair Out
from years of Hair Color ...
Goal: to natural/virgin 
without a Lot Of  Headaches ?
Lets Face It There Are Just Times When You No longer Want to Continue To Fight That Battle ! !
Pastel Hair color Looks Divine on Any Age !

 Everyone is asking and I am a Answering . . . . . 

Just Use BOOST and BURST and the process will take care of itself!

We have 2 new colors:
Which both came from a special request last week, after we made them, we all agreed they needed to go on the line-up.

These colors are actually to help out those of you with annoying brass/gold/blorange......which I had been avoiding because I had truly hoped that I have taught everyone how to have brass-free hair, but I hear that just is not the case ! There really is no reason in the world for it so please join the group and begin asking questions, I will help you directly - especially if you Post the KILLER 18 Questions (they're easy) answers just Google "Killer 18 questions".

But for those that still struggle with those annoying tones, I wanted you to have our products because I have not found a line that lasts as long as ours or that has the range of colors we do. I would encourage you to give our line a try if you have not yet.
 I just continue to receive phone calls from all of you with a new ZEST for your hair color. Letting your gray grow out and trying Rose or one of the many pastels we offer in BOOST AND BURST...........just makes me so proud of everyone. It really does.

We have a couple new colors that actually came to us in a "custom color request", that we all fell in love with - so thank you for that my dear. Brilliant !

One is called:  NO-MO-BRASS, which comes in BOOST and BURST and works on ANY colored hair that has GOLD or Brass in it that you no longer want to see. Seems like an obvious choice, but we brushed right over that. Say you have Level 8 thru 12 Blonde hair that isn't quite as ICY as u would like :
  • NO-MO-BRASS is your color
Say You have bleached your hair and there is gold or brass that just isn't Icey enough for you
  • NO-MO-BRASS is your color
  Then lets just imagine there are some light brunettes out there that get hints of brass/gold/ or blorange and they want help getting rid of those annoying tones..........we now have - I would encourage you to use Illumina's hair color in 8/69 if you haven't - as well.

  • Hanalei.......a Light brown with a blue/violet base
..............perfect for fighting any annoying tones for the lighter brunettes.............if you have light brown hair that you would like not to have ANY Brass/Gold/or Blorange of ANY type that is where you would need  HANALEI. The thing about BOOST and BURST and why they are not just another "purple shampoo". We make our line by hand, with unique/strong and more accurate pigment - so if you want to you can leave the color on for an hour or 2 . . .............WITH a Foil Cap on.............using a hair dryer ( we have a great hooded travel hair dryer for $16.bucks) ...........and that color will help you grow out your gray without any problems at all 
Now if you are one of the many people considering growing your gray out..............

I would encourage you to give it a try. . . I hear of so many that are just having a blast wearing pastel hair color.....with BOOST & BURST you can use them to apply to your colored hair while the process takes place. You can do it yourself in your own home at your own pace.  So many of you are beginning to read this Blog and remember I have been writing it for a decade so there are a lot of good things to absorb. I would encourage everyone to read the whole thing. PLEASE............DO NOT LET READING GO BY THE WAYSIDE..........

Now to get through the "grow-out" period, the color you choose depends on many things....If you want my opinion or any of our group members opinions I encourage you to join our FACEBOOK GROUP.   
Why does it depend on many things? 
Because some of you have 20% Gray some have 80% , some have brown hair mixed in with gray......some don't ......which is one of the more common questions I get.
For that particular set of problems you have a couple choices. You can either use Chrome Chocolate (which is a beautiful Silver/Brown), which is the most popular choice OR Silver Bullet for a more Silvery look.
To be perfectly frank you can truly use any color you like and what these colors do: blend the demarcation line from your virgin hair color to your colored hair color. The tint in these are strong enough to cover gray if you leave them on long enough. 

Which gives you an easy way to check and see if that option is what you want to try.

Silver hair is the number 1 color of hair.............people want right now................and YOU already have it ! You should hear what some of these kids go through to achieve a beautiful metallic silver................and again - YOU ! ! !  !  already HAVE IT !

The thing about BOOST & BURST is...........they are what a TRUE - AUTHENTIC Semi-Permanent Hair Color is. 
Authentic Semi-permanent hair color is hair color that does NOT have developer used to mix and apply. Semi-permanent hair color is hair color that can be shampooed out with absolutely NO LINE OF DEMARCATION.
Or, in other words........if you have  2 bottles or 2 tubes or 2 types of powder and another liquid.....of Any type that you have to mix together to apply to your hair, you are using permanent hair color. As long as you use developer, your Virgin hair color is altered.
BOOST and BURST - will NOT.........DO...........THAT !   They are TRUE authentic Semi-permanent Hair Color that we continue to make in large batches by hand. There is nothing like hand -made products in my opinion. Have you ever had a hand-made cake versus a store bought cake? 

OMG the difference is HHHHHHHHHuge

 So, those crap-in-a-box hair colors that you get at the drug store that print Semi-permanent on the box are downright lying.... These big corporations print whatever they think will sell on the box, not listening to what is correct and is maddening to me ( as you might be able to tell).
 We have the FDA but they just won't go up against L'Oreal , etc about labeling....I mean I would rather them fight the drug wars than worry about labels but somebody has to informa the public what is TRUE AND HONEST....

But anyway, I just want you to learn the truth and have honest - real education about your hair and the color that goes on it. A lot of you are developing sensitivities to hair color............BOOST and BURST will help solve these problems for you. You can play with them and even if you change your mind. These are 100% shampoo-out hair color. You simply begin using regular shampoo and remember YOU HAVE THE CONTROL of your color. 

The brightness of it..........depends on how long you leave it on. . . and how frequently you apply it. I have heard of 101 different ways people are using it. But to grow your hair color out and begin having some of the beautiful pastels like on the ladies above, I mean......what could be more fun! ? !?!?!?

Once your silver is grown out it is almost like having bleached hair, because as you see in the photo above they have applied a pastel semi-permanent color for fun directly on top of their silver hair.....
you can wear one color for 1 week......then another color 3 weeks later....and then when you don't want to color for a while just begin using regular shampoo - we even have BOOST and BURST in a color called PURE.............which means PURE WHITE !

See this new color
Begin with platinum hair color to achieve:
Smoking Hot Heart
Use Bleeding Heart on your BASE (roots)
Sterling OR Silver Bullet on lengths