December 28, 2016

Length of Hair As it Applies to Color Formula + HOT ROOTS & 'BLAST' Metallic Hair Color

 How......the "length of your hair'' is a contributing factor to your next hair color formulation !

I really decided this question was necessary in the 17- Point list of Killer Questions that I need to help people with their formulas in our NEW Group in Facebook. When I am asked about going platinum or the super-lightening of with bleach or Lightener as I like to call it. Like this photo:   
The length of the hair is poignant in determining the formula. Why? Why?

 Why should the length of hair matter? 

Because the HEAT from your body (scalp too!) is a constant 'radiating' 98.6 degrees remember and the ouside temperature is not that high of a temp ( if they are we go in to get in air conditioning - don't we??!!??) 

That warm temp that the body constantly radiates off of our bodies / scalps included <> which in turn. . . .always warms up the hair color's ability to lighten the hair, which only reaches the first 1/2" to 3/4" of hair 'from' the body. When it is warmed up then it speeds the lightening up and the roots lighten faster and lighter than the rest of the hair. HOT ROOTS name stems from the fact that the roots looks hot because they are both on VIRGIN hair AND/OR turn lighter than the rest of the hair. A great solution to that is using one of the many BOOST/BURST combination of hair colors.

 I just continue to receive phone calls from all of you with a new ZEST for your hair color. Letting your gray grow out and trying Rose or one of the many pastels we offer in BOOST AND BURST...........just makes me so proud of everyone. It really does. So many of you are trying colors that you never would have years ago and it is so enlightening to hear.
But, that is the main factor contributing towards that hot button term " HOT ROOTS" ! !! 

 Check out this girls hair cut, to the left. Odd I know, but I have always been partial toward disconnected hair cuts in general because they are so different and as an artist I just happen to love, "different". Its very short in the back ...correct ? With a long fringe (bangs). Disconnected means it does not gradually go from one length to another. .........the sections do not gradually go from one to another or the cut is more disconnected than connected to each others sections or layers. { my descriptions is a little hokey - I hope you understand what I mean}. 

(1)The first application would be approx. 3/4" -- "OFF" the Head - - -  to the ends in the long part of the hair. Going part by part, with either foils for powder lightener for the lengths or using cotton and our violet creme bleach Lightener. Lightening the Lengths first - then the last 30-50 minutes (depending on the virgin Level  - of course)

If you were to apply the lightener to the lengths and the roots AT THE EXACT same time..... which is a mistake many people make.... because you MISSED  that part of the explanation (its very tricky trying to teach these complex techniques over the web - but I try) if you commit to reading all my posts ( read them 2 different days if you have to.....about the subject of "lightening" I am confidant you too....will be able to achieve PLATINUM  NIRVANA. 

So to lighten this particular cut is a bit tricky, but for the sake of our current discussion the cut is exactly what I want you to focus on - while I try to make my point about the "length of hair" VERSUS the Lightening Application.
You don't need as many applications when you have shorter hair .... why?  Because the "heat" from the head warms up any ''lightening'' hair color or lightener needs.........whether it be Oil bleach...bleach....lighter hair color....high-lift hair color.....and that heat from the body makes the color work to lighten to a more extreme version than the lengths of the hair. If this particular girl were to have her entire head of hair the length as it is in the back......lightening would be quite easy, but with the 2 different lengths of hair ............. where do you apply the very first application ??? ( assuming she is a Level 5-6 VIRGIN hair color - a telling sign is eyebrow color many times). 

See this girl to the left ............this is the "HOT ROOTS" result when so many of you want to be lighter and think that if you apply a lighter color of hair color to your entire head of hair that is already colored -- it will go lighter... ( this girl had Level 5 Red-Violet Permanent color on her hair with about 1 1/2" of new growth).  She thought she "could" lighten her hair by applying a Level 8RR on top of her existing color. I receive this question every week for the last decade at least a dozen times a week. The technology does not exist where you can lighten "pre-colored" darker hair by applying lighter color on top. THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS. Besides this weird look , she has added one more layer of color that must be removed in order to fix this. The more layers of color you have on your hair you have to remove............ the more costly it becomes. So there are multiple ways to achieve the "HOT ROOTS" look ! This needs to have all color removed, and so many of you just apply black on top and forget it. My advice? Don't do that ......takes the steps needed ( which are all right here on this Blog) to remove the color and fix your hair once and for all.  . . . . never using Box-O-Crap again. You may now join our new Facebook Group and ask questions of me directly , I'm not fast but I always get there.....! ! !  she click on this link and sign up if you need some help. I hope to re-open my consultations at the beginning of the year.....but we'll see!

So, if for some reason you have the "hot roots'' appearance on your head Which is why and where the Term " HOT ROOTS" comes from. Many of you use that hot roots term, and what it truly means is the roots of your hair are LIGHTER than the rest of your hair. Whether its long or short ......if you have EVER come out of a new color job with very light roots and your lengths are 1-4 levels darker. . . . . you are the proud owner of HOT ROOTS, there multiple reasons for them, I just want many of you to be aware that there is a name for that weird look you may have....and "if" you paid a lot of money and have this look .......PLEASE go back to where you got it done and speak to the manager, the last thing they "should want" is that look on your hair walking around. They should WANT to fix it. I always felt as though my clients hair was my business card and that if it wasn't perfect I would never let them walk out of the Salon. 
So be sure to stick up for yourself. What you want to request afterwards is the best ''Color correction specialist'' in your town, there is almost ALWAYS one of those in every city.

Many of the BOOST/BURST colors will solve issues you have WITHOUT permanently coloring OR altering the hair which is one of the most endearing features of the colors. It is 100% Semi-Permanent, which means it colors the "TOP" of the hair ONLY ! It can be shampooed out completely with absolutely ZERO residue. That is very hard to find in today's world of large hair corporations NOT FOLLOWING the rules of the Hair Color LEVEL SYSTEM which gives Colorists both Crib & Pro an actual system and regimen to go by, where coloring hair is NOT GUESSWORK. It is a system that works, and when followed your results will be perfect and right on the money!

We do have a new category of colors similar to BOOST & BURST.............and of course its name is BLAST !

Blast is 12 color line that is Metallic. It took months to develop and yes, the price is steep. Why? MICA is expensive and if the line takes off, I will be able to purchase it in larger quantities which will bring the price down. it gives the hair a metallic look. These will add a metallic look to your strands, and work the same way as BOOST & BURST.

We are giving everyone in the first couple months 4 free foils with every purchase so that you may run a strand test prior to applying it to the entire head of hair. Just for safety we have all sorts of results and we will give you 10% off your next bottle of BLAST if you will write me a short few sentence review on how it worked, and any suggestions you may have.  Is hard we have tried it on 10 various heads of hair, but in today's world that is nothing, with the wide variety of hair and people out there. 

My goal, as it is always, is to have the best products you can find and I can only do that with feedback from you. Please send your responses to "KC" at  subject : BLAST REVIEW. We will send the code in response. 

I Thank each and everyone of you for supporting our little dog and pony show all year long....we fight the big boys always trying to take over and its not an easy fight. Its no wonder that only 5% of all online businesses make it past 2 years !

That is why I thank you all, because without YOU.......we are nothing. You have helped and you have warmed us all year long and every single one of us THANKS YOU.

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