Showing posts with label how to color hair. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how to color hair. Show all posts
April 29, 2015

Rose-Gold Blond Formula's + Tricks + Upkeep

I have had a number of requests for formula's and tricks to achieving the Rose-gold Blond look


 Normally I would tell you to go to a qualified Colorist but this isn't really that tough. If the
 Killerstrands Angel-Rose-Angel BURST Conditioner
directions confuse you - head for the Colorist...but I think if read and re-read my instructions you will find it truly is pretty simple. Before I write on a topic... I will ask my staff if they understand the Post, before I teach it to you...to see how they take it. Its funny but all of them aren't into doing their hair AT ALL! But, they understood this so I am going to give you the education. I know lots of you who would probably love to work here.


Remember I learned hair color when I was old, my first career was as a Stunt.woman in Hollywood..........don't ask me why I made the transition......it was not my choice - believe me. Lets just say I had one angry ex-husband who was a big-shot movie director and he was not happy when I informed him I no longer wanted to be married to a person who chose his his drug/alcohol use above his family . That didn't hit his male ego button very well so he turned on me....... blackballed me in the industry......he told everyone that if they hired me, they would never work for him again. He controlled a lot in that world. But anyway that's enough about that...

What I want you to learn is that if I can learn all of this at an older age... every single one of you can. I am trying to empower everyone of you with the knowledge and instructions on either coloring your hair yourself.............or doing touch-ups for when you can't get in to see your Colorist. There are many of you who live in remote areas and have ZERO access to a decent colorist and are forced to learn to do your own hair. There are many that just can...not or don't want to pay hundreds of dollars every month to do hair you can now learn to do on the Internet.
So when I say read and re-read............the instructions I give, if you don't understand it the first time I say it - then re-read it and then re-read it the next day.......... I say that because that is how I learned. This all was so foreign to me, but just doing some extra reading truly helped me learn a lot of concepts that were completely foreign to anything I had ever done in my life!

So, the trick to becoming rose-blond, is really much easier than one would think. That is because what you do is begin with blonde hair and then put a rose-blond toner over the hair. You can also put some darker rose-gold pieces in the hair, but for the sake of this post lets just go with 2 formula's for achieving rose gold hair and the use of BOOST & BURST for both upkeep and creating the look. You can create Katy Perry's look at home by starting with blond hair and we have been going over the many zillions of ways there are to achieve blonde hair in the posts over the last couple of weeks.  Then applying BURST in Angel-Rose-Angel on just the first 3 inches of the hair in kind of an up & down method... So that is easy and should be solved.

Then you can begin with Blond hair and it can be a Level 8 like Sienna is here


The following look can be achieved by 2 methods of products we carry
You can apply Schwarzkopf in the Candy Pink Pastel 9.5-89 






Plus 6, 10 or 13Volume 
I would suggest using 6Volume the first time.
Just divide hair in Quarters, apply in tiny sections of the hair
it should like this..... 



Now is you were to want a look like this, you would just foil some pieces or ribbons around previously lightened hair :



http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/collections/professional-hair-color/products/wella-color-touch-demi-permanent-color
PHOTO - 4A  -  ROSE  HIGHLIGHTS

This would be more difficult, for 1.) you need to begin with Level 11 or 12 hair....Level 12 is what she has. Then this is more "ROSE".............than Pink so you would need to create my secret formula.

Made from Color Touch  - - KC's Dark ROSE Formula
Purchase
9/16 

6/45 
+   
4-8 ounces of 13Volume Developer

Now the trick to mixing this is this.............YOU CANNOT JUST MIX THE 2 COLORS ! !  
 One must  only use the following formula using the above colors. If you don't do it like this you end up with a mess, but it is NOT THAT HARD!
#1.) Squeeze 1 ounce of 9/16 into bowl.........
#2.) Squeeze 2 grams of the 6/45 color coming out the tube into the bowl. Mix those 2 items together first with a knife. 
#3.) Pour 2 ounces of 13Volume Developer into the bowl and MIX WELL. 
#4.) Now just apply all over evenly and quickly 




















  • outline the section first, that you begin with, with the hair color you are using
  • the section you start with should be the section in the back or where you want the color to be the darkest.
  • now just section and part your way up the hair applying the color this formula will look EXACTLY like the ends in Kate Hudson's hair below..... OR put the darker highlights like in the photo 4-A , above...

 


http://killerstrands.myshopify.com/collections/professional-hair-color/products/wella-color-touch-demi-permanent-color
DARKER  ROSE  ENDS



Remember BOOST & BURST will keep your ROSE-BLOND Hair all Rosy & Easy. Shampoo leave that in a couple minutes then decide how much color you want from BURST they both have loads of pigment in them.............. so knock yourself out.

Any Questions?


March 13, 2013

Hair SOS - Mane Emergency - Watch Out For Boxed Hair Color

Vidal Sassoon Box Color is Same Ole Crap-In-A-Box
I'm tired of sugar coating the word for Boxed hair color - all boxed hair color is Bull Shit.
I am just horrified that a new boxed hair color has been rolled out. First of all . Leave it up to Proctor Gamble to wait til the master is dead so he couldn't SUE their ass. 
Because he surely would. 


Lately there has been a barrage of Vidal Sassoon commercials for hair color and I'm sure they are using the death of the man as a way to bring attention to their product, it hasn't even been one full year. Such poor taste Proctor and Gamble, such poor taste. The story that was told in school was the following: The words Vidal Sassoon were sold 2 ways back in the late 80's (when people thought you retired). #1) was sold as a package of the Salons and Academy's to this couple in London.....Annie Hartley and Tim Hartman, they acquired the name Vidal Sassoon and #2) he also sold his name to Proctor and Gamble for hair products, something that makes ZERO SENSE in today's world, because Proctor & Gamble makes the cheapest, lousiest products in the market...I don't know how they get it sooo wrong....I even tried them way back when I was in school because they encouraged it.
Apparently Mr. Sassoon tried for years to get out of his deal with selling his name to Proctor and Gamble.  No one has higher standards than Vidal Sassoon Academy.... as did the man. So the lousy products that have been turned out by Proctor and Gamble, just never met the standards that Mr. Sassoon signed up for, he tried and it was not reversible. My hypothesis is that there was a deal for hair color when he passed. Good for him  - -  but bad for us.

I just want everyone to know that boxed hair color is boxed hair color.
I stand by my initial analysis of it....there is no way that product can work. 
Think about this...........
   1 brunette
   1 redhead 
   1 blonde &
   1 black haired person walk into the Grocery store or Target or Walmart , to purchase 1 box of color. Lets Say Level 8 Blond like this 

Which one of those 4 people will end up with the correct color?



The answer..............only 1 out of 4 people will turn up with a sort of close color  - everyone else will have a disaster on their hands. Even that one person has to be so very careful about their hair color, it is just NEVER EVER choose a box and use..............ever!.



No one knows that, do they? They put a little directions on the box, but no one reads them. So the hair ends up destroyed.


Please do some reading and learn how to color the hair. This Blog covers it all, we have so many successful Crib Colorists!
 
KC
Killer Chemist




February 18, 2013

The Color of Honey

The Science of the "Law of Color" and How To Color The Hair
Stylists have trouble learning the ''Law of Color'' Concepts. So, I never want you to be hard on yourself. They spend a full year deeply concentrating on these concepts and many times end up with a complete blank stare on their face when finished, so please don't think you should get it right away either ! I am going to be going in order for easier learning the next short while and will let you know when I have stopped.

In my descriptions of how hair color works, some hair color will be tagged (+ color) and it will only add color .... say a Level 3 or level 4 color.....those colors are (+ color) only colors. There are colors that are "lifting color" or will actually bring existing color out of the hair, so those colors will be called (-color)...then there are colors that are (+ & - COLOR).   When you apply color to the hair, you are adding (+ color) color...............so color + color = MORE color, so the hair has more pigment.

 If the color used is addition only, the hair will often but not always be darker. Deposit (+ only) tints are often used as "TONERS" which is described as:changing the tonal value of the hair without changing the lightness or darkness of the actual color of the hair. This is the least complicated method of tinting the hair. Any time the hair is lightened, no matter how little, you are subtracting pigment or (- COLOR). When subtracting color from the hair, one sees a imbalance of natural pigments, as you are altering nature. 

Single-process hair color uses both (-)subtraction to remove pigment &(+)addition to + add artificial pigment 

Now remember when we just studied the primaries. Primary hair colors are Red - Yellow  & Blue.


Remember when the 3 primaries are mixed in exact equal amounts....what color do we get? 
We get black/gray. 
Uneven amounts of the primaries = brown (shades of). That is why knowing the color wheel is important, because every person's hair is derived from the color brown. Black is just a dark-dark brown......and blonde is simply a super super light brown. All colors of hair are derived from the main color brown.

If there is more yellow than red or blue, the brown will be light, even beige. If there is more red than the other two primaries, the brown will be warm brown. And if there is more blue than yellow or red, the brown will be dark and cooler looking.

All virgin hair is a shade of brown: it contains all 3 primaries...which is why understanding the LAW of COLOR is so important to the end result in hair coloring 
                        DURP 
                        Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment

So as you begin to lighten color at any level (you are not actually dealing with brown, you are dealing with the DURP - which is usually red,orange, gold, or yellow. 

Every single one of you complains about the "warmth"  when you begin to lighten the hair. BLUE is the first color to leave the hair in the lightening process, which leaves Red & Yellow to the eye....100% complete warmth and unappealing to the eye. Although I suspect if things were different and the warmth left the hair first, then to the human eye "warmth" would be the appealing tonal category. That just rings true to the "we always want, what we cannot have ... verbiage . Don't you think?


** Balanced hair coloring comes when all 3 primaries are present. When hair undergoes lightening (pigment is subtracted), even slightly, there will be an imbalance of the primaries.

** Color companies always have separate tonal series, with a GOLD, RED, BLUE/VIOLET, GREEN, Natural.
 

a

a