April 10, 2015

Bleaching Hair At Home - Correctly : Becoming a Crib Colorist

Our most asked about issue regarding hair color is 'how to get the brass out of Blond'.... that... & how to get blond hair at home without damage or problems.

If you have not gotten a Color Wheel and are having problems with these issues ..... please get one - it will help - promise.  Studying the Color Wheel will help....as the goal of hair coloring is the opposite of what most of you think. . . it is eliminating the colors you don't want....AS OPPOSED TO : adding the color you think you should add. That is what I want you to think of FIRST. For example, with lightening hair very light............what "don't you want?"............Yellow or Brass.

This is when you grab your Color Wheel......and continually  look for the color Opposing the color you are trying to diminish.
If you don't want Brass. What color is opposite of it on the Wheel?..............Purple.
Therefore using a lightening product that is either blue or violet-based always helps. 
We have a WONDERFUL Violet Developer with the Oil Bleach Kits.
 Everything we can do to help get rid of yellow/gold/brass tendencies is included in that kit.

For 20 years I have been looking for a professional BLUE DEVELOPER and we finally have one in the store. What does BLUE counter on the counter wheel GOLD or ORANGE or what I refer to as BLORANGE ! So, we now have a blue developer option. ! I am so happy to offer this to many of you.

I'm always trying to figure out "how" to tell you the proper way to achieve your goals in hair coloring so, be sure to read all my posts on any 1 subject, especially this one...remember in each one I will try a different method of explaining the subject. I have found in Hair Coloring explanations.....just read the post over and over.....eventually it WILL sink in

For the purposes of this Post we will refer to Hair Bleach as Hair Lightener.....that is how I was taught and that is how I feel YOU should get used to.
Hair Lighteners are used to create a blonde shade that is not achievable with hair color.

What happens usually is: you will use a highlift blond (Level 12 blond) color, then there will come a day when  it no longer lightens your hair light enough (without yellow) - as you grow older your hair becomes darker and it needs the next step......which is Hair Lightener (bleach).
Studying the Color Wheel will drive it home faster for you . .
Just follow this post and use our professional lightening supplies for a Professional result.

Notice the 2 completely different shades (tones) of bleached blonde hair of these 2 men :
Brad Pitt & a model that looks like him. The model is white and Pitt is yellow. The difference is.....if you were to leave the lightener on longer it would kick the yellow out of the hair and you would NOT have to use a Toner. That is the DESIRED look when lightening hair this light, to have to use a TONER always would be costly and tiresome. Some of you have so much natural yellow DURP, that a toner is necessary, we have a page of Toners. 

YELLOW -YELLOW -YELLOW.....Mr. Pitt is just too Yellow

I have 2 Toners I love from LAKME, 
one fights brass................................................................10/22 + 13.Volume or 6V.
and one fight Blorange......................Blue /Ash Platinum 10/17 + 6.Volume or 13 V.

Probably seems strange how a colour wheel can relate to hair colour
most brilliant ideas go back to "the basics", there is nothing more basic than the Colour Wheel most of learn it in elementary school.

As you look at the Color Wheel you see Yellow.................what is directly across from it??????????
Using a Toner with a Purple Base will eliminate Mr Pitt's problem. 

objectionable shades in hair colors
  • in blondes: the yellow tone of a blond is very unappealing + as well as Gold / or Blorange
  • redheads: ORANGE / GOLD will be the objectionable shades in a tinted redhead
  • objectionable Brunettes would be "GREEN" brunette (ash)....but then there are others who won't want any red in their brown. To be honest it takes a balance of green & red to make a gorgeous brunette, isn't that funny who would ever guess there is all these colors in another color. 
    Remember we are talking about 'artificial hair

Yellow Bleached hair is probably one of the worst things on planet earth.
The method of fixing a too yellow blond is the best way to show you how the color wheel relates to hair colour.
In order to cancel the yellow tone in the blond one must head to the color wheel (until you memorize it)
The opposite of yellow?
Purple/Violet or even a Blue-Violet BASED toner ...is the answer.....which is why you would order BREAKING BAD BLUE BURST Conditioner if you would like to cancel those Gold-y - BLOrange Tones that are so irritating

This is what a cool clean platinum should look like and in acieving platinum almost every single person is capable of achieving this color. You do not need to be somebody special, you just need to use all the tools available to achieve it. That, and apply the bleach multiple times. Applying it once is for  Virgin Level 9.............Applying it Twice........is for Virgin Level 7 + 8............Applying it 3X is for Virgin Level 6.............Applying it 4 X is for virgin Level 4 & 5............and so on......Level

As soon as Lighteners are mixed with hydrogen peroxide...it begins to release Oxygen. This process is known as oxidation - - - occurs within the cortex of the hair!
Again . . . Lighteners are used to create a BLOND shade that is no longer achievable
Lighteners are chemical compounds that lighten hair by dispersing, dissolving, and decolorizing the natural hair pigment. EVERYONE has pigment in their hair except for ??? Who ???         Gray Haired people. Gray hair is hair with NO pigment in it.
Lighteners usually come in 1 of 2 forms : Powder..............or Cream.
Here at Killerstrands we have the old school method of an "Oil Bleach" : Which means a bleach one can mix up with Oil + Developer and apply directly to the scalp without any irritation to the Client at all. Its funny in all my years there is no way to tell who will be sensitive to Lightener or not....therefore I ALWAYS apply Oil Bleach to a client who desires a look such as Mr. Pitt's (and whiter of course!!).

 This lightener is the old standard. Most everyone uses it for just about any lightening they have. I'm hesitant to tell you all the ways people MIS-Use it. So, I won't.

Applying a blue-violet or purple based Toner to the yellow blonde will kill the yellow and make the blond a very pleasant Platinum ( think Marilyn Monroe white-blonde) or like the gentleman model on the right at top of the page.
SEE THE DIFFERENCE THE PROPER TONER MAKES?. PItt has no toner on his bleached mess, the bleached model has a violet based Platinum Toner from Wella which was left on the hair for 25 minutes after the bleaching process.
Mixing toners produce wonderful results - having multiple dozens of brands and tones, there is nothing more fun than playing with hair colour toners on blondes, silly, huh?
I love it!
The same process works for every hair colour, they have toners in all shades and tones. The too-green (ASH) Browns...using a red brown (AUBURN) toner will warm that brown right up...and so on.
A toner has three possible names

They are very low volume peroxide colours ...so there is no lift (cannot go lighter). The colours end up being very transparent / sheer cover over the hair...........they add shine and cancel unwanted tones.... They also do wash out easily, it is especially important to use a sulfate-free shampoo. 

Here at Killerstrands, we make sure to ONLY SELL SULFATE-FREE SHAMPOO!

Color Wheels for Reference
go across(opposite) for whatever colour you want to get rid of to neutralize

17 comments on " Bleaching Hair At Home - Correctly : Becoming a Crib Colorist"
  1. Thank you so much. You have been very helpful to me. I recently colored my brown hair (at home) and the color is yellowish. I'll continue to read your articles but I just wanted to thank you and to let you know that I have found your blog very helpful.

  2. Thank you Mary-ava,
    that means a lot to me.......take your time and read the posts - slowly--- read them over and over again......if it doesn't stick, that is what I have found some do then they start to get it.... it took a long time to try to write them where people could understand that were not professionals > that is what the site is for...
    what did you use on your hair?
    I like the readers to ask me questions using the LEVEL System...it gets them used to the Universal system of hair color.....just like in cooking.
    Relate it to cooking...I find that eases peoples minds as well.
    There are a few solutions to your problem......I really like people to read the whole thing "then ask"......Its important to me that people try to LEARN, like they learn to cook...they can learn the basics of hair color as well - its truly not that hard just "different", so they can have professional {proper} hair color & do it themselves.....its something missing in the USA and I want to change that!
    Keep reading and learning and when you are ready I will help you fix your hair yourself !
    Its rewarding......promise!

  3. Hi Dakota,

    I finally had a chance to visit your blog again and plan to read more of your informative articles.

    I used Clairol's Born Blonde (nice'n easy) Maximum blonding for even the darkest hair. My hair is yellow-orange right now with medium brown roots.

    Thank you so much for offering to help me. I will continue to read/take some notes and I will let you know if I have any questions.

    Thanks again.

  4. NEVER EVER USE A COLOR KIT AGAIN...they are a HUGE HUGE mistake, I am not aginst them for any other reason than for the past 16 years I have heard stories thousands of stories like yours. I think it is an atrocity that they are allowed to advertise and sell hair color in the boxed kits. I would bet more than 70% end up wih their hair the wrong color and more than 80% end up with the hair damaged, and the only way out is the person just tints it back to the color IT WAS and then waits till it grows out.
    I believe the one company "CLAIROL" is finally figuring it out....they just came out with a line of Color and Developer SEPARATE, which is the solution to the problem...hair color formulation is tricky and there is just NO WAY POSSIBLE to put all those things in one box....because it matters what hair you start with....and they do NOT make it that clear....they insinuate everyone can get it. Like you buying that Born Blond. Anyone with hair color darker than a LEVEL 7 should not use that, their information on the box is 100% incorrect. THEN they make YOU feel like it is YOUR FAULT>
    and it is not.
    Please read and understand the "Universal Level System of Hair Color" and some basics about home hair coloring...I cannot spend that much time on everyone explaining things that are already on the blog.....OR for $10.00(PayPAL)I give custom advice and help you with your personal hair predicament.You can ask all you want.

    Learning what's on the blog will help you with your hair for LIFE...I highly advise it
    Killer Chemist
    AKA Dakota

  5. Hi Dakota,
    First off, I just wanted to tell you how much I enjoy your site. I have been doing my own hair for years (high-lighting), but just recently started tinting all over. I'm doing okay I think, with Tressa 12A (I am a natural 5 or 6), but sometimes I think I still have a little gold at the roots, I would rather it be a bit "cooler". Should I try a toner (just at the roots - oh, and would it damage my hair more to use the toner because of the added peroxide - [the toners I look at say 20 vol]? I use a 40 volume with the 12A). So many questions, sorry! Thanks for all your help.

  6. Thank you, thank you and THANK YOU for this blog. I can't tell you how helpful it has been to me - I have never really understood color before now. What a wonderful thing you are doing for so many!

  7. Jolly-curl,
    Welcome and Thank you for your comment....
    I cannot thank you enough for your compliment - plus am so happy to see you reading through all the posts, That is the key behind this site, and I have a tough time getting everyone to follow your lead.
    The entire blog must be read and I thank you for doing that - all on your own!

    I am here to help with anything else you need as well....
    Killer Chemist

  8. hi so i was wondering what toner do you have that can make hair white?like the pic3 under phenomenon also were can i get the purelights sulfate free brigtening shampool for blonds and the secret supplements? iv been looking on this web but haveing hard time finding not so good with computers sorry

  9. Rosalia,
    You may get all three by writing me and requesting an invoice be sent to you...
    it comes from PAY PAL > >>

    I will send you an invoice for the 1)THRIVEN + Secret supplement
    2)Color Touch by WELLA in 10/89
    3)PureLights bright shampoo

    why don't you join the group so you can look at our underground hair store it deals with color and hair health products


  10. I sent you a request for HHC, but no response and it's been at least a month ???

  11. Hello Dakota
    I have a few questions about something that I wanted to verify.
    I have read this color theory post and understand the basics of toning and using opposite tones to neutralize each other. I understand that to achieve a perfectly neutral shade of platinum blonde a violet toner must be used to cancel out the yellow left when hair is lightened to a pale yellow stage. To my understanding then would a blue based toner cancel the yellow and add another tone of coolness to the color? Is this how high lift "ash" blondes are created? I went platinum last year using clairol 323d extra light platinum toner, but I think my hair was not all the way to the pale yellow stage in all areas because some of my hair was not completely white. What toner would you recommend to achieve perfectly snow-white hair? Or is the pre-lightening more important than the brand or shade of toner you use?
    Thank you so much for your infinitely educational blog <3

  12. Who loves you! I love you! You my inspiration...

  13. I had the yellow orange problem after doing a total hair lightening. I'm naturally dark blonde at 33 years. I have hair that is fine but abundant. You saved my hair! I looked like the epitome of trailer trash Barbie, the toning techniques you provided gave me the the bomb-est platnium. Literally as soon as I did my hair, I went to the supermarket and some man SLAMMED on his brakes to stare at me walking into the store. I am loving this blog, you said it KC- the stylist just wants you in the chair then it's a crap shoot. I have to walk around and live with my wig tho- that's the difference. You are like the biggest PSA around. Make your accountant get you tax exempt status or something. You saved my hair and I will be forever grateful- always!

  14. Hello! I just got back from a salon and I look like a Canary, its awful. I was there from 12:15 until 8pm and all that time she damn girl that was supposed to just lift the left side of my hair (dark brown to match the right (already blonde) side ruined my hair. She tried to lift the hair, maybe didnt leave it on long enough and then used a toner. I was copper! Then she tried to tone that horrible color and it was dingy brown, ridiculous! Mind you my right side was a perfect ombre (dark brown to blonde) now after all that time it looks like a canary or butter. Hate it and attending a wedding in 2 days! Please help, is there any toner i can use to get the yellow, gold out? So miserable

  15. Everyone is missing the point about bleaching and lightening hair color. So I am going to explain it again for YOU and whole lot of others who are also getting it mixed up so please read the newest post on the blog from today - January 27, 2016.

  16. Hi, I'm a medium brunette who wants to go platinum blonde. I want to be very light, but with a hint of warmth (ie a light neutral platiunum blonde (ie not gold but also not too ashy/silvery). I know my hair has alot of warm tones, so I'm curious what shade of toner you would recommend to counter the yellow/gold after lightening my hair? Thank you so much for any feedback!

  17. Toners really fascinate the public.....we receive 10 times the questions about toners as we do regular hair Color, I cannot figure out why....Can someone help "ME" out with the answer to that?

    I DON'T MEAN TO BE RUDE BY ASKING THAT QUESTION, BUT ITS 100% TRUE, and I don't know anyone personally who can answer the question for me.

    as for your Toner question....Usually the toner is chosen once you complete your lightening...and what is optimum (to me) and my goal is always to lighten PAST the Gold / warm stage, so that you 'can' Tone if you want, 'OR' your fine with it just fresh from a shower with ZERO Toner. That is what a great Colorist strives for.
    But, if you are too afraid to make that your goal and want to have a toner on hand I would recommend EITHER............
    -- Matrix Color Sync in SPV & SPA..stand for
    SHEER PASTEL VIOLET & Sheer Pastel Ash...mix equal parts of each toner. Lets say you need a total of 2oz. Hair color then you would use 1/2 oz. of SPV and 1/2 oz. of SPA...mix well first then add 10 Volume Developer in the ratio 1:2. So if you have a total of 1 oz. Color - how much developer would you add?
    .... 2oz.! Mix well and apply according to my color application Post

    Wella Color Touch in:
    9/16 ......+ 13Volume Developer..........this is also 1:2

    Hope this helps



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