Blee-atched Blonding Hair Coloring - Platinum Hair - DEMO DISCUSSION

Here is a review or our blee-ached blonde series
 make sure you have all the preliminary basics -




.
8 Key Factors Affecting:
the Double Process: Bleach & Tone

#1) Scalp Health: use fingers and a good mirror to check over the entire scalp, there should be no scabs, wounds, zits or any type of open skin abrasions on the scalp. If there are when you apply that bleach, ( yes, even oil bleach) you will jump through the roof. Better to prevent that from happening – your skin will thank me.

#2) End result determined: first taking into account the “5 LEVELS OF LIFT/DEPOSIT RULE”. Best advice by millions of pro hair stylists is not to go beyond 5 levels of lift or deposit from your natural level. There is reason and experience behind this theory and I (most of the time) go along with it. A Level 1 or 2 who wants to be blond looks excellent with panels of Level 7-8-9 ASH blonds - but not so great with Level 10-11 Blond.…. { I recently did a girls hair like this > am mad at myself for not taking photos. One of the biggest mistakes of my career is not documenting enough of it, I have photos, but of some of the most spectacular, I don’t. I’ve always thought, “I’ll do this again” then never do because the style & trends change grrr!}
If you are going for a Medium blond rather than a light blond you would leave more underlying pigment, usually undertones of GOLD. Light blonds need an undertone of YELLOW and very light blonds need PALE YELLOW.
Be sure to determine what level of blond you want to become -- with this tutorial we are going the lightest-- Level 12 Gwen Stefani – Frozen Butter (palest yellow) is the name of the game.
# 3 Hair Health: hair needs to be in pretty good condition for this procedure to be taken on. If the hair is in bad condition prior to…it will be destroyed after- this is not the procedure for you. Please work on your hairs condition before taking this up. Go through the Deep Slumber Protocol, I’ve never found any deep conditioner better than my THRIVEN – you leave it in overnight 2 nights a week. (6OZ Jar: $40.00) Killerstrands@gmail.com Your hair will improve in 1 month.

#4 Natural Level: More heavily pigmented hair takes longer to lighten; I find almost all Levels of hair need to bleached twice except possibly Level 8 and up…all the other factors matter as well.

#5 Gray Hair: Surprising to many, gray hair lightens fairly easily…gray hair is hair with no pigment so lightening it to the blond level is easy.

#6 Texture: Coarse hair takes longer to lighten than fine hair, which also means that fine hair needs to be watched closely so as not to leave the product on for too long.

#7 Porosity: Very porous hair lightens more easily than non porous hair. Porosity = the ability of hair to absorb & retain moisture – determined by how compact together the cuticle layers are (condition) – described as resistant/normal or over porous.

#8 Artificial Pigment: having old color or tint of any kind will alter the timing and application of any bleaching procedure. The area where the artificial pigment is will have to be reapplied many times. This is what can become tricky and one should proceed with caution. My only advice: every single head of hair is different, so every head of hair needs its own set of rules….keep your eye on the hair as the bleach is working…to make sure things are going OK. If Black pigment is in the hair, VANISH (color remover) needs to be used first.
There are no set rules for this instance except artificial pigment is harder to lift than natural pigment.



 
Mixing “On-The-Scalp” Cream Oil Bleach

 Comment about Oil Bleach Kit.... April 2,2015......by Amanda ....Killerstrands Group

 Mixing the bleach to the proper consistency has a lot to do with how good your application will be and how efficient the lightening will be.

• Measure all the ingredients carefully and read and re-read the instructions, most think it sounds backwards I’m told, and the way I have you mix it, is important.
• A lot of things depend on how long the hair is, whether there is artificial pigment etc.but determine if you will be making one application or 2. If you are beginning to turn long hair platinum you will want to make 1 gigantic batch (using both applications) and apply that to the lengths of the hair all the way up to 1 inch from the scalp. Leave that 1 inch from the head without lightener until the very end. If you have Level's 2-4 virgin hair, you will want to apply lightener to the lengths 2 or 3 times without hitting the BASE. Then at the very end apply lightener to the base(roots)..........why?.......the heat from the head makes the lightener 1 inch from the head lighten 3 X times as fast as the lengths.....the goal is to have evenly lightened hair - if you remember that as the # 1 important goal. You will have happy - healthy shiny hair at all times !
  
  . Remember almost everyone will think they should use  higher than 20 Volume on the base (Scalp) – some scalps are so sensitive they need 10 Volume to protect them. There is absolutely NO reason your scalp or head should hurt in this process. Any Hair Stylist that has ever done that to you – needs to go back to school !
  
   If you do have Level 2-4 Virgin hair that you are beginning with please request at least 1 of the Kits you purchase for a swap out of the Violet Developer to 40 Volume. I believe its OK if your hair is that dark naturally to apply 40 Volume Violet developer using the cream oil lightener base and Gleam oil addition to the mixture..........never forget those items!

• I suppose for many Readers you might like to use an applicator bottle,  I want to encourage you to please please practice with a Tint Brush and Tint Bowl there is a reason the pros use it...........why? The pressure from spreading the product on with a brush helps the color come out even....Remember we are trying to become Crib Colorists which means you are as good as a pro only you do it at home !

** After mixing bleach, be sure to have hair parted into 4 equal sections as in all hair color applications, as you see Molly's hair is here.

** Start application where hair is the darkest – almost always in the back.* Make 1/8 inch subsections, applying to the hair 1 inch away from the scalp and to the ends (depending on porosity of course). Applying to top and bottom combing through to be sure the bleach has saturated the section as evenly as possible – moving very quickly. Up one section…then up the next

Then just continuing to move down one section at a time applying the color & combing it thru.......... 

When someone apply's hair color TO your head you go from the bottom, to the top .........when you are applying it to yourself you will work in reverse with a wall mounted rear-view mirrors. 
We used to carry Jerdon's

The Fault In Our Blonde Stars

The most asked question for regarding going Blonde, for I don't know how many years is..... how do I get 'Beige' Blonde.........as opposed to Brassy - Blorange or Orangey Blonde. I see it daily in the market, shopping - everywhere I go.....so many people whether they be home hair colorists, Stylists OR..........even..........highly trained colorists just don't get the concept.

I also realize I have spoken about this lately, but what YOU do not REALIZE is...........           I continue to receive questions indicating that I have done a poor job of explaining how to NOT have any of those annoying tones once reaching blonde. Therefore one more thing I hope I have gotten through to you is:

WHEN YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND SOME OF THESE VERY UNIQUE/UNUSUAL HAIR COLOR CONCEPTS ...... THAT IF YOU READ, RE-READ again + RE-READ ANOTHER DAY AND THEN CONTINUE TO RE-READ UNTIL IT BEGINS TO SINK IN, IS THE ONE AND ONLY WAY IT EVER WILL.

CELEBRITIES, are also at fault ! ! 

 See the Actor above has nailed Blorange Blonde hair!

I want to be dead honest....because most of the beige tint comes from whatever DURP you have and how good of a Photo-Shop magician you have working on your photo. But to get rid of it so very easily all you have to do is learn your hair and learn when to take the oil lightener OFF. Everyone's biggest problem is taking the lightener off TOO EARLY !

  Below is the graphic of how hair color LIFTS out of the hair strand. Most of you have brown hair of some Level.....so we will just show what color Levels the hair goes through as you lighten hair once you apply Oil Lightener or Bleach as so many of you have experienced.

See from the right ? say your hair is darkest Brown which means it starts way down there at Level 2 ........see it? 
Brown-Black?
as your hair lightens..........it goes through each and every single one of these colors in order to get to your goal of a Level 10 or PALE yellow .............or the color (I call ) FROZEN BUTTER !    That is where you stop.
There are stages the color lingers the longest are Level's 7 - 9, it sticks there 5 X longer than the other Levels. Which I hope explains to you why you end up with Blorange, orange, gold or brass hair in your attempt to get to a beautiful blonde! To you, it appears as though your hair has lightened very fast so you panic and rinse it off.....but what happens is from level 2 thru 7 it goes very quickly then it comes to an abrupt stop followed by a very slow lightening action to the lighter levels ( your GOAL ! )

So the problem (almost always) completely lies in the fact that everyone takes the lightener OFF the hair - too early. You all panic, almost always from previous horror stories with terribly qualified Stylists or terrible quality home bleaching kits - that will not happen with our oil bleach kits. But you HAVE to trust me on this and your best practice is to make up a tiny batch of it, test it/ time it - then you will know for yourself EXACTLY how long to leave it on , then just be sure that you set a timer and respond to it.

Lightener can be the most beautiful and transforming tool...............there is nothing like it, especially the Oil lightener.....along with the Violet developer which counters all the brass and orange just one more time. Included in the Kit is 20 Volume Violet Developer - no where in the world will you receive this. There are 2 complete applications, its a great price and I cannot wait to see how much you will love to achieve blond in this manner.

The Shine unbelievable !

The 7 stages of lightening are:

1. BLACK
2. BROWN
3. RED
4. BLORANGE
5. GOLD
6. YELLOW
7. PALE YELLOW

So....please try that method next - time. One of the most looked up terms on this Blog ( and there are a Zillion of them) is:  "high-lift blonde to platinum" Very Very rarely does that ever happen, plain and simple and I know hard-to-hear is: Highlift blonde is not strong enough, it works if you have VIRGIN Level 8 or Level 9, otherwise you will have to move to our very gentle and moisturizing oil lighteners. 
Wella's Illumina 10/36 & 10/0 are also excellent choices for super light blonde with a hair color. But get out of your own way and use the proper product for the proper result.          








KC

Re-touch - ReTouch Who Needs A Re-touch ? Part 1

 Lots Of Killerstranders do, I know that much !

Re-touch of a Bleach & Tone. From a prior Post that was kind of lost/hidden and not seen from October of 2008. Doesn't matter the information is superb. You see I don't realize what you all struggle with until you speak up. Even if I act surprised when you say it, pay no attention to that. I welcome your questions and comments.

  Been a while since I've tackled a DEMO, thought it was about time, again. Lately I've had a number of my trusty followers purchase the products and get ready for their very first at home re-touch, turning them into a CRIB COLORIST by my rules of engagement!  Congratulations I say to you all and my gift and vote of confidence is this DEMO shot and written mainly for you. 
Some of this is a repeat, but what I have decided this time is to break it down much more slowly, transparently and clearly. I know I have a tendency to skip over parts that I think everyone probably already knows - mistakenly . Which is stupid on my part, because why would "ANY" of this be something you already know - - many of you are coming off of years of going to a Hair Salon in which you sat back, grabbed a magazine and started up with the latest trials & tribulations of your life to your trusted Stylist. Its funny, that's one of the things I miss the most . . . I never got many of the stories I knew about my hundreds of clients finished or completed or at least headed in the right direction. I'm sure they are all just fine!
Today we have Trixie . . . how about this sweetheart, who knew they made mannequins WITH roots! I laughed my ass off when I saw her, yet she actually filled the need most perfectly.  I know of at least a dozen of you that will be tackling this exact project in the coming weeks so I hope this helps.
She has a lot longer root than I would have liked, doing roots this length are easy, as you have so much root to work with. The tricky part is when you have a measly 1/2" or 3/4", you need to be so careful of the overlapping part. (overlapping meaning overlapping the bleach/ blond tint onto the already blond part of the hair - which can cause breakage). Don't worry about this now, I will go into detail about all of these topics this time.
Here are 6 photos of Trixie from every angle, if you can believe I gave her a 4 minute haircut because I just could not stand the way she showed up at my door, that should get a laugh out of you. Once the color is complete, we will see what we can do with the hair cut for a permanent look, how about a POLL ? ? ? At the comments section below why don't we have a little vote for what hair cut you think she should have?

 

How about my make-up job? Swift huh? Like I said, you should have seen, "what showed up" !! Lots of color is better than Peter Pan and Twinkleberry puff colors, trust me!
Now that you have met and seen the project . . . what would be you very first step . . . all the time imagining this is your OWN hair and you are applying this technique to yourself, that's how these DEMO's work.
 
Sectioning, Parting and Preparation
Get the supplies out that you will need to do the SECTIONING and PARTING of your hair. What I really want to impress upon you is how important the sectioning and parting is. Maybe If I relay a story about how they crammed it into our heads at Vidal Sassoon Academy a way back when the teachers were grand, the art was still alive, and at unbelievable levels it will make you see more clearly what I mean.  Every week for the first 12 weeks of the Academy - - we had what was called "State Board Training" . . . we all hated it. It was a process of memorizing rules and regulations that we would NEVER put to use in our actual career and we all knew it, but you had to pass the test or the rest of what we learned would go right out the window. To keep us from going out of our minds . . they would break up the day with sectioning and parting - -  for 12 weeks mind you!  A couple hours of each day our break from reading boring - pointless - out-of-date Rules, was to grab our mannequin heads or work on each other and practice our parting and sectioning. Seems so silly to me now, although in trying to teach the process to you, I now see the importance of it all.
The complaint I get from many of you is the issue of keeping the hair straight and not getting it all mixed up within itself. Clips over tint brush thru combs on top of the bowl of color . . .well you get the picture.
The Answer . . .as it is to many questions of confusion  . . . is ORGANIZATION.  Plain and simple organization and steps. So for Step 1 to the madness called Hair color we shall call it section, parting and Preparation. Today we are getting prepared and Sectioning the Quads. and that's it! Slowly but surely we will get through this so that you will all have the Sassoon Mind set. Repetition is at the base of any great hair colorist - doing things over and over  will have you tuned into what to do automatically. It worked for me and if it works for the best and most famous school in The country, then it will work for you. DO NOT CUT CORNERS - if you do that, it will be your first downfall. 
This is what you need to get out to prepare to do the initial sectioning and parting and prep. Clips - invest in strong ones, they last 2 years and are worth it, they MUST be plastic -metal reacts with bleach in a bad way. Couple cutting combs, couple tail combs and GLEAM. Never color hair with out GLEAM, Argan Oil is even better, but I won't even use it until the price comes down a bit. I found the GLEAM works almost exactly the same.

I always need 8 clips and 4 combs, its just the standard prep tools I grab for - no matter what. As you can hopefully see the combs have different widths and teeth to help with the density of the hair.. if you have super coarse hair you may need the larger combs. I'm battling with some pretty freaky hair hair so this won't be an easy job for me, all the much better to show you the process with. Mannequins hair does not lay down flat like a real persons, among many other challenges, one would never think of!  The more organized you are at the beginning the easier the entire process will go for you. I want you to enjoy coloring your hair, so you look forward to doing it next time, not the other way around.
 
So the sectioning begins with getting your head into QUADRANTS. See the straight part from nose to nape. Then the straight part from ear to ear. Practice this parting not once or twice . . . practice getting it exactly EVEN 15 times! Yep its that important!
The head needs to be divided into 4 EQUAL SQUARES. If you do this and treat each as its own individual section, it will make your life easier AND ( the key to this is ) > it will make you faster in applying the color - the goal for most of you.

 Just different views of the whole "quadrant" idea I'd like to plaster into your brain. See how the whole head is divided into 1/4'ths. The reason for this ? ? ?  So you treat every quadrant as its own individual section, that you will be 'starting' and 'finishing' before going onto the next section.   You are to focus on that 1 section only. Nothing else.  It gives you a beginning -- middle -- and end to your project . .  something nice, when you feel like you don't know what you are doing. Right? Always starting at the bottom of each section FIRST - - working upward going to the top of that section and then completing it. 
Again notice the quadrants pointed out with the TAIL COMBS. Keep your hair in these quadrants at all times during the coloring process.
IT  WILL  MAKE  YOUR  LIFE SO  MUCH  EASIER ............. I  PROMISE

Next is the GLEAM, wonderful - glorious - GLEAM. What a Godsend this has been for me and my clients. . . as it will also be for you.
It depends on the amount of hair you have, but not a whole lot is needed


Just a few squirts if you got the smaller bottle and 2 eyedropper fulls if you got the larger bottle is plenty. The idea is to get the oil everywhere that you plan on applying any color/bleach/lightener at all. Do not worry about putting it everywhere ( if you feel like it) I was just trying to save you a bit of money, I actually put it on the entire head of hair. Its done some wonderful repairing for dry and damaged hair clients of mine. You will see.

  So there you have it, the entire head is gleamed up and read to have color applied. This one back section is all GLEAMED up and ready to go. You will want to begin applying the color  in the back 2 sections as they are the more resistant sections of the hair and are the most stubborn so we want the color on them the longest. Its like God planned it that way, so he gives us the time to get the color on the front sections without destroying the back sections. .

 .  Truly it does work that way! Its more than OK for the color to be on the back 2 sections for 20 minutes longer ( although we don't really 'think' like it, that way) - because of its resistance . . . until we can get to the front two sections and apply that color as fast as possible to those sections. So it all comes out "cooked" properly and done at the same time. 
Just like a great Thanksgiving dinner.
The next POST will be mixing the bleach and applying one section ONLY -- very slowly and just like this post so hopefully you will see in detail the proper manner in which to successfully color your hair. This may also be applied to the exact same process if you are tinting your hair brown or red or whatever color. This is a color RE-Touch and works for ALL COLORS!






 Killer Chemist

 HAPPY NEW YEAR

Blonde is The Absence of Color in Hair, NOT a Color Itself

Blond, James Blond - The First Post of a 10-Part Series on everything I can come up w/ on Blonding

Within the walls of Killerstrands we have a way of displaying to everyone what our hair color looks like now, what we were born with and where we want to go with it. We call the 10 Questions the KILLER 10, we call them that because these 10 questions are absolutely necessary in order to have a successful result when coloring your hair. {oh and btw : these questions better be considered by your Stylist in a Salon situation as well}.  What we have below is both the display of that and the beginning of a Series I am going to write called:  Blond, James.....Blond - The Crib Colorists Side of the Complexities of Having and Keeping Your Hair Blond. issues at hair salons across the United States and now that many have Killerstrands to use...... a lot of it is going on at home as well.

I was just writing the first of a 10-part series on Blonding, when I received this question, that shook up my whole idea of what I should talk about and I'M THRILLED ! I love to have a clear focus of the angle of Blonding (or whichever subject I'm writing about) that many of you don't quite understand. Now, I can clearly see where I should concentrate the next 9 Posts about. The concept of how we arrive at blonde hair. It is a weird one. People think that Blond is a color, well.....technically it is not. Blond is the absence of brown, well - wait.....let me start at the beginning .... here is the Question that was Posted in our Group - that made me re-think the whole series. . .

 My Hair Is A Disaster I need Your Help ? ?

Here's my Killer 10.

1. Do you have previous haircolor on your hair? Yes, I have 90% of
Highlights

2. What is your VIRGIN (God-given) hair color level & tone ?  7N

3. What IS your present Hair Color level & Tone ? Terrible 8.34, 9.3
and a very few 10.01

4. What is your DESIRED hair color Level & Tone ? 8.12(I think .12 is
ash/violet, right?) or 9.12

5. What is your percentage of Gray? Is it Resistant? very few, it just
started showing up

6. What is your DURP?  When I do highlights my hair turns yellow/
orange. When i color my hair turns orange/red

7. What is your texture? Dry  (but was not like that before a year
ago)

8. What is the Porosity? Low porosity

9. Along w

10. What is your length and thickness? A little bit underneath the
shoulder. Fine-course (but it was thick before)

What is the Condition ? damage, brassy and frizz

I'm 40 years old from Brazil  and I started highlighting my hair when I
was in my 20's. My hair used to look like Alessandra Ambrosio's hair
with that color and those highlights. That's the way I like my hair
(with a little bit more highlights than her). It was like that until 1
year ago when I changed my colorist because she moved. After that,
every colorist i went to, messed up my hair and now I have highlights
over highlights over highlights all over my hair... Every thing they
put in my hair turns brassy, yellow, orange, and sometimes redish-
orangish. Now I have all these horrible colors in my hair with 2
inches of my roots showing and I really don't want to try another
salon.

What I want you to help me with is decide what to put in my hair
because I am really lost since it is going to be the first time I
color my own hair. I am thinking about using 9.02 + 8.10 and I'm going
to be crazy and try the star shape technique (because i think this is
the easiest one, and i really dont like my hair in just one color)
with 10.10, with 9.22 toner all over my head. What do you think, Is
this a good combination? Should I use 30v or 40v on my base? Should I
use 40v on my star shape and 10v on the toner? What about the times
for the star shape and the base? I put the toner on wet hair?

I really hate orange, yellow, and red and unfortunately my hair has
all those colors. Do I need to use a blue and violet shot to mix in my
formula? If you think neither of these options work on my hair, then I
am willing to go back to my natural color.

Thank you for helping me, I really appreciate it, 

 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 

Wow............

 This one Question jogged my brain and reminded me that I myself had a difficult time with these concepts when I first began, which is great news for all Killerstrands readers ! Here I was about to embark on the James Blond Series - Well, what a way to start it, with a real Comment from the Killerstrands Group.

Let me start out by saying that at about the age of 30 and then again at about age 40, 50 and in my 100% honest opinion on the DECADE of every age from then on.... EVERYONE's hair begins to change. . .and as much as I am one of those people who feels we get better with age, unfortunately I do not feel our hair is on board with that theory. it has a mind of its own. So first off, please get ready for your hair to change, its just part of life. We all must make adjustments accordingly to how your hair has altered for the worse.

At Killerstrands we do not encourage experimenting on the entire head of hair, we stress STRAND TESTS, on new formula's. That way the mistake or success is only on a small piece of hair. So please read a post or 2 on that subject before trying any color at all (yes that includes the Toner idea !). Take the time. Do not put it off and think its not worth it. Once you get the color down, then you may fly through the application. But I will tell you that most of the mistakes that are made are made because you are in a hurry. Forget the mental attitude that comes with doing "Boxed" Hair Color. Hair color that is gorgeous is NOT FAST. Remember the last time you had 'rockin' color by a great Colorist....I bet it wasn't fast ! Anything that is done well, is not done in a hurry.

Now. The problem with your hair and hair color in general. Its difficult to know why a new hairdresser screwed up in the manner in which you describe. This concept stumps a lot of people but I am going to try one more additional way in which to explain it......

> Blonde is not a color you "add': to the hair. The strands of hair have natural pigment in them from birth. That pigment 9 times out of 10 is darker....say a Level 7,6,5 and on and on. The way you reach blonde is by removing layers of natural pigment. So you ( for lack of a better word) SUCK-OUT the pigment in the hair in order to reach blond. Lets say someone has Level 7 color and the goal is a Level 9 . We do NOT ADD color to go from a Level 7 to a Level 9. What we do is "lift" the color out of the strands in order for it to become lighter (and blonder) . Therefore if the color is Lifted out of the strands - - rather than: removing existing color.... as many of you think, it would not work. But, I am very glad this scenario was brought to my attention....so now I see clearly what issues are not understood.

So, I need to work on this area so that everyone understands this concept better! Thanks for this, both of you ! !                        

Blond is not a color that is added to your hair.

Although, Brunette is .

Why isn't blond?

Blond is the hair color that is the result of "lifting"out your natural color . When either "lightener" or High Lift Blonde's are used, there are 2 main goals of the high lift blond colors.......1st they LIFT THE NATURAL COLOR OUT of the strands....then, they DEPOSIT the "tone" of Blond you have chosen.

I'm trying to remember how exactly this was explained to me years ago as this was a concept I just had the hardest time comprehending at the beginning. Remember my trick, read concepts you do not understand -- OVER and OVER again. Eventually it WILL sink in. (That was how I went to the hardest hair school in the USA with a bunch of 19 year olds and made it through the other side!)

'Lifting' basically means 'lightening'

Remember how (only) permanent colors can "lift", which is why as a Colorist we adore permanent colors compared to Demi-Permanent hair color. With the Demi-Permanent colors the only process they can do is to deposit hair color.

The most miraculous part of hair coloring is the fact that Permanent color CAN do 2 polar opposite techniques on ones hair  (lifting & depositing)  AT THE EXACT SAME TIME. Therefore when you apply level 9 - 10 - 12 to your hair with 30 or 40 Volume that color you applied will FIRST lift all your natural color out of the hair strands you have applied it to, then it will deposit the tonal quality you have chosen.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Now My Dear, I cannot tell you why your hair color is all these bizarre colors for sure....but if you have had it beautiful at some point then I am guessing it is very possible. I would start by following Betty and try 9.22 + 10 Volume - that is a toner with strong Violet undertones. Violet rids us of Brass. How you use the color wheel on this subject is.....if you have brass that you cannot stand....go to your color wheel.....go to the color directly ACROSS on the Color Wheel. Across from Yellow is Violet. The Color directly across WILL CANCEL THE COLOR you dislike. You don't need us if you understand that one little rule. Don't like Orange? Use a color that has a BLUE base.

 If you had a stylist doing your hair that you loved I am willing to bet a lot of money that she used the old "standard" used by every Hairstylist known to man......and that is powder lightener and 10 Volume with the 1st bowl  and once you are half way thru the hair you use powder lightener and 20 Volume. THAT is how you avoid all those crazy colors you quoted and that is what is used on all those South American models, I've worked on their hair before. Most of them have at least a Level 6 hair. Most Hair Stylists don't go to all the trouble I do using 2-3-4 colors......so I need to remember that for all of you to not have to live up to the way in which I worked. I know that over 1/2  It was harder, and there are short-cuts, I just need to be aware that I should point them out for all of you to choose your method of coloring from. Since I have turned into over to a home hair colorist myself, I have even stopped putting blond pin-size ribbons in the top of my hair, its too hard - so now I get it. 100% !

In the hair business the #1 manner in which Stylists put "highlights in the hair, is by using "powder lightener"( bleach) and 10 or 20Volume. The issue with that is, you want to be fast enough so that you get all the foils in within a very close margin from each other..... The biggest no-no with using powder lightener is not leaving it on too long. Then you get into the field of creating Damage. So THAT is the theory behind running Strand Tests. If you do not leave the lightener and 10V "ON" long enough ...then if you look at the 10 degree's of De-Colorization Chart, what would you end up with?.........................Guess ?    ?  You could end up with orange-Gold or the hard-to-avoid "BRASS" ! Remember how it works. . . The hair begins brown.....yes if it is black it is even 1 step darker than on this chart.  As time ticks away in the "processing time" everyone's hair begins to go up the chart up above. And as you can see if the time has not been long enough it will stop at RED ......if not long enough STILL.....It will be Gold ......the goal should be the top 2 shades....yellow (which is a nice Golden Blond) and Pale Yellow (which is most likely the color most strive for). 

The issue that effects this most is................your God-Given DURP. Your Dominant-Underlying-Remaining-Pigment that is basically hidden from most.  Some people (think Jennifer Anniston) have the most amazing DURP on Planet Earth.....which means as your hair goes UP the Ladder, in all the different Levels it passes through  - -  it is STILL or gorgeous color.  But that is not the "norm" and THAT is why EVERY single one of you should run a Strand Test or 2 !

 Also, when the powder lightener is used correctly you will eliminate all those crazy colors you spoke about.... The reason those crazy colors are there? Is because your color was not LIFTED - "PAST" the orange stage......not LIFTED "PAST" the Brass stage....and so on.....

I think you should purchase 1 or 2........ of X-Factor's 9.22, a small tub of Framesi's powder lightener ( 3 oz.)  and an X.Factor 12.20 Highlift +40V.....run strand tests with all 3 products and then you will know for yourself where your hair stands and which colors work for you.

What I want to be sure about is that NO ONE  use Vanish on Blonde, That is the one place you are not supposed to used it....as it would not work. I have seen a few people refer to possibly doing that, and I am glad I have finally had a chance to address this subject. So every woman with Blonde hair presently must NEVER use VANISH. Once you fully understand the Theory....it will make ZERO sense.

But I will continue on with this theory and this intensity in teaching everyone the ins & outs of the Blonding world.

thanks everyone,

Killer Chemist