May 4, 2014

Ratio - Ratio - Who's Got The PROPER Ratio........... of Developer to Haircolor

The Ratio of Developer to hair color is very VERY important and in all this time and in all these Posts I have never stressed the importance of this. That and the way in which you WEIGH your color & developer is also important.


When we all line up and make our Oil Bleach Kits we are making a zillion and one of them. At one point we decided to test iweighed 4 ounces of developer versus 4oz, weigh in a measuring cup. It really is pretty far off. But we send those measuring cups for those who are going to just 'guess'. What we discovered is 4oz. measured in the Cup is 3.6 ounces on the scale. So if you absolutely refuse to get a scale you can make thaty adjustment on your own. The color has been tested over and over at the ratio they give you.

For example in Wella:
  • Color Touch Demi-Permanent is 1:2
  • Koleston Perfect - Permanent, is 1:1.. although all Level 11 & 12 colors are 1:2
  • Illumina is 1:1.5
It is SOOOOO important to get the ratio of developer to color correct. If you ever change lines of color ALWAS read the instruction sheet or the insturctions are printed on the inside of the box for Professional hair color

 Schwarzkopf, the line has the most beautiful colors I have seen in many years, their ratio is 1: 1 and I find many people don't use that ratio which will not let the color do what it was designed to do. 

When using Highlift Level 12 Colors use "double 40" or for every 1 ounce of color you need to use 2 ounces of 40 Volume Or it won't lift high enough.

1 comment on "Ratio - Ratio - Who's Got The PROPER Ratio........... of Developer to Haircolor"
  1. Hello, thank you for the very informativs blog, i feel i have learned so mucu truly. However there is a question that i keep looking for an answer to but so far none has answered. For a someone with a very strong warm pigments in natural hair, who has bleeched blonde hair at level 8. although i have used 8.1 shade ash blonde i still needed around 2-3 toner applications to get rid of the warm tones. My next colour i want it to be level 7 with a very cool undertone so i thought of using pure color mixers in ash & pearl & maybe violet (0/11, 0/88, 0/77) mixed in my 7.1 hair color. However i still do not find instructions for using color shots mixers or what color ratio to use. It is really vague. I hope you would give me some insight into using these. Thank you


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