Reachin for Bleachin' - Why Is My Hair Yellow & Not Beige-Blonde ??

How light is "white"
when bleaching the hair the only answer is "WHITE"like you see in this photo - everyone can achieve this.You MUST use an oil bleach to protect the hair from damage though!

Lighteners / Decolorizing

Lighteners are the chemical compounds that lighten hair by decolorizing the natural hair pigment. I try to explain hair color education in as many ways as I can possibly think of to help everyone understand the theory behind it.

 I like you to understand so it helps you learn how to get yourself out of problem situations. I listen to how distraught everyone is and it really breaks my heart, so the more I teach the more I want you to do your part and READ ! ! 

In order for me to explain what "blonde hair" IS.... I need you to think of hair strands as tubes..... Picture color in tubes, and lets just say the tubes are hair strands.....those hair strands (or tubes are filled up with hair color or pigment that IS your hair naturally, or if its  colored then you have put in there by applying some of your old hair color applications....

 Make sense so far?

Then here comes the Tint brush with the lightener and developer mixed with it to be applied to those tubes....or hair strands.....as soon as the lightener formula (powder or liquid) is mixed with the hydrogen peroxide, it begins to release oxygen. This process is known as oxidation, they call permanent hair color of ANY type ....OXIDATIVE hair coloring.....because of that process that takes place at just that moment.... and it is permanent.......because it occurs within the cortex of the hair shaft.

Hair lighteners are used to create a very light blonde shade that is not achievable with permanent hair color and it is referred to as Bleach. Bleach means lighten if you look the word up up in the dictionary....it does not mean all the terrible things everyone has conjured up in your minds. The one and only reason you have terrible things conjured up is beCAUSE some damn hairstylist has applied bleach and then done what you are not supposed to do she OVERLAPS it the next time she gives you a re-touch..... 

...........and having lightened hair means you are NOT supposed to lighten it on top of the already lightened part AGAIN ! ! ! You are only supposed to lighten the dark part...... and THAT is what gives you a bad feeling about Bleach. Its the Hair Stylist who applied it incorrectly. It actually is thought of as our most useful and loved tool by all top colorists. It just needs a person properly educated to use it. All you need to know is in our Blog, just put the words "blond, bleach, lightener" in the SEARCH Bar and you will learn everything you've always wanted to know!


Otherwise bleach is the single most useful and most handy product in a Colorists arsenal for changing hair color - PERIOD !

The lightest color one can achieve using hair color is with the type of color called HIGH LIFT BLONDING. Every line has their own version of HIGH LIFT blonde tones that ‘claim' to lift 4-5 Levels by using this tube of color plus a double dose of 40 Volume Developer.
Something I have found not to be true.....
 

...So there are 2 ways of going very blonde.....

#1) High lift Blonde's ( which you will NOT find in a HAIR COLOR KIT) these must be purchased as a tube of color and the developer SEPARATELY.

or

#2) Bleach or Lightener : In Powder, Creme, Liquid or Oil form.

As a seasoned colorist I have learned that very few of them actually do lift that much color, especially when you are dealing with the entire head or large sections of hair.. When doing something small like highlights most likely you can get the 4 -5 levels of lift (lightening) as you are using foils ( which add HEAT > Heat helps color work faster - and more intensely - altho it is tougher on the condition of the hair) …it all depends on the texture and porosity as well ...just like in all lightening procedures.

THE DECOLORIZING PROCESS, which in common terms is bleaching!

The hair goes through different stages of color as it lightens as you can see in FIGURE 16-19. The amount of change depends on :

· how much pigment the hair has ( how light or dark)
· the strength of the lightening product
· the length of time it was processed
- the texture of the hair
- the porosity of the hair.....etc....

During the process of decolorizing ( Bleaching), natural hair can go through as many as 10 stages FIGURE 16-20. The most common problem? would be when you see yellow hair..which would mean what? Check the stages....

As the hair is lightened....it works its way up the chart... if it stops at "gold"level 7 or even "yellow/gold"level 8...

it means whatever lightener has been used  has not been left on long enough....

Most people do not understand that....I think I have 20 questions alone just today (1/26/2016 )  about why their hair is yellow and what should they do about it.....

Be very careful . . I am not promoting everyone going out and leaving bleach on for hours and hours...or putting it on 2-3 times - like I do.

It takes constant monitoring...it needs to be washed off the minute it hits level 9 or 10 if you can.
If you have dark brown hair the color will go from brown to orange quickly.
BUT, then going from orange to Pale yellow will take multiple applications.....that is the only way to achieve properly lightened hair.

This chart show the levels

 But the answer to those with gold hair and why is it  yellow or gold? 
9 times out of 10, the hair stylist PANIC - stricken ....took the bleach off....then frantically tried to cover it up with a toner....so for a couple days you have"OK" hair color ( I use that term VERY VERY LOOSELY ! ! ! !)
Then you shampoo it a 3rd or 4th time and you think YOU did something wrong when all along it was a badly trained hair stylist. 

From my point of view 2 out of 10 Hair Stylists know how to color correctly. I worked in 2 very cool Salons in Malibu. In both of them they had over 20 hair stylists but in each there was me and 1 other person I would trust to color my hair and that is the average in LA. where we have the top school in the world. ! ! !

Not all hair will go through all 10 degrees of decolorization. Each natural hair color starts the decolorization process at a different stage. Remember, the goal is to create the correct degree of contributing pigment as the foundation for the final haircolor result.

The hair is never safely lifted past the ‘pale yellow stage’ to ‘white’ with lightener. Going that light with bleach even oil bleach causes excessive damage to the hair strands. One must be a seasoned hair colorist when going into the light blond range....we know how far we can go and be safe...and its nothing you can really 'teach'...... its simply experience!

10,000 HEADS of hair I had colored 1 year before I was diagnosed.
 Here is a chart I made so you can see what I am talking about......
It shows the color of hair and the arrows indicate each application of bleach to the hair!

I can tell by clearing the color off of a strand of hair EXACTLY what stage its at, so that prevents me from leaving the color on too long. 
Now the problem with most bleaching or lightenings you see on the street are done at home? 
The main problem all of you who have contacted me today is you need another application of OIL LIGHTENER>>>> which we sell kits AND i KEEP THE PRICE DOWN BECAUSE OF ALL THE PEOPLE i HEAR THAT NEED THEM......

WHEN YOU ONLY  bleach the hair once.....look at the chart above.... the color leaves the hair REALLY REALLY fast on the first APPLICATION as you can see it dips almost 3 full levels.....THEN, it gets stuck and that is where the majority of America gets stuck .... see where the arrow is after application #1 its on 5. ORANGE!!!.....some of you get lucky and it passes orange and lands on what we call BLORANGE... the chart calls it orange/Gold....I don't care what you call it.......
its hideous.
The only way to get out of this mess is to keep lightening the hair. 
I promise you.
What keeps people in these horrific golds & BRASS is FEAR from using  the lightener again. But when I lighten hair I can't wait to use the next application because the next application will get the hair color OUT of this crappie color.

Big shot Colorist's trick?

> use our OIL BLEACH Kit  !

> apply it twice . . . . sometimes 3 times - yep . . .in the same day -- the trick is...in knowing when to stop.

> OIL Bleach continues to work for 3 hours. Each hour the speed at which it works slows down. Therefore, the first hour the bleach is jamming & working quickly, then depending on costs - timing - etc...is how we determine if we are going to wash it out and reapply a new fresh batch or leave it in and let the speed diminish.

Sometimes that will be the best answer.

MY usual protocol : I apply our Oil bleach and 30 volume > 1 inch FROM ROOTS and thru ends.... (apply to roots as very last step).. for last 45-50 minutes.

RINSE

Reapply - new batch of oil bleach on ends and in the last 1/2 hour apply to roots.

Being very careful to use very small sections to apply the product.

Many many moons ago (16 years ago) when I did my very first RADical hair color ( I still have the photos).I took an ASIAN gal (PITCH BLACK hair) gave her a Halo around her face of 1 inch -- surrounding her hairline of WHITE hair.... my mentor wanted me to learn how to get to "white" on the most difficult of hair. Asian hair is the toughest to work on because of its 'texture' (its coarse) and its porosity ( it has none)...But, when you have completed either colour or a dynamic cut on it, it also looks better than any other hair.

So its worth the effort -- if you think that way!

It took from 7:00 AM in the morning to 7:00 at night. But it was a pure snow white HALO with JET black Base that I actually made a BLUE-BLACK so the most extreme contrast possible.

That was the day I knew I wanted to master the art of HAIR COLOUR.... and I never looked back.

It was a very sweet ride and I can honestly and proudly say. . . . I can do do ANYTHING in the art of hair color...anything and everything.

Even ended up making up some procedures like "tattooing" hair....

I would bleach white the hair and then paint a Tattoo on the back of the head at the base this was 15 years ago so very early on tin the world.

Back in the day I was not so into computers... so i didn't take photos of all my crazy work when i should have
 I thought I would be doing hair forever I never knew something like this woud take me down....I always thought I'll take photos the next time......I could always re-do it...never thinking this would happen...of course...

as a matter of fact computers are the opposite of hair color....so I understand why many of the TOP colorists are not ONLINE, I would have never done this . . .

had I not gotten sick.
Doing hair is working with people and talking to people so sitting working with and ON computers was the absolute very last thing I thought I would have to do in my life......

here is one guy I had some shots of

- lousy photos -

-but you get the idea . . . . He's hispanic so black hair again...

see what color a bleach should be?

WHITE!

He wanted flames to match the flames he had a car painter > paint on his jacket....

for PROM at MALIBU HIGH - -

- - of course!

It kicked ass


I hope you get the idea with what the problem is when you have brass gold or orange in your hair. Invest in our OIL bleach kit, you will be so glad you did, it doesn't damage the hair at all!

Remember once you have bleached white hair using BOOST & BURST can be one of life's better pleasures. 

Bleaching Hair At Home - Correctly : Becoming a Crib Colorist

Our most asked about issue regarding hair color is 'how to get the brass out of Blond'.... that... & how to get blond hair at home without damage or problems.

If you have not gotten a Color Wheel and are having problems with these issues ..... please get one - it will help - promise.  Studying the Color Wheel will help....as the goal of hair coloring is the opposite of what most of you think. . . it is eliminating the colors you don't want....AS OPPOSED TO : adding the color you think you should add. That is what I want you to think of FIRST. For example, with lightening hair very light............what "don't you want?"............Yellow or Brass.

This is when you grab your Color Wheel......and continually  look for the color Opposing the color you are trying to diminish.
If you don't want Brass. What color is opposite of it on the Wheel?..............Purple.
Therefore using a lightening product that is either blue or violet-based always helps. 
We have a WONDERFUL Violet Developer with the Oil Bleach Kits.

 Everything we can do to help get rid of yellow/gold/brass tendencies is included in that kit.

For 20 years I have been looking for a professional BLUE DEVELOPER and we finally have one in the store. What does BLUE counter on the counter wheel GOLD or ORANGE or what I refer to as BLORANGE ! So, we now have a blue developer option. ! I am so happy to offer this to many of you.

I'm always trying to figure out "how" to tell you the proper way to achieve your goals in hair coloring so, be sure to read all my posts on any 1 subject, especially this one...remember in each one I will try a different method of explaining the subject. I have found in Hair Coloring explanations.....just read the post over and over.....eventually it WILL sink in
!

For the purposes of this Post we will refer to Hair Bleach as Hair Lightener.....that is how I was taught and that is how I feel YOU should get used to.
Hair Lighteners are used to create a blonde shade that is not achievable with hair color.

What happens usually is: you will use a highlift blond (Level 12 blond) color, then there will come a day when  it no longer lightens your hair light enough (without yellow) - as you grow older your hair becomes darker and it needs the next step......which is Hair Lightener (bleach).
Studying the Color Wheel will drive it home faster for you . .
Just follow this post and use our professional lightening supplies for a Professional result.

Notice the 2 completely different shades (tones) of bleached blonde hair of these 2 men :
Brad Pitt & a model that looks like him. The model is white and Pitt is yellow. The difference is.....if you were to leave the lightener on longer it would kick the yellow out of the hair and you would NOT have to use a Toner. That is the DESIRED look when lightening hair this light, to have to use a TONER always would be costly and tiresome. Some of you have so much natural yellow DURP, that a toner is necessary, we have a page of Toners. 






YELLOW -YELLOW -YELLOW.....Mr. Pitt is just too Yellow

I have 2 Toners I love from LAKME, 
one fights brass................................................................10/22 + 13.Volume or 6V.
and one fight Blorange......................Blue /Ash Platinum 10/17 + 6.Volume or 13 V.

Probably seems strange how a colour wheel can relate to hair colour
most brilliant ideas go back to "the basics", there is nothing more basic than the Colour Wheel most of learn it in elementary school.

As you look at the Color Wheel you see Yellow.................what is directly across from it??????????
Purple.
Using a Toner with a Purple Base will eliminate Mr Pitt's problem. 

objectionable shades in hair colors

• in blondes: the yellow tone of a blond is very unappealing + as well as Gold / or Blorange
• redheads: ORANGE / GOLD will be the objectionable shades in a tinted redhead
• objectionable Brunettes would be "GREEN" brunette (ash)....but then there are others who won't want any red in their brown. To be honest it takes a balance of green & red to make a gorgeous brunette, isn't that funny who would ever guess there is all these colors in another color. 
  Remember we are talking about 'artificial hair

Yellow Bleached hair is probably one of the worst things on planet earth.
The method of fixing a too yellow blond is the best way to show you how the color wheel relates to hair colour.
In order to cancel the yellow tone in the blond one must head to the color wheel (until you memorize it)
The opposite of yellow?
Purple/Violet or even a Blue-Violet BASED toner ...is the answer.....which is why you would order BREAKING BAD BLUE BURST Conditioner if you would like to cancel those Gold-y - BLOrange Tones that are so irritating

PLATINUM   BEAUTY

This is what a cool clean platinum should look like and in acieving platinum almost every single person is capable of achieving this color. You do not need to be somebody special, you just need to use all the tools available to achieve it. That, and apply the bleach multiple times. Applying it once is for  Virgin Level 9.............Applying it Twice........is for Virgin Level 7 + 8............Applying it 3X is for Virgin Level 6.............Applying it 4 X is for virgin Level 4 & 5............and so on......Level

Lighteners

As soon as Lighteners are mixed with hydrogen peroxide...it begins to release Oxygen. This process is known as oxidation - - - occurs within the cortex of the hair!

Again . . . Lighteners are used to create a BLOND shade that is no longer achievable
Lighteners are chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment. EVERYONE has pigment in their hair except for ??? Who ???         Gray Haired people. Gray hair is hair with NO pigment in it.

Lighteners usually come in 1 of 2 forms : Powder..............or Cream.

Here at Killerstrands we have the old school method of an "Oil Bleach" : Which means a bleach one can mix up with Oil + Developer and apply directly to the scalp without any irritation to the Client at all. Its funny in all my years there is no way to tell who will be sensitive to Lightener or not....therefore I ALWAYS apply Oil Bleach to a client who desires a look such as Mr. Pitt's (and whiter of course!!).

Powder Lightener ( powder bleach)

 This lightener is the old standard. Most everyone uses it for just about any lightening they have. I'm hesitant to tell you all the ways people MIS-Use it. So, I won't.

Applying a blue-violet or purple based Toner to the yellow blonde will kill the yellow and make the blond a very pleasant Platinum ( think Marilyn Monroe white-blonde) or like the gentleman model on the right at top of the page.
SEE THE DIFFERENCE THE PROPER TONER MAKES?. PItt has no toner on his bleached mess, the bleached model has a violet based Platinum Toner from Wella which was left on the hair for 25 minutes after the bleaching process.
Mixing toners produce wonderful results - having multiple dozens of brands and tones, there is nothing more fun than playing with hair colour toners on blondes, silly, huh?
I love it!
The same process works for every hair colour, they have toners in all shades and tones. The too-green (ASH) Browns...using a red brown (AUBURN) toner will warm that brown right up...and so on.
A toner has three possible names

1. Toner


2. Semi-Permanent color


3. Demi-Permanent color

They are very low volume peroxide colours ...so there is no lift (cannot go lighter). The colours end up being very transparent / sheer cover over the hair...........they add shine and cancel unwanted tones.... They also do wash out easily, it is especially important to use a sulfate-free shampoo. 

Here at Killerstrands, we make sure to ONLY SELL SULFATE-FREE SHAMPOO!

Color Wheels for Reference

go across(opposite) for whatever colour you want to get rid of to neutralize

Bleach for the Stars (more about the best lightener there is)

I have spoken of the thrill I get when bleaching a head of hair the most magnificent of colors in the world. . . platinum . . . and then toned with a delicate pastel color, lately, there are so many to choose from. There is the thrill a hair color artist achieves when this has been done perfectly. Which is why I say don't count the world of "bleach" out until you learn and master it the proper way. There are a list of rules that you must follow to perform either the OIL BLEACH or the off-the-scalp bleach application properly - once complete you will be over-the-moon happy with yourself..The hair can look absolutely spectacular which doesn't take much studying at all. 


So many turn their backs to bleaching after one bad experience when it is, unfortunately, just the learning curve of a complex coloring product. Many try to perform miracles by lifting very dark (black) hair and using very high Volume developer and not taking the proper steps. Many will lighten the base first, when lightening the base should be LAST! Many try to lighten hair without using Oil bleach which is the wrong move, you MUST use an Oil Bleach Kit.

Bleach products are highly alkaline and therefore need to be neutralized with a shampoo or a product like INTENSIVE which has an acid pH value, before and after the toner is applied. By taking this extra step you will be able to achieve "EVEN" color and healthy hair. One more consideration that is overlooked is any styling products with a high "bad" alcohol content in the formula (which is 'denatured alcohol'). That alcohol can have a bad effect on the lasting properties of the Toner (which in pastels is so important).

Do not use any type of accelerators or heaters when using bleach, all containers should have the warning NO TO USE HEAT. If you expose hair with bleach on it to penetrating heat without any moisturizer on it, the hair may crack(break). Some Stylists use a dryer as a way to "by time" if they are running behind, or they are just so backed up they don't know what else to do. If you are a stylists and you are reading this in your learning stages.....just put the client in a chair hand them a magazine or I-PAD and apologize for running late, you are better off shampooing the bleach out of the hair and putting a deep conditioner or an oil treatment, than sticking them under the absolute worst thing you could possibly choose...........HEAT!  Heat & bleach are a big giant NO !

Bleach is the opposite of coloring where application is concerned. Bleach applications do not like air penetration and therefore the bleach should be applied thickly. The roots have to be well covered , and has the effect of retaining natural heat from the scalp, making quicker and smoother lifting action.

Never is there a need to apply higher than 20 Volume developer directly to the scalp, only in the rarest of occasions (Level 1 or 2 hair going blond ) and if it is then it absolutely MUST be mixed with Oil lightener. No exceptions. Be sure to bush hair lightly and be sure no metal of any type (glitter,etc.) is in the hair as that reacts horribly with bleach and we wouldn't want that to be the reason you had to stop the process. A close inspection of the hair & scalp is very important to reassure yourself that all is well before you proceed.

The Fault In Our Blonde Stars

The most asked question for regarding going Blonde, for I don't know how many years is..... how do I get 'Beige' Blonde.........as opposed to Brassy - Blorange or Orangey Blonde. I see it daily in the market, shopping - everywhere I go.....so many people whether they be home hair colorists, Stylists OR..........even..........highly trained colorists just don't get the concept.

I also realize I have spoken about this lately, but what YOU do not REALIZE is...........           I continue to receive questions indicating that I have done a poor job of explaining how to NOT have any of those annoying tones once reaching blonde. Therefore one more thing I hope I have gotten through to you is:

WHEN YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND SOME OF THESE VERY UNIQUE/UNUSUAL HAIR COLOR CONCEPTS ...... THAT IF YOU READ, RE-READ again + RE-READ ANOTHER DAY AND THEN CONTINUE TO RE-READ UNTIL IT BEGINS TO SINK IN, IS THE ONE AND ONLY WAY IT EVER WILL.

CELEBRITIES, are also at fault ! ! 

 See the Actor above has nailed Blorange Blonde hair!

I want to be dead honest....because most of the beige tint comes from whatever DURP you have and how good of a Photo-Shop magician you have working on your photo. But to get rid of it so very easily all you have to do is learn your hair and learn when to take the oil lightener OFF. Everyone's biggest problem is taking the lightener off TOO EARLY !

  Below is the graphic of how hair color LIFTS out of the hair strand. Most of you have brown hair of some Level.....so we will just show what color Levels the hair goes through as you lighten hair once you apply Oil Lightener or Bleach as so many of you have experienced.

See from the right ? say your hair is darkest Brown which means it starts way down there at Level 2 ........see it? 
Brown-Black?
as your hair lightens..........it goes through each and every single one of these colors in order to get to your goal of a Level 10 or PALE yellow .............or the color (I call ) FROZEN BUTTER !    That is where you stop.
There are stages the color lingers the longest are Level's 7 - 9, it sticks there 5 X longer than the other Levels. Which I hope explains to you why you end up with Blorange, orange, gold or brass hair in your attempt to get to a beautiful blonde! To you, it appears as though your hair has lightened very fast so you panic and rinse it off.....but what happens is from level 2 thru 7 it goes very quickly then it comes to an abrupt stop followed by a very slow lightening action to the lighter levels ( your GOAL ! )

So the problem (almost always) completely lies in the fact that everyone takes the lightener OFF the hair - too early. You all panic, almost always from previous horror stories with terribly qualified Stylists or terrible quality home bleaching kits - that will not happen with our oil bleach kits. But you HAVE to trust me on this and your best practice is to make up a tiny batch of it, test it/ time it - then you will know for yourself EXACTLY how long to leave it on , then just be sure that you set a timer and respond to it.

Lightener can be the most beautiful and transforming tool...............there is nothing like it, especially the Oil lightener.....along with the Violet developer which counters all the brass and orange just one more time. Included in the Kit is 20 Volume Violet Developer - no where in the world will you receive this. There are 2 complete applications, its a great price and I cannot wait to see how much you will love to achieve blond in this manner.

The Shine unbelievable !

The 7 stages of lightening are:

1. BLACK
2. BROWN
3. RED
4. BLORANGE
5. GOLD
6. YELLOW
7. PALE YELLOW

So....please try that method next - time. One of the most looked up terms on this Blog ( and there are a Zillion of them) is:  "high-lift blonde to platinum" Very Very rarely does that ever happen, plain and simple and I know hard-to-hear is: Highlift blonde is not strong enough, it works if you have VIRGIN Level 8 or Level 9, otherwise you will have to move to our very gentle and moisturizing oil lighteners. 
Wella's Illumina 10/36 & 10/0 are also excellent choices for super light blonde with a hair color. But get out of your own way and use the proper product for the proper result.          








KC

Platinum Power : Hair Color Your Salon Would be Furious You Knew About

                                                                                                                                         While many people will head to the Salon for Platinum Hair 
                                       - there is no application as safe

 
as an Oil Bleach Kit - and no where else to get one but here. Killerstrands is the one and only source for Oil Lightening (bleach) Kits as both Redken and Wella discontinued them in the same month about 2 years ago. I am positive neither company knew of the others move as they are fierce competitors, regardless, after months of work in my home lab I mastered an even more conditioning formula by using Cream Lightener as my base. There are numerous Posts regarding the application of the entire process so for those of you new to Killerstrands here is a link to them:
                   Road to Platinum Hair    

 Remember, the number one restriction to proceeding with this procedure? If your hair is damaged, please do not proceed. Purchase Gleam and Thriven....using the Secret Supplement & these 2 products will bring most peoples hair back in about 60-90 days. But, you must be vigilant.

 

 Many are choosing the Color-brick Road to Platinum Hair lately and to be honest I can hear the delight . . . in your words . . .as more questions come in. I know from performing this application hundreds of times on clients - - no hair color change - - is nearly as liberating. People float out of the Salon after becoming platinum for the first time in life. But, you may now acquire this look at home with our super conditioning Kit & after you read all the posts !

 

 I can see from a couple comments, I need to explain a couple facets of the process:
"How many Applications should be applied" 
"in what specific parts of the hair should you apply"
and the cutest question of all
" What is Oil Bleach?"

If you are beginning with Virgin haircolor, your rules are a lot easier than everyone else that walks the planet ... be sure to read those directions precisely.

What is ''Oil Bleach'' or as it should be referred to: "Oil-Lightener" ? 

Oil Bleach was developed back in the days of Marilyn Monroe. They had figured out how to Super Lighten hair, they were ecstatic with that. But before they had learned how to apply it properly they decided they need to add some sort of moisturizer to it. After a long series of tests / testing they chemists figured out if they added oil to the mixture of powder lightener and developer the condition of the hair was not so damaged. Hair is strong but if certain rules and guidelines are not followed then the damage can be breakage and no one wants that. Please do not proceed without reading every single Post I have written, a few times. When you do, you will have a handle on it and it will result in the most fun hair color you have ever sported.  What I have done with our Kits ( just to add one more precautionary step for all you beginners) is to add Cream Bleach instead of powder which I highly advise you never use anything 'but' ! 

 So to summarize: Oil Bleach is a Kit in which you mix specific Lightening Cream ( and ours even comes in Violet/blue tint to battle that brass)  with Oil and developer in order to achieve super blond hair - usually referred to as Platinum- ala Marilyn Monroe or Gwen Stefani.

If you are darker than a Level 7-8 you will need more than 1 application to achieve platinum hair. This has been misunderstood by a few of you. This is one of the reasons we put 2 applications in one of the Oil bleach Kits. If you are a Level 2-3-4 you most likely will need at least 4 separate applications. Remember if your hair has not reached the color of frozen butter, your platinum won't be platinum. I'm finding many of you apply only once or twice and can't figure out why the toner won't get rid of the brass. ....  You cannot Tone hair that is too dark. It simply will not work. You MUST get the hair light enough before the Toners will work. Think about coloring a brown marks a lot on a white piece of paper.....then what would happen if you were to color a violet maker on top of it ?? Nothing the base brown color is too dark.....same theory. As long as you do not begin this


Next: when applying the lightener the very first time to dark hair you should ALWAYS :
>apply to the lengths FIRST & ONLY. 
Now, as you begin in the back/quarter on the bottom : you should begin applying to 1"+ from the scalp  - down the lengths to about an inch from the ends.  This is very very important for the health of the hair. Why? Why do you not apply directly to the scalp at first? If you do, the heat from the head.... speeds the action of the bleach up, and makes the roots (or base) lighter than the rest of the hair. (some may refer to this as 'hot' roots - which can happen in this situation if you do not follow the proper method. Remember the goal at all times is to have the lightened hair <> all the same tone as you go down the lengths of the hair. If you don't, you will have 'bands' of various tones of blonds as you go down the hair. It is so easy to prevent by following the following -- further directions...

After you get the lengths of the hair 1 Level darker than your goal .......you apply the next and last application to the lengths, including the roots/lengths and ends. So, the very first application you make with the Oil bleach is what?Apply from 1inch off the scalp til 1 inch from the ends, I use to call it the hot-dog application when I would teach it to my assistants !

Even curly hair can be platinum when Oil bleach is used.