Understanding Shampoo - through the pH scale - Does Yours Tangle Your Hair?

pH of shampoo - magical-simple-solution to ongoing problem

Shampoo is the number 1 Searched for hair product on Google's big board of HAIR search "tags" and lately "sulfate-free shampoo" has been bumped up to number 2 if you can believe that - - - makes me proud. Which means it comes from you, I like knowing what you want to know more about so I am going to stick with the Big G for reference. This will be a gentle description of the term pH, which is so important when "shine" "health" and "color-lasting" are your goals with your hair. Shampoo is that product that is on your hair more than any single other product, some of you use it every single day. With that being the case I feel I need to teach you all I can about it, which is a new concept for me. When I discovered how important it was on Google's scale of what 'you' look for under hair, I started to re-think my former stance on it. See, I can change - I love technology ever since I started this Blog it has become a new passion of mine. What a lot I have to learn though.
I am going to start on the pH scale as I feel it is so very important to understand in relation to shampoo and hair care products in general . I never know where to start  on this - -  again its the whole "chicken and egg" predicament, lets see how I do.

Potential Hydrogen (pH)


Understanding what pH is and how is affects the skin and hair is essential to understanding most of the services that you get in a Salon or that you perform on your own noggin. This will be a brief overview of pH and how it works so then I will go right into pH and shampoos. I'm using a couple textbooks to help me with this, as much as I understand it, I tried writing my own post on the subject and ended up trashing it, my version was so confusing, I gave it to my neighbor to read and he had the most confused look on his face. So we will go with this and see how it works. Its not necessary to fully understand pH, but I would like you to at least have an idea what it is for future reference. Having the proper pH shampoo makes ALL the difference in the world, as far as tangling and hairs condition at the end of the shampoo.

Many of you have complained about a particular shampoo that is Sulfate-free - thinking the sulfate-free is the cause, which couldn't be farther from the truth. The cause of very tangle-y hair post-shampooing is: improper pH of the shampoo, which is such a simple thing to fix. 


Water and pH
First we need to understand a bit about ions. An ion is an atom or molecule that carries an electrical charge. Ionization is the separating of a substance into ions. These ions have opposite electrical charges... An ion with a negative electrical charge is an anion and an ion with a positive electrical charge is a cation. Now Ions are at the base of that T3 Dryer that is such a big hit now which I will go into at a later date and subject.
In pure water, some of the water molecules naturally ionize into hydrogen ions and hydroxide ions. The pH scale measures those ions. The hydrogen ion (H+) is acidic..the hydroxide ion (OH) is alkaline, pH is only possible because of this ionization of water. Only aqueous solutions have pH, Non-aqueous solutions (oil and alcohol) do not have pH . . . without water there is no pH.

In pure water, every water molecule that ionizes produces one hydrogen ion and one hydroxide ion. Pure water is neutral because it contains the same number of hydrogen ions as hydroxide ions, meaning it is neither acidic nor alkaline. Pure water is 50 percent acidic and 50 % alkaline.

The pH Scale
The terms "parts hydrogen" or "potential hydrogen" are used to describe pH.  In fact, the term pH originates from the French term pouvoir hydrogene , or hydrogen power" and means the relative degree of acidity and alkalinity of a substance. Notice that pH is written with a small p and a capital H ( which represents the hydrogen ion, H+) the symbol pH represents the quantity of hydrogen ions.
The pH values are arranged on a scale ranging from 0 to 14. A pH of 7 indicates a neutral solution, a pH below 7 indicates an acidic solution and a pH above 7 indicates an alkaline solution.
The pH scale is a logarithmic scale, this means that in a pH scale, a change of one whole number represents a tenfold change in pH. A pH of 8 is 10 times more alkaline than a pH of 7...a change of 2 whole numbers indicates a change of 10 times 10 or a one hundred-fold change. A pH of 9  is 100 times more alkaline than a pH of 7.
Pure water, with a pH of 7, is 100 times more alkaline than a pH of 5. Since the average pH of hair and skin is 5, pure water is 100 times more alkaline than your hair and skin, even though it has a neutral pH.
Pure water can cause the hair to swell by as much as 20 percent.

pH and Shampoo
Understanding pH levels will help you select the proper shampoo for yourself . Remember, the amount of hydrogen in a solution, determines whether it is more alkaline or acid, is measured on a pH scale that has a range from 0 to 14.

• a shampoo that is more acid can have a pH rating from 0 to 6.9 
• a shampoo that is more alkaline can have a pH rating from 7.1 to 14.
• The higher the pH rating ( more alkaline), the stronger and harsher the shampoo is to the hair. A high pH shampoo can leave the hair dry and brittle.
• Now why shampoo's don't have pH ratings printed on them instead of all the other words and BS I will never know, this is one of the key measures  of knowing if the shampoo is going to work correctly (of course there are others).
• Ultimate pH for a shampoo you purchase?  5.0 - 6.0

The Chemistry of Shampoos
To determine which shampoo will leave your hair in the best condition, I must explain some of the chemical ingredients regularly found in shampoos. Most shampoo's share many ingredients in common. It is often the small differences in formulation that make one shampoo better than another for a particular hair texture or condition.
Water is the main ingredient in all shampoos and commonly is added at the rate of 30-40% of the formula. Generally it is not just plain water, but purified or de-ionized ( ions removed) water. Water is usually the first ingredient listed, which indicates that the shampoo contains more water than anything else. From there on, ingredients are listed in descending order, according to the percentage of each ingredient in the shampoo or formula. This is how it is 'supposed' to be done but I would guess 8 times out of 10 it is not. Regulating hundreds of thousands of beauty products would require every single agency of the government shutting down and helping the FDA, it is virtually impossible, so it basically self-governed and you can imagine how successful and correct that maneuver is.

Surfactants
The second ingredient that most shampoos have in common is the primary surfactant or base detergent. These 2 terms, surfactant and detergent mean the same thing: cleansing or "surface active" agent.
A surfactant molecule has two ends" a hydrophilic or water-attracting "head" and a lipophilic or oil-attracting "tail". During the shampoo process, the hydrophilic head attracts water, and the lipophilic tail attracts OIL, this creates a push-pull process that causes the oils, dirt, and deposits to roll up into little balls that can be lifted off in the water and rinsed from the hair ( see the photos).

Other ingredients are added to the base surfactants to create a wide variety of shampoo formulas. Moisturizers, oils, proteins, preservatives, foam enhancer's and perfumes are all standard components of shampoos. On a previous post I listed 12 or surfactants that are considered safe, I have worked with each one and to be perfectly honest, shampoo's are not my forte...but wanted to just see - feel - smell and observe the materials with hair under the scope - for my own security - in  recommending them.  I know that probably sounds super UN-scientific, but I feel that is what these super cosmetic chemists - miss. Just plain common sense issues, like the scent of a particular ingredient being so caustic, how could it possibly be gentle enough for hair. Or the texture of this is so rough and the scent so strong, there just has to be a better choice. That is what began my suspicions with Sodium Lauryl Sulfates 7 years ago.  When I opened the jar and seriously, could not take a breath of air it was honestly that burning to the skin in my nostrils, . . . that alone was a huge red 'common sense' - flag. Why no one but me - started talking about it, I will never know .
Yes, later there have come many "Safe Cosmetics" organizations ... but they don't do it right either - They go the complete opposite direction and think everything is bad, and that's not at all how it works, either.  Not everything is bad or unsafe. . .that is as bad of a generalization as the other groups missing the dangers of SLS - it truly is. You can't 'ban' everything, that is the way politicians work...we have no room for that in cosmetics.  I just want to begin explaining this to you, its a big concept but many of you seem eager to learn it, I thought it would bore you all so earlier I decided not to open the bag, besides its bad for business . . . all the big companies won't advertise on my site because I say Boxed hair color kits are horrific - but look at me will ya ? ?  I can't keep my mouth shut!  It would make my life a whole lot easier, if I just conformed and didn't talk about them - I would be making a lot better income off of advertising on this site. This has now become a very well known hair web site, I get lots and lots of traffic everyday without the big boys advertising on my site - but I am trying to break into the next level and get some big advertisers on my site, it won't happen as long as I leave the info up about how bad boxed hair color kits are. But If I don't tell you the truth, you will never get it, and that really is pointless to me.  So . . .  there is the truth. I need your support and I need to know you all want to know the truth in this info - so I know I am doing it for you and you care.
 
There are many "natural" ingredients that are very harsh as well, that just should not be what you look for.  "Natural" and "organic" are the most fought about topics / the most argued over words in the cosmetics business right now. Every single month in my trade magazines will be another view on what one more group thinks the word "natural" and "organic" means - - please take that into consideration. Those words will never be the answer to the problem, so drop that theory.
Technically as I've said before . . . water is not really 'technically' natural - as funny as that sounds ... it does not come from nature - - it comes from the heavens. With scientists you should hear them fight over the word, it will simply - - - NEVER BE SOLVED  - - ever. I feel both sides have valid points, so its simply time to move on from it.
Remember that there are also harsh and incompatible ingredients in nature for your hair, its needs to be a very simple study and honest reviewed by a competent cosmetic chemist that is not funded by any of the big corporate manufacturers, that is hard to find.
Begin and never stop reading the ingredients on the label, you must -  you must - you must. I fully realize they seem intimidating, BUT that is how I started and a very famous cosmetic chemist told me when I began, just start reading and saying them - over & over & over, they begin to sink in eventually. . .



I never took chemistry in school I was terrified of the "word'', but you know what? He was 100% correct. I couldn't pronounce Sodium Lauryl Sulfates,  and now I now the names of about 15 sulfates by memory... remember I was raised a jock not an academic - so there is no one this is more foreign to, than me. It will make you feel proud of yourself the first time you pipe off the name of one of these scientific names with confidence - and YOU WILL! Talk to your girlfriends about them, people want to know about this subject, you become the new expert in your group of friends . . . that's how we all get smarter and all start helping each other have better hair. Wouldn't you rather be "looking' at nice hair when standing in lines at the Grocery store?

I sure would - - it comes from proper education - that's the compliments I receive from 'you' - the readers - - all the time.

Understanding pH Teaches You How to Care for Hair Correctly

Fight the Fade 

 

 

 

Prolong Hair Color with the Power of pH

 pH value is between 0 and 14, 
a pH value of 7.0 is considered neutral
all values below neutral are acidic 
and 
all values above are alkaline. 
An 
acidic solution has a positive electrical charge (+)
and an 
alkaline solution has a negative electrical charge (-)

Healthy Hair Vs. Damaged Hair

• Normal, healthy hair has a pH value of between 4.5 and 5.5 and is considered acidic. 
• Hair in this state will be positively charged (+) and has a compact cuticle structure. 
• The outside cuticle layer is closed and smooth, promoting a natural, healthy shine.
• The internal cortex is protected, and moisture levels are maintained, ensuring good strength and elasticity. 
• Healthy hair has even, normal porosity and provides a good base for chemical services.

Damaged hair has pH value above 7.0 
& 
is negatively charged (-). 

The cuticle layer is raised with a dull/matt surface. 

The raised cuticle layer can catch, resulting in tangled hair with a high susceptibility to mechanical damage – caused by combing or other external influences. In addition, the cortex will be exposed to further damage, in danger of losing essential moisture and becoming dry or brittle. 

Damaged hair will be very porous and provides a poor surface for chemical treatments, with potentially uneven results.
 


pH and Products

As the majority of hair products are a solution, and therefore have a pH value, it follows that this can influence the condition of hair.

Chemical treatments, such as a lightener, perm or color, are deliberately alkaline, or have a pH value higher than the hair’s natural value. This causes the cuticle layer to open up, allowing the product to enter the inner hair structure. It is therefore essential to thoroughly rinse the hair following a chemical process and apply a good re-structuring pH balancing Conditioner like INTENSIVE

 Care products of various brands are predominantly acidic, and have an astringent effect on the hair, closing the cuticle layer. Shampoos will typically have a pH value close to the hair’s natural level, promoting gentle cleansing. Conditioners and treatments however, have a higher acid value, helping to return damaged, hair back to a normal, healthy condition.

Hair Color & pH 
When hair is colored, the pH increases from an optimum value of 4.5 – making it more alkaline and during color development, the outer and inner hair structure is loosened up in order for color pigments to penetrate the hair. For this reason a conditioner or treatment after a color service helps to reset the hair to the optimum pH value of 4.5.

What is the pH of the Hair and Scalp?

Maintaining the correct pH value of the hair & scalp is essential for the overall health of hair. Hair products can control the pH of hair.

What is Neutral pH?
A pH of 7 is chemically neutral. Hair care products with a pH value in between 3.5 and 5.5 are considered as being beneficial for hair care products.

Variations in pH
When pH value drops below 6.0 the cuticle layer contracts and tightens. A mild acidic conditioner (lower than pH 7) can help to add shine to the hair, as a smooth surface is able to reflect more light; strong acids will however damage the hair. Acid conditioners should not be used when red/orange tones have been added to the hair, instead use a color-specific care range.

When pH value becomes more alkaline (above 7.0) the cuticle layer softens and expands like a pinecone. This is necessary as part of the coloring process in order to deposit pigments within the hair structure, however if the pH becomes too alkali, damage will occur.

 Also many 'form' products make use of the effect of alkali pH values on hair.

Hair with a very alkaline, porous structure will not retain color effectively. In this instance the cuticle will fail to hold the new pigments, which will ultimately rinse out prematurely.

Following your own little hair diagnosis you now have the education I provide you.... to care for your hair yourself. I am hoping with my instruction and many Posts on the importance of pH you will begin to take it seriously and realize how important it is in the end result and look + health of your hair. 

YOU CAN NOW PREVENT DAMAGE & KEEP HAIR LOOKING AMAZING by keeping it pH balanced.

Understanding Hair and Scalp Types

In this post we explore how to understand and care for, the typical range of hair and scalp types.

The sebaceous gland plays an important role in determining hair and scalp type. The production of sebum is a natural process that adds strength and lustre to hair strands. However, diet, blood circulation, emotional distress and drugs and the aging process can all influence production. Salon products are designed specifically to compliment individual needs and work toward producing strong, healthy, naturally beautiful hair. Hair and Scalp types fall into the following broad categories:

Oily
Over-active sebaceous glands produce an excess quantity of sebum, which can make hair limp and lank. This may be due to hormonal changes, often evident during puberty or menopause. Many people have a naturally oily scalp, which can result in greasy hair. Fair hair is much finer than dark hair, hence is more susceptible to excess oil.

High quality shampoos cleanse without stripping the hair of essential moisture and nutrients.

Dry
Dry hair looks dull and lifeless and is also more susceptible to breakage. Dry hair can only be stretched 15% of its overall length before breaking, while healthy hair can be stretched up to twice this amount, more when wet! A common cause of dry hair is dehydration; water retention can measure between 4 and 13% of overall hair volume.

A change in lifestyle can make all the difference, and there are many products available to help nourish the cortex and smooth cuticles. If you purchase our 400-WATT Kit you go from   lifeless - dull hair to most-likely the best your hair has ever looked.

Me trying to sell you on it, is not nearly as helpful to you as one of our new customer s words which I want to show you now an example of the many emails I receive each and every week for over 8 years now...........

DEAR KILLERSTRANDS,

wow, what can I say the 400 Watt package I purchased is amazin, as I am sure you already know but I wanted to send you photos of what just one treatment of all 3  products did for my hair.  I have the before and the after here for you to see.  Now I will tell you that I am 50 years of age and I do color and get highlights in my hair and I thought my hair was in fairly good shape but wow, again its all I can say, love love love these products. 

I have included 3 photos

1.  Before killer strands products, I wanted to have a before and after to see how they would work.  you can see I have a bit of your Breaking Bad Blue on the bottom portion of my hair and there are subtle highlights throughout my hair.

2.  This is a photo after the full process

3.  Another photo slightly closer angle so you can see my hair better. As I said blond highlights throughout but your BBB is on the lower portion of my hair I get so many complements on this. 

With Intensive I noticed right away I could run a comb through my hair after my shower which I have not been able to do without product for as long as I can remember.  Then I left the Thriven in for about 3 hours and that made my hair even softer then I let it dry and when it was almost dry I added a few drops of gleam and it just finished it off beautifully.  My hair was somewhat dry before but now it is soft and gorgeous.  I cant wait to see how much more it will improve as I use these regularly.  I will never stop taking good care of my hair now that I have found the right products, and believe me I have tried many over the years.  No contest, you have Killer products.  My heart felt thanks to you for this. 

I want to do more highlights throughout my hair so that the colors I buy from you Burst come through more effectively.  I have now purchased the Sex in the Driveway and the Violet Pilot.  I have to tell you that now I want to buy

Icey Silver

Adios Mutha Fucka

and Frosty Magenta

Ok as I said I wanted to show you how ab fab your product worked out on my hair thank you so much.

xoxoxox,

Titania

07/28/2015

 Normal Hair

Normal hair is shiny, supple and good looking and is the result of a well-balanced, healthy lifestyle, combined with good hair care using the right products.

Mixed Condition
Over-active sebaceous glands and poor scalp condition may create a glut of sebum; this can be absorbed back into the scalp, preventing essential oils from traveling the length of the hair strand. The scalp in this condition is a common cause of Pityriasis steatoides. Mixed condition hair types have dry, frizzy ends that are prone to breaking, with oily roots. In this scenario application techniques are very important when applying products to ensure the problem area is targeted.

Our Gleam and the Kaaral Scalp scrub will pretty much take care of any scalp conditions one may find......So with the 4 products you can solve all problems and have the healthiest/shiniest and most beautiful hair of your life. 



That's pretty simple in most people's book....AND.........

AND..............................you CAN DO IT AT HOME ! ! ! !  

KC

1 Trick I Think I Have Forgotten To Mention In All These Years . . . .

Immediately after you 
color your hair . . .  . . . . . . what do you do?

 You apply a pH balanced conditioner


... the pH of Coloring products ranges from 8 - 9.5 .... so always use a pH balanced conditioner like INTENSIVE  to restore the natural pH of 4.5-5.5 to the hair. 

 The benefits being?????

• it closes the cuticle
• restores the pH balance to the hair AND 
• will help to prevent moisture loss and
• prevent Color fade

and the most important fact is......................

DO NOT WASH THE HAIR FOR 48 HOURS

.........IN OTHER WORDS THERE SHOULD BE no shampoo used IN THE ENTIRE DAY OF COLORING YOUR HAIR


YOU RINSE THE COLOR OUT FOR 5 MINUTES OR UNTIL THE WATER RUNS COMPLETELY CLEAR................


THEN APPLY INTENSIVE FOR 15 MINUTES TO 15 HOURS

THEN RINSE WITH WATER..................PERIOD!


zero shampoo 
and i just figured out
 i don't think 
i have ever said this

 ;( KC

KillerStrands Most Powerful Step : After Every Time You Color Your Hair...

Colour After-Treatment Process 

Throughout these posts you may find my views different from the norm, that would stem from specializing in 3 fields instead of one. More often than not I eliminate useless steps and tasks purely developed for tacking on a few extra bucks to a bill or invoice. That just was never me. I work on the theory: the better the job I do, the more people will flock to me, that theory has worked well in life for me.

No sooner said....I am asking you to add a step to your regimen you most likely have never heard of. I would be surprised if many stylists use this step routinely it adds 'time constraints' to an already overcrowded day usually, it is just as important as a neutralizer is with a perm, in my opinion....basically its the same thing.

This is something every person with $150 - $350. highlights should be aware of. Choose your words carefully when trying to find out if your stylist does the step. Be nice!

An after-treatment is absolutely necessary for oxidative hair colour treatment ( which is any color with peroxide). Only with these after-treatments can residues of hydrogen peroxide, alkali or perusulfate's (bleach) be removed. When you put your hair through the coloring process you are shaking up the pH level. After a color, perm, straightening or any chemical process is complete the hair goes into a type of 'mini-shock' and the single best way to 'un-shock' and restore & relax your hair to its original pH level is to apply one of these 'post'-treatment's for 10-20-30 minutes.Depending on the procedure I would even consider wearing IN-TENSIVE overnight to really keep the hair in a stage of BLISS ....Just try it once, it truly is the most remarkable of all my discoveries I feel.

Its really very simple after your last rinse you apply the product to hair, comb thru, leave on: 10-20-30 minutes and rinse. That's it, you're ready to go and your hair is one happy damn camper!

Effects of an after-treatment:
Removes hydrogen peroxide, alkali, and peroxide residues.
Closes the cuticle layer and give the hair shine
Stabilises colour for longer durability of the colour
Protects from creeping oxidation
Makes the hair easier to comb

The trick here is using the right product..it must have the correct ingredients to accomplish the process. There are hundreds of lines of colour...Matrix, Redken, Clairol, Framesi,  each one makes an after-treatment product. Its just not one of those "glitzy" packages or marketing wonders that drown our universe. But a very necessary part of the process for healthy hair. We now make our own product we call IN.TENSIVE that is our number 1 seller here at Killerstrands. Here is the link, as this product works so many wonders you are going to wonder how you eve survived without it.
Take me to IN.TENSIVE in KS store . . .

Killer Strands is located in the heart of L.A. so we have access to many wonderful sources. But, my goal for this site is ...I'd like this site to work for everyone, across the country.

                                 See The Peek-A-Boo Strands of Light Bronze under the dark midnite color so many things can be done to hair now a days it truly is this giant Canvas with a million different brushes to choose from. . . .

So now we have put this after-treatment product together for you - - so everyone is able to have the most fan-tab-u-lous After-Color Treatment in the world  - -  at their very own home.
This little trick of mine, using a "post-color treatment after every single hair coloring will keep your hair strong shiny and undamaged....it truly is, one of the best kept secrets on the hair planet!
This is an excellent After-Treatment, it deals with the pH level better than anything I have found.

Remember, having your hair at the proper pH level (slightly acidic - 4.5 to 5.5) produces shiny-healthy-happy hair.

KC

Killer Chemist

Killerstrands Professional Hair Color ( at home) - Top 10 Suggestions for Success

 Vibrant, Professional Hair Color is possible without visiting the Salon. Just follow these 10 Steps to ensure you get the results of your dreams ( and not your nightmares)

Prepare a "Color Cave", that you plan to use each month. Use old towels, old t-shirts & an old sheet for the floor. Hide anything and everything that's within dye splashing distance. Now that I am a Crib Colorist myself. . .  I play with different methods every 60 days !  Remember if your formula is correct then it should surely last 60 days. Last months Color was done with old Beach towels spread out over all my bathroom shelves and products (a great result).  Be sure to invest in a hands-free... rear-view mirror if you don't have help with the back of your hair. We have the one I use - personally, in the store. These mirrors are also wonderful for blow-drying and styling hands-free.....never go out of the house without a look in the "rear-view mirror" ! I have had be for 20 years, you will wonder how you ever made it without it after trying it for a week. You earn your money back in a single month by all the tricks you can do with it.

Begin with clean, dry hair that's free of styling product build-up - for super gunked up hair - I have used many of the products by Malibu 2000 for many years . . .  Such as COLOR PREP Treatments packs, when doing hair color for big photo shoots or TV commercials we will begin the process with an application to have completely stripped down hair. 

The advantages?

why you need it

• readies hair for unprecedented color absorption, coverage and retention
• extends vibrancy
• prevents brassiness, dullness and discoloration
• accelerates color-processing time
• protects scalp from itching and burning caused by harsh oxidizing chemicals

key benefits:

• 100% Vegan, food-grade, Ecocert, wellness ingredients
• features a highly advanced blend of vitamin antioxidants and botanical nutrients
• activates on the spot for maximum potency
• free of preservatives, parabens, propylene glycol, salts, DEA, gluten and fragrance
• hermetically sealed, eco-friendly, travel-ready packaging
• safe for all ages, all hair types (except white, non-pigmented hair)

key ingredients:

• ascorbic acid – nature-identical vitamin C, freshly activated for topical use – removes damaging water deposits and purifies hair and scalp
• betaine - improves hair’s texture and softness with superior, penetrating moisture retention
• panthenol -  pro-vitamin B5 absorbs deep into the hair shaft to repair hair and improve moisture retention

The 24 hour Patch Test. There is a lot of controversy about this step... legally - it should be applied before every single color service, although if it was, 90% of clients would stand up and walk out on you. I learned that the hard way coming out of Academy. Therefore, what to do??? 
24 hours before applying color and especially if you have any type of sensitivities / allergies to products of any type - I highly suggest mixing up a super small batch of the product you'll be using to check for an adverse reaction. Smear a small amount behind the ear and covering it with a band aid for 24 hours, its only 1 little day. If any irritation occurs, wash it off ASAP and do NOT use...Yes, its rare - super rare ... but if you are the one .. it can save you some heartache.

 

Strand Test. The difference between its cousin - -above?? One is on skin........ the other on the hair. Big difference. The one above you are testing to make sure your skin/hair will not have a negative reaction to the hair color. For this little guy you are testing to see if you get the color you desire with your present idea for a formula. I am very much in favor of this one. I will get emails all the time, from people who have destroyed their entire head of hair......I always ask: 'did you run a strand test' ?? THIS TEST WILL SAVE YOURSELF A WORLD OF HURT when NEW to Professional Home Hair Color. TAKE THE TIME TO RUN THIS - it will take you all of 1 hour.  For "strand tests" - apply a tiny batch of product to the hair in the back of the ear and underneath, using a foil to cover,process for complete time. Be sure to set TIMER, checking twice throughout developing process. The sun, products, and previous color can all affect your results and timing ... it will give you an idea of the final result before you commit yourself.

 

Plenty of product.
 If hair is long or thick, have 2 tubes of color on hand you can always use the 2nd tube next time if you don't need it all, pr the best news is our NEWEST Star Hair Color, that we refer to as X.Factor - -  the tube is a whopping 3.5 ounces - its HUUUGE! It is almost 2 tubes in one for a super good price. Best part about it? Shiny - long-lasting hair color. A couple people have had a bit of a learning curve with the new ratio it comes with. Which is 1: 1.5. So with 1 ounce of haircolor you are to use 1 and a half ounces of developer. We are now enclosing a business card you can put on your fridge - which spells out how much you should use at every level !  Saving partial tubes are done all the time in professional color or remember tinting your eyebrows is always recommended by the top pros. Its no longer having the carpet match the drapes, its having the shutters match the drapes! Even more desired!

6 Barrier Cream application is mandatory around hairline, to prevent color-run and to soften the color hairline . Always applying the color up to & over the hairline for security. Using this cream prevents the dreaded skin stain which results from a clients very dry skin & new color application. We have a couple different types of this . . . the one by Repelle is my fav., it is like a giant Lip Balm stick making it easy to crank up and draw around the hairline. To me??? Time is always money!.

You know. . . .  I've tried lots of the 'home remedies' - - honestly - something made just for the occasion is easier and more effective.

 

Proper Tools make life easy and home coloring possible. Be sure to have at least 2-3 "tail" combs at all times for hair coloring. That and the # 11 comb for parting and distributing dye throughout the hair and scalp - which we give to you free ON REQUEST !      Plenty of strong 3 inch clips (longer hair), foils, hand towels, tint bowls, tint brushes, Timer, measure cup, etc. All supplies are inexpensive and can be purchased for very decent prices at our store.

http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/collections/tools-and-supplies 

Never leave Tint on for longer than recommended time - that's not how it works, and it won't give you a richer, darker shade. The manufacturer's directions are on the "inside" of the box normally- they have tested their product and know it well - if you follow them exactly you will have the best results. Rinse in the manner it quotes, and 'when' you should, so make sure you have that timer visible from your Color Cave!

 
Always use a Post Color Treatment. Our own INTENSIVE is as GOOD as there is...the way it fly's outta here, you would think it was free- it is a triple-threat.....1) conditioner and 2) pH balancer and most importantly 3) a Color Lock..... I speak about it frequently, this step is out of my "SUCCESS IN COLOR ARSENAL - I never thought I would reveal. Neither of my mentors practice it and I've always felt it was a true healthy hair gold mine of yours truly, the dear Killer Chemist. Since I revealed it - I fully expect you > to run out, buy it and USE IT !! 

ooooops, if you do have a mishap,  we have a couple of Solutions to help . . . 

~ we have the GROUP......join that for support - research & questions

~ you may TEXT the store.......

~ you may ask simple questions when submitting your order

Be sure you have read and followed my directions-advice and writings....I am finding what I call Color Cowboys, they decide,"yee haw" what the Hell, it can't be that hard.....and they just power through without reading a thing. OK, I take that back, they have read 1 or 2 posts and decided they have got it down. Where the rest of you have been good students - reading - asking questions, signed up to the Forum/Group.... then made your attempt at being a CC > Crib Colorist!...with wonderful success.
I WANT YOU ALL TO SUCCEED, I swear . . . .so I have tried multiple different offerings for different types of people 

We have a couple disaster stories displayed yet I have received many more success stories than disasters - I didn't have the Forum going yet.

For everyone interested in discussing

• hair color

• hair health


• hair education of products and their ingredients


• hair styling & tools


• hair growth ( women) 12 step miracle program

Please join the forum/Group that coincides with this Blog...of the same name: Killerstrands

http://groups.google.com/group/killerstrands/about

Good Luck and Keep reading and Learning


KillerChemist

Summer Hair Care for Olympian Locks: Beijing's & the USA's

How Water & Its minerals can affect your Hair + the 1st Step To Perfect Hair Color

As a former professional athlete the Olympics are the most incredible Television they could plant in front of me, I'm in heaven. What about Olympic hair that must go through so much...watching the swimmers & divers hit me, its time I give my southern California advice on water logged hair solutions. Spending time with the Malibu water polo team and helping their hair routine 8 years ago - gives me a bit of history with the subject. Water Polo is huge in all the local schools its such great exercise for kids. But the hair must be taken care of, healthy happy shiny hair is still a goal of most every kid once they hit about 13. This way the kids can still color their hair, I never think a sport should curtail your regular life and vice versa. Hair color is possible but the condition of the hair when you are in and out of chlorinated pools, diving - swimming - Jacuzzi's - water parks must be watched. Your hair takes a beating and in particular your hair color. My protocol works perfectly, if you follow it exactly. Sitting watching the Games I made a list of every water activity I could think of to see if this was warranted...

That's a lot of people doing a whole lot of water related activities all hell on hair, so here we go ... then we'll get back to "Highlights are History"- promise
Most of the people in the United States are using well water or hard water and that is only in your house, can you imagine what the water is like that is used in public places. It gives me the shivers.
All public water locations should have a water treatment service taking care of the water and running pH and other tests to keep the water at the right levels. I am told that blond hair should not even turn green if the levels are correct, if hair is turning green it means the levels of copper in the pool are too high. It may be that the water is too acidic (low pH) and that this is coming from the corroding fittings of the heater, so the solution is simple. Alternatively you may be over-using algaecide's that are copper-based, so never knowing this before, I've always reverted to Malibu 2000 and other tricks. Lets look at our water and what it can cause and create.
Over 85% of the population in the U.S., according to the Water Quality Association, are bathing with hard water. While hard water is fine for drinking, it can cause many problems for your hair, scalp and skin.
These problems include:

• Hair feels dry
• Hair is resistant to color
• Dandruff or eczema of the scalp
• Dry, flaky skin
• Thinning hair
• Colors fading too quickly
• Discoloration or darkening of hair
• Hair lacks body and shine

HOW YOUR WATER AFFECTS YOUR HAIR

The water you use to wash your hair, scalp, and skin comes from one of two sources:

• Ground Water
• Surface Water

Ground Water
If your water comes from the ground, it is either from your own well or from the local treatment plant that derives the water from wells pumping water from the ground. The source of ground water is from rain passing through aquifers, which are layers of minerals. The acidity (pH below 7) of the rain increases the dissolving effect of minerals. These dissolved solids are found in the water when pumped above the ground and used to bathe.
Surface Water
If your water comes from the treatment plant which derives the water from a surface source, the water is coming from either a river or a lake. Surface water usually contains less minerals because the water has not filtered down through the mineral layers. However, increasing populations are polluting the water causing additional bacteria growth. As a result, the treatment plants must add more chlorine to kill bacteria and then add lime (a calcium compound) to help control the chlorine levels.
Water hardness is determined by the level of calcium that is in the water either found naturally from the ground or put into the water by the treatment plant.
While calcium is the element that determines hardness of water, there are many other elements in the water that effect the texture, volume, shine, control and health of hair.
What are the minerals that effect hair?

• Calcium
• Iron
• Copper
• Magnesium
• Silica
• Lead

What other elements effect hair?

• Chlorine -a harsh oxidizer added to the water to kill bacteria also adversely effects hair.

How do minerals and chlorine attach to the hair?
Our hair, scalp and skin have an electrical charge and that charge is negative. Minerals and oxidizers are charged positive. When a positively charged mineral comes in contact with our hair, scalp, or skin, it attaches on like a magnet.

How do hard water minerals and chlorine effect hair?
Calcium - If your source for water is a well, then more than likely you have calcium in your water. If your source for water is coming from a treatment plant, calcium may have been added to your water. Calcium is the mineral that determines hardness of water.
How calcium effects hair:

• Calcium leaves the hair feeling dry and weighted down. It can even cause a perm to appear relaxed.
• Calcium builds up on the scalp causing flaking of the scalp, giving the appearance of dandruff.
• Calcium can choke the hair at the mouth of the follicle causing the hair to break off, then coating the scalp, blocking further new hair growth.

Iron - Iron is found in ground water from domestic wells and wells used by treatment plants as the source for local water.
How iron effects hair:

• Iron leaves the hair feeling dry, brittle and weighted down.
• Iron can cause dark hair to tint darker and blonde hair to turn orange, sometimes I think this is many readers problem.
• Iron can color from properly processing.

Copper - Copper originates in water in three ways:

1. It comes from the ground and is pumped into the water from a well.
2. Particles of copper can come from copper piping. The corrosion caused by hard water lifts the copper particles off the pipes and deposits them into the water.
3. Copper sulfates are added to swimming pools to control the growth of algae. Copper is often added to lakes (that are a source of drinking water) in the summer to kill algae.

How copper effects hair:

• Copper discolors hair causing blonde hair to turn green and dark hair to tint darker - the reason for that Green!
• Copper can weigh hair down and cause dryness.
• Copper can inhibit the proper processing of color and relaxers.

Magnesium - Usually found wherever calcium comes naturally from the ground, magnesium is abundant in the soil and is very much a part of the mineral complex associated with hard water.
How magnesium effects hair:

• Magnesium causes hair to feel dry.
• Magnesium causes hair to appear weighted down.
• Magnesium can inhibit the proper processing of color and relaxers.
• Magnesium causes hair to lack shine.

Silica - Silica is a sand-like substance found in desert or volcanic areas. It is usually bound to calcium or magnesium and forms very hard, virtually insoluble deposits.
How silica effects hair:
Silica causes many of the same effects on the hair as calcium.

• Silica causes hair to feel dry.
• Silica weighs hair down.
• Silica can cause dandruff-like symptoms of flaking.
• Build up of silica can choke the hair follicle causing hair to fall out.

Lead - Lead acetate is used in certain home remedy gray hair cover-ups - like Grecian Formula or JUST FOR MEN. They used lead to make the color work which screws up your hair for everything else. I believe they got sued and are in the process of changing those boxed kits.
How lead effects hair:

• Lead can cause the hair to feel dry.
• Lead can prevent the proper processing of perms, color, and relaxers.

Chlorine - unlike the other elements listed above, chlorine is not a mineral but an oxidizer. Chlorine is put into drinking water and swimming pools to kill bacteria. In addition to the following effects chlorine has on hair, due to it's oxidizing effects, chlorine also oxidizes minerals onto the hair causing worse effects of those minerals.
How chlorine effects hair:

• Active chlorine in the hair can cause hair to feel gummy when wet and straw-like when dry.
• Chlorine can damage the cuticle and proteins of the hair.
• As an oxidizer, chlorine can cause the air and sun to oxidize hair and worsen the conditions listed above.
• Chlorine can cause hair to feel dry.
• Chlorine can cause hair to become brittle.
• Chlorine can cause hair to lack shine.

Chlorine will be on of the highest ingredients in public water as they are trying to prevent bacteria and infection. So getting that off of your hair immediately is very important.
2008 OLYMPIAN Water Repair YO Hair Trick
What I had my water polo players do for Hair
<> works at the Gold Medal Level ! :

• while dry, wet hair with bottled water(or similar-not pool)
• apply a handful of hair conditioner, we used KeraCare's Humecto daily conditioner -- a 5 lb. tub is available and it works Xcellent- have the coach buy one for the team to use
• apply rubber swim cap - tuck in hair
• when finished, have large bottle of "SODA WATER" available(carbonated) pour & rinse thru hair - stops chlorine from doing any damage
• take Shower immediately, shampoo with Malibu 2000 Well Water or Swimmers Shampoo - Sulfate-free all of them
• Use THRIVEN 1-2 times per week

With this Solution, you will have NO hair damage
Water Polo Players are treacherous on their hair, they are in the pool all the time so its a great gage for anyone below their level of chlorinated water time.
Now this works for general hair protection in water sports.
++ TREATMENT FOR WATER ALTERED HAIR
If you feel the water in your home has built up on your hair, something we do before coloring Celeb's hair is apply different water treatment packs. Which I am happy to make available to you. The problem with having them done in a Salon for you and me? The cost and the time, it adds at least another hour to your time in the Salon and anywhere from $30 to $80.
Making these available to you at home, I will sell the individual treatments to you for $3.50 plus they can be put in a regular mailing envelope so the shipping can be $1.50 for 1 treatment. That is pretty incredible. I will list the various treatments and tell you they are super SIMPLE to apply... just time consuming - perfect for at home application. If you are applying your hair color ( which I hope ) apply the treatment the night before, then get up and color your hair > Perfect Plan! Wait till you see how much better your hair color comes out if you pre-treat your hair - its a treat and yes its worth the time and effort. Try it once, its a small investment.
COLOR PREPARE -1st STEP TO PERFECT HAIR COLOR
What It Is:
A patented, fresh-dried vitamin complex that dissolves into a gel in the palms of the hands forming a rich lathering treatment specifically formulated for hair prior to every color service in the salon, at home or when traveling to assure predictable and successful color results.
What It Does:

• Prepares hair for superior color
• Gently yet effectively removes minerals from hair that inhibit proper processing of color
• Extends life of vibrant color to prevent fading
• Helps prevent brassiness or discoloration
• Accelerates processing time of color
• Protects scalp from itching or burning caused by oxidizing chemicals

Blondes Weekly Brightener

A patented, fresh-dried vitamin complex that dissolves into a gel in the palms of the hands forming a rich lathering treatment specifically formulated for blonde and highlighted hair to be used in the salon, at home or when traveling to brighten and increase shine/ vibrancy while helping to prevent damage from environmental elements in the air and water.
What It Does:

• Immediately brightens blonde and highlighted hair
• Removes & prevents hard water mineral build-up that can dull blonde & highlighted hair
• Immediately restores vibrant color and radiant shine
• Improves flow and movement of hair
• Prevents dry-feeling hair

SWIMMERS SOLUTION - AFTER SWIM TREATMENT

A patented, fresh-dried vitamin complex that dissolves into a gel in the palms of the hand forming a rich lathering treatment specifically formulated for swimmers to be used in the salon, at home or at the pool after swimming to remove and prevent all the elements from pool, spa or ocean water that can otherwise damage and discolor hair.
What It Does:

• Immediately removes chlorine and mineral build-up from swimmers’ hair to help restore health and wellness to hair and scalp
• Removes chlorine and bromine that can otherwise oxidize and dry hair
• Helps prevent brittle, damaged hair
• Removes copper build-up to lift green discoloration
• Restores vibrancy to hair color
• Dramatically improves look and feel of hair
• Helps reduce itching and scalp irritation

HARD WATER DE-MINERALIZER
What It Is:
A patented, fresh-dried vitamin complex that dissolves into a gel in the palms of the hands forming a rich lathering treatment specifically formulated for hair shampooed in hard water or exposed to water softeners that use salt and/or phosphates. May be used in the salon, at home or when traveling to lift surface minerals and oxidizers, remove discoloration, brighten and increase shine/vibrancy while helping to prevent damage from environmental elements in the air and water.
What It Does:

• Removes all hard water minerals that can discolor or damage hair
• Eliminates brassiness
• Normalizes hair texture
• Revitalizes shine and manageability
• Restores flow and movement of hair
• Prevents dry-feeling hair

Features & Benefits:

• Safely restores natural color
• Makes hair feel lighter after removing hard water minerals
• Formulated with a patented, nature-identical Vitamin C Complex
• Food-grade, wellness ingredients
• Preservative-Free, Fragrance-Free, Sulfate-Free

Please State when you are taken to PAY PAL which of the treatments you would Like, Thank You