March 31, 2015

Double Process Blonding and What it Is.

Double Process Blonding is a very popular topic in our Group lately, so I thought one more Post would be helpful to them in coming up with their game plan for their new formula.

Level 12 color or High-lift Blonde is made by every company and they are sold as colors that lift 5 levels....which is an outright and complete lie. I challenge all companies to tell me which line they feel does that and I would be happy to run a test and eat my words.....and take a photo of me eating my words !! ! ! "take-my-words" back ! It just isn't so, so what happens and many of you, in pickles is... these Stylists that are "guessing" how hair color works, listen to you being emphatic over the words , "please don't use Bleach". So they use the high-lift that claims it lifts 3-5 levels and you end up with BLORANGE roots and or hair.

Apparently that damn Sally's has come out with their own version of my Oil Bleach Kit, nice to see my preaching is reaching large corporations - Sally's is the largest beauty supply in the world and it single-handedly ruins more women's hair than any other company. L'Oreal runs a very close 2nd btw. The Kit has only been out a short time and I already have countless women asking me why their oil bleach didn't work.......AND THE REASON IS ...THEY USED SALLY'S - - NOT MINE. SALLY'S HAS POWDERED BLEACH IN AN ENVELOPE.  The whole kit is $5.00 - come on women you get what you pay for.......... How many times have I said this. NO-DAMN- SHORT CUTS.

My Kit has Creme Lightener with Gleam added in the container so more oil seeps in the creme lightener as it sits to be sold.....then you add even more oil (glammor) and we use a special Violet tinted Developer - the amount of lipids and oils in my Kit is simply OFF THE CHART !!!!!!!!!!!  Plus I have been using it for over 10 years with Amazing results.

 High-lifts on their very best day lift 3 levels "3"  and that is rare, therefore the question to you is one of REALITY.

So if you are anything darker than a VIRGIN Level 8-9....which is pretty much every single one of you, well you will end up with either brass, blorange or Gold hair at the end of a very expensive Coloring session. 

Now I am here to teach you how to avoid that. 
By listening to this Post and learning how things work and what you must do to have the beautiful blonde that is possible on every single one of you. You might not like the rules, but I promise you, but I didn't make them up.

Every color company states that high-lift lifts 4-5 Levels when they do not. 
Beyond that the next in a great Colorists' arsenal is what we refer to as  "Double-Process-Blonding" .  
That is how you obtain this hair color:

The one and only way to do this and end up with healthy shiny hair when you are finished is by purchasing our OIL BLEACH KIT, I do not mean to sound like a used car salesman, what I do get tired of hearing and doing is .....listening to so many sad stories of how you were led awry - its not your fault and I thought after I wrote this Blog and a few years went by that the problem would be solved. But to the contrary......... it seems to have grown for some reason. Maybe because having platinum hair has grown so much - especially this year........I have so very many email and consultation requests for platinum hair.

This is a double Step of a BLEACH and Tone........which is necessary..... when you do this for so many years on every color from Level 1 to Albino hair, you completely understand hair color ! 
This double process Step is called: Bleach & tone.
First you bleach and ONLY with our OIL Bleach our Oil Bleach Kit Unlike the crappy Sally's ones (Please I beg you to not use those or you will be knocking on my door tomorrow)
The mistakes I hear the public & Hair Stylists making all the time in trying to achieve platinum hair are the following :
  • They do not remove the "old" hair color first.....bleach is a lightening agent....NOT a color remover. - Remove old hair color with our VANISH KIT - first. 1 box is enough on most people unless you have Black hair color in that case you realize the change you are trying to make and they do not call platinum hair the epitome of the term "high maintenance" that is actually where the term was derived - back in the Marilyn Monroe days !
  • Do Not use powder lightener, that was designed only for small pieces of hair such as highlights ( I never use powder lightener - rarely do you need it with cream and oil lightener in existence).
  • the lightener  must be applied multiple times and it depends on the color Level you are beginning with as to how many applications of Oil bleach you will need. In the future you will only be using 1 application to re-touch your roots.
  •  All bleaches only process for 55-75 minutes - period, so at that time ity is time to remove it and apply another application.
  •  At that point you take the lightener OFF, rinse in luke cool water for 5 minutes
  • Apply INTENSIVE for minimum 30 min. rinse dry hair and Apply 1 more time. You don't stop when the hair is Gold or Blorange, that means you need another application to achieve the platinum hair. You do this until your hair reaches the color of frozen butter or the inside of banana.
  • Then when the lightness is achieved........ go through the process with the INTENSIVE and rinse, then apply THRIVEN OVERNIGHT.......that is a pure miracle worker I promise you. Tone the hair the next day. Its always best if you can wait 24 hours before that, if you can't then proceed that way.
  • Be sure you are using a Toner so that means a demi-permanent color line ONLY - and never more that a 13Volume developer for a toner on platinum hair I prefer 6 Volume Color Touch and 10/6.

4 comments on "Double Process Blonding and What it Is."
  1. what toner do you suggest for getting platinum/ white hair

    1. I've just done some brand new strand Tests on the newly formulated Schwarzkopf their BLONDME in ICE,,,,,,but my #1 Fav is ALWAYS Wella Color Touch in 10/6 with 6 or 13 Volume Developer

  2. KC,

    I've removed all of the old color from my hair using the shampoo train and Vanish using the 10vol to check to ensure all the old color is gone. Now I have coppery/orange hair. I want it to lift it up to an 8-9 and then color over it with an 8-1 from Igora. I've performed 2 test strips on the back of my head and both times the color goes right back to what it was. I can't wrap my head around what I'm doing wrong. Why is the hair going back to a level 6-7 and why isn't it neutralizing the golden color I've brought it up to?

    I feel like you have so many great posts about going platinum but I can't find any posts about going to a level 8 or 9 from level 6 or 7. In the end I'm trying to replicate the hair color in the link below but I can't even get the base right!

  3. Your results are a clear sign you did not go far enough with your color removing, you must keep doing applications until the color does not return with the test. This is not a guessing game, there are rules to get to certain places in hair color and if they are not followed then you don't get the proper results.
    You have to continue to use VANISH until you have gotten all of the old color molecules out or you will continue to have that problem. When you applied the 10 volume it showed you that not all the color was removed, therefore you have to just keep going and going till its all out.
    Some people have used up to 8-9 even 10 boxes, I know its a lot, but that is how you remove all old hair color very very rarely will it happen with even 2 boxes ( 4 applications). You must keep going if you want to accomplish this with hair color.
    Or once you remove the color again, you can use the bleach and tone method.
    There are 2 great posts about trying to hit the elusive Level 8 color.....on the blog all you have to do is put : ' LEVEL 8 ' in the Search bar

    You will notice that I tell you it is the single hardest color to nail, so you have that to contend with....which is a lot.

    You can't cut corners when trying to tackle a professional technique, if that is what one decides to MUST follow the steps and accomplish each one thoroughly. Half-assed is the difference between a shitty Colorist and a great one.




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