Showing posts with label Demo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Demo. Show all posts
April 29, 2015

Rose-Gold Blond Formula's + Tricks + Upkeep

I have had a number of requests for formula's and tricks to achieving the Rose-gold Blond look


 Normally I would tell you to go to a qualified Colorist but this isn't really that tough. If the
 Killerstrands Angel-Rose-Angel BURST Conditioner
directions confuse you - head for the Colorist...but I think if read and re-read my instructions you will find it truly is pretty simple. Before I write on a topic... I will ask my staff if they understand the Post, before I teach it to you...to see how they take it. Its funny but all of them aren't into doing their hair AT ALL! But, they understood this so I am going to give you the education. I know lots of you who would probably love to work here.


Remember I learned hair color when I was old, my first career was as a Stunt.woman in Hollywood..........don't ask me why I made the transition......it was not my choice - believe me. Lets just say I had one angry ex-husband who was a big-shot movie director and he was not happy when I informed him I no longer wanted to be married to a person who chose his his drug/alcohol use above his family . That didn't hit his male ego button very well so he turned on me....... blackballed me in the industry......he told everyone that if they hired me, they would never work for him again. He controlled a lot in that world. But anyway that's enough about that...

What I want you to learn is that if I can learn all of this at an older age... every single one of you can. I am trying to empower everyone of you with the knowledge and instructions on either coloring your hair yourself.............or doing touch-ups for when you can't get in to see your Colorist. There are many of you who live in remote areas and have ZERO access to a decent colorist and are forced to learn to do your own hair. There are many that just can...not or don't want to pay hundreds of dollars every month to do hair you can now learn to do on the Internet.
So when I say read and re-read............the instructions I give, if you don't understand it the first time I say it - then re-read it and then re-read it the next day.......... I say that because that is how I learned. This all was so foreign to me, but just doing some extra reading truly helped me learn a lot of concepts that were completely foreign to anything I had ever done in my life!

So, the trick to becoming rose-blond, is really much easier than one would think. That is because what you do is begin with blonde hair and then put a rose-blond toner over the hair. You can also put some darker rose-gold pieces in the hair, but for the sake of this post lets just go with 2 formula's for achieving rose gold hair and the use of BOOST & BURST for both upkeep and creating the look. You can create Katy Perry's look at home by starting with blond hair and we have been going over the many zillions of ways there are to achieve blonde hair in the posts over the last couple of weeks.  Then applying BURST in Angel-Rose-Angel on just the first 3 inches of the hair in kind of an up & down method... So that is easy and should be solved.

Then you can begin with Blond hair and it can be a Level 8 like Sienna is here


The following look can be achieved by 2 methods of products we carry
You can apply Schwarzkopf in the Candy Pink Pastel 9.5-89 






Plus 6, 10 or 13Volume 
I would suggest using 6Volume the first time.
Just divide hair in Quarters, apply in tiny sections of the hair
it should like this..... 



Now is you were to want a look like this, you would just foil some pieces or ribbons around previously lightened hair :



http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/collections/professional-hair-color/products/wella-color-touch-demi-permanent-color
PHOTO - 4A  -  ROSE  HIGHLIGHTS

This would be more difficult, for 1.) you need to begin with Level 11 or 12 hair....Level 12 is what she has. Then this is more "ROSE".............than Pink so you would need to create my secret formula.

Made from Color Touch  - - KC's Dark ROSE Formula
Purchase
9/16 

6/45 
+   
4-8 ounces of 13Volume Developer

Now the trick to mixing this is this.............YOU CANNOT JUST MIX THE 2 COLORS ! !  
 One must  only use the following formula using the above colors. If you don't do it like this you end up with a mess, but it is NOT THAT HARD!
#1.) Squeeze 1 ounce of 9/16 into bowl.........
#2.) Squeeze 2 grams of the 6/45 color coming out the tube into the bowl. Mix those 2 items together first with a knife. 
#3.) Pour 2 ounces of 13Volume Developer into the bowl and MIX WELL. 
#4.) Now just apply all over evenly and quickly 




















  • outline the section first, that you begin with, with the hair color you are using
  • the section you start with should be the section in the back or where you want the color to be the darkest.
  • now just section and part your way up the hair applying the color this formula will look EXACTLY like the ends in Kate Hudson's hair below..... OR put the darker highlights like in the photo 4-A , above...

 


http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/collections/professional-hair-color/products/wella-color-touch-demi-permanent-color
DARKER  ROSE  ENDS



Remember BOOST & BURST will keep your ROSE-BLOND Hair all Rosy & Easy. Shampoo leave that in a couple minutes then decide how much color you want from BURST they both have loads of pigment in them.............. so knock yourself out.

Any Questions?


April 1, 2015

Blee-atched Blonding Hair Coloring - Platinum Hair - DEMO DISCUSSION



Here is a review or our blee-ached blonde series
 make sure you have all the preliminary basics -




.
8 Key Factors Affecting:
the Double Process: Bleach & Tone

#1) Scalp Health: use fingers and a good mirror to check over the entire scalp, there should be no scabs, wounds, zits or any type of open skin abrasions on the scalp. If there are when you apply that bleach, ( yes, even oil bleach) you will jump through the roof. Better to prevent that from happening – your skin will thank me.

#2) End result determined: first taking into account the “5 LEVELS OF LIFT/DEPOSIT RULE”. Best advice by millions of pro hair stylists is not to go beyond 5 levels of lift or deposit from your natural level. There is reason and experience behind this theory and I (most of the time) go along with it. A Level 1 or 2 who wants to be blond looks excellent with panels of Level 7-8-9 ASH blonds - but not so great with Level 10-11 Blond.…. { I recently did a girls hair like this > am mad at myself for not taking photos. One of the biggest mistakes of my career is not documenting enough of it, I have photos, but of some of the most spectacular, I don’t. I’ve always thought, “I’ll do this again” then never do because the style & trends change grrr!}
If you are going for a Medium blond rather than a light blond you would leave more underlying pigment, usually undertones of GOLD. Light blonds need an undertone of YELLOW and very light blonds need PALE YELLOW.
Be sure to determine what level of blond you want to become -- with this tutorial we are going the lightest-- Level 12 Gwen Stefani – Frozen Butter (palest yellow) is the name of the game.

# 3 Hair Health: hair needs to be in pretty good condition for this procedure to be taken on. If the hair is in bad condition prior to…it will be destroyed after- this is not the procedure for you. Please work on your hairs condition before taking this up. Go through the Deep Slumber Protocol, I’ve never found any deep conditioner better than my THRIVEN – you leave it in overnight 2 nights a week. (6OZ Jar: $40.00) Killerstrands@gmail.com Your hair will improve in 1 month.

#4 Natural Level: More heavily pigmented hair takes longer to lighten; I find almost all Levels of hair need to bleached twice except possibly Level 8 and up…all the other factors matter as well.

#5 Gray Hair: Surprising to many, gray hair lightens fairly easily…gray hair is hair with no pigment so lightening it to the blond level is easy.

#6 Texture: Coarse hair takes longer to lighten than fine hair, which also means that fine hair needs to be watched closely so as not to leave the product on for too long.

#7 Porosity: Very porous hair lightens more easily than non porous hair. Porosity = the ability of hair to absorb & retain moisture – determined by how compact together the cuticle layers are (condition) – described as resistant/normal or over porous.

#8 Artificial Pigment:
having old color or tint of any kind will alter the timing and application of any bleaching procedure. The area where the artificial pigment is will have to be reapplied many times. This is what can become tricky and one should proceed with caution. My only advice: every single head of hair is different, so every head of hair needs its own set of rules….keep your eye on the hair as the bleach is working…to make sure things are going OK. If Black pigment is in the hair, VANISH (color remover) needs to be used first.
There are no set rules for this instance except artificial pigment is harder to lift than natural
pigment.




 

Mixing “On-The-Scalp” Cream Oil Bleach

 Comment about Oil Bleach Kit.... April 2,2015......by Amanda ....Killerstrands Group




 Mixing the bleach to the proper consistency has a lot to do with how good your application will be and how efficient the lightening will be.
  • Measure all the ingredients carefully and read and re-read the instructions, most think it sounds backwards I’m told, and the way I have you mix it, is important.
  • A lot of things depend on how long the hair is, whether there is artificial pigment etc.but determine if you will be making one application or 2. If you are beginning to turn long hair platinum you will want to make 1 gigantic batch (using both applications) and apply that to the lengths of the hair all the way up to 1 inch from the scalp. Leave that 1 inch from the head without lightener until the very end. If you have Level's 2-4 virgin hair, you will want to apply lightener to the lengths 2 or 3 times without hitting the BASE. Then at the very end apply lightener to the base(roots)..........why?.......the heat from the head makes the lightener 1 inch from the head lighten 3 X times as fast as the lengths.....the goal is to have evenly lightened hair - if you remember that as the # 1 important goal. You will have happy - healthy shiny hair at all times !

    . Remember almost everyone will think they should use  higher than 20 Volume on the base (Scalp) – some scalps are so sensitive they need 10 Volume to protect them. There is absolutely NO reason your scalp or head should hurt in this process. Any Hair Stylist that has ever done that to you – needs to go back to school !

     If you do have Level 2-4 Virgin hair that you are beginning with please request at least 1 of the Kits you purchase for a swap out of the Violet Developer to 40 Volume. I believe its OK if your hair is that dark naturally to apply 40 Volume Violet developer using the cream oil lightener base and Gleam oil addition to the mixture..........never forget those items!




  • I suppose for many Readers you might like to use an applicator bottle,  I want to encourage you to please please practice with a Tint Brush and Tint Bowl there is a reason the pros use it...........why? The pressure from spreading the product on with a brush helps the color come out even....Remember we are trying to become Crib Colorists which means you are as good as a pro only you do it at home !




** After mixing bleach, be sure to have hair parted into 4 equal sections as in all hair color applications, as you see Molly's hair is here.


** Start application where hair is the darkest – almost always in the back.* Make 1/8 inch subsections, applying to the hair 1 inch away from the scalp and to the ends (depending on porosity of course). Applying to top and bottom combing through to be sure the bleach has saturated the section as evenly as possible – moving very quickly. Up one section…then up the next

Then just continuing to move down one section at a time applying the color & combing it thru.......... 

When someone apply's hair color TO your head you go from the bottom, to the top .........when you are applying it to yourself you will work in reverse with a wall mounted rear-view mirrors. 
We used to carry Jerdon's






June 16, 2008

DEMO of "How to Apply a "Patch Test" for Hair Color: Necessity or Waste?





Sloppy technique = Sloppy Hair

I would like you all to learn the proper - British- Boot Camp standards that I learned...it made me a better Hair Stylist/Colorist - as it will you.


Please attempt one of these, for practice and for knowledge....jot down your results and post in the GROUP.


PATCH TEST : This test is to determine, if you are allergic to the hair color you are about to use. Some may think it a waste....some may be very greatful for it. 

If you have allergies and/or sensitivities...you may want to run this test before applying every new haIR COLOR YOU TRY,  you only need a tiny bit and it only takes overnight.

When working with hair color, you will have to determine whether you have any allergies or sensitivities to the mixture. Please don’t blow this off, I know it takes an extra day…but there is a reason we do it. In the Salon I had every single person sign a questionnaire before I touched their hair, I bet 90% of you never filled out a questionnaire. I believe in rules, regulations and sensitivities…I have them. Within my questionnaire I gave them the opportunity to take the patch test, if they didn’t want to they had to sign a release. I also asked them if they were allergic to pollen, any foods or any drugs, if they answered yes and listed a row of them . . . we ran the test anyway. People are allergic to hair color, just like there are people allergic to the sun and grass, things we cannot get rid of. I did not get into this business to inflict any type of pain, and that CAN happen if precautions are not taken, its even a lot easier for you Crib Colorists to perform this and wait one day. We are starting a new hobby here – for it to fly we need to follow the pro’s rules.


Performing a PATCH Test


1. Select test area, behind the ear or on the inside of the elbow are good choices.

2. Using a mild soap, cleanse and dry an area about the size of a quarter

3. Mix a small amount of product according to the manufacturers directions

4. Apply to the test area with a sterile cotton swab

5. Leave undisturbed for 24 hours

6. Examine the test area. If there are no signs of redness or irritation you can proceed with the color service.






A negative skin test will show no sign of inflammation and indicates the color may be safely applied.


A positive result will show redness and a slight rash or welt – A positive result will show redness and slight rash or welt. If you have these symptoms, under no circumstances should you use the product that you tested. Do not panic though, there are many lines of hair color … with many different chemical bases for you to choose from.

So many hair colors these days have no ammonia (we carry 2 - Schwartzkopf's IGORA ROYAL & ESSENSITY line of hair color are both ammoni-free ), organic and so gentle it amazes me!


If you have sensitivities to foods, or plants, or anything at all this test should be run. I used to ask that question in my questionaire , therefore putting the decision in the clients head as to whether they wanted to take it or not.

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