April 1, 2015

Blee-atched Blonding Hair Coloring - Platinum Hair - DEMO DISCUSSION



Here is a review or our blee-ached blonde series
 make sure you have all the preliminary basics -




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8 Key Factors Affecting:
the Double Process: Bleach & Tone

#1) Scalp Health: use fingers and a good mirror to check over the entire scalp, there should be no scabs, wounds, zits or any type of open skin abrasions on the scalp. If there are when you apply that bleach, ( yes, even oil bleach) you will jump through the roof. Better to prevent that from happening – your skin will thank me.

#2) End result determined: first taking into account the “5 LEVELS OF LIFT/DEPOSIT RULE”. Best advice by millions of pro hair stylists is not to go beyond 5 levels of lift or deposit from your natural level. There is reason and experience behind this theory and I (most of the time) go along with it. A Level 1 or 2 who wants to be blond looks excellent with panels of Level 7-8-9 ASH blonds - but not so great with Level 10-11 Blond.…. { I recently did a girls hair like this > am mad at myself for not taking photos. One of the biggest mistakes of my career is not documenting enough of it, I have photos, but of some of the most spectacular, I don’t. I’ve always thought, “I’ll do this again” then never do because the style & trends change grrr!}
If you are going for a Medium blond rather than a light blond you would leave more underlying pigment, usually undertones of GOLD. Light blonds need an undertone of YELLOW and very light blonds need PALE YELLOW.
Be sure to determine what level of blond you want to become -- with this tutorial we are going the lightest-- Level 12 Gwen Stefani – Frozen Butter (palest yellow) is the name of the game.

# 3 Hair Health: hair needs to be in pretty good condition for this procedure to be taken on. If the hair is in bad condition prior to…it will be destroyed after- this is not the procedure for you. Please work on your hairs condition before taking this up. Go through the Deep Slumber Protocol, I’ve never found any deep conditioner better than my THRIVEN – you leave it in overnight 2 nights a week. (6OZ Jar: $40.00) Killerstrands@gmail.com Your hair will improve in 1 month.

#4 Natural Level: More heavily pigmented hair takes longer to lighten; I find almost all Levels of hair need to bleached twice except possibly Level 8 and up…all the other factors matter as well.

#5 Gray Hair: Surprising to many, gray hair lightens fairly easily…gray hair is hair with no pigment so lightening it to the blond level is easy.

#6 Texture: Coarse hair takes longer to lighten than fine hair, which also means that fine hair needs to be watched closely so as not to leave the product on for too long.

#7 Porosity: Very porous hair lightens more easily than non porous hair. Porosity = the ability of hair to absorb & retain moisture – determined by how compact together the cuticle layers are (condition) – described as resistant/normal or over porous.

#8 Artificial Pigment:
having old color or tint of any kind will alter the timing and application of any bleaching procedure. The area where the artificial pigment is will have to be reapplied many times. This is what can become tricky and one should proceed with caution. My only advice: every single head of hair is different, so every head of hair needs its own set of rules….keep your eye on the hair as the bleach is working…to make sure things are going OK. If Black pigment is in the hair, VANISH (color remover) needs to be used first.
There are no set rules for this instance except artificial pigment is harder to lift than natural
pigment.




 

Mixing “On-The-Scalp” Cream Oil Bleach

 Comment about Oil Bleach Kit.... April 2,2015......by Amanda ....Killerstrands Group




 Mixing the bleach to the proper consistency has a lot to do with how good your application will be and how efficient the lightening will be.
  • Measure all the ingredients carefully and read and re-read the instructions, most think it sounds backwards I’m told, and the way I have you mix it, is important.
  • A lot of things depend on how long the hair is, whether there is artificial pigment etc.but determine if you will be making one application or 2. If you are beginning to turn long hair platinum you will want to make 1 gigantic batch (using both applications) and apply that to the lengths of the hair all the way up to 1 inch from the scalp. Leave that 1 inch from the head without lightener until the very end. If you have Level's 2-4 virgin hair, you will want to apply lightener to the lengths 2 or 3 times without hitting the BASE. Then at the very end apply lightener to the base(roots)..........why?.......the heat from the head makes the lightener 1 inch from the head lighten 3 X times as fast as the lengths.....the goal is to have evenly lightened hair - if you remember that as the # 1 important goal. You will have happy - healthy shiny hair at all times !

    . Remember almost everyone will think they should use  higher than 20 Volume on the base (Scalp) – some scalps are so sensitive they need 10 Volume to protect them. There is absolutely NO reason your scalp or head should hurt in this process. Any Hair Stylist that has ever done that to you – needs to go back to school !

     If you do have Level 2-4 Virgin hair that you are beginning with please request at least 1 of the Kits you purchase for a swap out of the Violet Developer to 40 Volume. I believe its OK if your hair is that dark naturally to apply 40 Volume Violet developer using the cream oil lightener base and Gleam oil addition to the mixture..........never forget those items!




  • I suppose for many Readers you might like to use an applicator bottle,  I want to encourage you to please please practice with a Tint Brush and Tint Bowl there is a reason the pros use it...........why? The pressure from spreading the product on with a brush helps the color come out even....Remember we are trying to become Crib Colorists which means you are as good as a pro only you do it at home !




** After mixing bleach, be sure to have hair parted into 4 equal sections as in all hair color applications, as you see Molly's hair is here.


** Start application where hair is the darkest – almost always in the back.* Make 1/8 inch subsections, applying to the hair 1 inch away from the scalp and to the ends (depending on porosity of course). Applying to top and bottom combing through to be sure the bleach has saturated the section as evenly as possible – moving very quickly. Up one section…then up the next

Then just continuing to move down one section at a time applying the color & combing it thru.......... 

When someone apply's hair color TO your head you go from the bottom, to the top .........when you are applying it to yourself you will work in reverse with a wall mounted rear-view mirrors. 
We used to carry Jerdon's






7 comments:

  1. WOOOOW ! BEAUTIFUL POST !! LOOOVE IT ....


    Cant wait for the next per LOL


    Thanx Again,

    Jessica

    ReplyDelete
  2. I have a question Dakota...
    A background of what I am doing:
    I lift my hair(roots) to that frozen butter stage, then add wella ivory lady toner to my new growth(roots), then I apply 10NA by Wella color charms demi to my hair overall(history: my overall head has ivory lady toner already applied and then the 10NA when I first changed my hair color, so I use the ivory lady toner on the roots and the 10NA wella demi to keep it all looking the same).

    When I redid my roots(had to lighten twice to get to that frozen butte stage, I am a level 5 or so naturally), that area where the old growth(the blonde part that meets the root)gets hit a bit with the lightener(to avoid that line), during the process that old growth(previously lightened/toned) got a weird glowy yellow tinge do it(you know what I mean? Its like the demi was getting lifted off that hair? It looked very sunburst like, but wasn't a frozen butter like it was lifted to before - it looked more like margarine in the tub! A freaky darker yellow - that makes no sense since I lightened it to the frozen butter in the prior lightening process), it scared the heck outta me! I rinsed out my lightener/bleach, and then I did my toner(ivory lady by wella)on the roots and then the demi 10NA all over, it was all back to "normal" but could you explain that weird color? I didn't experience much of an overlap, but boy it freaked me out what was happening... I am assuming it was the toner/demi being lifted out of my hair.



    Also, if you want to change the overall tone of your blonde and you have used demis already(my hair seems to retain color extremely well) - how do you do that when I do my roots again? Do you have to do the shampoo train prior to the next time you color? For example, if I want to do a a different tone of level 10 blonde, i.e. go from ash to gold or peach toned blonde the next time I do my roots, and the ash is in the rest of my hair - how do I make it look all the same?(I am afraid the roots won't match the rest since the old growth has the ash in it if I just use the new toner all over after I lighten my roots next time)

    Any suggestions you have on that, that would be great.
    I am thinking of using a mix of the 10NA and the 10NG to give it some warmth - just don't want more ashy ends of my hair. And I don't want a drastic change, but I don't want it to be noticeable from my roots to ends, I wear my hair up all the time so it will be quite obvious if there is a difference in the new vs. old growth.

    Love this site soo much!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Jessica..........

    THANKS so much, I appreciate it.

    These take a very long time to knock out!
    killer Chemist

    ReplyDelete
  4. Martie.......

    whoa, that is quite a post.
    I understand the last half of the post but the first half has me reeling a bit.
    I will give it a try though, correct me if i get something wrong.

    #1: ARe you using bleach ( oil bleach) to lighten the roots? Or what?

    #2: There is no reason to use BOTH Wella' Ivory Lady Toner AND the 10NA Demi Color. You are using too many products on top of each other and they won't work correctly.

    You should be able to bleach the roots -- rinse. Apply Demi 10 NA AS THE TONER on the roots --> (for 15 minutes longer than the ends) then the ends -- you do not need both. You are making too much work for yourself and your hair doesn't need all of that. If for some reason the roots are not light enough - leave bleach on longer.

    #3: You are applying 2 toners; each with different volume peroxides, which doesn't work. It screws up how both work. Maybe it looks OK but I would NOT ADVISE it, PLEASE follow my directions and use just the DEMI 10 NA and lose the Ivory Lady, you don't need it. That is going to create lines of demarcation and not allow each of them to work correctly.

    #4: why do you use both Toners? Demi Permanent colors in the 8-9-10 Levels can act the same as Toners.

    #5 You need to read the post on SOAP CAPS...
    http://killerstrands.blogspot.com/2007/09/high-maintenance-hair-rules-bleach-soap.html
    ..this is a very handy technique for anyone with bleached hair. So read that one and the next days post as well then let me know what you think.

    #6: the soap cap is also how to get the toners and demi color out of your hair and change the "tone" of the hair.

    Have you read the whole blog? YOu need to if you haven't. Please be sure to.

    HTH
    Killer Chemist

    ReplyDelete
  5. How come I can't see the entire post? Everything seems to be missing past where you start applying the bleach.. just a few photos after that point.. is it just me?
    Quick question, what if you have short hair (like mine, it's no more than 2-3 inches in length, level 4, medium porosity))is it necessary to keep the bleach off the first cm from scalp until it's close to what I want? Or is it a good idea to use 20 vol on the first cm and 30/40 vol on the rest ?
    Thanks, your my inspiration :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Depends on the virgin Level and what all is on the hair to begin with , I never like to give directions - just to talk.....This entire Blog is trying to teach everyone that you must have all the facts FIRST, before flying into the world of hair coloring. Its not difficult and all of you can learn but by just saying ''can I apply this'' ???? without any knowledge of your virgin level....... your current level .........or your history you will walk into trouble again !

      Delete
  6. KC, your oil bleach and color touch demi are fantastic! I can't believe how great my hair felt after bleaching. And after I used the Thriven... Perfection. Thank you!

    ReplyDelete

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