January 1, 2013

Re-touch - ReTouch Who Needs A Re-touch ? Part 1

 Lots Of Killerstranders do, I know that much !

Re-touch of a Bleach & Tone. From a prior Post that was kind of lost/hidden and not seen from October of 2008. Doesn't matter the information is superb. You see I don't realize what you all struggle with until you speak up. Even if I act surprised when you say it, pay no attention to that. I welcome your questions and comments.

 gwen94 Been a while since I've tackled a DEMO, thought it was about time, again. Lately I've had a number of my trusty followers purchase the products and get ready for their very first at home re-touch, turning them into a CRIB COLORIST by my rules of engagement!  Congratulations I say to you all and my gift and vote of confidence is this DEMO shot and written mainly for you. 
Some of this is a repeat, but what I have decided this time is to break it down much more slowly, transparently and clearly. I know I have a tendency to skip over parts that I think everyone probably already knows - mistakenly . Which is stupid on my part, because why would "ANY" of this be something you already know - - many of you are coming off of years of going to a Hair Salon in which you sat back, grabbed a magazine and started up with the latest trials & tribulations of your life to your trusted Stylist. Its funny, that's one of the things I miss the most . . . I never got many of the stories I knew about my hundreds of clients finished or completed or at least headed in the right direction. I'm sure they are all just fine!
Today DSCF1891we have Trixie . . . how about this sweetheart, who knew they made mannequins WITH roots! I laughed my ass off when I saw her, yet she actually filled the need most perfectly.  I know of at least a dozen of you that will be tackling this exact project in the coming weeks so I hope this helps.
She has a lot longer root than I would have liked, doing roots this length are easy, as you have so much root to work with. The tricky part is when you have a measly 1/2" or 3/4", you need to be so careful of the overlapping part. (overlapping meaning overlapping the bleach/ blond tint onto the already blond part of the hair - which can cause breakage). Don't worry about this now, I will go into detail about all of these topics this time.
Here are 6 photos of Trixie from every angle, if you can believe I gave her a 4 minute haircut because I just could not stand the way she showed up at my door, that should get a laugh out of you. Once the color is complete, we will see what we can do with the hair cut for a permanent look, how about a POLL ? ? ? At the comments section below why don't we have a little vote for what hair cut you think she should have?
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DSCF1896 DSCF1895
How about my make-up job? Swift huh? Like I said, you should have seen, "what showed up" !! Lots of color is better than Peter Pan and Twinkleberry puff colors, trust me!
Now that you have met and seen the project . . . what would be you very first step . . . all the time imagining this is your OWN hair and you are applying this technique to yourself, that's how these DEMO's work.
Sectioning, Parting and Preparation
Get the supplies out thsassoonat you will need to do the SECTIONING and PARTING of your hair. What I really want to impress upon you is how important the sectioning and parting is. Maybe If I relay a story about how they crammed it into our heads at Vidal Sassoon Academy a way back when the teachers were grand, the art was still alive, and at unbelievable levels it will make you see more clearly what I mean.  Every week for the first 12 weeks of the Academy - - we had what was called "State Board Training" . . . we all hated it. It was a process of memorizing rules and regulations that we would NEVER put to use in our actual career and we all knew it, but you had to pass the test or the rest of what we learned would go right out the window. To keep us from going out of our minds . . they would break up the day with sectioning and parting - -  for 12 weeks mind you!  A couple hours of each day our break from reading boring - pointless - out-of-date Rules, was to grab our mannequin heads or work on each other and practice our parting and sectioning. Seems so silly to me now, although in trying to teach the process to you, I now see the importance of it all.
The complaint I get from many of you is the issue of keeping the hair straight and not getting it all mixed up within itself. Clips over tint brush thru combs on top of the bowl of color . . .well you get the picture.
The Answer . . .as it is to many questions of confusion  . . . is ORGANIZATION.  Plain and simple organization and steps. So for Step 1 to the madness called Hair color we shall call it section, parting and Preparation. Today we are getting prepared and Sectioning the Quads. and that's it! Slowly but surely we will get through this so that you will all have the Sassoon Mind set. Repetition is at the base of any great hair colorist - doing things over and over  will have you tuned into what to do automatically. It worked for me and if it works for the best and most famous school in The country, then it will work for you. DO NOT CUT CORNERS - if you do that, it will be your first downfall. 
This is what you need to get out to prepare to do the initial sectioning and parting and prep. Clips - invest in strong ones, they last 2 years and are worth it, they MUST be plastic -metal reacts with bleach in a bad way. Couple cutting combs, couple tail combs and GLEAM. Never color hair with out GLEAM, Argan Oil is even better, but I won't even use it until the price comes down a bit. I found the GLEAM works almost exactly the same.
I always need 8 clips and 4 combs, its just the standard prep tools I grab for - no matter what. DSCF1897As you can hopefully see the combs have different widths and teeth to help with the density of the hair.. if you have super coarse hair you may need the larger combs. I'm battling with some pretty freaky hair hair so this won't be an easy job for me, all the much better to show you the process with. Mannequins hair does not lay down flat like a real persons, among many other challenges, one would never think of!  The more organized you are at the beginning the easier the entire process will go for you. I want you to enjoy coloring your hair, so you look forward to doing it next time, not the other way around.
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So the sectioning begins with getting your head into QUADRANTS. See the straight part from nose to nape. Then the straight part from ear to ear. Practice this parting not once or twice . . . practice getting it exactly EVEN 15 times! Yep its that important!
The head needs to be divided into 4 EQUAL SQUARES. If you do this and treat each as its own individual section, it will make your life easier AND ( the key to this is ) > it will make you faster in applying the color - the goal for most of you.DSCF1902 DSCF1908
DSCF1906 Just different views of the whole "quadrant" idea I'd like to plaster into your brain. See how the whole head is divided into 1/4'ths. The reason for this ? ? ?  So you treat every quadrant as its own individual section, that you will be 'starting' and 'finishing' before going onto the next section.   You are to focus on that 1 section only. Nothing else.  It gives you a beginning -- middle -- and end to your project . .  something nice, when you feel like you don't know what you are doing. Right? Always starting at the bottom of each section FIRST - - working DSCF1907upward going to the top of that section and then completing it. 
Again notice the quadrants pointed out with the TAIL COMBS. Keep your hair in these quadrants at all times during the coloring process.

Next is the GLEAM, wonderful - glorious - GLEAM. What a Godsend this has been for me and my clients. . . as it will also be for you.
It depends on the amount of hair you have, but not a whole lot is needed

Just a few squirts if you got the smaller bottle and 2 eyedropper fulls if you got the larger bottle is plenty. The idea is to get the oil everywhere that you plan on applying any color/bleach/lightener at all. Do not worry about putting it everywhere ( if you feel like it) I was just trying to save you a bit of money, I actually put it on the entire head of hair. Its done some wonderful repairing for dry and damaged hair clients of mine. You will see.
  DSCF1917So there you have it, the entire head is gleamed up and read to have color applied. This one back section is all GLEAMED up and ready to go. You will want to begin applying the color  in the back 2 sections as they are the more resistant sections of the hair and are the most stubborn so we want the color on them the longest. Its like God planned it that way, so he gives us the time to get the color on the front sections without destroying the back sections. .

 .  Truly it does work that way! Its more than OK for the color to be on the back 2 sections for 20 minutes longer ( although we don't really 'think' like it, that way) - because of its resistance . . . until we can get to the front two sections and apply that color as fast as possible to those sections. So it all comes out "cooked" properly and done at the same time. 
Just like a great Thanksgiving dinner.
The next POST will be mixing the bleach and applying one section ONLY -- very slowly and just like this post so hopefully you will see in detail the proper manner in which to successfully color your hair. This may also be applied to the exact same process if you are tinting your hair brown or red or whatever color. This is a color RE-Touch and works for ALL COLORS!


 Killer Chemist


6 comments on "Re-touch - ReTouch Who Needs A Re-touch ? Part 1"
  1. I think Trixie should get a pixie--cut that is =D.

  2. A.G.o.a.b.:

    TOUCHE, my dear . . . TOUCHE!

    Its a great answer, but I'm not too sure how it would lay, I'm not too sure how these buggers are made - - but more than willing to consider it...I like to get as much use out of these little girls as i can . . before they are dust.

  3. I say get as many cuts out of it as you can. Maybe a long a-line graduated bob?

  4. Thankyou so much for going into more detail with this!

    Forgive me, I've looked but I can't find any info on your Gleam. I didn't think you could apply anything before bleach? If someone could post a link to clue me up this would be amazing.

  5. Found info on Gleam, and once again saying apply before bleach, but it's still completely new to me.

  6. I'm buying Gleam from KC before my next color...every time I see it in action and hear from the users in the group, it is SO positive!

    I vote for the longest possible cut. After that, in the next month or so, maybe Trixie gets "reworked" to a new technique (perhaps rope, or another?)... she can get a more Sassoon like 70s retro bob to coordinate with the technique? I figure she's got to be happy with better looking hair - let's max out her re-use with a couple different haircuts over time... Just IMHO....


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