April 22, 2015

BLEACHING For The Stars : Complete Directions on Professional Hair Bleaching

Be Blonde Before Breakfast



Bleaching and Highlights !

Today and for the next 10-14 days we will talk about all things "BLONDE"..............so stay tuned for a cool course 


We will talk about my absolute favorite procedure on the planet -->

Why do you think this would be my favorite procedure? 

The change is so radical it is very rewarding to take brown hair. . . . white with ZERO brass and have it be healthy & shiny.

Two of the most important parts of this process
  1. the product you use

  2. following directions to the T
The reason for my success in hair had a lot to do with 'who' trained me, but also
....following directions to the T. and NOT cutting corners !

I don't skip over steps, 

  • I feel doing the steps perfectly and precisely is important, 
  • in chemistry it is important to apply every step and procedure. If any of you cook or bake...I'm sure you have noticed the difference if you measured your ingredients or if you just guessed when making a specific recipe.... 
  • Cooking & Hair Coloring are both chemistry 
  • measuring and following the steps are extremely important. 
  • I have already had some readers try to jump ahead and they have had disastrous results. 
Please, if you learn nothing else from me....learn that....to follow directions while learning or applying hair color.

Hair color Chemistry needs to be precise, thorough and meticulous,read and re-read until you get very familiar.
Do not cut corners

hair color chemistry does not work well that way
I even added steps to many of the procedures once I began studying Chemistry and had 6-7 years under my belt.......... finding ways to help the hair stay as healthy as possible. Dealing with Hollywood, I had many clients that wanted to color their hair frequently, so with that as the criteria...their hair needed to be in top condition as well as different colors all the time...so I had to master both.

I find a lot of hair stylists would rather work with "SPEED" being their goal, so they work in volume.
That is one way I suppose..but it does not work in my world. 

My biggest problem was time, you cannot be fast when you add steps to what already is a very time consuming process.PREPARATION
 For this process you will need OIL BLEACH.
Oil Bleach was a trick from a famous Vidal Sassoon Colourist from England, Annie Humphries…and after many years of doing hundreds of them myself I would never do it any other way. 
We have made a complete Oil Bleaching Kit with all of the proper ingredients, including Violet Developer, 2 Applications per Kit, gloves, directions, Oil, a unique Oil/Creme lightener base,etc.

Oil Bleach is used to not only lighten hair but also to protect the scalp from the harshness of bleach .

But the added PLUS from OIL BLEACH is what people do not know....

By adding the oil to the process??? What have I taught you to use on your hair as a deep conditioner? or a "PRE"- conditioner???

...what type matters only a little.....there are some oils that are better than others....but OIL is wonderful for the condition of hair - period.
So once the cuticle is opened, the bleach goes in the hair strand and lightens the pigment/melanin that is in there...with Oil in the mixture, the oil goes in the hair strand as well...which conditions and strengthens the hair while it is lightening --- at the same time. Its an added bonus of the oil bleach.....use it whenever you can.....I have used it on the damaged hair of clients that insist on highlights even though I have told them their hair is too damaged for highlights........if hair is damaged you will protect it by using OIL BLEACH.

It angers me that so many of the companies have tried to push "oil-free" everything on the public, OIL is the best thing on the planet for your hair and your skin. That subject is a very long and passionate post by yours truly, that I will skip for now.
Just trust me, Oils are Lipids...there is nothing better for your hair than lipids.


READ this for Preparation for Bleaching hair:

{ In preparation to color hair of any type….it is said and required for everyone to perform a “strand test” on all hair coloring products. I would be doing a lousy job if I did not mention this. This means you are to mix a tiny amount of the product and apply it to a few strands of hair and to your skin underneath a Band-Aid type application, to see if you have any sort of reaction to it. In over 10,000 HEADS of hair and 15 years, I had 4 people react badly to the hair products and it was to bleach. If you are an allergic type person I would definitely not skip this step. If you are a total virgin to hair color, never had any hair color on your hair or skin. . . . I would also do this step.} By Law, I am required to tell you this and I feel you need to be made aware of it.


  • Towels

  • Combs

  • Protective Gloves

  • Plastic clips

  • Cape (old Tshirt)

  • Plastic or Glass Bowl

  • Shampoo (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate-FREE)

  • Peroxide 20 & 40 Volume

  • After Treatment - pH Balancer 

  • 4 OZ. measurer beaker

  • Cotton Rope ( by the yard)

  • Tint Brush

  • Oil Bleach Lightener .......

  • Professional Powder Bleach ...if you plan on coloring hair regularly > buy yourself a tub - it will probably last you a year.
  • Contact me with your PayPal account Killerstrands@gmail.com
  • Timer

  • Protective Cream

Hair Terminology GLOSSARY #1

Color/Tint Remover > prepared commercial product designed to remove artificial pigment from hair (MOD-U-LAT now called Phantom Color Corrector)

Double Process > coloring technique requiring 2 separate procedures, in which the hair is prelightened with lightener, before the deposited color is applied (ex: bleach & tone)

Hair Lightening > chemical process involving the diffusion of natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair; often called bleaching or decolorizing

High Lift Blonde > single process color with a higher degree of lightening action & minimum amount of color deposit

Single Process Hair Color >Oxidative tint Solution that lifts or lightens while also depositing color in one application
Toner > a pastel opaque color used to give hair a desired hue after pre-lightening

Virgin application > Natural hair that has not undergone any chemical or physical or physical abuse

4 comments on "BLEACHING For The Stars : Complete Directions on Professional Hair Bleaching"
  1. Hi Dakota! I purchased the Redken levitation oil bleaching kits from you. I was just wondering what is the shell life for the Color Touch toners, Redken bleach, the blue oil, and the developers? I may enjoy my dark hair for a bit longer and wanted to know how long the kits and toners will be good for!

    Nicole Ledlow

  2. I meant to say "shelf" life not shell life lol.

  3. Hi KC! First of all, I just want to say that your blog, discussion group, and store all rock my world! I just placed my first order for thriven, redken icing, and performance plus.......but am DEVASTATED to see that Levitation has been discontinued!!!! After reading your websites, it's the only thing I want to put on my roots! I know i can add oil to regular bleach (I also ordered Redken Icing), but from everything I read I know it won't produce nearly as beautiful, minimally damaging results! Please, please, please tell me you're working on a replacement product or have a suggestion for a fledgling crib colorist/"blondorexic" like myself!

  4. Channy,
    Thank you sooo much for the compliments...I did nothing but write for the first year,its finally paying off.
    Yes, I will be going back to Wella's Oil-Bleach Kits, I used for a fe years they are sufficirt


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