April 26, 2015

Bleach for the Stars - Part 1 - Oil Bleach DEMO Application

The Quest For Platinum Continues....

Now you have everything you need and its time to begin. First you are going to want to read and re-read the directions to mixing the oil bleach...its super important to mix it correctly and the way the ingredients go together is different from anything you have mixed together in the hair color world. So again...READ & FOLLOW exactly.

**Add > Plastic Applicator Bottle > to your Equipment list

The consistency of Oil bleach is more liquid-y than any other, so its a little trickier to use and a lot messier ...BUT...just keep in your head "this will make my hair healthier - when it is all said and done".

TRY hard to find a friend or pal of some sort to help you apply this, the back is going to be tricky if you are doing it to yourself, it can be done with mirrors...but be sure to use them if your are doing it to yourself.

Here we go! Read through the entire directions first. then get prepared and if needed read through again.

  1. Divide DRY hair into four sections (see illustration 12-20)

  2. Prepare cotton strips, tear cotton rope into 7-8" strips (have about 40-50 ready) depends on thickness & length

  3. Apply protective cream around the hairline and over the ears.

  4. Put on protective gloves (  'small' Latex come with the Oil bleach kit - which makes it easy to apply - they are surgeon gloves which I like the best as you can feel the hair as you work)

  5. Prepare the Oil Bleach in bowl, almost always I will mix 2 batches of oil bleach, if you have hair any longer than chin level is a good measure, mix with tint brush and use immediately to prevent deterioration. One of the bigger secrets of bleach is that the majority of its "punch" or "power" takes place all in the first 55 minutes. It has about 20% of its power left after that, but that would mean leaving the bleach on for 2-3 hours to get what you need out of it. Therefore the trick is.... to complete this entire regimen, and if and when "2" APPLICATIONS of BLEACH are necessary( see #11), you take this application off and reapply a brand new one. After years of doing these, you cut time off the process by doing it this way. Promise!

  8. Begin in the Back on one side..................... Have comb, tint brush, cotton strips and lightener set-up....................... I have never done this procedure to myself, always to clients. I have always used a tint brush and bowl. But in reviewing how others accomplish this process, some put the mixture in an applicator plastic bottle. As a rule I do not recommend these bottles, BUT...if you are trying to do this to yourself ( a very brave endeavor I might add!) , I am thinking the applicator bottle might be easier especially for the back. Up to you...purchase the applicator bottle if you decide to... they have them at Sally's. Now be completely ready to go without having one thing interrupt you, this is a time consuming process and needs to be applied as FAST AS YOU POSSIBLY can there is absolutely NO room for breaks.

     ILLUSTRATION 12-20(above)
  1. Begin the application on the bottom of one side you are NOT putting it on the roots, you are applying from 1/2" off the scalp and extend the lightener up to, but not through the porous ends.Use 1/4" partings to apply the lightener, applying to the top and underside of the subsection in quick movements. Why? The heat from the head speeds up the processing on the first 1/2": therefore that is the last area you apply to. 

  4. Place strips of cotton at the scalp area along the parts to prevent the lightener from touching the base of the hair ( photo 16-51). So you will be 1st applying the bleach 1/2" off the scalp laying the cotton down on the roots to keep the bleach from running down on the roots....on both back sections and then the front sections, moving as quickly as possible. (FAST)

  5. Continue to apply lightener, double checking application adding more if necessary. Do NOT COMB THRU the hair. Make sure all hair is covered and moist, with oil bleach that is hardly a problem....
  7. Now if you have not done a strand test...so that you know how long it takes YOUR hair to get as light as you desire. You will have to keep checking it. To check lightening level use a damp towel and a water spray bottle to Blot do NOT rub -- the strand to look at the color. When its about 15 minutes from being ready...is what you are looking for. I am not sure how to teach you this trick....it comes from experience....and one way around experimenting on your own head if you are hesitant is to order a "Doll Head" they make them with real human hair that are made to color.

The cotton is used to keep the lightener OFF of the 1st inch of the hair, it is important to do that to prevent what they call "hot roots''. Which is where the roots end up lighter than the rest of the hair. 

The heat of the head warms the lightener which makes it lighten faster than the rest of the head ....therefore the lightener is kept OFF the scalp until the very last 30-35 minutes.

There is the first half of the procedure .....the second half comes tomorrow...........
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